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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Was able to attend a local roll race event. Here are a couple of passes of my ls7 280z!!! Enjoy!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkqF5j8-Kjs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMkUFN4t0ms
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Hey all! I am new to these forums, also new to Datsuns!! I am 20 years old, currently going to college and working two jobs, and working on my new baby in the meantime! About two months ago I bought a 1975 280z. It came from South Carolina, so I had to get it brought all the way up to Connecticut for me. I searched all around for a Z for about two months before that but had no luck finding any car that wasn't overrun by rust. The northeast is terrible! Alas, I found my car in South Carolina and just had to have it. It has some dents and some paint chips, a rusty passenger frame rail, and a damn sexy body! It ran pretty crappy when I first got it back but I was not too worried because I knew one of the first steps would be to engine swap! The car sat in the shop for the past month, took it out a couple times, replaced the headlights (previous owner gave me lots of spare parts ), but mostly did LOTS research on engines to swap into my new baby. I decided to swap in an rb20det. It seems like it fits my minor power goals, sounds pretty sick, and seems fairly within my mechanical expertise, with lots of help from my family . Yesterday, we started disconnecting and unscrewing, and draining, and more disconnecting, getting ready to pull the engine and doing as much as I could before I had to get to work. Today we are gonna pull the engine and tranny. After it's out, the frame rail is being replaced, just bought a replacement from BAD DOGS this morning, hoping to get it by the weekend! Any undercarriage rust is getting tended to along with that god-awful undercoating that seems to overtake the entirety of the underneath of my car. It is gonna get done up real nice within the next month, while I save a little more to purchase the actual rb20det engine. I already have researched and lined up the rear sump oil pan, walbro fuel pump, throttle cable, intercooler, downpipe that I have planned to purchase. Aftermarket exhaust manifold, and intake manifold will be replaced next summer, along with a turbo upgrade. but not worrying about that yet. I just wanna get this engine in and running! Now, I do have some questions regarding this engine swap maybe some of you all could help me with. Do you have any radiator suggestions? Any body have any good recommendations as to where to purchase the RB? Right now I am vigorously searching through eBay. Car is an automatic right now, swapping it to manual with the new RB, any pedal sets or advice at all that you recommend! ANY ADVICE OR INFO YOU WOULD JUST LIKE TO SHARE? Next summer, I am planning to do the bodywork, get some wide body fenders on my baby, fender mirrors, thick tires, a rear spoiler, racing seats, full harness, upgraded interior, gauges, dash and get a good paint job! This summer, my goal is to successfully swap the engine, and get my baby running nice and good. It is gonna be a busy summer! Along with my Datsun project, in my family's shop, we are in the finishing stages of a Factory Five 818C kit car, which looks SICK. It's running an ej207 engine, weighs just about 2100 pounds right now and is pulling about 400hp without a tune yet! It is scary fast but a lot of fun! We have a 69' camaro drag car always in and out of the shop, holding the 632 outlaw world speed records right now, and another 2002 camaro drag car getting finished up. My family is very excited to help me through this project and hopefully I can expand my mechanical mind through my Datsun project! I can't wait to keep you guys updated!! I post all the pictures and updates on an instagram page, specifically for my datsun. You can all checkout the progress and updates through there if you're interested! https://www.instagram.com/dirty_ddatsun/ Thanks for reading!! -Julia
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Located in Nashville, TN. Partially parting out my car to make it a weekend/SCCA car. Have pictures of the parts and can provide to you on request in PM. Vehicle was originally a California car and have tried to clean up most parts that had surface rust with Evapo-rust. Prices do not include shipping, which will tabulated and provided to you before completing transaction. Will use Paypal or Venmo, or local pick up. Expand the attached photo for available parts and prices.
