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Found 8 results

  1. Hey guys, So I recently bought some goodies for my 240z and I thought I'd share some of my experiences with these products. All from T3 or technotoytuning; I got their NCRA (negative camber roll center adjusters) and their camber/toe bushings as they seem beefier that the ones offered from MSA. Starting with the NCRA, I wanted to gives these a try to gain some much needed camber on the front axle of my 240z. The installation was pretty straight forward, much like your normal bumpsteer spacer installation with a few added steps. I already had bumpsteer spacers and those were great but I wanted some camber and these did just the trick. Effects of NCRA: 1. Camber has jumped from -0.7(stock with 1.2 inch lowering) to -2.5 2. Front ride height has decreased about 0.7 inches (this has to do with a longer lever and a different angle with the top of the strut tower) But the shock travel is nearly the same. 3. The steering response is a lot better and the car turns in great 4. Braking has been negatively effected as I lock up my front wheels quicker (smaller contact patch) 5. corning grip has gone up a lot (though it has become more of a handful to drive) Moving on to the Camber/toe bushings. These are really poorly designed, almost an after thought from T3. But they can be made to work. The installation took a bit of time because you have to take off the traverse bolts, and fiddle with the mounts. I did not have to take off the mounts completely, I loosened them enough to slip the bushings through. After the install I found out about how little thought was put into designing them. The bushings facing the front of the car has almost zero room to access the for adjustment. The bushings facing the rear are easy to adjust. However, here comes my struggles with these stupid bushings. They are solid aluminum with delrin inserts. These damn things just vibrate the crap out of those traverse bolts and they always get loose, thankfully they will still hold any measurement because they are clamped down by the control arm mounts. I am still constantly having to tighten them and you can feel when they get loose, because the rear will start to loose grip and you can hear clunking. Unless I can get my traverse bolts 100% tight I currently have a slightly "variable wheel base" . Effects of camber bushings: 1. Toe is fully adjustable to 0.7 toe out or in biased on your preferences 2. Camber is tricky to adjust as camber adjusts with toe and they are proportional. Max camber I could get was about -2.0but this gave me really stupid toe. 3. bitch to adjust front facing bushings 4. makes the ride stiffer as these are almost solid bushings I took the car to get aligned and the shop guy couldn't figure out anything with my 240z... prob to old for him to know how it worked and yet a 21 year old knows. So what do you do when sloppy mechanics get their hands on your car. you fix it yourself. TIME FOR DIY HOME ALIGNMENT hot rod style. I will make a post on how to do this. But take my word for it, this type of alignment is not bad at all. I had a different friend check for me using a modern laser machine and he came back to me with the shock of his life and said "you did THIS accurate of an alignment in your garage, tying to put me outta business haha"? Final Alignment specs: Front: Toe Driver side: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Driver side: -2.5 degrees Toe Passenger: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Passenger: -2.3 deg Caster Driver: 3.0 Degrees Caster Pass: 2.7 Degrees Rear: Toe Driver: +0.12 deg (toe in) Camber driver: -1.5 deg Toe Pass: +0.13 def (toe in) Camber Pass: -1.3 deg
  2. I am rebuilding a 1978 280Z and was planning all along to pretty much buy all of the suspension items available from T3, minus perhaps the coilovers since I wanted to go with BG Racing. I want to do a 2JZ swap with maybe a Z32 transmission and want it to be a fun street car. I will not be doing any drag racing or drifting as I do not want to beat the crap out of the car after all the work I will be doing restoring it. Recently I met a gentleman who had the S13 subframe installed and who claimed I couldn't go wrong with either set up but that the S13 subframe would give me way more options for upgrades as well as flexibility and adjustability. He also claimed it would be cheaper, unless I had to pay a shop to do the labor, which I would since I do not know how to weld. I contacted 2 companies that sell suspension items for the S30 and asked them their opinion on the pros/cons of the S13 subframe vs T3 stuff. This was their response: 1st company: "As far as I know, there is no mount kit for putting a complete S13 subframe under the car.....for good reason. The S13 subframe is fairly complex, yet poor handling design. The multi-link rear suspension is an inherently loose system. This is why they are such good drift cars, but rarely ever seen in road race. The Z car's original suspension geometry is a far better road race setup and linear handling design. It is proper sports car handling. The S13 subframe is a huge bulky setup as well. I think with a LOT of fab work you could put it under the Z car, but you'd be sitting at truck height because it would hang so low. In the end with all the fab work, I doubt you'd save much money, and you'd end up with a poor handling, ugly monstrosity of a mess under the car." And the 2nd company: "the s13 is a much better new technology it has similar to a double wish bone suspension which is far superior to the 240z rear suspension and differential. it will handle better. But it looks like a really long project with much welding cutting grinding fabricating. I would not do it unless i had all the tools already, and the skill to pull of such a project, and the amount of time for it. So do you have those resources is the questions? If you decide to keep s30 parts everything will kinda bolt on. any upgrade you buy will bolt on. All the parts are the same price. brake kits, suspension parts. so i'm not sure which one would be cheaper to do. It's a hard questions." Their opinions seems to vary, one saying it would handle well while the other saying it would handle better. Now I have not had the opportunity to drive a car that has either set up, but would like to know the opinion of the people who have done these upgrades. From the people with the T3 setup, how do you like it and would you go this route again? From the S13 setup, how difficult was the swap and do you wish you had gone with something easier and bolt on? Any and all information, advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I did some searching around and found a few threads talking about the swap but not comparing the two in regards to handling and also cost.
  3. Hi, There are many reports of OEM tension rods snapping when poly bushings are being used. But how about OEM tension rod bushings and stock tension rods? Is there any reports of stock tension rods snapping in this scenario as well? Car is a chumpcar racecar, it's an 1980 280zx with some suspension upgrades. If this is the case I will get a pair of Techno toy tension rods. Thanks
  4. So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
  5. turbo down pipe leak

    So back I Orlando. Put another gasket on the turbo to down pipe and it leaked again. You can actually stick a small flat head in between the top 2 bolts on the flange and wiggle the gasket. That's with the bolts tight. Looks like the down pipe flange is warped. I am going to get another gasket and try again. Just trying to help tooquick260 get on the road for this upcoming great weather here in Florida. Anyone had this issue?
  6. Hey im bored, so here are some pics of my current project. T3 Coilovers, XXR 531's 16x9, 245/45r16 Toyo Proxes TR1 all the way around, Rear fenders rolled. Enjoy
  7. WTB Coilovers

    I am looking to buy a ground control coilover kit (Pre-fabbed to struts or not), Mckinney motorsports, T3, or or Sakura Garage Stance Coilovers prefereably used.
  8. Dato3

    From the album 280ZX

    Front coilovers installed
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