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Found 328 results

  1. Hello all, I'm a new member to both HybridZ and also Datsun universe! The car is a 1973 240z with the original L24 & 4 Speed which is currently and running and driving (roughly) project. The car appeared at it's first car show this last month for Street Machine Nationals. My father and I are attempting to do a full rebuild (motor, transmission, suspension, interior & exterior). Luckily my father was a body tech for some 10 years or so and has experience with working on old American v8's from his younger years. Hopefully some of that experience will help with the process of getting this car to our end goal. Also if anyone lives in the Minneapolis area. I would certainly appreciate having someone in the area who knows about Datsuns/shops/parts sourcing etc. Thank you all, Austin
  2. NylonAdmiral

    Wanted: 240z Rear Suspension Turrets

    Hi, I'm looking for a set of rear turrets from a 240z. Perhaps you have a rusted out or crash damaged car? If so I'm looking for the turrets to be cut out out. I've attached an image highlighting the panels I'm after. Thanks.
  3. DUDE

    SPOT WELDING

    Hello I have never welded before and was hoping that you all can tell me if I should buy a "mig welder" and attempt to spot weld my entire car myself? If so any ideas of the most inexpensive machine and possible advice on how to learn to do myself?
  4. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  5. This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366
  6. Just bough this BEAUTIFUL 1971 240Z from Texas without even seeing the car in person. I'm amazed How clean this car is. Frame is straight and rust is extremely minimal. All the regular rust areas are clean! I have a rebuilt LT1 and 4l60e with zero miles, planning on selling the 4l60e and getting a T56. Anyway Here is the car, I started stripping it for paint. Will pull drive train tomorrow after I get my cherry picker back from my friend. He borrowed it 2 years ago
  7. 1973_240z_

    L24 build, I need help!

    I have a spare L24 out of one of my 73 240's I'm looking to build up a bit. I'm currently attending an automotive school and I have access to pretty well equipped machine shop. My idea here is to find out I can do with my E88 and the L24 bottom end, possibly different pistons if they're necessary. I plan on utilizing ARP hardware throughout the engine. I have a 4bbl and azc intake mani laying around, as well as dual downdraft webers...I'm strongly considering ditching both of these setups to fund a set of triples for this engine. I'm pretty much just looking to see what kind of power and rpm I can get out of my L24, drivability is not a big concern at all. I'm just not quite sure where to start with the top end. I'd like to make power as high in the rpm range as this head and bottom end will allow, and I don't know what cam specs would best suit this engine. I don't know a whole lot about milking power out of these engines, but I'm here to learn. Any input would be greatly appreciated. -Josh
  8. spitsnaugle

