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Found 19 results

  1. Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
  2. Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
  3. Z car fans, Looking at different kits for my 73 240z. Need a kit for the street and occasional autocross. I received instructions for two different kits, and to my surprise they were the same instruction, and very poorly done. I've attached the instructions if anyone would like to take a look. Looked to me like it was translated from another language, probably Japanese. I'm basing my purchase on a lot of things, and one of them happens to be the fabrication/installation instructions. Can anyone share with me the BC Coilover instructions?? I contacted the mfg, and they have not disclosed the information yet. thanks, joe in SE WI NISSAN 280Z INSTRUCTION.pdf
  4. Hi everyone, I've been using this site for research along the way gearing up for my build. I just created an account, and this is my 1st post. I'm excited to interact and share my experience as I go with those I've mooched off of for so long! I've done a trial fit to check that the motor/oil pan/trans all lines up ok- so far so good! I'm now in the process of the final build on my 383, and about to pull the trigger on my suspension/brakes/hubs/axles etc. I figured I'd give up some info for critique from the experts (that's you guys!). I think I've ironed out most of the kinks of the build in my head, but maybe someone can catch me before I make stupid and expensive mistakes. 1st, a little history on the car/theme- I moved to san diego 5 years ago from Philadelphia, and I never knew such fun roads could exist! So I decided I needed a car that was more fun to drive, and after test driving a lot of cars, I bought an rx8. This was not even on my list of potential vehicles, but the salesman offered a fun test drive, so I bit. After driving such a light car, I can vow to never have a heavy "fun car" again! The rx8 was a hoot, but it didn't scratch my hot rod itch. After some digging, I came across the z cars. Amazingly lightweight, awesome weight distribution, ample underhood room, ginormous transmission tunnel, manual rack and pinion, strut suspension- I'm so in!!! Ok, now all I need to do is find one, being from philly, I've barely ever seen one- salty roads and weather wiped them all away long before my time. I figured I'd save up, and find a good specimen even if it took months. It took a day...I found a clean 69k mile, 1 owner, original orange county car for $1300 an hour from home- done! Ever since I've been reading and researching for the proper combination of parts that will satiate my "requirements" as a driver. It needs to be fast- stupid fast. It needs to handle- and not make me wish I had something else. It needs to look great- which Z's do!. It needs to be affordable- I'm not a "rich guy". (I could have bought a restored 63 corvette with a 9000rpm 302 or something if I were rich!) In all honesty, I'm really happy about the path I'm headed down with this car, and it really seems like a no compromise plan for not "classic muscle car" money, and it will be faster, handle better, and in my opinion, even look better. I can't decide if I really liked the 240 that much off the bat, or if I fell in love with it after staring and dreaming...I think it was both! Ok enough blabbering about why I'm doing this, and onto the technicals- This will be a street/strip car. Street because it would be a sin to build a drag car with the roads in san diego. Strip because theres no point of a car (imo) that you can't let fly. So the plan is as follows, 383, 11:1, brodix track1 heads, solid roller cam, single plane, holley 850hp carb (I build engines, that's the easy part). Should be about 550 horse on motor and pull to 7200 rpm, coming in around 2300rpm, trying to make it a canyon carver and a strip terror is tough for a cam designer, but my man says