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Found 12 results

  1. Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
  2. Edit - First, thank you for any replies and to anyone who read my original post. I am learning this with the FSM and two repair manuals. I used a second set of eyes to go out and triple-check that I hadn't made a bunch of mistakes. The first cylinder gets a compression reading on the gauge at about the 45 mark (if it existed). When bringing the pulley mark to zero with the help from my second eyes, I get a completely different and much less dramatic looking scenario. The timing mark on the chain is a V (sitting at 2) versus a shiny which I couldn't find before. This looks less problematic than the crazy scenario I originally posted about but is still puzzling to me as the PO's mechanic didn't work on the timing but said there was a definite issue. Do these markings look off to you?
  3. gira

    L28 stock AFR change

    Hi Folks, I finished a stout little engine build for a customer of mine here in South Florida. It's a 10:1, 40 over L28 with a decent cam. I assume I'll have to throw some more fuel at this engine but it's going into a stock 1976 280Z with the original fuel injection that was working fine. I have done many engines like this but never into a stock FI system. What is the preferred method of adding fuel? The less complicated the better! Thanks, Greg Ira RevTec
  4. CRAracer05

    WTB: L28 Rocker Arms

    I am looking for a complete set of of rocker arms for my N42 head that I can send in to be resurfaced. Mine are too pitted to be cleaned up.
  5. I sent my N47 of to a local machine shop for a cam regrind (out sourced), valve seals and cut/seats, new lash, rockers, lash pads etc. Told the guy not to removed the cam retainer caps...well I guess the caps were removed. Every manual, forum I have read states DO NOT REMOVE CAPS. They are still working on the head at this point and it has yet to be installed. From what I understand there can be alignment issues with the bearings, thus big time failure. This work is being done on my donor head, and I have my perfectly working stock head still on the car. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 1978 280Z all stock.
  6. CRAracer05

    N42/N42 N/A Engine Build

    I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,
  7. Here pictured is the spec card from the cam in the motor that will be going into my car. I have ridden around in the donor car, and it seems to run fine. However, the .480/.480 lift and .274/.274 cam profile seems to match that of a Schneider stage 2 NA cam as sold through MSA. I believe that the overlap on this cam is 54* and I know that less overlap on a turbo is better, I am just ignorant as to how much is acceptable, and the opinions out there seem to conflict. The MSA/Schneider Turbo Stage 1 has only 27*, but jeffp in another post says that he runs 54* and it works fine. I don't have a very free exhaust flow, just your standard turbo exhaust manifold to a T04E 60 to a 3in to a Monza tip. This car is for the street, but hope to run 15psi. Priority 1 is not blowing my motor, priority 2 is power. I know there is a lot of info and discussions on cams out there. What I am looking for are answers specific to my application. In short, should I run this head as is? Would I just be better off selling this N42 and getting a rebuilt stock P90 with a stock cam? If I go that far should I go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 turbo cam with it? Thanks!
  8. Hi guys. I just picked up a rebuilt 1997 mark vi vortec 454 .030. The engine was done to stock specs. The guy I got it from started a project and abandoned it so I got the complete long block for a great price. Everything was rebuilt/replaced on the engine. These run about 9:1 stock compression and I'm assuming that it's going to be right around there give or take .3. I have a question. I'm going to be upgrading the cam before I get further into the project. What is the largest cam that the vortec heads can handle without machining the valve guides for seal to retainer clearance? I don't feel like taking the heads off and totally disassembling them. I need a quick cam change. I will upgrade the valve springs if necessary. I'd also prefer to stay with the nonadjustable valvetrain vs. spending more money. It's already going to cost an additional $1200 or so in parts for me to get this to work. Engine will be a carb engine with an edelbrock performer RPM intake. Hei distributor. Vehicle it's going in is my truck. 1992 Chevy k3500 mason dump 4x4, nv4500 5 speed with 4.56's front and rear. Truck is heavy but I need this engine to have some power. I don't tow, but do get loads stone (6000lbs on average) and the 350 that was in it required downshifts on hills even unloaded. I'd like this to pull above 5k and not die out like the TBI 350 did at 3800. Truck weighs 7540 with me in it. Any advice? Thanks.
  9. Hey guys, I have some parts from a 240Z and 280Z up for sale. I am located in Orange California and would prefer local pickup but am willing to ship the smaller parts. 14 x 6 wheels - $200 obo Camshaft (E30, Grind A) - $50 Holley Fuel Pump (Brand New in box) - SOLD Lash Pad kit (will measure and update post - brand new) - $65 A/C components (will take inventory and update with pics and price) - TBD Intake - Sold Carbs - Sold Airbox and ducting - $20
  10. shawn83zxt

    SBC V8 Part-Out

    I'm reasonable, make a reasonable offer and we can work something out. Prices do not include shipping (which you will have to pay) T350 trans - $200 Exhaust system, S130 custom - $350 Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads Scorpion 1.5 anodized roller rockers - $800 Edelbrock performer RPM intake - $150 Holley 3310 vacuum carb 750cfm -$100 350 shortblock w/ Comp Cams 268XE cam - $250 JTR block huggers (ceramic) - $200 MSD pro billet distributor - $175 MSD 6AL box - $150 JTR SBC engine mounts/plates - $50
  11. Hey everyone, I'm getting out of Datsuns and I am looking to sell off some of the neat things I collected over the years. All prices are negotiable (to a certain degree), shipping + paypal are extra. I have a lot more pictures of everything and will gladly e-mail them to you upon request. So without further ado... 1. Ported and modded P79 head. The head was first hot tanked and sandblasted, then machined. Professional porting done by SRPD racing in NY, brand new valve guides and stainless swirl polished valves. All of the valve seats have been cut and valves back-cut and lapped to match. I also have brand new high performance valve springs and retainers as well as resurfaced rockers. The head has been shaved .080 and I have a set of .080 cam tower spacers to match. For everything (head, valves, rockers, cam towers, cam tower spacers, and valve springs) I am looking to get $1200 2. Weber DCOE42 carburetors on a Cannon intake manifold. The carburetors were rebuilt using OEM Weber parts and gaskets. The manifold has been blasted and refinished, and the linkage disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and readjusted. $1300 3. Camshaft - ground by Norris in California, supposed to be a hot-street cam good for around 7000 RPM. I can get complete specs upon request. $150 4. Front LCA's - control arms have been blasted and refinished with POR15, also have brand new energy suspension polyurethane bushings installed $150 5. Rear LCA's - same as front control arms; blasted, refinished, new poly bushings. $150 6. Mustache bar - blasted and refinished in POR15, new poly bushings installed. $150 I just want to reiterate that everything for sale here is brand new and has never been installed, and in some cases never been out of the box. Keep in mind the prices are negotiable so if you think I'm an a**hole who wants too much, shoot me an offer. Everything is located in Niagara Falls, ON canada for any of you local folks out there. Please PM me with any inquiries.
  12. noelawinslow

    New camshaft affecting valve lash

    Apparently my engine has a bit hotter of a cam, and there's a little bit of valve ticking, but I just adjusted the valves and the sound prevails even when at factory recommendation. Would a hotter cam alter the required amount of valve clearance? If so, is there a trial and error method of adjusting the valves until the ticking is gone, and therefore a proper seat is found? Or am I just doing the adjustment wrong?
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