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  1. Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
  2. Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
  3. Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring fourth photo: on the car
  4. Hey guys, I have my 240z stripped all the way down and working on fixing some body issues before rebuild. I have replaced the roof skin as I had an aftermarket sunroof and wanted a slicktop. I'm wondering if I need to replace the entire section of the rear bumper/valance that goes all the way up to the hatch or just cut and patch the damaged portion. I don't have any experience with body work so not sure what the best approach would be. There is a very small ripple in the floor of the hatch and the very end of the frame rail has a little wow in it. Also looks like the right taillight frame is slightly bent. See pics. Thanks in advance! Cheers!
  5. I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
  6. So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
  7. So I'm in the upper midwest and I'm not aware of any places near me that would be a good place to test sit in semi-racing seats (seats that hold you better than stock but are still comfortable and adjustable/recline, etc., and accept harnesses), and I definitely don't want to just buy a bunch and return the uncomfortable ones as shipping costs would be stupid. I'm a big guy with wide hips and shoulders, any recommendations out there for a brands/styles that are better for the bigger people, that are type that described above (semi-racing)? Don't really want to turn this into a "what fits into an S30" post cuz then I'll just get a "use the search button" response, but if you happen to know of some bigger comfier semi-racing seats that just happen to bolt up and fit in an S30, try to draw attention to that note haha. I'm willing to make brackets and etc. Just to give you an idea of size, I have a waist size of 46, and if you've ever sat in a s14, those stock cloth seats hurt my butt cuz the wings are too narrow.
  8. I thought I would share some of the progress on my project RoninZ. Awhile back I wanted to do something different but still make my s30 handle better. Also wanted to find parts easily (cheaply). I asked and search for anyone that had done an s13 IRS swap into the s30 and found some old posts here in HZ and other forums. well I pulled the trigger and canibalized my s13 and put as much parts into the s30. The engine was going in also (sr20det) but that changed which is another topic. Anyway the IRS went in, a lot easier than I thought but, because of engine choice I couldn't use the s13 front suspension, and the z suspension was pitched. So, this brings me to this topic. I did some research and decided that I wanted to do the Double Wishbone/A-Arm suspension. I went with CA Chassishttps://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1556-a-arm-suspension-4x2-crossmember-custom-fit-factory-welded-crossmember-only.aspx Here is the crossmember with the disc before install on frame Here is the top view after install and fenders refabbed. Here is the A-Arms from underneath It included a manual rack and pinion The kit included double adjustable Coilovers and 13"Wilwood brakes (overkill?) Still at the shop and has not been on the road yet. I am hoping to go on Road courses with this car this summer. Thanks guys
  9. Hi Everyone, Is this possible - putting an 80-81 AFM on a 76 S30? Someone has stated that there will be fuel pump issues as there is no connection for the fuel pump on the AFM (or something like that)? Any assistance is greatly needed. Or if someone has an AFM for a '76, would be willing to trade for this? Thanks, E
  10. So I had bought an S30 air dam from Japan this past summer but never got around to mounting them to the car until this past winter. I originally got air dam with turn signal cutouts because I was planning on doing front turn signal swap and going for a 240z set, now I'm not so sure. Anyway, upon install I realized that the air dam doesn't come close to the sitting flush against the mounting points near the headlight buckets. At first, I figured it might be because there's extra material on bottom of the mouth of the air dam but I assume that even after cutting it it still wouldn't sit flush on the mounting surface anyway. Additionally it seems as if the vertical faces on the inside of the turn signal cut outs aren't long enough to sit flush with the inner most edge of the mounting surface. Also when you have one side of the air dam seated flush along the fender lip, the other side is pushed away from it, which leads me to believe that the air dam's overall size is too narrow. Am I wrong in assuming that the 240z and late 280z air dams are similar in nature? I'm very close to just purchasing a fiberglass 280z air dam and redoing it in carbon. Apologies for the lack of light in the photos, I was doing this at about 11 at night.
  11. Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
  12. From the album: New Parts

  13. Hello everyone I'm looking to swap my current not running l28 for a RB20DET do any one of you know where I can buy a complete swap. I live in the vacaville CA. I'll really appreciate any help.
  14. Edit: I just realized this topic already exists and is in the correct section.
  15. My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
  16. My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
  17. This is not a how to,It is what I have done. Mesuring the 240 rack I came up with 24.230" from center to center of ball scokets (iner tie rod pivot point) and a travel of 5.125". The pinion is 7.5" from the center of the housing. The Miata rack's I reviewed are from a 92 and 97. The 92 has a vavle body cast with the gear case and is held togeather with C-clips. This makes it harder to modify. The 97 has a vavle housing bolted to the gear case and the end cap screws into the housing. This is what I will cover here. The Miata rack is 26.040"center to center of ball scokets with a travel of 4.704". The pinion is 8.75" from the center of the housing. Ball scoket threads are 17x1.0MM RH. Center of ball scoket to mating face of rack is (including lockwasher) .740".The travel is limited by ball scokets contact with the housing. Removing the ball scokets allows more travel that is now limited by the distance between the fluid lines less the with of the piston inside 5.354"-.287"=5.067" max travel for this rack. Not as much as the 240's 5.125",But with power steering I will go with shorter steering arms to make up for it. To get Center to center of 24.230" I removed 1.812" off the right end of the rack remachined the end with the exception of the lenght of the small OD witch was shortened to .25". This aera and the vent hole must be polished to prevent seal damage. The housing was cut down 1.582" on the right side and remachined. The thread is 40x1.0MM RH, I used 1.575"x24TPI RH (My lathe is english) A new shorter end cap was made alowing an extra .385" travel. It stops the piston befor it blocks the fluid port on the left. Using a face pin spaner insted of a hex alowes more of the housing to be left in place for the rubber mount. This made up for cutting less off the housing than the rack. On the left end of the housing a counter bore 1.5" DIA x.150"deep alowing the ball scoket to travel inside the housing,and the piston to travel to the edge of the right fluid port. The tie rod's were cut down 2.25" and threaded 12x1.25MM RH. Miata outer tie rod's will be used. I now have a rack with the same center to center as the 240z, and a travel of 5.067". Other problems to address will be the pinion is now 6.562" from the center of the housing (15/16" closer to the motor), steering shaft and mounting made.