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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So I bought this car by mistake. I honestly thought I wouldn't win the ebay auction when I made my offer...stupid me. Anyway, I am looking to get rid of it, all out, or part it out. What are your opinions? I already have a 1975 280Z project going on and this is just too much for me to tackle. It came with four carbs total, has two rear coilover setups, an aftermarket gas tank, some janky custom metal work (no offense if one of you originally owned it) and some chassis reinforcement that I actually like. Alloy wheels Not sure if the diff is original, but probably is. Comes with another R200 with a "limited slip device" installed inside it. Also, something weird is going on in the back. There were some racing lights installed on cards, which are in my garage. There also looks to have been a wing at some point. The lock mechanism needs replacing and the driver door linkage needs fixing. You have to hold the lock UP to open it...won't open from the outside. Here is the link to my dropbox with all the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e6j0h829xuizkxu/AAA2yzieFc72zxkFWHuTEcITa?dl=0 I've attached 4
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I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts
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This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366 -
hi....need front plastic panel for this type sunroof....905-857-6345 phone or text - rob showcars-bodyparts.com
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Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler ,
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Hey guys like the title says I am new here , my name is wayde been planning this swap for 5 years now, and actively workin on it for just over a year now. I posted in the members projects section under s30 , including a list of everything that's added to the engine aftermarket wise, don't think I mentioned rear sump conversion but there is a picture. please let me know what you think , happy to answer any questions and hoping to get feedback on what I could or should do next, because a project is never done
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Looking for some advice before I dive head first into the engine bay. It is a 1977 280z pretty stock minus headers So I had accidentally left my head lights on. So, of course, my battery died. I tried to jump start the car and it cranked and smelled of gas but wouldn't turn over. I figured I might have flooded the engine for trying to much so I let the car sit for about 24 hours. I brought a new battery (tested and all so I know it works) and it was the same problem. The engine cranks and I smell gas but it won't actually turn over. The ignition coil has spark. The distributor has spark. But it just won't turn over. Any ideas of what to check? Also I should add the for about a week and a half before this happened my car has been running a bit rough. It just started out of nowhere. The engine has a bit more shake to it and there seems to be a good loss of power. I kind of suspected the water temp sensor since I had a problem with it in the past. I replaced it's plug but not the sensor itself. And if I ever touched it while the car was running it would cause a rough idle. Anyways if anyone can give me some advice it would be much appreciated. I'd just like to add that I'm a young car enthusiast. I know my way around a wrench (I've changed the intake and exhaust manifold myself and cleaned up some wiring) but I'm far from an expert. And I know very little about the science of electricity.
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Hello Everyone, recently I have become an owner of running 1977 Datsun 280Z. I have always loved them and wanted to get hands on one of them, I have gotten my hands on this 280Z 2+2 GHLS 4 SPD. I am in love with the car, but it does have its flaws. I would like to sincerely ask the HybridZ community for any and all the help you all can provide on bringing my car to at its best. The known issues so far are as follows: All the lights work other than the front Headlights, and Hazard button does not work. Passenger door does not close fully and it seems does not latch on to the hook. Water on the floor of the car from rain seems to be getting in from the doors. Shift boot is nonexistent and can see the ground from the shift lever. (hence the fumes from busted exhaust are almost at hazardous level while driving the car) Atlast the Dreaded Rust is certainly present but it is not severe at as far as I can tell. I am very excited to join the community and would like to humbly ask for all of your help to keep this beautiful car alive and well. Thanks
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Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already had the SR20DET swap which is a little rough round the edges, but in the PO defence, he had 28 day warranty on the engine so had to get it into the car as soon as he could to make sure it checked out OK. This wasn't long after he had it all up and running. I drove home that night with a huge smile on my face knowing I would be a Z car owner!! My dream car was going to be mine. So the day came to swap the cars, here is an image of the 2 cars together..
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Hey y'all, I need some clarification. From what I've read in various forums and conversations & a few google searches. Datsun utilized 2 or 3 versions of the 5 speed for the 280z. Again, from what I've read. It seems as though the later 80-83 version is the more desirable due to it being a close ratio gearbox compared to the earlier versions. And from what I can tell, it doesn't seem as though there is any identification numbers stamped on the transmission. I did read that if the 5 speed has one hanger at the tail end then it's the more desirable version compared to the earlier version which would have two hangers/forks? There was a 4204C label stamped on it, not that this probably helps. If anyone can tell me which version of the 5 Speed I bought, I'd appreciate it. Did anything that I mentioned above seem to be completely wrong? Thank you in advance!
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Hey everyone, this build will document my tear down and rebuild of a 1977 280z. This is my first restoration project and as such, I plan to take this slowly and methodically so I can remember how to build it back up! My goals for this build: Complete teardown, soda/abrasive blast entire body Fix any rust and dents Paint - Not sure what color yet, but factory color is blue. I like the blue color and might think about a white racing stripe, but again, I am not 100% on the color scheme yet. Install a 5.3 LS (LM7) engine and t56 6-speed (eventual power goal is 350-400 hp) Install a R200 LSD (final gear ratio TBD). The car has a R180 open diff most likely, I will confirm as I get to removing the suspension. Refinish the interior - Most the plastic is in terrible condition, everything is very brittle and the center console and dash are cracked pretty badly. My goal is a light tan leather interior with some modern updates (power windows, locks, seat heaters, new head unit, racing wheel). The interior is white/tan currently and I like the white with blue combo so that is in the running. I feel I am about 1-2 years, at least, away from having to decide on this. Complete everything myself so I can learn about each and every aspect of this process. I might consider farming out engine rebuild because I really don't want to mess that up, but my initial plan would be just to use stock internals on the engine, and rebuild the engine after the car is up and running for a while. Have Fun! Don't get too frustrated or more importantly take a break when stuck. My next post is going to detail the current state of the car. I welcome all input, advice, and suggestions!
