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From the album: 73 240z
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So, as many of you can already assume, I'm Greg and I've owned a 1978 280z for a little over a month. Although my time with the car has been short, many plans are in place to replace and restore many parts. Currently, the plan is to do the notorious LS1 engine swap, lowered on Stance Coilovers, STR 514 wheels (17x9 square with a 3.5 inch machined lip), ZG Wide Flares, etc. but first, body work is the first priority on my list. From the day I first bought the car, little changes have been made to the car... -
I searched and searched and searched endlessly to build a spreadsheet of what to buy before ever taking on this journey from the car to what I wanted in the drivetrain for approximately 2.5 years. Searching craigslist/copart/ebay endlessly until I ran across a deal in my budget for a $2k running driving Z car. This led me to Virginia and I bought this daily driver 1976 280Z with 168k miles and in fairly good shape. My uncle and I drove it home 300+ miles with dry rotted 10 year old tires and 40 year old bushings with a slight hint of white smoke under hard acceleration on the interstate! Then the build began"¦ This was in March of 2012 just after grabbing my BS in Civil Engineering from UT Knoxville in Dec of 2011. I didn't start buying until December of 2012 and I haven't stopped since haha[/font][/size] -First I had to figure out the dreaded fluid in the passenger floorboard...leaky heater control valve so I wound up using a Bronco heater valve 74628 (Advance Auto Parts), 2-90* hoses, spare pieces of 5/8" hose and some hose clamps to fix that right up. PITA to get to with stock heater core/ac junk in the way BTW. Future plans are JCI/Vintage Air! -Engine spec'd out to be cheaper for an LS1 pullout if I could find the right deal but after considering the fuel mileage gains and ease of finding another engine for less if it went south I went 5.3 all the way. Plus boost always sounds better for the future! I have a spreadsheet list for that too! -2002 5.3 from a Chevy Avalanche with 80k that ran good (or at least that's what the guy at the junkyard said!) -Drive by cable was my goal from the start to get a better "feel" for the car so I bought a new throttle body and used ls1 intake, fuel rails, oil pan/pickup tube, etc... But I kept the truck spacing on the accessories (cheaper). -Transmission, besides the car, this was the worst to find and ultimately I went with the TR6060 over the T56. -2011 Camaro SS TR6060 with 2k miles ($1600 with free head stud kit valued around $225) -TR6060 has more stock holding power than a T56, a trans cooling system, and supposedly shifts smoother -But the downsides are that it is more rare (1st in a LS-Z), fixed yoke rear, taller gears, & uses a remote shifter From then on out I used the "Documemtation" of how to swap an LS1 T56 combo into a Z car and along side other builds on HybridZ to get to where I'm at. From Cooling to the RT Diff Mount to the Fuel Cell Setup I've researched and stalked tons of pages to get where I'm at and asked a handful of questions. My hats off to the site and all who put their 2 cents in because it would've been harder without it for sure. If I can help anybody else that has questions just shoot me a message about the swap. HybridZ and LS1Tech are your best friends during this swap so use them! The 5.3 had no real issues as in tapping the alternator hole (I was scared to do this at first) or cutoff the protruding section from the side of the block but it cuts like butter with a saw. 11/32" Drill Bit & 10mm x 1.5 Tap. I did mine inside the car, so out or in it doesn't matter. My goal is to daily drive it to work to keep miles off my truck and to replace my burning passion for buying a new Vette since I bought a new '12 Duramax instead. So power upgrades are essential to fulfill my daily need for speed. Future dream plans are a turbo, beefed up rear, and A/C. But I'm not sure if they can all be satisfied together so we'll see or I may just go and build another with a 5.3/auto/turbo drag setup and leave the stick with a/c for autox/daily driving. Engine: -5.3L 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 