he has it covered... T56 6spd trans with aluminum flywheel and Ram powergrip hd clutch, good to 650hp as per Ram, and thats for a 3600lb car. R200 from q45, with techno toy tuning backing plates allowing q45 hubs, eliminating stub axles and flanges, while using q45 cv's with chromoly axles, and q45 brakes. Techno toy coilovers all around with tokico illiminas, 5 lug front hubs, and 300mm 4 piston brake kit. MSA sway bar kit, and quick ratio bump steer spacers. Possibly "zpowersteering's" electric steering assist kit. I have a shop on board to do the roll bar. For wheels I'm thinking 16x8, 5x4.5, 0 offset American Racing Torq Thrust II's polished. For tires, 225/50r16 front and 245/50r16 rear, maybe 45 series, not sure on that yet, need to do some measuring. I'm planning to use vintage air's system for AC, because the last thing I want is to get the car done, and loathe driving it because I don't want to stick the the seat. Soooo, what do you guys think??? I'd like to call out rebekahsz on this one, she always seems to have good input on stuff I've read before, plus the front tires are off the ground in the signature thumbnail Sorry that was so long winded everybody, I guess I've never had a chance to say all that to anyone that I thought would care before... please feel free to tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree with any of the parts I've chosen, or if you have any better ideas, all I have so far is the motor, transmission, and car. The techno toy order is ready, and I'll probably order it next week after I build the car in my head 10 more times haha. (Ps- the body isn't as bad as it looks, just red paint flaking to the original yellow beneath. I think that's why I got it so cheap, in the craigslist ad, it looked like bondo everywhere!) Thanks to all who have any input or recommendations in advance.
  5. Hey guys, This is the journey of my 1974 Datsun 260z to where it currently stands and where it is headed. I hope you enjoy! This was the car when I first got it... It was a good running car that was fairly "clean" with the exception of some hidden rust. I drove the car like this for a couple of years before I really got the itch to modify it. To start things off, my carbs started leaking so I rebuilt the round top already on the car. The outcome: Nice new carbs and a sad looking engine bay. (Ignore the wheel in the background, we will get to those later...) With the production of the BC Racing coilovers, I decided it was time to pull the car apart for a few updates in the winter of 2014/2015. It would share a space with an old Austin Healey Mini for the winter. With it up on Jack stands, the intentions were to go through the bushings, suspension and address the rear brakes. Along the Way I also picked up a set of Wilwoods for the front which are still having brackets fabricated. I acquired a Silvermine rear disc brake conversion, BC Racing coilovers, & some Prothane Bushings and work began. With all of the parts acquired that I wanted/needed for the winter ahead, I came across a pretty rair set of wheels that I would snatch up: 15x9 3-Piece Revolution RFX's that the previous owner had painted the faces of a House of Kolors Green. At first, I hated the color of the wheels but they have since grown on me a bit. With everything ready for the winter project, I started tearing the car apart... [/url With all of the suspension pulled off and the struts sectioned, I started assembling the front coilovers. The shop I had weld them had some pretty ugly welds that I ended up having to grind down. I also wire-wheeled the knuckle assembly and painted it for a nice finished look. I also went on ahead and wire-wheeled and painted the brake dust shields while I was at it... Finished Products:
  6. Hey im bored, so here are some pics of my current project. T3 Coilovers, XXR 531's 16x9, 245/45r16 Toyo Proxes TR1 all the way around, Rear fenders rolled. Enjoy
  7. IMG 4628

