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Found 260 results

  1. Looks like the starter on my 1975 280z is going bad and before looking for a 280z starter I was wondering if there were any upgrades. I found another forum where someone mentions that a 300zx starter fits the 280z but it's an old post and no one ever went into detail or talked or asked about it after that one suggestion. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about doing this, would it just be a straight bolt on? Would it require any kind of rewiring? Should I just stick with a 280z starter? Thanks in advance!
  2. So I have a 1975 280z that if I turn it on and let it sit it idles just fine, but as soon as I press the brakes it starts to idle very roughly and if I hold the brake down long enough without stepping on the gas it eventually just dies. Anyone have any ideas they could maybe help me with on this?
  3. My new 1975 Datsun 280z project!

    So I am new to the forum and I figured I would post to show the process of restoring my new Datsun and hopefully get some help and good tips from other members as I go! I recently bought this and it is my first Datsun! The car was sitting since 1991 before I bought it and right before it was parked it was inspected and serviced and has paperwork to prove it that i found in the car, but the previous owner also left it sitting outside with the spark plugs out and the hood popped open . I have siphoned out any fluid in the holes and it seems to just be some oil with a little bit of rust in it. So over the next few days/weeks I'll be soaking it to try and make it move free. Fingers crossed that the rings will hopefully be OK!
  4. WTB L28 Oil Pan

    Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
  5. LS376/480 4L70E HELP!!!

    MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  6. MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  7. How's it goin? Well I have an issue with my 1977 280z 2+2, stock everything. I have run into the issue of the fuel becoming too hot and I just wanna know what others with the same or in the same general area. Any info/suggestions much appreciated!
  8. Hi my name is Harry and i am in the prosses of buying my first classic car, a 1975 280z. I have kept my head down and been reading a fair amount on diffrent forums about common problems with these cars. I plan on daily driving the 280z as stock untill i have the money to do what i want with it properly. So i was just wondering what are the things that i need to do first to try and keep the old girl as reliable as she can be. Ive read that there is some issues with fule tanks rusting and fule lines getting cloged. Im going to try and have a look in the tank with it still in the car as i dont have a garage at the moment so will find it hard to store parts like fule tanks ect. Obviously if the tank is full of rust then i will just have to remove it and get it sorted. Ive also read that there is a heat soke isue with the fule in the fule rail boiling after shut down of the engine after a few minutes. I dont much fancy getting a fan to cool this down so was wondering if heat rapping the exhaust would help this or i sould jsut get a nice new fule rail. The car i am buying has a very nice chasis with very little / no rust so this shouldnt be a big issue in the short turm. I am planning on a full body sand blast back to bear metal, repare and dammage/rust and respray in the future as well. All of the hoses are proabley ging to be my first job to change as i cant see 40 year old rubber not springing a leak at the worst posible time. I also plan on changing all of the bushing for the suspension soon aswell. My plan is for polly as i dont mind a harsher ride unless there is a reson not to do this. I also want to chage the springs and struts to slightly lower the car, only an inch or so as i think it looks nicer. Is there anything that i have missed or things that i need to do first? Any and all insite would be much appreciated. Apologys if i have spelt anything wrong, there defiantly will be, i just cant spell Second apology is for no pictures at the moment, my phone with the pictures broke and i have lost them. I should, fingers crossed, be getting the car in a month or so now and am getting rather excited. I live in the uk so any pointers to shops to buy parts from here would also be much appreciated as most are based in the us. Come on free trade deal with the us Edit. Almost forgot to say the obviouse, all fluid changes, filters and spark plugs. Do you think i should get new points and spark leads?
  9. L28ET Swap

    Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  10. I just picked up 1975 280z. Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender. The goal for this project is phased project. 1. To run the engine 2. Fix minor rust 3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion 4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap. 5. Paint the car Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...
  11. Hey guys, quick question. I have an L28ET in my car (with MS) and I am upgrading to supra injectors, the 7mgte ones. From what i have researched, they are 440cc and work with a pallnet 11mm rail, which I just ordered from him. I am confused as to what impedance I need. Here's what I currently believe to be true: L28ET injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to make them work. 7M-GTE injectors are also low impedance, and should be used in my system with my current resistor pack. However, all the 7m-gte injectors on eBay (don't worry, not ordering from there) are listed as high impedance. I just don't want to order the wrong injectors, is there anyone who is running the 440cc injectors on an L28ET who can chime in to what their wiring system is? I don't want to order them before I at least have some answer.....There is so much weird and confusing information out there about this stuff. Thanks in advance!
  12. Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
  13. Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tank from the car. What I had found next was a nightmare. Layers upon layers of rust in the gas tank! First thing I did was sloshed around quite a few nuts and bolts with some old gas and banged on it very carefully with a hammer to break some of those rust chips up. I drained what I could of the broken rust pieces and began my search for a cheap alternative for a rust removing chemical. Come to find out, white vinegar works wonders if you submerge and soak rusted metal for a couple days. I got 17 gallons of the stuff for 2$ a gallon at costco because you will want to fill the entire tank to prevent flash rusting on exposed metal. I filled the tank and sealed it all off with duct tape except for the small tube at the very top of the tank so it could breathe the fumes. I let it soak for 3 days like this and I would suggest placing whatever you are going to drain the vinegar into underneath the drain plug BEFORE you fill it because you won't be able to lift it yourself after it is full of 17 gallons, unless you are Hulk Hogan. Once you are satisfied with the amount of time it has soaked(anywhere from 24 hours for minor rust to 3-4 days for caked on rust), unscrew the drain plug and commence draining. After all but about a gallon or so has drained, grab hold of the tank and start rocking it back and forth and 360 degrees, slowly to get all the flakes to drain. You could bang on it with a rubber mallet or hammer again as well. Once it's all drained, take your phone camera and put it on video with the flash on and poke it inside the sending unit hole. You will be amazed looking around at how well the vinegar works. You will see mostly bare metal. Unplug all the holes and allow it to dry for a day or so. I taped an air compressor blower to one of the holes to give it a blow dry for about an hour right after I drained the vinegar. There will be flash rusting and there is nothing you can do to avoid that unless you wipe it clean with a rag right after it has drained, which is impossible with a gas tank. But don't worry the next step will cover that. Now go to your local car parts store and ask for a liquid gas tank liner, any brand will do. Make sure you read the directions and get enough, especially if you want to do 2 coats. They usually come in 1 quart cans that will usually only cover about 12 gallons. The brand I got was this way. For my '75 280z the gas tank is 17.2 gallons so I had to get 2 quarts. Once you are satisfied that your tank has dried completely, it is time to put your first coat on. Look inside your tank and you will see that it has a divider to the skinny part of the tank. For this reason, I plug all the holes except for the sending unit hole on the tall part of the tank and the gas outlet hole on the narrow part of the tank. This allows you to fill both halves without worry of missing a spot with the coat. You need a good funnel for this stuff. Fill the narrow half with one quart first because it takes longer. Then fill the sending unit half with the remaining quart. Plug the remaining holes. Very slowly roll the gas tank around in your arms 360 degrees on all planes for about 15 minutes or until you think every spot has been touched by the good stuff. It's kinda like the consistency of molasses and it dries like a rubber glove so be thorough. After rocking it around on all planes I would let it sit on it's bottom for 5 minutes then on it's side for 5 minutes then on it's top for 5 minutes then on the other side for 5 minutes and back again on the bottom. I did this for an hour or so while I was changing the oil. I wanted to make sure that bare metal would not show. Once you are satisfied, place it on top of some saw horses or an old cooler or something and place one of the liner cans under the drain plug and unscrew it. Remove all plugs so it can dry evenly. On all the small openings, I took my air blower and blew a small amount of air through to make sure the liner didn't plug them. I would highly recommend this. Let it dry for a day. Come back and check to see if it dried evenly. If there are bare spots, do a second coat, if you have enough left over liner. I did anyway. Let it dry for a day and a half just to be safe. This next step isn't necessary but I recommend doing it since you already have the hunk of junk out. Get a can of rust proof spray enamel from your hardware or car parts store. You could get any color you want. I just got black cause I don't know what the paint job will be on the car yet. Tape all the holes, Air blow it free of debris and sand the rusty spots, air blow again, then commence spraying the enamel. Let it dry. Now that the gas tank is complete, check all your filters. My Z had a small filter between the outlet and the fuel pump. When I took it out, it was pack full of rust to the brim. I have looked all over the market and can not find a part to replace this filter. I tapped all of it out and submerged it in vinegar as well. There is a strainer between the fuel pump and the fuel line to the block. I removed that and soaked it in vinegar. I installed a new fuel pump while I had the gas tank out. And there is another larger fuel filter by the engine block under the hood. I just got a new one of those for 20$ and installed it. Once your tank is completely dry, put it all back together. I suppose you could seafoam the system and bleed it if you want to go a step farther. I probably won't since I know the gas tank is good and that is the source of bad gas. I figure any bad stuff that remains will get washed out and burned off in a day of driving. Thanks for reading my first post! Hope it helped!
  14. Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S.
  15. Ignition Coils

