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Found 292 results

  1. I'm looking to refresh my suspension for my 75 280z. Looking for coilover and aftermarket control arms, preferable techno toy tuning but open to other brands. I'm also looking for an R200 to swap in for my stock R180. Let me know if you have anything that you are looking to get rid of. I do have so parts to trade if you are looking for Retro-spec fender flares, 240z calipers, 240z inspection lids. thanks
  2. I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
  3. Hi all, I just joined the forums. I bought a 77 280z a couple of days ago and I'm having trouble passing emissions. The previous owner installed a megasquirt EFI which wasn't really the issue during the test. However, some vacuum lines are missing. The EGR valve isn't connected to anything and the vacuum line diagram shows that I must have a BPT valve, which I don't. Would it be ok if I connect the EGR valve directly to the intake manifold? The other issue is the purge valve on the carbon canister isn't connected to anything either, form what I understand, it should be going into the throttle chamber where you can see that it's plugged in Thanks!
  4. Hi guys, I'm Z enthusiast from The Netherlands and right now I'm hunting for my first Z. Well it's not my first because I've owned two 350Z's and a 300ZX TT but this will be my first Datsun S30 Z and also my first classic car / oldtimer. Right now I own a 2013 Ford Focus ST Wagon as my daily and family car but in the last 10 years I've had a number of Japanese performance cars: Nissan 350Z, Honda S2000, Impreza GT Turbo Wagon, 300ZX TT and a 1991 Miata. Most heavily modified with coilovers, turbo upgrades, big brake kits etc etc. The Datsun Z has been my dream car for more than 10 years and in my mind it was just too expensive and too much work to ever make that dream a reality. But around two weeks ago I had an epiphany when I realised that I can actually buy one now. I'm earning more than enough money as a freelance web developer and I have the skills to do all the mechanical work apart from welding (haven't been to a dealer in 10 years for repairs or maintenance). The only "problem" is that I don't own a garage that is big enough to store a Z but I'm already looking for one to rent in my area which shouldn't be a problem. My plan for the Z is buy one that is rust free (or almost), has a manual gearbox and runs well so I can basically start using it right away. Drive it to work on nice days and do some drives in the weekends. Get to know the car and it's problems and then start improving it at a slow a steady pace. I will start with fixing the small problems and then look into making it handle better and look better. Improving power is at the bottom of my list. I'm in no hurry and I hope this will be that car that I will never sell and pass on to my son in 30 years time. I have a budget of 10.000 to 15.000 euro which is kind of tight for a nice Z here in The Netherlands. A nice restored 240Z costs around 30-40, a good one 20-30 and okay ones seem to start around 16. I actually have a preference for a 280Z because those seem to be a little cheaper and have some improvements for regular road use like a stiffer frame and fuel injection. After placing an wanted advert a nice guy contacted me and told me he was importing a 280z and two Z31's from California. He told me he came across this 280Z that was virtually rust free, had a recent 6000 dollar paint job, a 4000 dollar interior job and a recent engine rebuild done and that he made a low ball offer that to his own surprise was accepted. He told me his asking price which is well within my budget and that I have first dibs on the car. Yeah I know it all sounds a bit too good to be true but then he send me the pictures I was pleasantly surprised because it really does look like a very good car. To me anyways but I'm a new to Z's and I might overlook things that you guys notice right away... That is why I would like to hear your first impressions on this car. The license plate makes me think this car was owned by a enthusiast which would kind of make the whole story plausible. Hell maybe even some people here know this particular car? So please let me know what you guys think. Thnx! Reinier Amsterdam, The Netherlands
  5. I have a question regarding 5.3L chevy truck engines for a 280z 2+2 swap. The plan is to use a v8 swap kit like the Hoke performance or Johns cars, headers (CX racing has some good ones), fuel injection, LS1 intake manifold, and a manual throttle body. My question is does anyone know which chevy 5.3L truck engines will work? I know the early Vortech engines are popular, like the LM7 and L33, but will the more modern engines 2007-present work as well? For example, will the Gen IV LY5 and LMG and Gen V L83 engines still work? Has anyone gone this route, or are these engines too difficult to wire and work with? Also, will these engines mount up to a T56 or TKO600 manual transmission? Thanks very much for the help! The only info I found by searching the forums is that these engines have DOD which I would need to deal with.
  6. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  7. Hi All, Well I am finally getting close to building another Z. Now that the prices have risen 10 fold or so, I figure I'll spend my money... LOL. This would be my 4th Z car. So, I am looking into doing a complete build on an S30, probably a 76-78, as I just cant justifying tearing up a 240 now that the values are through the roof. I am looking at a complete build, engine, tranny, suspension, brakes, etc, etc. I am thinking about a few different motor configurations. Ideally I would like to see RWHP in the 375 to 425 area, and torque somewhat commensurate with those numbers. I have thought about a NA motor, but not so sure I will see those numbers from an NA motor. As I hate turbo lag, but love the top end of a turbo, I was pondering a twin scroll type of a set up. My budget is in the $15K to $20k area for the motor. As many of you on this site have much more experience in this area than I do I would love to get some input from you as to what your thoughts are on this project and which way would you go, NA 3.2 motor, slightly built RB series motor, single twin scroll or twin turbo? Also, if I decide to go RB who is a good RB engine builder out there, I am in the Washington state area. I should add that I am not looking for a drag car, but something more like a solid GT car that can also handle some light track day fun. Thank you in advance for your input.
  8. 240z clutch pedal.

    Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  9. Looking For S30 Whale Tail

    Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
  10. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, tranny, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals possible paint color Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
  11. Hey guys, Sorry about posting this in the FAQs first, didn't see what category I was in. I recently got the Zcardepot.com Rear disc brake conversion kit, the sport one with the drilled and slotted discs. It uses a maxima caliper. They didn't send me any install information, just a box of parts. I have searched around and haven't found anyone who has documented the install. I did my best to install it how it makes sense, but I want to make sure that it is correct before I bleed the system and drive the car. I've posted some pictures below of my install, sorry for the lighting. I usually do all my work with a headlamp on, so pictures are either too bright or too dark..... I posted a picture of the brake line included, as well as letters showing where they are located on the installed caliper. I used the factory bracket to hold the middle of the brake line fitting. I also used the caliper with the R for right side on the right side of the car. I literally couldn't even find info on how the pads are supposed to be installed. They seem to be left/right specific, as the pad touching the caliper piston has a large tab off the back of it that sticks out. Mostly I am wondering: 1. Is the caliper even in the right position? 2. Is the brake line routed correctly? 3. I read that to make the hand brake cables work, i should swap them across the car so they are short enough to use them on the front of the disc. That is my plan, but have yet to do it. Is it correct? 4.Is there anything I am missing documentation-wise? I can't even find a maxima caliper swap guide. The one I found has broken picture links, so it isn't much use. Thanks in advance!
  12. 280Z Half Shafts