    LS Swap Parts

    Location: Dayton Ohio LS engine potentially for sale soon. MegaSquirt MS3pro plug and play LS wiring harness and ECU. SOLD Hawks LS 240z 1-7/8" long tube headers. SOLD These are the best long tube headers available for the 240z LS combo. Talked with hawks and had these the collectors angled to fit an auto trans! (will also fit manual). Likely the only long tube headers that'll fit an auto trans! Holley ULTRA XP Carb, Intake and MSD ignition $800 (total cost was $1400) (bolted together, but never used) Holley ULTRA XP 750CFM Jegs: 510-0-80803BKX LSx carb'd intake + MSD ignition box Jegs kit: 510-300-132K dual feed fuel line 700r4 Transmission (Complete) $1200 ($2k invested -- I may keep this, trying to fit into next car) Jegs Performance 700r4 Transmission (works with LS) high speed torque converter. Flywheel The 240z: $6,000 SOLD Some Photos: https://imgur.com/F0UYyJj <NEW 5/1 exterior https://imgur.com/vCrYBpy <NEW 5/1 rear underside https://imgur.com/iRfImPN <NEW 5/1 front wheel https://imgur.com/9vmuuca <NEW 5/1 rear wheel https://imgur.com/J73BiMQ <NEW 5/1 hatch floor https://imgur.com/7ifnO56 <NEW 5/1 hatch area/floor https://imgur.com/rpiPVyM <NEW 5/1 hatch area https://imgur.com/3B4Be8p <NEW 4/28 dash with speedhut speedo https://imgur.com/HPFDhPv <NEW 5/1 dash area (mind the dust) https://imgur.com/OLKoOXj <NEW 5/1 suspension https://imgur.com/JcdBphQ <engine bay photo https://imgur.com/8gYOIWM <exterior https://imgur.com/d3HMGvw <currently in the garage https://imgur.com/EITVYbh <under side floor passenger https://imgur.com/tFPdcCG <under side floor driver side https://imgur.com/nxPbw8U <exterior with air dam up (this photo is older, but nothing has changed) 1971 Datsun 240z. INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING Hoke Performance LS motor swap mount kit. -- for auto or manual trans. 280zx brake booster wilwood master cyl. new classictube.com brake lines front to back stainless braided fuel lines, aeromotive regulator Tanks Inc. poly fuel tank, and fuel pump, Radiator: champion 3 row + custom an fittings deka etx20l battery with braille battery bracket Speedhut GPS speedometer, with high beam and turn signal markers (photo here) speedhut tach and alternator gauge and gauge faces, Spare dash harness included. Marugen Shoukai Flares (best quality I could obtain) Wheels: Rota RB-R 17x9" and 17x9.5" Hyper Black with Polished Lip. Tires: Cooper RS3-S 245/17 and 275/40/17 I've cut out the rust and welded in new metal at doglegs, battery tray, and hatch/tail light area, it really just needs painted. Engine bay painted in bmw deep sea blue. Engine bay/triangulated strut bracing added from firewall to struts. Spare tire well removed (for new fuel tank) and custom bead rolled sheetmetal replaced it. triangular bracing at rear struts bad dog frame rails (not installed) Interior is currently stripped, but stored in garage. Most carpet was thrown out--Its cheap and easy to replace.xenon flex urethane air dam camaro fender Vents behind rear tires: (see bjhines car for reference) hatch panel z source Arizona
  9. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
  10. I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts
  11. I have purchased the vintage air 2 for my 70 to 240 Z I was hoping someone knows the specs/measurements for the brackets to install the unit under the dashboard I cannot weld so I’m trying to just put together steel brackets and put them together to fit but I could use some help with how far up and down place it in side to side so I’m not spending an arm and a leg on the brackets. Or if anyone has got extra ones welded I’m willing to purchase them ?😀
  12. So I'm beginning to fix some things on my series1 240Z #5837. One of the most obvious issues is the horn button. The black plastic behind it was 40 years old and cracked and crumbling to the point that no amount of glue or Zipties was going to hold that button on. So talking with a buddy of mine, he suggested maybe I could print up a fix. He gave me another busted up button to tear apart, so I did and created a new insert to replace the busted up 40 year old crappy plastic. I printed this out of ABS and worked it into my old button after removing the old plastic. I made it about 3mm wider OD to ensure a snug fit. It can be glued in place with rubber cement, but I'm not certain that's necessary, as it's fairly tight. It fits well on 240Z's and I can print it in about any color (not that you'd see it). Here it's printed in white so you can see the detail. It snaps on just the same as the original did, but ABS is a little more forgiving. If there's a market, I was thinking of selling the printed inserts for $20 ea. It's very interesting to think of recreating various classic S30 parts that are difficult to come by, especially NOS. Let me know if there's any other parts you might like to see recreated. Phar
  13. DUDE