    I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  16. As you all can undoubtedly tell I'm new to the forum and decided that I might as well document my build for my own purpose of keeping track of things and organizing my plans and thoughts. This is the first time I've created a build thread for any of my projects so bare with me and don't pile the BS up to high, I'm kinda short and I don't swim to well in the green stinky stuff. I've always loved the look of Zs and I have wanted one for quite sometime. The opportunity has presented itself recently for me to get one from a co-worker who has decided to part with an extra "parts" car that he has a few miles from my house. I checked the VIN tag and it appears to be a '75 280z. The engine and manual trans are in unknown condition and the body is in desperate need of paint and some rust repair, but what neglected S30 doesn't need all of those areas fixed. All of that a side the cost of the car is pulling the LH door for him to install on his '70 240z or find an acceptable replacement for his current door and the car is mine. A couple of days after being told that I can have the car a local classifieds had a fairly complete VK56DE out of a 2005 Armada for free with a spun #4 rod bearing and otherwise pristine internals. The seller included a fairly complete engine wiring harness, injectors, fuel rails, intake, block, heads, internals and oil pan as well (some items are already removed and on the shelf). I've always liked the raspy growl of ITB injections setups but can't stomach the price tag on my salary, but while looking around at a few other VK56 builds on other forums I decided that if I'm going to go thru the all of the fabrication headaches of stuffing the beast in I might as well go big or go home. So I researched some different options using extrudabody, gsxr throttle bodies and a few other motorcycles until I came across some really inexpensive BMW units on ebay. I paid $2 and shipping for 4 throttle bodies in a bulk buy and they arrived last friday, and another one is on it's way with the injector and TPS for under $20. I'm on the look out for some good deals on the remaining three units. These ones have a stock 336cc/min injector vs the vk56 286cc/min from what I've been able to find online, they also have a straight thru 45mm ID and the injector will clip right into the factory VK fuel rail. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the BMW injectors for sure yet, I'm thinking initially I will just install the VK units with a small press fit bushing to reduce the bottom sealing boss to 14mm from 16mm. I already ordered some replacement shaft bushing as they are a known problem for the BMW oilheads and talked to a few friends about linkage and shaft design. I think I can get an 8mm precision stainless shaft to run thru all 4 on each side and then put a cam arm on each bank with a solid link to a torque arm and cable pulley in the center done failry easily. Once I finish getting the adapter plates for the head to throttle body modeled in solid works I'll be able to get a better idea of the specifics. The spun rod and crank need to be addressed first though, but I've got some mad scientist ideas for that in the back of my head too, we'll see what the engine shop machinist has to say first... As far as drivetrain goes I'm still researching and trying to decide what transmission option will be the best in regards to price, ease of conversion, longevity and power handling capabilities. The top two choices currently are a Z32 manual or a CD0009. Differential will initially stay the stock open R200 until I get the bugs of the engine and trans swap all worked out and then as funds and the necessity for stronger parts come into play either an R230 swap of some form or the Ultimat IRS 8.8 that wfritts911 has worked out in the drivetrain section. Just clarify for those still reading this I am well aware of how difficult and intense this swap will be and that many people all over the web have started, talked about and never completed the swap but there are some who have paved the way in S130s, buggies, 240sx, 350s and 370s. All of that being said this will be a pretty drawn out and long process as I don't have a set pool of money to just throw at a project until completed. I've got 4 kids and I'm the bread winner for our family working 1 full-time and 2 part time jobs. I do how ever have some very good connections with a few local machine shops, mechanical engineers, fabricators and professional welders. I also work full time at a government shop where I can use any of the tooling and facilities after hours that I don't have at home as long as I clean up after myself. That's about all I can stand to write for now, as things progress I'll try to take lots of pictures and document as much as possible.
  17. Looking for a base map for VG

