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Showing results for tags 'TURBO'.
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Can anyone tell me which vac hose to tap for a mechanical boost gauge on an L28ET? I took a pic. Bonus if you can draw an arrow pointing to a specific hose! -
So you may have seen my build thread. I am converting my N/A L28 to turbo using the stock N42/N42 motor with a 2mm HKS head gasket and a compression ratio of 7.65:1. Upon my research I have found that finding the exact turbo for this build is alot harder than I though. And requires some pretty good knowledge of how turbos work, compressor maps etc.. I've done some searching here and there but havent seen anyone doing my setup so far with the N42 combo with the 2mm gasket. Feel free to chime in and I'm curios to know what turbos you guys are running, and also if you have some helpful advice to steer me in the right direction that would be very helpful as well. I will continue my research either way. Here is what my goals are: Full spool by 3k-4k rpms. 300whp capable. 500-900 dollar price range (preferably around 700-800 if possible) These are the things I can think of at the moment, I am probably forgetting something. but a 3-4k spool seems like the best for the rpm range of this build (6500). Feel free to chime in with any advice, criticism, or whatever you'd like! I am wanting to learn, and wanting to make sure my setup is right the first time. Like I said earlier I will continue this research but I figured I'd put this post out here so I can see what people have to say. Shameless build plug >Click Me<
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I've been doing hours of research and have decided to get a boost gauge for my 280z with L28ET turbo swap. The problem is, I don't really like the look of any of the mechanical gauges. I really like the Speedhut one where you can "Design your own" and has an LED warning light: http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-01/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-20psi-(w--warning) I called and they said this was an electronic gauge. I know that installing a mechanical one is easy, but is an electronic boost gauge just as simple? It looks like speedhut supplies you with a pressure sensor and sensor wiring harness. It seems like you would just tap into the vacuum line with the T fitting, plug in the pressure sensor to the t-fitting, and run their sensor wiring harness to your gauge instead of a vacuum line like you would for a mechanical one. Is this correct?
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1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
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So about a week ago my car started to have issues when it got up to temp. It would originally start, idle, and run fine, but after the car began to get warm it would lean out like crazy (have a wideband installed) and there would be no response when throttle was applied under load. It did this for a few days until it decided to completely die on my way home from the gym. After a few minutes the car would start and idle lean on the side of the road, but then die immediately with any throttle (not under load). The engine is from a 1983 280zx turbo. After a little bit of research I'm wondering if it is my Crank Angle Sensor in my distributor, but I'm still very confused. I don't think it's a wet Throttle Position Sensor because I had that problem recently and I removed it/dried it out and the car ran fine. Also the symptoms are different due to not even idling rather than failing at 2000rpm. Short video with symptoms: https://streamable.com/nn9ls -
(Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
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As the title says, I'm looking for the wastegate housing that bolts to the back of the turbine from a stock 280zx turbo. I'd possibly be interested in picking up a complete turbo too, if necessary. Again, thanks in advance!
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I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
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Hi all, I've finally decided to crawl out of my cave and surface my build here. I felt like I was taking more from this forum than I was giving. My build used a TON of info that I was able to unearth via this site. My hope is that my build adds to the plethora of information on here and helps others as much as it has helped me. Anyhow, I've been trying my best with the limited network/connections I have to get suggestions on where I should start with jetting for my turbo surge tank set up. I feel like I hit a dead end. I know that I have to fine tune the jetting for MY set up...so I'm currently in the process of installing a wide band O2 sensor and a boost gauge. However, does anyone here with experience have a ballpark estimate on jet sizes in an application like this? I don't want to start tuning my engine and have it catastrophically fail or damage my newly rebuilt motor because my jets are way out of line. Here is my set up: Engine: L28 N42 Block E88 Head (Debating on whether or not to install my spare P79 head in) 280zx Turbo dished pistons .020" oversize 1mm headgasket Stock L28 rods 280zxt stock exhaust manifold Custom 2.5" to 3" turbo back exhaust T3 Turbo w/internal wastegate: Compressor: Trim:55 Inducer Diameter:50.5 mm Exducer Diameter:76 mm A/R:0.5 Turbine Trim:73 Inducer Diameter:65.5 mm Exducer Diameter:55.9 mm A/R:0.63 Triple Mikuni 40PHH Carbs Main Jet: 145 Main Air Jet: 200 Pilot Jet: 60 Pump Nozzle: 0.45 I was able to find one member on here who ran a similar set up with a bone stock N42 block/internals 20+ years ago. He ran a 145 main jet. However, I was not able to find out what size his air correctors were. Any suggestions on baseline jet settings for a set up like this? Or am I just on my own with my O2 sensor analysis? I have included pictures for you! Please excuse the mess, it's still under construction. Thanks in advance!