80k Miles -JCI Engine Mount Kit -MSD Plugs 32829 (Truck Coil Setup) -LS1 Stock Throttle Body -LS1 Intake 12560688 -LS1 Oil Pan 12558899 (Oil Filter: PF46E AC Delco / M1-107 Mobil) -LS1 3 Pin MAF Sensor -LS1 Stock 26 lb/hr Injectors -LS1 Alternator Bracket + ¾" spacers -Tap 10mm-1.5 (Hanson 8340) and 11/32" Drill Bit for Alt Hole in Block -Ribbed Pulley Advance Auto (P/N: 89015) -EGR Block off Plug Dorman 1-3/8" -Lokar LS1 Throttle Cable 36" -Custom Intake Throttle Cable Bracket -Custom Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket -4" to 3.5" Elbow to 3.5" Cone Air Filter -Dayco 5060548 Serpentine Belt for Alternator Only Setup -Truck Crank Pulley, Water Pump, Alternator, & Belt Tensioner -TunedbyFrost for 93 Octane (+25-28rwhp) & P1336 Code Removal -LS1 Drivers Side Clamshell Motor Mount (5.3 one won't work) -LS1 Dipstick 12551581 and Dipstick Tube 12551577 Transmission: -TR6060 2011 Camaro SS 2k Miles -Custom Transmission Rear Mount to Frame Rails -Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid (4 Quarts) 01512 -Perma-Cool Hose Barb Fittings 11/32" to 6AN (P/N: 15265) -2 "“ 6AN 90* Elbow Female to Male Swivel Fittings (Route Cooling Lines) -Custom Remote Shifter Mount and Linkage Rod (DO NOT BOLT TO TRANS TUNNEL) -Tremec Shifter TKO600 New Takeoff -Pro 5.0 Shifter Lever + 6 Speed Shifter Ball -GM 4l60e to 6AN Fittings (P/N: 12055) Choice Motorsports LLC (+ C Clips) -Stock Camaro SS Trans Mount -*Reverse Lockout is the same plug for LT1-T56/LS1-T56/LS3-TR6060 Clutch: -Monster Stage 2 "“ 12" LS1 Clutch Package with clutch alignment tool etc"¦ -Chromoly Billet 18lb Flywheel -Tilton 75-875U (7/8") -48" SS Braided 4AN Clutch Line (TOOOO Long "“ go 36") Tilton to TR6060 -Tick Performance TR6060 Clutch Speed Bleeder (Just Do It) -Welded on Male 4AN Steel Bung to Slave Cylinder Steel Line In Bellhousing -GM AC Delco TR6060 Pilot Bearing 12557583 (NOT a T56 Bearing) Driveline: -GTOPL-2 Aluminum Fixed Yoke Driveshaft Adapter (1350 Size U-Joint) -Slip Driveshaft (Oliver's Driveshaft in NC) 1350 to 1310 (23-9/16" Long) -R200 Neapco Adapter 2-2-899-1 with a 1310 Size U-Joint (M8-1.25x35mm) -RT Diff Mount from Techno Versions LLC and Modified Prothane Bushing -R200 3.54 (Stock) Open Differential (1 Tire Fire!) -Modern Motorsports 300ZX Turbo Half Shaft Adapters (New) -1986 300ZX Turbo (84-89) CV Axles (New) Flipped Cages to Shorten -75w90 Diff Fluid Lucas 2 Quarts (2.75 Pints = 1.375 Quarts to Full) -Differential Overflow Tank Exhaust: -JCI Headers Used (Non Ceramic Coated) #DAT-405 (Used) -Dual 2.5" to the Rear of Trans/Driveshaft then Y into 3" out the back -Borla Muffler 40359 Pro XS 3" In/Out (almost identical size to stock muffler) Suspension: -Full Removal of All Suspension Front/Rear and Sanded/Painted -Full Poly Bushing Master Kit (Red) 7.18102R Hyper Flex -Tokico 5 Way Adjustable Springs(Red)/Struts(White) Combo -10w-30 Fluid Refilled in Stock Strut Cartridges -Rear Spindle Pins/Bushings Replaced By Previous Owner Recently!!! -KYB Dust Boots (Plastic) with Bump Stop (Not Strapped on the Bottom) Wheels/Tires/Brakes: -XXR 531's in 16x8 with +0 Offset (Black/Polished Lip) -Falken 225/50/16 with no rubbing on stock/tokico suspension -Stock Brake Calipers Cleaned and Painted Hi-Temp Red -Speed Bleeders on All Corners -Hawk HP Plus HB169N.560 Front Pads -Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (All 4) -New Front Rotors -Rear Drums Already Had New Pads Cooling: -3 Row Aluminum Direct Fit Radiator with Drain Plug -"˜93 Taurus/Sable (91-95) 2 Speed 3.8L Fan with Connector Plug -Stock 5.3 Hose Modified to Fit Upper Hose -22478 Gates Hose from Oreilly's for Lower Radiator Hose -New Factory 186* Thermostat + Housing (Built Together) -¾" and 5/8" Heater Hose Lines and a ¾ to 5/8 adapter -JTR Hose Tee with 5/16" Steam Barb and Air Bleeder -Radiator Overflow Tank Gauges/Wiring: -ChevyThunder.com Stand Alone CPU/Harness for 5.3/LS1 w/ OBDII+CEL -Speedhut 4" GPS Speedo 160MPH w/ Blinkers+High Beam GR4-GPS-05T -Speedhut 4" 8k RPM Tach (See Group Buy on Speedhut"¦) GR4-TACH-02 -Glowshift 2-1/16" Oil/Water/Fuel Gauges 7 Color LED -JEG's Fuel Pressure Gauge (on fuel rail at firewall) -Oil Gauge Pressure Sending Unit behind intake on top of motor -Water Gauge Sending Unit on rear of