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Found 3 results

  1. It snowed today in Louisiana and it reminded me that my heat hasn't been working, currently typing with numb fingers. Here's what I know: No heat comes out of any vents no matter what setting. Outside temp air is blowing through the center vents and the side vents no matter the setting. I got the car to operating temp and felt the heater hoses to the firewall, both were hot to the touch. I checked the vacuum lines from the manifold to the heater solenoids and they were connected fine. The line from the solenoids to the firewall is fine too. (Haven't checked inside dash yet.) It's possible that I might've unplugged a vacuum line that runs under the dash to the AC/Heater unit. I've pulled my radio and my center console out plenty of times. Might've snagged something. Since I have hot coolant flowing through the heater core and the hoses I don't think it's a heater core issue. I'm suspecting the climate control panel or something connected to it. It's my understanding that when you switch your climate control to heat/defroster it should immediately pump air through the defrost vents/floor vents. Mine always blows through the center and sides on any setting. Also, My lever that controls the "Hot/Cool" temp of the air coming through feels really bad and not properly set up. Hard to explain but it feels almost spongy and doesn't stay where I put it. I read that it's a cable that controls this and I might have to adjust it. Also possible that the door that controls which air gets blown through the vents is stuck? Could the solenoids that control the heater be seized? I haven't tried checking all of these yet because I'm really not looking forward to pull my dashboard out. I don't have a radio installed right now though so maybe I could access this through that hole? I'm just looking for someone that maybe had issues similar to mine that could provide some insight. I HAVE got my heater to work ONCE before, and I don't know how I did it. It was last winter and it was a seriously cold night and it just worked. I had heat pumping through my defrost vents but nothing since then.
  2. Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there are other issues (I think not all the injectors work well amongst other things). I’m also new to the turbo thing, only having had stock NA engines before. The issue that brings me here today is that I am embarking on a cold air intake build (I plan on building a scoop that goes under the rad and maybe back up in front of it (no more room to go through the rad supports as the weird intercooler has both in and out on the same side, that side), with the filter in an isolated box between the rad and the engine. See upcoming post with air pressure and temperature tests...) and also am looking into isolating my intake piping (see other posts on that, with data too). I don’t want to build things that are useless, so I started taking data before so I can compare before and after. I’ve been measuring and comparing temperatures under various situations and came to the realisation that I might have a problem (not sure, thus the post). If I cruise on the highway at steady speed (say 75mph), I get steady temperature: today at ambient 82 degrees, I got 90 degrees at the air filter, and 120-130 degrees at the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor (I don’t actually know where the guy put that sensor. Any clues?). I’m not certain how good this is, but it does not seems too too bad (still not happy that I’m gaining 65-85 degrees WITH an intercooler under very little load and high air flow. Opinions?). The potential problem occurs as soon as I lift of the gas. If I lift off a little, say to slow down to 60mph(without de-clutching), the temperature climb real quick to 155-175 degrees AIT, while everything else stays the same (air filter temp, RPMs, air flow…). If I completely let go of the gas (without declutching), the AIT skyrockets to 190-215 degrees. In both cases, the temps stay high for a while and only then decrease slowly (unless I give it gas, at which point they go back down quick enough I guess). If I let go of the gas but immediately de-clutch and stay in neutral, the temperature goes up to 150-165, but then comes back down on its own quick enough. I thinking the really high temperature I see when I don’t de-clutch might be a combination of A) slower moving air that gets to take the time to absorb more heat and B ) the fact that, because the engine is working still, there is a significant amount of exhaust that might make the turbo work and thus heat up the air. But how come the intercooler wouldn’t be making up for that? So, is that temp spike normal(ish)? Should I be worried? Any explanations?
  3. Jibarra

    Cockpit Heat

    Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
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