  18. I started doing a swap into my 240z about 4 months ago im slowly moving forward. i got the engine with custom engine mounts and the transmission in with custom mounts. i got my engine from my 92 eagle talon tsi fully built. just got tired of not being able to drive it on the street because of the setup/braking transmissions. so me and my father in law were planning on building a z either way and putting a sr20det into it. but his plans changed and wasn't able to do it. so he gave me the 240z. so with my parts i had at home and the race 4g63 i really wanted to do this swap so i looked into what i need to make a rwd setup for a 4g63. so first step i bought a custom bellhousing to mate a r154 to 4g63. second step i made the engine mounts and transmission mounts. the engine sits in there like it was made for a z. lol then i started working on the intake manifold which i just made a flange and welded it to the other side of the manifold. next step was making sure my gt35r will fit rotated and it actually fit really nice so now im even more excited on getting this project done!!! pictures coming soon
  19. I've bought a number of vehicles in my time, but I'm looking for specific advice here. Here's what I have: 1. 72 240z 2. n42 l28 with SU carbs (x2) 3. 4speed transmissions (x2) It needs a radiator, all the hard lines, pedals, rear brakes, seats, and harnesses before it can move itself around. Because of that, I started looking for a parts donor for all the little stuff, to get the ball rolling. I happened to find a 280z with an l28et in it and a couple manual transmissions attached. It has side skirts and bumper covers, which kind of concern me, and the engine wiring is incomplete. None of that concerns me much, but my previous experience with early Nissan EFI does. I haven't seen a reliable, effective l28et using the stock engine management. Therefore, the plan for this car would be to plop one of my SU-fed l28's in it and put the l28et on a stand as the more serious build for my 240z. Here's the question of the day: Aside from the obvious doglegs, frame rails, battery tray, engine rotation, brake line condition, etc ... what dealbreakers should I look for tonight?
  20. Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
  21. Just wanted to throw this out there. Which would be the best s30 model to invest in? What seems to make the most money? or get the most attention? Is there a good year or engine size that came out and everyone went 'That's the one to have' Quite ofter the very early cars seem to be the ones people want to collect? Quite often the company sorted out all the problems and by the end the cars were the best of the lot! Take the e-type for instance though, and the early 3.8 roadster series is a GOD and the later v12 is a train wreck in my opinion. I am new to the Z world though and just wanted to know what people thought?
  22. Hi Everyone! I'm new to the forum and looking to buy a 240z. However, I do not have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars. I've been reading and reading and it seems like when looking for a Z, the number one thing I keep reading is to avoid rust as much as possible. I found a 1973 240z for sale locally and wanted some advice on this car. It definitely has rust but I have no idea how much is repairable. I have about a $30k budget, but I'd like to spend about $5-8k for the car and then budget for a minor restoration (get it in good running condition, paint, wheels, and an interior clean up). I am not a mechanic in the least and would be relying on a local mechanic to do a majority of the work. Here is what the seller told me: I'm not in a hurry to get a Z and can afford to take my time to get the right one. I thank you in advance, any/all help is appreciated. ad: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/5132503075.html pics: http://imgur.com/a/5jFXg
  23. Saw this on my facebook page this morning and thought I'd share, enjoy! https://youtu.be/Bm550FcIs3g
  24. Hey guys here's my Z I picked up saturday! This is in addition to my dads project Z which is getting the full AZC susp. and other crazy stuff- this will be a little more modest as I don't have that kinda money to throw at this car hahaha 1973 240z, odo says 26,XXX so who knows how many miles. PO put what look like Konig rewinds? with new tires, 280z front brakes, and some poly bushings front and rear. lights/air/signals work which is nice. Covered in what appears to be black primer but body is very straight and frame rails, under hatch, and under body are essentially rust free which is why i jumped on this car. Car isn't running that great but I think most of that could be optimized by tuning the carbs. My other car is an '82 242 turbo so I'm not too familiar with carbs, better start learning. plans include: coils (either GC weld in or Megan weld in from mckinney motor sports) and camber plates finish off poly bushings where needed adjustable TC/LCA adjustable RLCA zg flares resized jdm wheels- longchamps, equip 01/03, ssr mk1/2/3, etc imsa 3 piece tail front airdam future motor swap Saving up funds from my summer job so progress should start in the coming week or two. Adrian
  25. hey guys I currently have a stock 76 280Z and i was wondering if it would be possible to get 16x9 with a 15 offset on without the use of flares ( not a huge fan of flares ) im pretty sure i would need to get my fender rolled but i still need some more knowledge on this. If i could fit them what about tire sizes and etc ? Also i may lower the car with eibach springs in the next couple of months will i still be good without the flares then ? thank you for any help
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