    From the album ls swap

  8. I have been browsing the suspension section as well as Google looking at the suspension options for the Z when I saw a company that I have never heard of before, claiming to make custom suspension and brake kits. I took a good look at their website and decided to send them an email to see if they would be able to make a purely bolt on kit for the S30 chassis, and this is their response: "Hello Dan, Thank you for your message and your interest. Yes we can do fully bolt on coilovers kit for your Datsun 260z. Our price starts at $1130 including shipping and it is fully custom built to suit your needs and bolt on for your Datsun 260z. We can customise the spring rate, damper length and travel as well as the valving to achieve the adjustability and ride quality that you are looking for. These kits allow the lower the car about 100mm to 120mm but if you need to go lower we can also do a fully custom extra lowered kit with shorter mounts and special valveling to suit the sorter shock travel and it could go an extra 40mm to 50mm lower. You could add helper springs in order to give you more travel and droop. It will help keep the tyre in contact with the road and provide better handling and comfort on rough surfaces. It’s another $100 extra for the set of 4. About the brakes unfortunately, we don't have the specs for your car but we would love to make some brakes for it. If you can fill up our measurement sheet we can make a custom bolt-on big brake kit and give you a $100 discount for the specs on top of our combo discount. We will guarantee perfect fitment of the kit. It is easy to take measurements and we can assist you with the process. When we will compile your specs we will be able to see if you make any mistakes. And we can also send you the templates to be sure that the kit will fit into your wheels. Also if you take a look at our spare part section we have the cheapest prices around by far. We don't have distributors so it's wholesale price pretty much for our BBK and we chose to sell spares to our customer at cost price. http://ceikaperformance.com/Custom-Built-Brake-Kit/Brake-Kit-Spare-Parts-c14/ We are a small company ran by enthusiasts and our prices are the cheapest because we have very reasonable margins. We only charge the cost of materials when upgrading to larger kits hence the price difference with competitors. We don't charge any margins on options prices either and we keep our costs down on sponsoring and marketing and rely on customer word of mouth mainly. We guarantee customer satisfaction, noise free braking (with street pads) and perfect fitment also. And our calipers, seals, brake line (made in UK and DOT/ADR approved), hardware and brackets come with a full 2 year warranty! I hope i have answered your questions. Feel free to contact us if you have any further questions. Best Regards, Gauthier Milharo – CEIKA team Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ceikaperformance Web site: http://ceikaperformance.com Email: [email protected] For large files, please use: [email protected]" It seems almost like it's too good to be true, but at the same time I would be super excited to have a true bolt on kit for around the same price as what's currently a weld on kit. They also make custom brakes, but don't have anything currently available for the S30's, but as you can see they will make them. If you guys are interested, I can get back with them and provide everything they need, as well as see if they are interested in a potential group buy. Let me know and I can try to work this out. EDIT: Their factory and assembly lines are located in Taiwan according to their website.
  9. I am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1976 280z. I am located near Youngstown Ohio and would prefer large items to be within driving distance. Send me a message and we can discuss anything you may have. Items I'm looking for as follows: ZG flares Z432 rear spoiler or BRE Ground control coil-overs (280z) Camber Plates Toyota Front brakes vented or non-vented setups Rear Disc Conversion MSA 6-2 Headers (coated) MSA Twice pipes Fender Mirrors Rota RB stagger package wheels (black or gunmetal) Triple Carb setup (complete) Ignition Box Universal Fuse box and or Wiring Harness 5-Speed Transmission 280Z or ZX R200 LSD Flat top pistons (new not used) Cam (new not used)
  10. Hey guys, I figured I may as well start a build thread for my late model 260Z. I am currently in the process of installing the new BC racing coilovers as well as working on a few areas of the brakes while I'm in there. I will also be installing flares this winter after my new 3-piece Revolution RFX wheels in 16x9. Below are a few pictures to get you up to date: Pictures of the coilovers right out of the box: Car on Jack Stands preparing to be disassembled for coilover install: Dirty Front Assembly Removed: Disassembling: Sectioned a bit (Not all the way. Correct cut is 45mm up from the bottom.): Rear Assembly Removed: Sectioned down a bit: Test Fit on front assemble before cutting to the correct height: My 3 Piece Revolution RFX's (Soon to be refinished to Matte Black Faces with Gloss Bronze Lips):
  11. I recently received a set of the new coilovers BC Racing has developed with JPN Garage. I know a few of you are anxiously awaiting yours so here are a few pictures of mine. Please note: I received mine as part of a sponsorship with the website I run which is why I have mine a bit earlier. Enjoy!
  12. WTB 260z Coilovers - $700

    Hello all, I'm looking to get a set of coilovers for my car, don't need to be anything super duper crazy fancy, I need it to be height adjustable and relatively bolt in. Camber and damping adjustable-ness is a plus but not a requirement. I am looking for a set that's in good working order and does not need rebuilt immediately. I will consider pieced together kits, something like the ground control setup that already has the strut tubes sectioned, I don't have the capability to section the tubes myself. I have a budget of $700 cash, I can do some wiggling on my end of a couple hundred if you tempt me hard enough. I am looking to buy a set before Christmas because this will be my gift from my wife this year (Isn't she a peach?). I'm either buying coilovers or rebuilding my 727 Torqueflite and installing a ratchet shifter, so if you have anything or know of anybody that does, send them my way relatively soon, otherwise I'll go the transmission route and blow my money that way. Thanks! Dan
  13. Coilover Setup for 240z