    Selling some spare half shafts that I've been hanging on to. Recently converted to the Wolf Creek Racing CV kit, so these won't be seeing the track any time soon! #1 and #2 are fully stock, taken from a R200 280z, #3 was refreshed with MOOG U-joints and repainted 2 years ago. #1 and #2 $50 35 each SOLD!!! #3 $75 50 Buyer pays shipping.
  13. Hey guys, I'm going to be around my parts car from December 23rd - 27th and can remove some parts if anyone is interested. I have a plan to remove some parts for myself while I'm there as well. Let me know what you want and I'll take a look when I get there if I don't already know I have it. Buyer pays for shipping if not already included.. If you think I'm nuts on any prices just let me know or make me an offer. I also have the following: New rear LCA Spindle Pins with freshly cadmium plated spindle pin lock bolts included -- SOLD Urethane Spindle Pin Bushing Kit (rear LCA outer bushings only) -- $30 shipped Energy Suspension polyurethane rear LCA bushing kit -- SOLD Energy Suspension polyurethane compression rod bushings -- $15 shipped Rear LCAs from a 1972 240z. The sleeves aren't usable and will need to be removed - $75 shipped I don't know why but some of the pictures are refusing to be uploaded in the correct orientation. Sorry about that. Thanks
  14. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  15. I finished my LS1 and 4l60e swap this spring into my s30. Have enjoyed driving it this year. My plan this winter was to pull the motor and trans and rebuild them. Both are bone stock. Motor is going to be completely rebuilt with c/h/i. While trans is getting built up to handle more power and fix failing clutches. That was until my friend at the junkyard called and said he has a ls3/6l80e with harness and pedal out of a 2013 Camaro ss with 50k miles. I can get it for about $4300. I know the ls3 is no issue, but I can’t find anyone who has put a 6l80e. How much bigger is it than a 4l80e? My LS1 has about 180k miles on it and by the time I rebuild both it and trans with a higher stall, I figure I will have about what the ls3 pull would cost me. My Z was originally an automatic, as was the donor z28 Camaro I took the original drivetrain from. I guess I could always convert to manual and run a t56. Is a 6l80e something I can message in, or is it a major surgery not worth messing with.
  16. He Guys, right now i am doing a full restoration of a 280z from 1978. The car little rust, but it got welded together from 2 different cars and was sold to me as „original“.... So i am looking for a 280z shell in good condition, preferedbly from california or desert area but not a must (no accidents, minimal/ no rust). If anyone has one in the garage or knows someone who wants to get rid of his project, i would be more the happy to hear from you. Thanks a lot
  17. Will ship any of these parts, shipping included in price! paypal is jcrawford@autodist.com These parts were all taken off my 78 280z 2+2 in good used original working condition for the v8 conversion. * 2+2 4 speed drive shaft with slip yoke and flange $150 *clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir $25 *4spd shifter with nice original Datsun shift knob $80 *Transmission mount bushings good surface rust w/ bolts $30 *Ignition module / computer worked as it should light corrosion on case $40 I will add to the thread as I find more parts in the garage and take pictures. Thanks for viewing!
  18. Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  19. Gas Monkey 280z at SEMA

    I searched around and didn't see any mention of it yet (on hybridz), Although I am not a fan of Richard Rawlings and his show since Aaron left, I really like this car ever since I saw it on social media. I was like awwww when I saw the A$$ monkey plate. Still, the exact direction I was going with my 2+2, and now I feel like i have to switch things up to be accused of copying this celebrity Z. Little run-of-the-mill, but very sharp and tasteful. And its good to see the 2+2 body style getting some more attention! More pics & info here: http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/11/gas-monkey-garage-goes-jdm/2017-sema-gas-monkey-garage-datsun-280z-speedhunters-by-paddy-mcgrath-5/ -Joel
  20. NEED CARBS PLS HELP

    hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
  21. Hello everyone! Im new to the Hybrid Z forums so I thought I would start a build thread for my build on my 1975 280z. Current car: 1975 Datsun 280z Mods: Subaru Power Steering conversion, Full Eibach suspension, aftermarket swaybar + full polyurethane bushing conversion, Toyota front disc conversion, aftermarket A/C installed, 240z driveline, (im probably missing some things so I'll update it as I go.) I have roughly 20 years of receipts of all the work done to the car. I just recently acquired the car so everything listed above was done by the previous owner. Now here is my plans for the rest of the car: [Key --> Green = Acquired Crossed Out = No longer using ] Turbo Spec Motor 7.31:1 Compression (N42 block/P90 Head) Either T3 Precision Turbo or T3 Turbonetics Arp Head Studs External Wastegate + Blowoff Valve + AFR + Boost Gauge Oil Cooler Turbo dizzy 82/83 280zx + shaft Megasquirt EFI kit from Softopz 550cc RX7 Injectors / 440 cc Supra Injectors (For Sale, Message me if interested I will ship at no extra cost) Turbo Oil pump (thoughts?) 240sx throttle body + Sensor Intercooler + Piping Oil Pressure T for oil lines to turbo (in & dump) 2mm head gasket to lower compression to 7.8/1 wastegate Downpipe (need a dump tube as well for the wastegate) Turbo Manifold(x2 anybody want to purchase my extra?) + wastegate adapter 2.5" exhuast / black widow widowmaker Upgraded Ignition System (not sure which to go with yet, suggestions??) NGK Plugs Pallnet Fuel Rail Kit + Throttle Body Spacer Electric fuel pump upgrade + New Pressure Regulator ------------------------------------------------- UPDATES: Update 11/3/2017 - With some great info/advice from the comments, I am highly considering going with a megasquirt plug in play kit made by softopz (just waiting on his reply at the moment). I've also decided I definitely DO want a bigger cam, so any suggestions on that front are helpful as well. Also I have added that if I go the megasquirt route I am ordering a pallnet fuel rail to compliment it. Update 11/4/2017 - Alright after meticulous research, hours of comparing prices and talking back and forth to people who have done the cam/turbo builds and the potential power gain (and I do mean COUNTLESS hours of this haha), I have decided to completely ditch the whole cam and head upgrade idea and go the turbo build route. For almost the same price (actually a bit cheaper) I can get alot more smiles per gallon with the turbo build. There just isn't enough power to be had on the N/A build for the amount being spent. So as of right now this is the game plan. I will continue to add to this as I see fit, everything will be updated on this original thread post. Part 2 11/4/2017 Just went through the receipts on the car (dating back to the late 90's) and boy was I in for surprise! All of the tedious work to maintain the stock L28 has been completely gone through by the PO! For example the timing chain kit from Z Motorsport has been installed, Tune up kits routinely done, fuel pump and filters / lines replaced, harmonic balancer replaced, and the list goes on. I couldnt be more happy with this purchase!! Did I mention the PO gave me a close ratio 5-speed for the car?! This car amazes me and I am very thankful that it has had such meticulous care over the years. Update 11/7/17 Added some parts to the list. Also purchased a turbo manifold on facebook for 150 bucks! ***Update 11/10/17**** I have purchased a complete L28 turbo motor setup at a very very good price! Here are the engine specs: L28 N42 Block with dished pistons, P90 Head, N47 intake, turbo manifold, Pallnet fuel rail + Fuel pressure gauge, 440cc supra injectors, rebuilt chinese housing turbo with turbonetics internals, turbo dizzy, and assembled with ARP studs. Came with some other misc parts as well. Update 11/13/17 Link to spreadsheet for parts list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iOiWBJyjQH3KEkLnBor0snwgOvXaUo4I0qIo1ZDYFZo/edit?usp=sharing Update 12/7/17 Tore down the entire motor and I am going to rebuild the bottom end and the head and all freeze plugs timing chain etc... Ordered all the parts just need to hot tank the block to start assembly again.
  22. I pulled my engine and tranny last weekend while my kids and wife were out of town and now I want to restore my engine bay. I would like to know from those who have performed this swap what I can throw away. I would look at the photos of other peoples' engine bays who have performed the swap, but I'm not sure what has been hidden as opposed to demo'd/removed. Please assume: I will be keeping the AC system, relocating the battery to the back. Thanks to everyone, I have been using this, my FSM, and youtube to help make a lot of this happen. In case you're wondering, my car came painted like this. I'll be dreaming up a new scheme either to match or something else. Jeff Engine Removed
  23. KA Mounting Question

    Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
  24. Hey all, bought a pair of wheels with some positive offset, so I got a set of 25mm wheel spacers all around to make them fit. I went with the pair listed at zcardepot: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was hoping this would "ensure" that they fit all around (since zcardepot specializes in z-cars) but alas, the fronts do not. On the front (stock) hub, it seems that rubber-ish (might just be gunk lol) piece sticking out doesn't clear the center bore of the spacer. I need about 1/8" more clearance. See the following pics. Should I have expected this? Is there just gunk build-up on my car that needs to be cleaned off? What is this rubber extension anyway? Am I screwed unless I get new hubs? FYI - the wheels themselves have 73.1mm inner bore (~2 7/8") and would likely fit on the hub if they were correct offset. I have to use a hub ring to properly center them on the spacer outer edge. Gap when fitted: The center bore appears to be machined out to compensate, but it is just a bit too narrow: OEM wheel has 2 7/8" inner bore: Spacer has 2 5/8" inner bore:
  25. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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