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Showing results for tags '280zx'.
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So I purchased these rear brackets from MSA, I installed everything they said to use , 85’ maxima calipers/pads(rear) , 82’ 280zx rotors(rear). It all mounts up fine, but the pads are only using about half, they don’t seem to fit all the all the way down using up all the rotor surface?? Has anyone else experienced this issue?
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Hi everyone, I'm new here, but had to make an account as I'm dying to figure out why I keep seeing photos online of 280zx's with what appear to be stock bumpers without any "bumps" for lack of a better term. Almost all s130's (including mine, 1979 2 seater) seem to have two bumps on both the front and rear bumpers, however these few that don't (I think) look much better. I also think the rear bumper on these "flat" versions might be smaller (protrude less). I have a theory that this may have something to do with the cars being JDM/RHD/not North American models but I haven't found anything to back this up. If anyone has an explanation or a place where these bumpers (or similar) can be purchased I would love to hear! I have attached some photos that I've found on the internet of the "flat" examples. Thanks! - Jim
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Ive been looking for a few hours now and i cant find what im looking for anywhere. Something i need to get out of the way, im not going to use toyota brakes... thats not what im looking for. What i would like to do is put z32 (or z31 5 lug) wheel hub, rotars, and calipers on my 1981 280zx turbo. My thought and question is, can i take off my 4 lug wheel hub and bolt on a z32 5 lug hub, then bolt directly on z32 4 piston stock brakes. I plan on doing 5 lug 15 inch wheels so I should have clearance but i dont know if everything will line up. I dont want to spend more than $500 on the brake conversion but I can go higher if i need to.
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hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb
- 30 replies
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- megasquirt
- ignition module
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Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
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getting ready to start the paint process on my s130. i barely have useable trim and weatherstripping but would make for much less of headache if i can find any peice of trim or weatherstripping. mainly looking for windshield and rear hatch glass trim and any weather stripping. thank you for any help
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hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
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Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
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Hello, I recently got my car running this past week after it was in hibernation for over a year. I bought the car in 2014 and never took the time to learn much about what I had. I was hoping someone could help me figure out what has been done to my engine. To my knowledge the motor and computer is from an '83 zx turbo. Also I told by another user that my valve cover breather hose is causing a major vaccum leak. What should I do? This album is from a previous post, but it has a few good pictures of the engine bay and motor. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
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I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
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Hi! The doors on my 280zx are rattling (partly cause the striker is worn) and the rubber cover/ bumper on the drivers side door switch is worn through, which makes the metal striker hit the door AND makes the door light turn on all the time (its great when the car thinks your door is opened overnight. Does wonder to battery charge) Two questions: 1. Can anyone tell me the original, brand new diameter for the plastic part of the door striker? I'll try to 3d print a replacement and see if that can work (possibly with a rubber core.. I'll post something somewhere if it works) 2. Can anyone tell me of a good place to buy the rubber cover for the door switches? Looking for price as a primary criteria... Thanks! Seb
- 4 replies
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- 280zx
- Door striker
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Clean title 119k miles Really reliable just did a 190 mile trip with it not a single issue New tires, brakes, water pump, and thermostat (Have the window spoiler thing will throw in for free) Automatic (pretty cheap to swap) Interior isn't the cleanest but it's not bad. It would make a great project car or even just a good cruiser. I can't keep it anymore so just throw me a reasonable offer.
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Just like the title says. FSM doesn't really go into the pinout of the black 2-row multipin connnector that powers the VFD's and carries the data signals for the fuel, temp, and such. I've had my cluster opened, and I'm trying to reverse engineer a method of making the connection to the car a bit more reliable than the stock connector allows. Instead of reinventing the wheel though, I'm wondering if any of the more technical folks have tried any reverse engineering of the digital cluster like this.
- 1 reply
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- 280zx
- digital cluster
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Hi, I'm looking for a set of springs for my 1981 280zx Turbo. I would really prefer Tokico but would consider other brands. PM or email guku416 at yahoo. Thanks
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In need of a complete, working 1982/1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo distributor/ignitor. I am located in 85120 I'm willing to hvw one shipped I need ASAP thank you.
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I need a fender for my 280zx that I am restoring. Preferably rust free. Willing to negotiate on price based upon the condition of your fender.
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Hi, Can installing a strut tower brace change my camber? For various reasons I have to do an alignment (race shop) on Monday but will get my triangular strut tower brace on Tuesday. Since the strut brace will push the towers outwards I am worried that it might mess up the camber. It is possible to change camber by pulling/pushing the struts outwards/inwards to the car I have T3 tension rods, MSA camber kit and stock struts (with different springs and shocks). This strut brace, http://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-front-ultimate-strut-tower-brace/datsun-280zx-ultimate-strut-tower-brace.html Car is 1980 280zx.
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Hi, There are many reports of OEM tension rods snapping when poly bushings are being used. But how about OEM tension rod bushings and stock tension rods? Is there any reports of stock tension rods snapping in this scenario as well? Car is a chumpcar racecar, it's an 1980 280zx with some suspension upgrades. If this is the case I will get a pair of Techno toy tension rods. Thanks
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My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
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Hi everyone, I've read the how to article on here for using a stock tach with the MSD setup and was wondering if anyone had any experience using the stock tach in a 240z with a 280zx matchbox distributor. Looking forward to hearing some results! I'm trying to stick with the stock gauges as best as possible for a period look. Chris
- 4 replies
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- distributor
- tachometer
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I tried to post this in "Parts for Sale" but was unable to start a topic there. Hey all! I should start out by saying I'm testing the waters for parting out vs selling the motor/transmission whole. I have a running 1982 280zx. All stock. 150,000 miles on the motor and the car. Injector fans, AC, everything still works on the car. Even the little work light. If there is a big enough demand for parting out the motor and I can move it fast enough, I will part it out. If not, I'm going to try to sell the motor and transmission whole. So if there is something you would like go ahead and let me know. I'm getting rid of the 5/spd manual transmission as well. Keeping the R200. My reason for getting rid of everything is that I am swapping the L28 out for an LQ4. I will let you know what I decide within the next 2 weeks. Can post pictures of parts if requested. Thank you! Ford
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We have been speaking with BC Racing to create a coilover system for the 280ZX We already have a 1980 ZX to use as template but we wanted to know what are things that customers would be interested in like extreme kit, camber plates and other. We also wanted to know if there's any difference between years or models on the 280ZX. Please let us know if there's any interest so we can make this happen.
- 8 replies
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- 280zx
- bc coilovers
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Hey guys, first off - awesome site ! here goes = 280zx original. im gutting interior to follow standard GT3 rules and regs. light roll cage to accommodate 2 racing seats and belts. This car will remain a daily driver and be tagged, thus horn, blinkers etc . will continue to work. pulling motor and installing a SBC race engine with about 350 hP. Its a 4 bolt maine with a holley 4412, 2 bbl carb. 9:1 compression. Saginaw 1.68 3 speed transmission my question is (and please try to just answer the question with a answer and not more questions or opinions) will the stock rear end and axels handle the power ? I wont be dumping the clutch and doing burn outs (drag racing style) I will be daily driving this car and weekend road course racing it ! thanks guys !!!
- 3 replies
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- 280zx
- race engine
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Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
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- megasquirt
- turbo
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