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Found 116 results

  1. 73 260z in NY in need of assistance

    Hi guys. Been a lurker here forever! Picked up a 73 last summer and haven’t had the time to sort it out. Anyone recommend a tech or mechanic in the LI or metro NY area? Car came with triple webbers but seem to be wired up or lined up wrong. If you spray starter fluid, she fires up and sounds pretty damn good. But the throttle and the choke seemed to have been routed at the same line by the previous owner 😑🤨. I own a business and really have not had any time to just sort out the damn thing. Any direction to a trustworthy guy that can take this job on would be much appreciated. -Alex
  2. So over the weekend I finally found a decent 260z to start my build I've been wanting to do since about 2008. Like most z cars it has it's rust and it needs alot of stuff. But I was kind of looking for one with those needs. I don't have a ton of pics yet but I have started a little of the teardown. The second pic of it is after I got it home and into her new home.
  3. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  4. Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
  5. 240z clutch pedal.

    Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  6. Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know
  7. Looking For S30 Whale Tail

    Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
  8. Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  9. Heater blower assembly from 1973 260Z. In good physical condition, no damage or rust, fan spins freely, defroster flap operates smoothly and securely, bellows still soft and pliable. Blower works, but doesn't seem to be pushing air at full force like it should. May be compatible with other years if you have similar plug configuration. Includes the connecting "mini-harness" and cable for defroster flap as depicted. $15 Multiple heating and ventilation bits and pieces. All in good usable shape, moving parts function smoothly. $5 each, or $45 for the lot. Prices do not include shipping. Thanks for looking.
  10. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  11. Will ship any of these parts, shipping included in price! paypal is jcrawford@autodist.com These parts were all taken off my 78 280z 2+2 in good used original working condition for the v8 conversion. * 2+2 4 speed drive shaft with slip yoke and flange $150 *clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir $25 *4spd shifter with nice original Datsun shift knob $80 *Transmission mount bushings good surface rust w/ bolts $30 *Ignition module / computer worked as it should light corrosion on case $40 I will add to the thread as I find more parts in the garage and take pictures. Thanks for viewing!
  12. Hey guys so im having some reoccurring issues with my Z and im ready to burn the car to the ground at this point. So i bought the car almost a year ago and it was converted to just an electrical fuel pump when i got it. the car ran fine for a few months maybe like 5 or 6 i cant remember. Anyways one day the fuel pump started to go out so i replaced it with the K&N pump from MSA and that lasted about one month. So before i ruled that pump was no good i blew out the gas lines replaced all the filters and took a long look into the gas tank with a borescope btw such a fun tool to use. and found nothing out of the ordinary. I even rewired the whole pump putting my own relay in just so i could eliminate the electrical aspect. the pump ended up being bad and i replaced it and put a holley pressure regulator in it. the car runs good at 3 PSI. Well this started about a week ago where on hills in 4th the fuel will cut out. trust me i know exactly what it feels like by now. Now the fuel pressure barely builds past 1 PSI and if i give it gas the pump doesn't build anymore pressure it just uses up the gas in the lines and dies. So im kinda at a loss right now and the only thing i can think of doing is putting a mechanical fuel pump back on and replace the electrical again. Another option for me cuz im pretty sure the SUs arent balanced and i might just do the holley comversion cuz that was part of my plan anyways. PLZ HELP
  13. I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
  14. Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  15. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  16. Hello, This is my first post, but I have been lurking a little for research. I recently found a 260z (claimed 1976, but the door is stamped 6/74?). The sketchy bit is that it has no title and no windows. I have gathered that the windshield is the same as any s30, but the door glass and hatch are different for the 2+2. I haven't bought the car yet, and I wanted to find windows to budget it out first. As a student, my budget is small so I am not afraid to use plexiglass for side windows and the hatch. The issue is I can't find any 2+2 windows, and I was hoping you guys might be able to point me in the right direction. Cheers!
  17. S30 RC Calculator

    Version V1

    38 downloads

    Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct.
  18. Although in the USA and Australia there are a huge amount of Hybrid Z cars, in the UK most S30 chassis cars have rusted away and the rarity of them now means that swapping big power and exotic engines is a rarity. My car is a UK spec 1975 260Z 2+2 that has been painted and welded enough times that it is is far enough from original for me not to worry about the purist route. That and the fact that is it a 2+2! I wanted to start a thread on here for advise from people who have done this many times and hopefully a UK project will be interesting even though I am covering the same ground many people on here already have. I bought a crashed JDM Toyota Soarer over Christmas and stripped it for the engine, fuel tank, looms, gearbox (W58 as it was a converted auto) etc. The original L26 is out and sold and work has started to strip the engine bay of everything so we can sand blast it and begin the engine swap with a view to making it look as clean and factory as possible. I will upload some pictures soon when I have worked out the best way of doing it.
  19. https://youtu.be/30nyGWq4mJQ Here is one of the runs. Got 3rd! Not bad on 6 year old dry rotted tires.
  20. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  21. Spindle Pin Removal Tool S30 NEW!

    Zcardepot.com has the tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/tools/spindle-pin-removal-tool-240z-260z-280z.html
  22. Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
  23. Getting into the Z game

    Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  24. New product: Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z front lower control arms in billet aluminum with adjustable rod ends. High quality parts, made in the USA, everything needed for proper fitment on your S30. $189.00 https://zcardepot.com/suspension/front-suspension/front-lower-control-arm-billet-adjustable-240z-260z-280z.html?search=front+control+arm
  25. Rear differential swap mounting kit for Ford Explorer 8.8 differential into a 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z or 280Z. This is a basic kit for mounting the 8.8 differential into your S30 chassis with no modifications needed to the chassis. The 8.8 differential swap is a good choice when looking for different gearing options, lockers/limited slips and a virtually indestructible differential. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-irs-rear-differential-swap-bracket-kit.html?search=ford Rear Axle related parts: - 8.8 Explorer stub axles 31 spline billet to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/ford-8-8-irs-axles-explorer-style.html?search=ford - 8.8 Pinion Yoke to 1330 U Joint: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/drive-shaft/ford-8-8-rear-differential-pinion-yoke-to-1330-u-joint.html?search=ford - 8.8 Aluminum Rear Cover: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-rear-differential-cover-aluminum.html?search=ford - Outer axles billet chromoly to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html?search=outer+axle - Outer axle chromoly companion flange: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle - Billet Aluminum axle adaptor: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html?search=outer+axle
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