passenger head at the battery -Autometer 2277 "“ 12m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Water Temp Sensor to LS Pass Head -Autometer 2268 "“ 16m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Oil Press Sending Unit Plug Top Block -Brass 1/8" NPT 45* Fitting for Oil Pressure Sending Unit Aftermarket -8 Guage Red Wire From Alternator to Battery -Stinger 4 Maxi Fuse Holder and Appropriate Fuses for Year Model Fuel System: -15 Gallon Universal Fuel Cell w/ Built-In Sending Unit (0-90 Ohm) -Fuel Cell Hanging Mounts and Padding + Other Mounts -Fuel Filler Neck Behind License Plate -Flip Down License Plate Bracket -Vented Gas Cap -Dual 10AN on the rear of the Cell (10 to 8 reducer) -8AN Pushlock Hose to the 100 Micron 8AN Fuel Filter -Walbro GSL392 (255) Fuel Pump -Corvette C5 FPR WIX 33737 -6AN WIX FPR Fittings 640860, 640850, 640940 (Russell Fittings) -6AN Pushlock Hose From Pump to FPR -6AN Pushlock Hose From FPR to Fuel Rails & FPR to Tank Return -Fuel Line Holder Clips with Rubber to Run Fuel Lines -LS1 Fuel Rail 3/8" Hardline to 6AN Push-On Fitting is RUS640850 -Stock LS1 Injectors 26 lb/hr -*6AN Size Fuel Line is good for up to 450HP -16' of 6AN and 3' of 8AN Push Lock Hose Recommended Tools: (besides the usual ones"¦I had to buy/borrow these) -Engine Hoist 1 Ton (Harbor Freight $105) -Load Leveler (Harbor Freight $20) -Torque Wrench (Mainly for Clutch Install) -Slide Hammer (Harbor Freight $15 for Stub Axle Removal) -Mig Welder (Lincoln Electric 140HD + Mig Gas $700 total) -Brake Line Wrench (Craftsman 10mm/12mm $10) -Spare Sets of Wrenches in Metric (Whole Car is 10/12/14mm"¦) Issues/Advice: -Crankshaft Relearn Procedure P1336 "“ It cannot be completed unless a factory setup is in place and I did not have this so I went ahead and had Frost tune that code out. The engine will try to run properly but won't let itself until this is done even though the crankshaft is mechanical. Other than that the engine ran flawlessly from ChevyThunder's harness. This procedure is popping up only if the computer and engine did not match from the factory and I did not get the CPU with the engine. Next time I will. -Do NOT cut anything off of the Datsun harness until the project is fully running and it all works, ask me how I know... I had to fight a couple of electrical gremlins that were working just fine before I took out the motor and they didn't once I was ready to drive"¦like brake lights and interior everything electrical, but the headlights, blinkers, stand alone engine and the gauges worked flawlessly. -I'd go 2-5/8" on the triple gauges. Mine look too small personally but they're fine and it's too late now -80 or 100 Micron Filter before the Walbro is mandatory but my 30 Micron did fine but supposedly too restrictive. -Upgrade the suspension/bushings like I did and redo all supporting components while they're easy to get to. -My clutch is actually for an LS1 T56 setup but works with what I have so there's my 2 cents"¦buy the trans first not the parts that go in it. They were having a new years sale and I just knew I'd be putting in a T56"¦ Push button momentary switch wired for the reverse lockout solenoid because my harness was made for a T56 and I am using a GPS speedo not the VSS. 3 amp fuse and a switch from RadioShack and it works good. Keeps me from going into reverse on a 6-5 downshift. It does literally take two hands to jam it in reverse without the solenoid activated and that will not mess it up because it's only a spring pushing back. More TR6060 downsides I'm coming aware of now that it's driveable, theres a slight clanging inside the trans when you let out of the clutch while it's in neutral. Apparently all 5th Gen Camaros have this from what I read even brand new ones with no miles on them (not just GM TR6060's either). It's a factory sound and slight vibration in the shifter (get a loud exhaust or a good stereo!). Another issue with buying a TR6060 are the batch of factory defective transmissions, which are serial numbers 0-25000 which have a weak main shaft that's not heat treated like the new ones and an issue about not having an output shaft bearing installed. This has been well known to modified 2010's and some 2011 cars that are manual that have broken with superchargers