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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Went to the Dyno today expecting to do 5 pulls and get a horsepower number. I am planning a significant amount of upgrades soon so I wanted a baseline. This place lets you run the car yourself on the dyno. I had never done something like this before, so my first run I stopped at 5500 RPM. The second run I went all the way to 6200 RPM. Better numbers, but we thought there was an air leak. Upon closer inspection, we saw coolant going everywhere! Apparently a weird old T-fitting on coolant lines had failed. It killed my dyno session. Luckily, the shop let me replace the T-fitting there myself using their equipment and I was able to head home. But not without this interesting dyno chart! This is a 99% stock L28ET. Swapped by previous owner around 2004. The only thing not stock is that the air intake is moved in front of the radiator and there is an oil cooler. Dyno Chart Peak Power: 148.86 hp at ~5700 RPM - MEGA POWER!!! Peak Torque: 161.37 ft/lbs at ~4400 RPM EDIT: Done with 1978 280z 5-speed transmission and rear diff in 3rd gear. I'm gonna be honest - I thought there was more power under there lol. But I'm not complaining! It certainly feels like it with how light this car is. But what the heck is with everything taking a dump @5k? Action Shots: Coolant Pouring!! The busted T-fitting - wtf is this thing? Fresh T-fitting Installed! My buddy who was nice enough to come by and help!
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Hey to all, I am testing the waters to see what my project's worth as is. I do not have the time to complete this project on my own. I'm willing to throw money at it to finish, but don't know where to take it. I live in Southwest Louisiana in case you're wondering. Refreshed engine - New gaskets, ARP bolts, OEM head gasket Sanded, primed, and bedlined engine bay and cleared with metal flake Borg-Warner 7670D Twin Scroll 1.05A/R About the car: Bought the car in New Mexico. Surface rust beneath the fenders but can be sanded out. No rust on floor boards up front. Surface rust near the back of the seat mounts but nothing serious. I the frame rails need to be repaired as there is rust damage there. No rust around drip rails, or in spare boot. No rust on or around hatch. Illumina adjustable springs and eibach springs bought for front and back. Only back has been installed, along with poly bushings. Carbon Fiber rear spolier and front splitter 5-speed manual that came with the engine Bought but not installed: New weather strip kit for whole car Eibach lowering springs (front) and tokico illumina adjustable (front) Poly bushings for front suspension I have a spare R-200 that comes along with it, but it's not worth much as I thought it was an LSD, which it isn't.
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I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one problem and end up with 10 new ones. 20180719_194207.mp4
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I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?