    I am looking for a coilover setup for a 1973 240z. Looking for something that has been welded already.
  14. NAME: Joseph Hamor phone: 239-nine nine four-3403 PAYPAL WILL BE USED FOR ALL TRANSACTIONS!!!! All parts are located in orlando florida. I was building this car to be a drift spec datsun but another chassis has landed on my front doorstep for a deal I couldn't pass up. Everything must go!!! I have the entire chassis that will be parted out and these parts are just the start!!! I will update it as I take off nor and more parts. Let me know what you need!!!! -My lq4 motor is up for sale. Its 6.0 bottom end with 80k. I which was entirely disassembled and refreshed. Everything on the upper side of the motor is BRAND NEW OR REFRESHED. Includes. -799 heads with mild port work -flex fuel, 5.3 injectors -patriot titanium valve springs, retainers, and valves -comp cams custom grind cam -comp 7.4 hardened push rods -wiring harness and pcm with a tune from klug performance -entire top end of the motor has brand new gaskets, including felpro headgaskets -has a competition clutch, stage 5, unsprung clutch with their heavy duty pressure plate and lightweight flywheel. This clutch is rated for 950+ ft lbs of torque. This motor has NEVER even bee started on all the new parts. My loss is your gain. 2500 without clutch, 3k with -ground control coilovers on datsun strut tubes-250 plus shipping -urethane front valence-100 plus shipping -grille-175 plus shipping -front and rear swaybar set, with hardware and programme endlinks-250 plus shipping -zg flares with hardware 125 shipped -corbeau gt seats on datsun seat rails (no rips) 175 each plus shipping -brand new rota rbrs 17x9 /10.5 black centers, brand new handbook ventus hr2s mounted (1200 plus shipping) -2 280zx master cylinders. 50 each. -champion monster series 4 row with dual 10 inch fans, brand new in box (225 plus shipping) -wilwood superlite 6 piston caliper set, 12.2 inch rotors, stainless lines for the front, and 4 piston superlites calipers, rotors, and lines for the rear. This set is over 2200 plus shipping new (1500 shipped) If you pay my ask in price, ill throw in stainless lines for the whole car and a wilwood brake proportioning valve. -bre spolier (100 plus shipping) -cowl induction hood (250 plus shipping) Please message me for pics and I can get them to you almost instantly. As I said, THE ENTIRE CHASSIS WILL BE STRIPPED SO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU NEED!!! I have tons of extra parts.
  15. WTB Coilovers

    I am looking to buy a ground control coilover kit (Pre-fabbed to struts or not), Mckinney motorsports, T3, or or Sakura Garage Stance Coilovers prefereably used.
  16. Evil 73

    From the album 73 240z

  17. So I'm looking to lower my stock 240z, aggressive enough to have a noticable difference from a stock z but still practical enough for the street. The guys at Ground Control sell a weld on coilover kit that most people are happy about but now im debating what type of struts and shocks to buy to replace the stock ones. I plan on having maybe a 200ish lb spring rate upfront and 225-250 spring rate in the back all depending on what struts and shocks i get.I know alot of people are getting tokicos, or even using aw11 struts and i was even suggestsed some Monroes or Gabriels. Opinions?? Suggestions??
  18. For sale is my 1974 Datsun 260z. The previous owner in Dallas had it set up primarily as an autocross car. I've owned it 2 years but only driven it a few hundred miles and have done very little with it. It has always run strong and the sound of the dual exhaust will send chills down your spine on the overrun. The car is currently registered as a vintage vehicle I'm asking $4000 obo. Text or email and we can meet up for a test drive. L28 Block 4 speed installed (5 speed included too) N42 Head Mild cam Cartech 4 barrel Intake Holley 4 barrel carb 6-3-2 header Dual 2" exhaust to glasspacks New battery Unknown brand coilovers Locked R180 diff 14in Iron Cross wheels Fresh Falken 195/60/14 tires CD Player No A/C Bucket seats 5 point harnesses Smoothed rear bumper Right now the car has a broken diff mount from the locked diff the p/o installed. It drives fine but is a little clunky. I'm including a 5 speed transmission/R180/new diff mount if you would like to swap it out. Paint is in reasonably good shape with a few chips here and there. There is a dent on the passenger fender that could be popped out. Andrew 830-499-8447 [email protected]
  19. WTB: ArizonaZCar Brake kit

    Looking to purchase Arizona Z Car Wilwood Front and Rear Brake kits and a coilover setup with 280z rear spline count, checking if anybody wants to sell there stuff before I decide to buy it brand new. Let me know what you got and how much you are thinking. I need the 4 lug nut version of the wilwood conversion. Thanks
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