installed and even bone stock 436hp levels. I was unlucky and my serial is 24302... So since I'm going to only have low 300's for horsepower right now I'll be fine but in the future a main shaft upgrade will be necessary. Main shaft (stock) is good for up to 475hp from what I've read. Gearing is another aspect in transmissions that I was curious about as well... LS1 T56 - 2.66 , 1.78 , 1.3 , 1.0 , 0.74 , 0.50 (not GTO ratios) TR6060 - 3.01 , 2.07 , 1.43 , 1.0 , 0.84 , 0.57 Grand total costing me around $14k including the car. That includes a few screw ups, new GM 10.9 bolts everywhere, high end fluids/gaskets, and quality parts to make sure they will not fail during daily use. Most all the parts I bought were brand new unless it wasn't critical like the used headers. It took me approximately 1 year to do it all but could've been done in half the time if I dedicated more time to it. If I can figure out the picture situation I'll load some on here but until then all my pics are on Flickr via my signature below. Thanks Travis
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Hey guys! This is my first post on the fourm, but i have been looking through posts for about 2 months now. I am a 16 year old high school student who LOVES the datsun Z cars. It has been an intrest, basically an obsession, to build one of my own. So i guess i just have a bunch of questions that i would love to have answered. Thanks! Alighty guys, so i have very little knowledge in mechanics but i have tons of family friends who just so happen to own their own shops so i dont think actually doing mechanical things would be a huge problem. So basically what i want to do is build a 240, 260, or 280Z. I currently drive a 2007 nissan maxima and i love it but i really want a manual transmission and i love the way the Zs look. so here are my questions and inquiries. should i go with an already partially restored or restored z and just fork out the extra cash? or go with one i can restore myself. should i stay with the stock engine or swap to a 350z, i forget the numbers and letters, motor or even a L28et? of corse i want to go fast hahaha i dont want a track moster or a show car. i want something nice looking and fast(16 year old fast) that wont berak the bank in upgrading parts what will i need? i guess my thing is i want to know what is the best platform for building a Z and i want to know virtually everything to build my Z thanks guys, i know my questions are very vague but it's hard to describe exactly what i want on here thanks again guys!
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Im looking for a nice front bumper and passenger fender. The fender has to.be rust free and in overall good shape. Show me what you got at rolaz1995@yahoo.com
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Hey all I have a 1978 280z I've been trying to diagnose a problem I've been having for the last month and a half or so. Lately the problem has escalated and is affecting drivability. Fuel cuts out a lot , like it's "falling on it's face" I know it's not an electrical problem, vacuum is good, haven't done a fuel pressure test, I replaced my inline and under the hood fuel filters no change, been running fuel system cleaner for the last 3 weeks, I was starting to get the idea that maybe the catalytic converter could be clogged, but I'm not sure. I definitely think that is the problem or it's a fuel delivery issue, and would like some help diagnosing the problem. car is still somewhat drivable under slow acceleration, it is my daily driver. it also idles fine and responds to throttle normally when in neutral. also passed smog about five months ago, all of the cylinders are running slightly lean except cylinder 5 which is burning oil (per spark plug inspection). I work m-f 9-5pm so it's difficult for me to take my car in to a mechanic, any ideas would be appreciated and yes I have been using the search function and trying many things before I finally decided to make this post. I may take a day off next week to take the car into datsun alley in signal hill by my house, but until then I'll be trying to get it up an running myself. Another things is that it idles slightly higher (~200 rpms) after being driven for around 20 minutes.