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I'm looking to refresh my suspension for my 75 280z. Looking for coilover and aftermarket control arms, preferable techno toy tuning but open to other brands. I'm also looking for an R200 to swap in for my stock R180. Let me know if you have anything that you are looking to get rid of. I do have so parts to trade if you are looking for Retro-spec fender flares, 240z calipers, 240z inspection lids. thanks -
I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
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I searched and searched and searched endlessly to build a spreadsheet of what to buy before ever taking on this journey from the car to what I wanted in the drivetrain for approximately 2.5 years. Searching craigslist/copart/ebay endlessly until I ran across a deal in my budget for a $2k running driving Z car. This led me to Virginia and I bought this daily driver 1976 280Z with 168k miles and in fairly good shape. My uncle and I drove it home 300+ miles with dry rotted 10 year old tires and 40 year old bushings with a slight hint of white smoke under hard acceleration on the interstate! Then the build began"¦ This was in March of 2012 just after grabbing my BS in Civil Engineering from UT Knoxville in Dec of 2011. I didn't start buying until December of 2012 and I haven't stopped since haha[/font][/size] -First I had to figure out the dreaded fluid in the passenger floorboard...leaky heater control valve so I wound up using a Bronco heater valve 74628 (Advance Auto Parts), 2-90* hoses, spare pieces of 5/8" hose and some hose clamps to fix that right up. PITA to get to with stock heater core/ac junk in the way BTW. Future plans are JCI/Vintage Air! -Engine spec'd out to be cheaper for an LS1 pullout if I could find the right deal but after considering the fuel mileage gains and ease of finding another engine for less if it went south I went 5.3 all the way. Plus boost always sounds better for the future! I have a spreadsheet list for that too! -2002 5.3 from a Chevy Avalanche with 80k that ran good (or at least that's what the guy at the junkyard said!) -Drive by cable was my goal from the start to get a better "feel" for the car so I bought a new throttle body and used ls1 intake, fuel rails, oil pan/pickup tube, etc... But I kept the truck spacing on the accessories (cheaper). -Transmission, besides the car, this was the worst to find and ultimately I went with the TR6060 over the T56. -2011 Camaro SS TR6060 with 2k miles ($1600 with free head stud kit valued around $225) -TR6060 has more stock holding power than a T56, a trans cooling system, and supposedly shifts smoother -But the downsides are that it is more rare (1st in a LS-Z), fixed yoke rear, taller gears, & uses a remote shifter From then on out I used the "Documemtation" of how to swap an LS1 T56 combo into a Z car and along side other builds on HybridZ to get to where I'm at. From Cooling to the RT Diff Mount to the Fuel Cell Setup I've researched and stalked tons of pages to get where I'm at and asked a handful of questions. My hats off to the site and all who put their 2 cents in because it would've been harder without it for sure. If I can help anybody else that has questions just shoot me a message about the swap. HybridZ and LS1Tech are your best friends during this swap so use them! The 5.3 had no real issues as in tapping the alternator hole (I was scared to do this at first) or cutoff the protruding section from the side of the block but it cuts like butter with a saw. 11/32" Drill Bit & 10mm x 1.5 Tap. I did mine inside the car, so out or in it doesn't matter. My goal is to daily drive it to work to keep miles off my truck and to replace my burning passion for buying a new Vette since I bought a new '12 Duramax instead. So power upgrades are essential to fulfill my daily need for speed. Future dream plans are a turbo, beefed up rear, and A/C. But I'm not sure if they can all be satisfied together so we'll see or I may just go and build another with a 5.3/auto/turbo drag setup and leave the stick with a/c for autox/daily driving. Engine: -5.3L 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 80k Miles -JCI Engine Mount Kit -MSD Plugs 32829 (Truck Coil Setup) -LS1 Stock Throttle Body -LS1 Intake 12560688 -LS1 Oil Pan 12558899 (Oil Filter: PF46E AC Delco / M1-107 Mobil) -LS1 3 Pin MAF Sensor -LS1 Stock 26 lb/hr Injectors -LS1 Alternator Bracket + ¾" spacers -Tap 10mm-1.5 (Hanson 8340) and 11/32" Drill Bit for Alt Hole in Block -Ribbed Pulley Advance Auto (P/N: 89015) -EGR Block