    I am swapping a VG30E into a 1975 280z. I'm doing a megasquirt setup and I am wondering if anyone has a base map that they would be willing to share with me for the VG.
  18. Hi everyone, I have an R200 that I am trying to build up and it's missing the companion flange at the front of the diff. If anyone has an old diff they won't be using and can remove one, that would be great. Contact me. Greg Ira
  19. Here is one race at event 5. Did well. Lots of cars over 70 racing today. Next is exhaust and suspension upgrades. Sway bars Camber plates Frame rail Seats Roll cage https://youtu.be/0pmwZG9sp8k
  20. S30 RC Calculator

    Version V1

    28 downloads

    Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct.
  21. fs: 1976 Datsun 280z Roller

    1976 Datsun 280z chassis. Located in Scarborough, Maine This is most definitely a project car. The car chassis fabbed from 1.75" x 0.090" DOM tube and 2" x 3"x 0.125" stock. Front end is from a Lexus SC400. The rear end is from a R32 GTR. Doors, Hood and front fenders will go with it. PM me for any further details. Here is some pictures from the previous owner: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102035-rbs-builds/ $2000 or best offer.
  22. 1976 280Z RB25 swap

    I just bought my first 1976 280zx and its a rebuild for sure i found a good condition RB25 N/A motor really cheap from a friend have read things about swapping it but haven't found out the stuff i will need to swap it like what transmission and stuff like that can anyone help me out? And with the rb25 n/a what would be some good stuff to pull some extra horse power out ofthe motor i would like to be right around the 300hp to the wheels?
  23. Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
  24. Megasquirt help

    Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new one. I am new to things like megasquirt and tuning so I'm not too sure where I should begin at all, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.
  25. Hey guys been a member on here for a while but haven't been very active. Anyway for a little background, I live in Barbados in the Caribbean which is a pretty small island. Despite the obvious benefits of living on a tropical island like all year good weather and lovely beaches, our duties on vehicles here are crazy (over 200+%) and also there are serious restrictions on vehicle importation for instance nothing older than 4 years which automatically rules out any s30 Zs. However I have always wanted one of these cars so I was left with the only legal option of importing a shell or basic chassis and building a car from scratch. I spent some time scouring the net for just that and finally found a 280z in pretty good condition and the owner was willing to strip it to the point I wanted. He had done a basic restoration a few years back to the point of primer but it was too rough a job for my purpose so I decided a full strip down from the ground up was in order and at the same time I would modify to suit. One of the issues I faced was that there were no other driving Zs on the road and just a couple S30 shells lying around and since the body came missing most parts I would have to educate myself thoroughly on the workings of the car. Also because of the unreliable work ethic of many persons available I decided that for the fun and general experience of it I would undertake the restoration and modification almost exclusively along with a good friend. This naturally required somewhere to work and the tools to get the job done, so my first order, even before I had the car was to start getting the tools I didn't already have. It's been an on and off 3 year project so far and still not done. The car in it's original state when I first got it. Looked decent from far but far from great... Of course after stripping some rust issues were found but all in all was pretty good. After the rust areas were dealt with the next plan was to convert the car from LHD to RHD since that is the side of the road we drive on here. Finding donor parts prooved to be a bit of an issue so we eventually decided that the only real way was to fabricate everything from scratch. So we made up a couple templates and pulled out our spot weld remover bit and got to work. The next step was getting everything stripped down to metal and epoxy coated. Best way for this would be a rotisserie so that was our next project, building one. Then the fun could begin... After hearing alot of horror stories about 'professional' sandblasting services I decided to blast the car myself with a small blaster from eastwood and some glass. It was NOT fun. But the results were rewarding.
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