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I don't really know how to start my thread but I will give it my best shot. After reading from many JDM photo journalism websites I decided I wanted a project I could call my own from the ground up. When I saw the Common Snapper 240z I immediately fell in love with the classic lines of the car and decided to get my own. I purchased my non-running, rust free, accident free 240z October 22, 2010 for $2000. For Alaskan standards it was a deal. It wasn't pretty, didn't run and takes up space so the wife KNOWS its a money pit. Especially after I told her the motor was going to be coming from Japan. Excited to start I pulled the motor and fenders and stopped there. A year later I purchased what looks to be a good running rb25det neo motor and transmission. A year later I decided to start working on it again and pulled the front suspension and steering. Which brings me to the now. I'm researched out, tired of staring at it and really really need some inspiration and motivation and hope to find it here. I want it done but done right. I've come to the realization that because of my geographic location this shit isn't going to be cheap. With the lack of imports in Alaskan junkyards shipping will be my worst enemy even if the part is cheap and used. I'm open to any reasonable suggestions and ideas. Thanks for your time and kind words Jennings.
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From the album: HandyGandy Zcar
Bought the car on 6/16/11 with 161,611 miles. Car was literally ALL ORIGINAL except the tires when I bought the car. -
From the album: HandyGandy Zcar
A picture of my VIN plate when I purchased the car. -
Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project. As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance. Here is a dyno pull!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html Here is a run at the track!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C! Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity. Makes ya sick. Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver. Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat. First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA..... Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking. I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc. Look at the boxes of parts WOW! I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up. Before.... After.... Bolted to the head with cam timing done. Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right! While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z. To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s. Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP! So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke. He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed. Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff. Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount! Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line. Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans Stay tuned for the process....... -
From the album: My Z Car
This is the first picture of my 280zxt that I took the night I brought it home. The car was literally ALL original with 161,611 miles on it. Bought it from the second owner who owned it from 05-11. He drove it to and from his job at NASA during the spring and kept it garaged the rest of the year. I bought the car for $2500 and have driven it daily for a year out of the two that I've owned it so far. -
Hi guys! I'm new on here and to cars but hopefully I'll catch on quickly. I originally bought my 280zx to convert it into a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO but have recently scrapped the idea because I have neither the money nor the knowledge to do such a dramatic transformation. Now its just being turned into a car to take to the drag strip, which hopefully doesnt make too many of you cringe in horror but it's better to wreck a $1000 dollar car than one thats worth at least 8 to 10 right? There is a lot more rust on it than I thought there was. The previous owner had it for a year and left it outside and the guy before him had it sitting in his garage for 5 years. If nothing else it will be a good learner car. As far as i can tell its all stock, manual and not the turbo version though id like to put one on one day. As for damage so far, somebody tried to steal the front bumper (when it was in that guys garage) which ruined the air dam cause the tossers didnt know about the 2 bolts connected to the fenders which are damaged too. Rust every where im finding out, hole rotted under passenger seat, rust bubbling up around the top of the windshield, the usual rusted on nuts and bolts (better get a dozen cans of WD40) and a mouse nest on top of the engine. Its just a track car but I want the little lady to look respectable, though I bet that will be a challenge going to a drag track with a mostly stock Datsun. I'm there to have fun and go down the track not beat anyone, though that would be a bonus. The plan is to keep most of it stock since im on a pretty strict budget because i would like to attend an auto mechanics school in the fall. She's already undergoing severe diet surgery since that is one of the few things im capable of doing on my own. My roommate is a mechanic and he told me the first thing i need to do is get a race brake booster which will be priced out today, and if its affordable enough, purchased. I'll worry about the rollcage later because its not going to break the 12 second barrier let alone the 10 second. Unfortunately its not run yet because there is no battery which will also change today. Still have to drain the several year old gas as well. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the vacuum lines for the fuel injection system? Id like to minimize the amount of stuff in the engine bay. Also is there a better, inexpensive ecu I could put in it just to limit things and make it more effective? Hope to hear from you guys. Pics to follow. Thomas