    VINTAGE AIR CONDITIONING

    Hi peeps I have an 72 240z and I have purchased an Vintage air Gen 2 air conditioning system, but I do no have the bracket that will hold the condenser in place that will also give it tension! So I am hoping someone can give me a path on where I can purchase a reasonably priced bracket for this system?
  14. Hello Everyone, I bought a 1971 Datsun 240z, about 2 years ago as my first project car. The more I started to dig into the car, the more I wanted to repair and improve it. Initially I was just planning on getting it running and using it while slowly upgrading and repairing it. I ended up tearing it down to the bare chassis, mounting it on a rotisserie and media blasting it. After I media blasted it, I decided to replace the floors and upgrade the frame rails with baddog frame rails. I sat down and thought about what I wanted the car to be and I came up with a ton of ideas, but ended up narrowing it down into one vision. The vision is this(nicknamed ProjectWhiteNoiseZ): My vision is inspired by modern Nissan Nismo styling, but it will be powered by a 2JZ-GTE with a cd009 transmission. I have gone through every part and media blasted and powder coated it or upgraded it with something better. Doing all of this, inspired my brother to buy a crashed 2008 Mustang GT and the current plan is to complete our cars by August/September '18. I live in Colorado and he lives in Pennsylvania, so I'll be road tripping the 240z 1700miles each way when complete to meet him at a track in Pennsylvania and race. If you're interested to see the work and follow our journey to complete our cars over the next few months, we have a YouTube channel, Facebook, and Instagram where we're documenting our builds. Any comments on suggestions for YouTube video improvements are appreciated. We will answer any questions you have. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJt7v6VEHBqNPweO_cZ1guw PBB Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectbuildbrothers/ PWNZ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectwhitenoisez/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProjectBuildBrothers/
  15. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  16. Need a 1973 headlight combo switch, im in nj so can drive or factor that for shipping Mine crapped out, i tried cleaning that little box with the tabs that controls the headlights and tail lights but the issues was with those little caps that cover the springs in the mechanism they were totally messed up and that whole box is kind of dead.... looking for either entire assembly or just the little headlight box with the rocker switches and those 2 springs with the little caps. Attached a pic of the box and the little caps over the springs, let me know what you have! car isnt really entirely drivable with out this! thank you!
  17. Hi I am wondering if anyone would be willing to do a purchase inspection, or know someone that does them in Bakersfield. Also I would like to know the average cost of a PPI. Thanks
  18. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  19. I have a 1970 240z. I aquired a 1973 240z front bumper that has a different setup/bracket. I do not have the arm/rod brackets for the 73 or the "L" brackets for the 70. What do i need to install it on the 70 z? If i buy the early L brackets will they work or do i need to remove the U shape bracket (that looks like the rear) that is bolted inside the bumper and utilize or drill a new hole on the bumper? If the L bracket will work, i am willing to buy them, but didnt want to until i consulted with someone who is more knowlegeable on the issue. Picture: Early on top, 73 on bottom. I have the bottom and the left bolt seems to line up and so does the hole on the bumper behind the bracket stud according to the picture but i have not done any measuring. NOTE: I will also move the guard to a more outer position since the early z's had the guard next to the light bucket and the 73's had them about 4 inches on each side closer to center. In addition, i will have to find an overider that belongs to the early z. the 73 is a shorter bar and will not work.
  20. After finally taking delivery of my 1972 240z from America, it's now appropriate to start a build thread! After being contacted by a fellow forum member with an unfinished project on his hands, money was sent over the interwebs and a few months later, the car arrived in the UK ready for collection. The car was a half finished RB26 swapped top end track car. It stood with the long block sat in the car, and a full Arizona Z Car track package installed. The underside of the car had been shotblasted & a half cage welded in. Most Z parts were included, however would need restoring/replacnig and generally rebuilding. The car from the seller Unknowing what to expect, we turned up with a trailer and loaded her on. The car was pretty much as expected, other than the weather had taken its toll and unforunately most untreated surfaces had succumed to quite a bit of surface rust. It looked a bit sorry for itself, but a quick test with some scotchbright does indicate its very light surface rust only and should come off without too much effort. There was also no steering rack connected which made loading the interesting! The bonnet (hood), windscreen (windshield) and boot lid (trunk/tail gate?) were all strapped down with duct tape which we didn't trust to hold on the motorway. This was not your knock-off chinese crap, obviously soviet-spec adhesives were used in this stuff as it kindly ripped off a majority of the paint when removed! Tucked up in the garage after a long day The intent for this car will be a track/race orientated build whilst retaining road legal status. Wish me luck
  21. Chandler347

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  22. Chathuranga

    Looking for 240Z RHD padel box

    Hey everyone, Any chance of finding a RHD padel box (actually i need 5!) For a 1973 240Z ?
  23. Pac_Man

    Door Issues

    Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man
  24. Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
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