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Old May 26th, 2009, 12:11 AM   #1
ozzinc
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Talking like kid Dynomat extreme 240z

I have finally finished dynamating the car with dynamat extreme, 2 layer process.
I have already started installing the 5 point harness and im also running the wires for my car audio system and the lines and hoses for my boost gauge and my nos bottles
the car audio arrangement is going to be a real killer when I am finished, I have about another 6 hours of work on that to be completed.
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File Type: jpg 240z suspension and interior 031.jpg (984.2 KB, 419 views)
File Type: jpg 240z suspension and interior 034.jpg (853.0 KB, 345 views)
File Type: jpg 240z suspension and interior 036.jpg (812.2 KB, 318 views)
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Old May 26th, 2009, 10:03 AM   #2
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Looks good, just wanted to note that you really should try to take the mat up the firewall as much as you can as well as cover the entire rear deck of the car, LOTS of sound coming from behind you.
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Old May 26th, 2009, 12:11 PM   #3
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im going to go up a little more on the firewall since you mentioned that the engine bay could get a little noisy, as for the rear deck ive got that in check,
and got the matting around the spare tire cavity and wheel well area.
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Old May 26th, 2009, 04:31 PM   #4
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Question Firewall too hot for dynamat???

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Originally Posted by BillZ260 View Post
Looks good, just wanted to note that you really should try to take the mat up the firewall as much as you can as well as cover the entire rear deck of the car, LOTS of sound coming from behind you.
Doesn't it get too hot on firewall for the glue on the Dynamat? Isn't there something else that should be used in a high heat area?
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Old May 26th, 2009, 04:42 PM   #5
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There is high heat dynamat that can be used for under hoods and of course the firewall sections. Looks nice ozzinc
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Old May 26th, 2009, 09:39 PM   #6
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Looks great so far. I did the same basic thing after POR-15 coating my floors. I've got one layer of B-Quiet on the floors, inside the doors and on the wheelwells/strut towers.
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Old May 26th, 2009, 11:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Looks great so far. I did the same basic thing after POR-15 coating my floors. I've got one layer of B-Quiet on the floors, inside the doors and on the wheelwells/strut towers.
Thanks guys, im running all the wires for my audio system and then the lines for the nos and boost gauge, I hope that it makes a differents and keeps some of the road noise out.
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Old October 28th, 2009, 10:34 AM   #8
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I used two of the large cases of Dynamat Extreme for the interior, not counting the doors which required an extra 15 linear feet. Made a huge difference in sound and heat. But, at $150 a case, I have close to 400 bucks invested.
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Old October 28th, 2009, 10:51 AM   #9
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If anyone is interested, here are a few pics of my installation.
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File Type: jpg P3260141.jpg (692.6 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg P3260138.jpg (953.0 KB, 119 views)
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Old October 28th, 2009, 10:54 AM   #10
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^Holy crap! I'm going to be doing the same thing soon....looks like funnnn
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Old October 28th, 2009, 12:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzinc View Post
I have finally finished dynamating the car with dynamat extreme, 2 layer process.
I have already started installing the 5 point harness and im also running the wires for my car audio system and the lines and hoses for my boost gauge and my nos bottles
the car audio arrangement is going to be a real killer when I am finished, I have about another 6 hours of work on that to be completed.
The Dynamat stuff looks great, but it doesn't seem like something you'd want for a track car - I'm assuming from the mention of a 5 point harness that you plan to track it, or is that for looks?
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Old October 28th, 2009, 02:23 PM   #12
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i did the same thing with 2 bulk packs of Extreme focusing on the back for road noise... not a super fun install though
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Old October 31st, 2009, 10:37 PM   #13
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My car is 99 percent street car so I did it to reduce road noice and heat. I is super quiet inside the car now and I really happy with it!
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Old November 1st, 2009, 07:33 AM   #14
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I did something similar to a classic car 25 years ago. There can be a lot of issues with an install like that.

Your number one problem is moisture entrapment. The original factory sound insulation is a large part of why these cars rusted out in the first place. The extra mat is only making things worse.

The other issue is weight. That is a HUGE!!! penalty to pay in a sports car who's number one advantage is light weight.
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 08:57 AM   #15
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laying down a few coats of por15 before the install would take car of the moister issue. as far as the weight thing goes. if its a street car than weight isn't THAT much of an issue and even that much dynomat. to me the quiter ride would be worth it. i plan on doing the same to mine next summer.

hey jr did you do the roof aswell?
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 08:40 PM   #16
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so I was thinking about this since its all cut out anyone try it.
http://quietride.com/
They had a a both at the Reno swap meet ( thats now in Sacramento)
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 11:33 PM   #17
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Thanks for the link. Has anyone here used the Quiet Ride stuff?
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Old November 3rd, 2009, 12:07 AM   #18
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might be doing this next year
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Old November 3rd, 2009, 10:54 AM   #19
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I didn't do the roof. I figured most of the noise and heat would come directly from underneath me. I guess I could still go back and do the roof, but I am happy with the results.
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Old November 3rd, 2009, 12:35 PM   #20
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Firewall Insulator at Quiet Ride are real nice are molded to fit the firewall. Said they will send a sample if you call them. they come with the pre drilled holes or you can cut your own out. (for the RHD guys). they are about more then the ones at MSA but I think they would work better.
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