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Hi guys! I'm new on here and to cars but hopefully I'll catch on quickly. I originally bought my 280zx to convert it into a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO but have recently scrapped the idea because I have neither the money nor the knowledge to do such a dramatic transformation. Now its just being turned into a car to take to the drag strip, which hopefully doesnt make too many of you cringe in horror but it's better to wreck a $1000 dollar car than one thats worth at least 8 to 10 right? There is a lot more rust on it than I thought there was. The previous owner had it for a year and left it outside and the guy before him had it sitting in his garage for 5 years. If nothing else it will be a good learner car. As far as i can tell its all stock, manual and not the turbo version though id like to put one on one day. As for damage so far, somebody tried to steal the front bumper (when it was in that guys garage) which ruined the air dam cause the tossers didnt know about the 2 bolts connected to the fenders which are damaged too. Rust every where im finding out, hole rotted under passenger seat, rust bubbling up around the top of the windshield, the usual rusted on nuts and bolts (better get a dozen cans of WD40) and a mouse nest on top of the engine. Its just a track car but I want the little lady to look respectable, though I bet that will be a challenge going to a drag track with a mostly stock Datsun. I'm there to have fun and go down the track not beat anyone, though that would be a bonus. The plan is to keep most of it stock since im on a pretty strict budget because i would like to attend an auto mechanics school in the fall. She's already undergoing severe diet surgery since that is one of the few things im capable of doing on my own. My roommate is a mechanic and he told me the first thing i need to do is get a race brake booster which will be priced out today, and if its affordable enough, purchased. I'll worry about the rollcage later because its not going to break the 12 second barrier let alone the 10 second. Unfortunately its not run yet because there is no battery which will also change today. Still have to drain the several year old gas as well. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the vacuum lines for the fuel injection system? Id like to minimize the amount of stuff in the engine bay. Also is there a better, inexpensive ecu I could put in it just to limit things and make it more effective? Hope to hear from you guys. Pics to follow. Thomas
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Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.
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So i recently purchased a 4/1987 z31 turbo 300zx donor for my s30 l28et project. Originally I planned to fix her up and make her my daily for a while, unfortunately the HOA has issues with my roomates and i having several cars parked outside. Therefore I have to pull the parts i need for my s30 so i can get it off the street. I know for a fact that i can use the transmission, differential, rear brakes, and ecu. I think i might have read once that i could use the axels and half shafts as well. Is there any other parts that you guys would recommend that i should pull off of the donor car while it is still available? Any advice or suggestions that could be offered would be greatly appreciated. I have done my research and to my knowledge this is all that i would need off of the z31. i would hate to sell it and wish i had pulled something more. I know these builds are quit common so any other helpful hints or advice would be awesome. Any other forum suggestions would be helpful too i tried searching this topic and nothing came up so sorry to start a new thread if one already exist. cheers -
Anyone out there seen this painting on any other Z's around? Custom paint design. here's a link to the video.
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Hey guys, As the title says, I'm looking to buy a first gen S30 Roller. Been HIGHLY interested in getting one over the past few weeks and I plan on it. Preferable minimal to no rust, most/all parts in tact with roller. If you have one with rust and has a few missing parts let me know. I don't discriminate and I sure can put a use to my welders and nibblers.
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Hi all, I have a '76 280z that's essentially bone stock. When I started driving yesterday, I had a couple drips of water fall on me. Condensation on my windows is nothing new to me, but when I looked up, I noticed that there were a bunch of water droplets hanging on my headliner! They were almost all right above the driver seat. I'm getting the feeling that this isn't normal, and probably isn't very healthy for the headliner. I'm pretty sure I have a leak in the firewall that goes to the driver side floor, but I don't think that would cause it? Do I just have to replace all of the weatherstip gaskets around the car? Thanks, - Pac_Man
