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Found 63 results

  1. I recently acquired a late model FS5W71B 5-speed that supposedly came out of a 280ZX. It definitely has the right bellhousing bolt pattern, the single ear exhaust hanger, the reverse check plate, and the tall ears for the shifter. I've put it in 5th and counted input shaft to output shaft ratios, and confirmed it's the .745:1 5th gear. Based on the research I've done on this site and others it sounds like it should bolt in just fine, but I need to make sure I use the pressure plate and throw-out bearing out of either one or the other and not "mix and match". I have a completely new clutch/PP/TOB (Exedy) that I had bought for my 4 speed, and am guessing that it should be OK in the 5 speed? Can anyone confirm this? Also, the breather has broken off flush with the case. Any advice on removing the stub? The 5-speed came with a slave cylinder, should I use that one or my 4-speed's, or is there no difference? Looking at this web link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I do have the weird oblong shifter (bottom picture, right side) from the 5 speed. Does anyone have any idea what that internal spring is supposed to do in relation to the bushings? Is it one of those push-down to engage reverse features? Finally, this transmission only has one electronic sensor installed, up near the front (Reverse switch I believe), and nothing else. There looks like maybe something should be in the rear, and possibly got broken off. I need to do more cleanup in that area to be sure. I downloaded a copy of the '83 FSM from Xenon and the MT chapter shows 4 sensors! (Reverse switch, Top Gear Switch, O.D. Gear Switch, and Neutral switch.) In all the pictures of these transmissions I have found on line I have never seen 4 switches installed on the side of these transmissions. Does anyone know what the deal is on what reality appears to be VS what the FSM is calling out? In my picture the 5-speed is on the left, the 4-speed is on the right, The shifter with all the tape around it is the oblong one out of the 5-speed. The boss that is up from the tailshaft on the right of the center casting part line (red arrow pointing to it) is full of crud and I suspect where the neutral switch should be installed. Is there ANYTHING that anyone can advise me on in regards to making this swap successful? Pitfalls? "Gotchyas"? "As long as you are doing this you may want to..."? Thanks!
  2. Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale down in San Diego. I made the 4 hour round trip the next day and bought the Jig with the sole purpose of making the cross members for the community. I am one guy with a Jig and the resources to REPRODUCE these cross members Just as John designed! These will be MADE TO ORDER and will be low production numbers to insure a QUALITY product. So Just as I came across John you have now come across me. They will come as raw metal for ease of welding with the original instructions. YES these can be bolted in by drilling holes through the rails and cross member. Price $350 a unit plus shipping to your door step. Happy building! These are made for OEM 2jzgte engine mounts. People have used These for 1jzgte,vvti,GE swaps but may of had to swap out mounts. The 4bolt pattern is the same however the mount brackets vary. Message me for orders. Instagram----- Mike321go Facebook----- Mike Garcia
  3. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  4. I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
  5. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Alrighty, so after doing some reading, LOTS of reading, I have decided I am developing an end all, be all ultimate super 8.8 swap. The key features of THIS setup are as follows. -bolt on 2015 mustang hub assembly. No more $$$$ stub axles prone to breaking. -bolt on 2007 subaru coilover strut, buy cheap or buy ultra nice, entirely up to you. -bolt on s30 rear lower control arms... again use stock, or nice pieces like Arizona Z car etc, your choice. -will have stock 2015 mustang brake mounting points. We're talking disc brakes with built in parking brake in the caliper, and take off brakes for less than $200. There is a plethora of brake available for these cars, including Baer brakes drag setup that lets you use 15 inch wheels for sticky slicks on drag nights. -3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 or 4.09 gears And limited slip torsen differentials for $262 to $700 dollars for complete low mileage units. Super 8.8 much stronger than the 8.8 of yesteryear. -800 hp 930 cv axles COMPLETE for $1,299 for the pair. 34 spline into the diff and 32 at the hub. No more stub axles, companion flanges, or custom diff axle stubs or adapter needed. This price was quoted to me today from the "Driveshaft shop". I contacted them about custom length 2015 mustang axles and that's the price they gave me. -rebuildable cv joints, you only have to buy the custom axles once, and rebuild them as needed for much much cheaper. This setup could easily be adapted to use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 but that would require asking the driveshaftshop to make you custom 31 spline axle stubs instead of the 34 spline ones they include in the $1299 price. This is something I am building for myself. But if anyone wants some I will gladly make extras. I'm just blown away at the prices of things for our Z cars, and decided to bring something to market that would potentially benefit the guys who want something more than oddball custom for stupid money. Aside from the custom length 930 cv axles EVERYTHING is off the shelf cheap and strong parts. Cheap brakes, cheap bearing hubs, cheap differentials, cheap limited slip. And so on. Also, I am designing a front disc brake setup as well. The idea is to use all 4 disc brakes off a 2015 mustang for balanced and affordable braking. It'll require a 17 or 18 inch wheel, but the guys running 800hp turbo is engines or 2jz swaps are usually already there anyway... If you have any better suggestions for a strut I'm open to ideas.
  6. When i realized my 240z project was too rusty under all the bondo to bother i was bummed out. When my 300zx motor started to sound like a washing machine full of rocks i was ready to give up on life. When my boss told me i needed to get my junk cars out of the shop, I completely lost my mind and offered him $2000 for "everything i need to make it move" out of the various salt water flooded mustangs in the shop. We restored flooded cars and shipped them over seas btw. Note the giant pile of wires!
  7. Hello all, I'm pondering doing a gearbox upgrade as I have everything out of the car for my restomod and my 5-speed gearbox is "missing" 5th gear. The car is a 73 240z Europe edition and I believe I have the FS5C71B gearbox mounted in the car. Searching around I found recommendations of the FS5W71C swap from the 180SX, 200SX, and 240SX. I can find plenty of rather low mileage FS5W71C gearboxes for sale so that is not a problem. I read the following guide http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm and it is highlighted that you need the FS5W71B bell housing. Question is -> Has anyone had any experience using the FS5C71B bell housing for this swap rather than the FS5W71B? Cheers, Erik
  8. 280KA