off Plug Dorman 1-3/8" -Lokar LS1 Throttle Cable 36" -Custom Intake Throttle Cable Bracket -Custom Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket -4" to 3.5" Elbow to 3.5" Cone Air Filter -Dayco 5060548 Serpentine Belt for Alternator Only Setup -Truck Crank Pulley, Water Pump, Alternator, & Belt Tensioner -TunedbyFrost for 93 Octane (+25-28rwhp) & P1336 Code Removal -LS1 Drivers Side Clamshell Motor Mount (5.3 one won't work) -LS1 Dipstick 12551581 and Dipstick Tube 12551577 Transmission: -TR6060 2011 Camaro SS 2k Miles -Custom Transmission Rear Mount to Frame Rails -Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid (4 Quarts) 01512 -Perma-Cool Hose Barb Fittings 11/32" to 6AN (P/N: 15265) -2 "“ 6AN 90* Elbow Female to Male Swivel Fittings (Route Cooling Lines) -Custom Remote Shifter Mount and Linkage Rod (DO NOT BOLT TO TRANS TUNNEL) -Tremec Shifter TKO600 New Takeoff -Pro 5.0 Shifter Lever + 6 Speed Shifter Ball -GM 4l60e to 6AN Fittings (P/N: 12055) Choice Motorsports LLC (+ C Clips) -Stock Camaro SS Trans Mount -*Reverse Lockout is the same plug for LT1-T56/LS1-T56/LS3-TR6060 Clutch: -Monster Stage 2 "“ 12" LS1 Clutch Package with clutch alignment tool etc"¦ -Chromoly Billet 18lb Flywheel -Tilton 75-875U (7/8") -48" SS Braided 4AN Clutch Line (TOOOO Long "“ go 36") Tilton to TR6060 -Tick Performance TR6060 Clutch Speed Bleeder (Just Do It) -Welded on Male 4AN Steel Bung to Slave Cylinder Steel Line In Bellhousing -GM AC Delco TR6060 Pilot Bearing 12557583 (NOT a T56 Bearing) Driveline: -GTOPL-2 Aluminum Fixed Yoke Driveshaft Adapter (1350 Size U-Joint) -Slip Driveshaft (Oliver's Driveshaft in NC) 1350 to 1310 (23-9/16" Long) -R200 Neapco Adapter 2-2-899-1 with a 1310 Size U-Joint (M8-1.25x35mm) -RT Diff Mount from Techno Versions LLC and Modified Prothane Bushing -R200 3.54 (Stock) Open Differential (1 Tire Fire!) -Modern Motorsports 300ZX Turbo Half Shaft Adapters (New) -1986 300ZX Turbo (84-89) CV Axles (New) Flipped Cages to Shorten -75w90 Diff Fluid Lucas 2 Quarts (2.75 Pints = 1.375 Quarts to Full) -Differential Overflow Tank Exhaust: -JCI Headers Used (Non Ceramic Coated) #DAT-405 (Used) -Dual 2.5" to the Rear of Trans/Driveshaft then Y into 3" out the back -Borla Muffler 40359 Pro XS 3" In/Out (almost identical size to stock muffler) Suspension: -Full Removal of All Suspension Front/Rear and Sanded/Painted -Full Poly Bushing Master Kit (Red) 7.18102R Hyper Flex -Tokico 5 Way Adjustable Springs(Red)/Struts(White) Combo -10w-30 Fluid Refilled in Stock Strut Cartridges -Rear Spindle Pins/Bushings Replaced By Previous Owner Recently!!! -KYB Dust Boots (Plastic) with Bump Stop (Not Strapped on the Bottom) Wheels/Tires/Brakes: -XXR 531's in 16x8 with +0 Offset (Black/Polished Lip) -Falken 225/50/16 with no rubbing on stock/tokico suspension -Stock Brake Calipers Cleaned and Painted Hi-Temp Red -Speed Bleeders on All Corners -Hawk HP Plus HB169N.560 Front Pads -Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (All 4) -New Front Rotors -Rear Drums Already Had New Pads Cooling: -3 Row Aluminum Direct Fit Radiator with Drain Plug -"˜93 Taurus/Sable (91-95) 2 Speed 3.8L Fan with Connector Plug -Stock 5.3 Hose Modified to Fit Upper Hose -22478 Gates Hose from Oreilly's for Lower Radiator Hose -New Factory 186* Thermostat + Housing (Built Together) -¾" and 5/8" Heater Hose Lines and a ¾ to 5/8 adapter -JTR Hose Tee with 5/16" Steam Barb and Air Bleeder -Radiator Overflow Tank Gauges/Wiring: -ChevyThunder.com Stand Alone CPU/Harness for 5.3/LS1 w/ OBDII+CEL -Speedhut 4" GPS Speedo 160MPH w/ Blinkers+High Beam GR4-GPS-05T -Speedhut 4" 8k RPM Tach (See Group Buy on Speedhut"¦) GR4-TACH-02 -Glowshift 2-1/16" Oil/Water/Fuel Gauges 7 Color LED -JEG's Fuel Pressure Gauge (on fuel rail at firewall) -Oil Gauge Pressure Sending Unit behind intake on top of motor -Water Gauge Sending Unit on rear of passenger head at the battery -Autometer 2277 "“ 12m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Water Temp Sensor to LS Pass Head -Autometer 2268 "“ 16m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Oil Press Sending Unit Plug Top Block -Brass 1/8" NPT 45* Fitting for Oil Pressure Sending Unit Aftermarket -8 Guage Red Wire From Alternator to Battery -Stinger 4 Maxi Fuse Holder and Appropriate Fuses for Year Model Fuel System: -15 Gallon Universal Fuel Cell w/ Built-In Sending Unit (0-90 Ohm) -Fuel Cell Hanging Mounts and Padding + Other Mounts -Fuel Filler Neck Behind License Plate -Flip Down License Plate Bracket -Vented Gas Cap -Dual 10AN on the rear of the Cell (10 to 8 reducer) -8AN Pushlock Hose