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I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
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Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
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I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
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This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.
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This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
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So I bought a 1981 Datsun 280zx with a stock N/a l28e engine in it...OR so i thought. We tore this thing apart and found that it had an F54 block with an N42 head, BUT, with dished pistons. So I'm not sure if these are early n/a dished pistons or just a turbo block that has been changed to run n/a. Anyway, the original plan for this car was a low boost turbocharger upgrade. so i bought a P79 head for it, dropping the compression ratio to 7.8:1, compared to the factory 8.7:1 with the flat top pistons. I started a new thread because i haven't seen one thread that i can relate to with this Mix-n-Match motor that i have. My questions are: 1. Why do you think this block has been pieced together from many different years of Zs and using dished pistons for an N/A build? 2. how much boost would be safe to run with that compression ratio (7.8:1) provided my AFR is in a relatively stoich range? I have a wide-band for it so i can monitor the mixture and will have an intercooler, bigger injectors, etc. Thanks to those who take time to reply.
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Made this turbo back exhaust for this Rb powered 240z, it's made from oval tubing and round tubing. Fully tig welded stainless steel. A HKS Hi-power muffler was used at the back. Rear spare tire well was cut in order to clear the enormous muffler ( customer didn't realize how big the canister was) Cut some sheetmetal and Beadrolled it for strength and style. Came out pretty clean and it sounds awesome! I will try and upload a video here or link to youtube.
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I've been trying to sell my 84 300zx turbo for a while and, I guess, subconsciously don't want to. I've been bouncing back and forth on what swap I wanted. Mainly the main ones that tend to pop up from S30 owners. You know. Big blocks to RB,SR,28et,stock and maybe even KA. I came across someone who wanted it for the ecu and wiring and some other thing/s I forget. They bailed out last minute on me, for good reason. Now, I think I want to go VG30ET into the 73. I've seen a couple topics about this swap. One of the best documented was Zr8eds. Not sure if that's the correct spelling. Unfortunately, it was for a 280z. Unsure of the year. Still not quite certain if I wanted to go on and tackle this, but it's sounds fairly "simple". I dont mean that at all. I know what task this will be. Words are great, but I would like to see pictures of mounting. I've heard a KA alternator bracket for clearing the frame rail;using the pathfinder or the vg plenums to clear hood latch; not putting the swap too far back for turbo clearance of the steering rack. I have a complete vg30et car. I was wondering if anyone ever known of someone that just subrame, with the mounts, from the z31 and mounted it somehow to the s30. If the swap was aligned to meet diff to driveshaft to transmission will the motor mounts align better? More questions, but I'll start from there. Thanks for the time folks. Feedback is greatly appreciated. Try not to hurt my feelings. Haha
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I currently have a P90 head that needs to be replaced on an F54 block. PM me if you have one available. Thanks, Zack
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Looking for Half Shafts - Left Rear and Right Rear, 29 spline for a 280zx turbo year 81-83
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Wanted as title says. In good shape. Thankss!
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Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
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Hi all, This is my first post on this forum. I have a 1970 240z that I am currently working. I am picking up an L28et as well as a 5 speed transmission from a 1983 280zx. I am looking to get a good amount of power out of this engine (around 450+ whp). After hours of research I have come up with the following L28et P90 head- port and polish dewebbed intake manifold JE forged flat top pistons (raise compression to 8:5:1) Injector 550cc Holset hx35 turbo Fuel rail? Depends what's out there Stand alone megasquirt ecu Differential 3.9 or 4.11 r180 3" exhaust I know I am missing a few things but I just wanted to get your guys input. I am new to these engines so please bear with me. Thanks.
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Blew my turbo on the way back from SoCal. Rather than buy a replacement turbo, I figured it's time for an upgrade. So I did some research and bought the ISR(formerly know as ISIS) Performance RS3871. I'm planning on doing a top mount set up and haven't seen any info on what will and what won't work fitment wise. Is it their any issues that I need to worry about? I've seen photos of top mount set ups on the interwebs so I am just hoping is super easy and all I have to do is buy the top mount manifold and the supporting mods. BTW: these are the turbo specs Compressor side 3" inlet Exhaust side 0.64 A/R turbine housing, Results: This turbo is rated up to ~380hp.
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So back I Orlando. Put another gasket on the turbo to down pipe and it leaked again. You can actually stick a small flat head in between the top 2 bolts on the flange and wiggle the gasket. That's with the bolts tight. Looks like the down pipe flange is warped. I am going to get another gasket and try again. Just trying to help tooquick260 get on the road for this upcoming great weather here in Florida. Anyone had this issue?
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Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