    KA Mounting Question

    Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
  9. ISPKI

    280z 302 sbf swap

    Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  10. CumminZ

    Cummins 6.7 swap

    I've had this idea since I was a little kid to put a 6.7 liter Cummins in a 240 and or 260 I just want to know if anybody thinks it can be done I wanna try to keep it fairly stock looking so no 2 feet front end extension's besides being heavy in the front end really heavy could it be done?
  11. crazyoctopus

    I hate my 4.44 clutch type

    Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.
  12. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that seems to have fixed the problem. I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  13. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  14. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  15. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  16. Johnbian

    Ecoboost swap

    This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  17. Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 81 l28et (all stock) swap into my 74 260z. My harness was missing the 6 pin ignition harness. I wired the correct yellow/white stripe wire (3) to my ignitor. Other prong on ignitor has its own switched 12v. The yellow wire (2) on the harness side has switched 12v. And finally the supposedly black ground wire (3) on my harness is cut and i can not for the life of me find the wire . If someone can tell me where this wire goes or what prong on the computer plug it connects to. Thank you 74 260z 73 240z
  18. Hello all! This is actually my first forum post, as I have been lurking quite a bit. Please let me know if I have posted this in the wrong place. I am currently in the midst of a 240z restomod, with a remarkably clean shell out in the yard. I have solidifed the plan to put a RB25DET in it in the foreseeable future, as the charm of the RB engines has quite a hold on me Now the kicker is, I'm on a tight budget, being in high school and soon college. I want to begin to build the car and get the internals working before I drive it over to a paint shop to get a nice finish (it is currently primered). My initial thought was to go with the RB right off the bat, however this would result in the car being off the road and in the shop for much longer than I can stand, as well as be a huge task for a newbie mechanic. My current thought is to purchase a good ol' L28 and a 5 speed tranny for use until the car looks and moves how I want, then RB later when money is not as tight. Another reason is that I love the feel of the L series with a passion and want to get to know the engine before moving to bigger and better things. Is this a reasonable plan or will I sink too much money into an engine I plan to replace anyways for it to be worth it?
  19. I've never seen a thread where someone documented how hawks mounts actually mount up and are installed. So I took a bunch of pics when I did mine for all to enjoy. Chassis Mounts Here's how the mounts look in your hand. I'll explain what each location really does as we move along. And here is the back of the plate that you must weld onto the frame. As you can see, you must clearance the frame in order for the plate to site flush again your frame rails. But before we get into that, lets see how we locate the bracket (front to back). So here is the mount just resting on the frame rail, without the backing plate, You can see now that the lower location of the bracket lines up perfectly with the lower control arm bolt. Now all you have to do is loosen the LCA bolt, remove the nut, and thread the bolt into the bracket (yeah its threaded down there). Once you have it threaded in and snugged (not tight), you've got it located front to back. So then I attached the backing plate to the bracket and swung it back into place on the frame rail. Obviously the backing plate wont sit flush until you clearance the frame. So now, mark the front and back of the backing plate on the frame like so. Now remove the backing plate from the main bracket, also remove the main bracket from the LCA bolt. Place the backing plate on the frame and mark the hole locations. Note that they will be off because you still cant set the bracket flush. So here are my marks. Let me save you some time and suggest that you cut the frame like the pic below. I tried counterboring the holes to make room for the tacked on nuts, but its harder to get the position correct. Notching the frame is easier and much faster. Now you can check to see if the bracket will sit flush. It might not sit perfectly flush, but pretty close. Heres how mine looked. If its good enough for your taste, put the main bracket on the LCA bolt and bolt it back to the backing plate. This will ensure that when you weld it, it is in fact correctly positioned. You probably want to go ahead and grind off the paint on the frame as well, I dont have a pic of that but you get the idea. Now your ready to weld. Just for reference, the side of the frame rail is twice as thick as the top. So you can get a little more heat into that side. Here's my ugly flux core madness, but it will get the job done. The second one turned out much prettier after I found a rhythm. And here is the finished product. Engine Mounts The mounts on the motor are fairly straightforward but I figured I'd show them for documentation purposes. Here is where the original mount goes. And here is the backing plate for the new Hawks mount. Dont put that lower right bolt in though, that comes later with the actual mount. And here is it all bolted together. At this point, I dropped the motor in to position the trans mount. I'll write more on that in the Trans Mount section. Here, its just to show you how the motor sits in the bay.
  20. krispy0101