to the 100 Micron 8AN Fuel Filter -Walbro GSL392 (255) Fuel Pump -Corvette C5 FPR WIX 33737 -6AN WIX FPR Fittings 640860, 640850, 640940 (Russell Fittings) -6AN Pushlock Hose From Pump to FPR -6AN Pushlock Hose From FPR to Fuel Rails & FPR to Tank Return -Fuel Line Holder Clips with Rubber to Run Fuel Lines -LS1 Fuel Rail 3/8" Hardline to 6AN Push-On Fitting is RUS640850 -Stock LS1 Injectors 26 lb/hr -*6AN Size Fuel Line is good for up to 450HP -16' of 6AN and 3' of 8AN Push Lock Hose Recommended Tools: (besides the usual ones"¦I had to buy/borrow these) -Engine Hoist 1 Ton (Harbor Freight $105) -Load Leveler (Harbor Freight $20) -Torque Wrench (Mainly for Clutch Install) -Slide Hammer (Harbor Freight $15 for Stub Axle Removal) -Mig Welder (Lincoln Electric 140HD + Mig Gas $700 total) -Brake Line Wrench (Craftsman 10mm/12mm $10) -Spare Sets of Wrenches in Metric (Whole Car is 10/12/14mm"¦) Issues/Advice: -Crankshaft Relearn Procedure P1336 "“ It cannot be completed unless a factory setup is in place and I did not have this so I went ahead and had Frost tune that code out. The engine will try to run properly but won't let itself until this is done even though the crankshaft is mechanical. Other than that the engine ran flawlessly from ChevyThunder's harness. This procedure is popping up only if the computer and engine did not match from the factory and I did not get the CPU with the engine. Next time I will. -Do NOT cut anything off of the Datsun harness until the project is fully running and it all works, ask me how I know... I had to fight a couple of electrical gremlins that were working just fine before I took out the motor and they didn't once I was ready to drive"¦like brake lights and interior everything electrical, but the headlights, blinkers, stand alone engine and the gauges worked flawlessly. -I'd go 2-5/8" on the triple gauges. Mine look too small personally but they're fine and it's too late now -80 or 100 Micron Filter before the Walbro is mandatory but my 30 Micron did fine but supposedly too restrictive. -Upgrade the suspension/bushings like I did and redo all supporting components while they're easy to get to. -My clutch is actually for an LS1 T56 setup but works with what I have so there's my 2 cents"¦buy the trans first not the parts that go in it. They were having a new years sale and I just knew I'd be putting in a T56"¦ Push button momentary switch wired for the reverse lockout solenoid because my harness was made for a T56 and I am using a GPS speedo not the VSS. 3 amp fuse and a switch from RadioShack and it works good. Keeps me from going into reverse on a 6-5 downshift. It does literally take two hands to jam it in reverse without the solenoid activated and that will not mess it up because it's only a spring pushing back. More TR6060 downsides I'm coming aware of now that it's driveable, theres a slight clanging inside the trans when you let out of the clutch while it's in neutral. Apparently all 5th Gen Camaros have this from what I read even brand new ones with no miles on them (not just GM TR6060's either). It's a factory sound and slight vibration in the shifter (get a loud exhaust or a good stereo!). Another issue with buying a TR6060 are the batch of factory defective transmissions, which are serial numbers 0-25000 which have a weak main shaft that's not heat treated like the new ones and an issue about not having an output shaft bearing installed. This has been well known to modified 2010's and some 2011 cars that are manual that have broken with superchargers installed and even bone stock 436hp levels. I was unlucky and my serial is 24302... So since I'm going to only have low 300's for horsepower right now I'll be fine but in the future a main shaft upgrade will be necessary. Main shaft (stock) is good for up to 475hp from what I've read. Gearing is another aspect in transmissions that I was curious about as well... LS1 T56 - 2.66 , 1.78 , 1.3 , 1.0 , 0.74 , 0.50 (not GTO ratios) TR6060 - 3.01 , 2.07 , 1.43 , 1.0 , 0.84 , 0.57 Grand total costing me around $14k including the car. That includes a few screw ups, new GM 10.9 bolts everywhere, high end fluids/gaskets, and quality parts to make sure they will not fail during daily use. Most all the parts I bought were brand new unless it wasn't critical like the used headers. It took me approximately 1 year to do it all but could've been done in half the time if I dedicated more time to it. If I can figure out the picture situation I'll load some on here but until then all my pics are on Flickr via my signature below. Thanks Travis