    Ls1 in a 280z??

    Hello! i have seen multiple videos where people have engine swapped a 280z with an Ls1 from a corvette! If i were to buy an engine and transmission from ebay or craigslist, how hard is this swap to do and what parts are essential? i have looked on other forums and haven't found much on the topic. Thanks for any replies!
  21. Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
  22. Hello fellow datsunites. I'm looking for some insight on how your rb motors mount up. I'm looking to fabricate some mounts for mine but I wanna see how some of yours sit, even if it's a off the shelf kit. I just need them for reference and brain storming. What I have is a full square tube chassis car, I also have a fully built rb25. The motor was a previous 300zx swap so it came with the mounts. I plan on adapting those mounts to work with my application. I wanna set the motor back as far as possible, even if that means not mounting it to the cross member. I also wanna see how your pans hang in relation to the crossmember, any help is appreciated. I have searched for pictures or threads on this topic with no avail. I'm confident in my fabrication skills, I just wanna get some ideas and maybe we can all brainstorm. Thanks, Devin
  23. Hello everybody first i send a greeting to all and grateful from the beginning of any support can provide me I am about to build a 1970 Datsun 240Z and I would like to make a change (SWAP) from the beginning many people told me that SR20DET is one of the best engines for this change because of its low cost and accessibility of parts But my question is what i would need to change when i make the swap? example: * Engine * Transmission * rear diff * driveshaft * axles Which would be also the best SR20DET to put (s13 / s14 / s15) and which transmission (5 speed or 6 speed) i will like to go into the 300-350 hp again any help that any one can offer I will be grateful i 'm putting together a dream that I've always had and it's good to hear people who have tips that may help regards joe
  24. newmember

    sr20 Fueling

    Hello everyone, i had a question regarding the sr20det swap into the s30 chassis more specifically a 280z. What needs to be done so that the egnine can get enough fuel for about 250-300 crank horsepower reiably? Getting a fuel cell isnt really an option since i plan to daily this car in the future. I was just curious what everyone else was using in terms of fueling in their ka/sr swaps.
  25. I haven't posted here in forever it seems like. A lot of you guys have yet to be introduced to the green Z unless you've seen it on Facebook. We picked it up actually to only rob the fenders from for the red one but I've ended up falling in love. It's a hardtop car whereas the red one has a sunroof. I attempted to make a new headliner for it where the factory one was torn up. After that not much else has happened except for locating all the rust areas which, on this car, aren't actually that bad. It has been garage kept for the last couple years that I know of which has led to mostly only the floor pans being shot. the rocker panels are decent but could use some patching and a few areas in the door jam area that need some attention. As far as engine goes I've resorted back to the 2jz I have sitting around. Still working on mounts for it and am currently gathering parts, or rather money to buy parts, to start rebuilding it. Nothing spectacular out of it but maybe some GTE internals If my engine builder friend has them. Stock head for now but maybe some day switch to either a 1jz for a 1.5jz build or straight to a non vvti 2jzgte head. These are all just dreams right now and I think I'll be more than happy with a stock 2jzge in a 2500lb car. As of now all I've done is painted the valve covers, clean the block a little, and have sourced some more of the parts I'll be needing. A crankshaft from an sc300 and also a wiring harness and ecu from an SC. After that all that's left is a rebuild kit with gaskets and bearings and such. Also gonna go ahead and replace the water and oil pumps while the engine is out. Suspension I'm leaning towards the T3 DIY coilover kit or maybe just some of the mr2 struts with stiffer springs. Wheels will be some of the diamond racing wheels for now but in the end is a secret . Let's just say I'll be looking into doing a 5 lug swap soon as well. Still looking into a cd009 transmission swap but I may just throw a w58 on the 2jz and get it in the car. Maybe I'll actually be able to provide updates for this thread pretty quick. I enrolled in my local technical college for their electrician/ commercial wiring class and will be done about summer time next year. I'm kinda excited about that but who needs eduaction when you have a Z car. LMAO. Thanks guys
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