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Found 131 results

  1. I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
  2. L28ET Swap

    Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  3. (Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
  4. (Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
  5. As the title says, I'm looking for the wastegate housing that bolts to the back of the turbine from a stock 280zx turbo. I'd possibly be interested in picking up a complete turbo too, if necessary. Again, thanks in advance!
  6. Here is one race at event 5. Did well. Lots of cars over 70 racing today. Next is exhaust and suspension upgrades. Sway bars Camber plates Frame rail Seats Roll cage https://youtu.be/0pmwZG9sp8k
  7. Hi all, I've finally decided to crawl out of my cave and surface my build here. I felt like I was taking more from this forum than I was giving. My build used a TON of info that I was able to unearth via this site. My hope is that my build adds to the plethora of information on here and helps others as much as it has helped me. Anyhow, I've been trying my best with the limited network/connections I have to get suggestions on where I should start with jetting for my turbo surge tank set up. I feel like I hit a dead end. I know that I have to fine tune the jetting for MY set up...so I'm currently in the process of installing a wide band O2 sensor and a boost gauge. However, does anyone here with experience have a ballpark estimate on jet sizes in an application like this? I don't want to start tuning my engine and have it catastrophically fail or damage my newly rebuilt motor because my jets are way out of line. Here is my set up: Engine: L28 N42 Block E88 Head (Debating on whether or not to install my spare P79 head in) 280zx Turbo dished pistons .020" oversize 1mm headgasket Stock L28 rods 280zxt stock exhaust manifold Custom 2.5" to 3" turbo back exhaust T3 Turbo w/internal wastegate: Compressor: Trim:55 Inducer Diameter:50.5 mm Exducer Diameter:76 mm A/R:0.5 Turbine Trim:73 Inducer Diameter:65.5 mm Exducer Diameter:55.9 mm A/R:0.63 Triple Mikuni 40PHH Carbs Main Jet: 145 Main Air Jet: 200 Pilot Jet: 60 Pump Nozzle: 0.45 I was able to find one member on here who ran a similar set up with a bone stock N42 block/internals 20+ years ago. He ran a 145 main jet. However, I was not able to find out what size his air correctors were. Any suggestions on baseline jet settings for a set up like this? Or am I just on my own with my O2 sensor analysis? I have included pictures for you! Please excuse the mess, it's still under construction. Thanks in advance!
  8. https://youtu.be/30nyGWq4mJQ Here is one of the runs. Got 3rd! Not bad on 6 year old dry rotted tires.
  9. Hey guys, I'm going different route about the engine. (RB NEO) It's time for some clean-up 1st is the TRUST/GReddy Single Turbo Manifold (BRAND NEW): SOLD Up for sale is 2x RARE L6 Turbo exhaust manifold for the Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX, L series 6 cylinder engine. Should fit on any L-series engine, even the old skyline GC10/GC110/GC210/HR30. This Manifold is made in Stainless Steel and the O.D. piping is 42.7 mm. It has a T4 Turbo Twin Scroll Flange. Very high quality. These are VERY expensive in Japan, over 2K in USD for a brand new one. This is not a cheap copy. It's original form Trust in Japan. I'm look for 1600$. Also they are designed for the RHD car. I can not guarantee the fitting in the LHD cars. You may have to modify the steering column to fit on LHD cars. This is a big manifold and the turbo is getting close to the suspension tower. It all depend on the turbo size you use. I would recommended to modify the steering shaft with a double u-joint extension fixed by 1 or 2 bearing eye bolt. Search here on hybridz for more info about this mod. It's been done to fit some V8 headers. 2nd is one of the rarest parts for the L6. The HKS ITB: SOLD Old school setup from the '80. HKS made it as a swap for the triple carbs (DCOE). Designed to be use with some turbo setup. (much more easy to use turbo on efi than carbs) It could be use as NA setup as well. Fit direct on any L6 airbox or surge tank like any DCOE. I'm look for 1200$ obo. 3rd is a modified SANYO/SK Sport Kit Intake runner: SOLD It can be use in few type of setup. NA / Turbo / Custom plenum box This intake runner has been modified. The L28 EFI manifold flange has been welded on it. So you can run injector on it. I will give everything you see in the pictures. I'm look for 350$ obo. 4th is the TOMEI Adjustable Cam Gear (BRAND NEW): SOLD As it said. It's the TOMEI cam gear. Brand new never mounted or installed. Still in the sealed bag Part number: 13024R500 MSRP at 220$ USD I'm looking for 175$ shipping include. 5th is the Nissan Comp AL Valve Spring Retainers (BRAND NEW): SOLD These are the same retainers they mention in the "How to Modify..." I purchase those from EvilC few years ago's Never used, never monted. I'm looking for 125$ obo In the next days I will post more L6 Rare/Awesome stuff for sales. Also if you're interest in more then 1 part, I can made a package deal. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm in Qc, Canada and these parts are in my hand ready to ship. Shipping is on buyers expense, ask for quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Please serious buyer only. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  10. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  11. Finishing up the build and have a few things needed and want to let go. Lower 48 only. FREE SHIPPING Fuel rails sold, intercooler kit sold. $SOLD Haltech E6X ecu with complete custom harness for S30 chassis. Includes everything shown: harness has leads for all regular/necessary inputs, i.e. IAT, TPS, MAP, trigger, injectors, etc. No sensors included. Also includes injector harness, fuse blocks and relays. Everything is even labeled for easy install. I can also send wiring diagram and base maps for startup but I recommend using a competent tuner as it is a bit old school but still quite powerful. Open to offers. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115714918512243/?sale_post_id=1115714918512243 SOLD Greddy boost controller. Installed but unused and removed. Changed ECUs and no longer need. Includes solenoid, controller, wiring harness, instructions, etc. Just can't find the box but its brand new. I had it mounted under the dash in my Z and left the bracket I made on it since attached with 3m sticky tape. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115720231845045/?sale_post_id=1115720231845045 $175 Seimens injectors. 575cc. Just flowed/ cleaned by Witch Hunter. 576cc set of 4 good injectors plus 2 cores. Data/flow sheet included. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1085472664869802/?sale_post_id=1085472664869802 $140 Turbo valve cover: Powdercoated matte bronze. Will post pics as soon as I pick it up from powder coat. $SOLD MSA 2.5" exhaust with dynomax muffler. I had it to compliment the MSA 6-1 header. Sounds awesome. couple of scratches under the diff from light ground contact. $SOLDDistributor Block off plate: Hoke performance. Mine already had a freeze plug pressed in which I kinda dig. $65 OHC valve cover, bare aluminum. All located in Boulder, CO. Happy to meet and exchange cash. Otherwise Paypal and feel free to make offers.
  12. Ecoboost swap

    This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  13. Hello, Need a spare/replacement ECU? FS is an 83 ECU [A18-605-581] - $75 OBO Shipped. Need the AFM to go with it? FS is an 83 Turbo Refurbed AFM [A31-624-600] - $40 OBO Shipped.
  14. SOLD

    Hello, FS is an L6 Oil Cooler setup. SOLD.
  15. Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project. As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance. Here is a dyno pull!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html Here is a run at the track!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C! Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity. Makes ya sick. Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver. Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat. First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA..... Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking. I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc. Look at the boxes of parts WOW! I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up. Before.... After.... Bolted to the head with cam timing done. Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right! While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z. To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s. Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP! So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke. He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed. Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff. Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount! Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line. Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans Stay tuned for the process.......
  16. l28et vems standalone

    Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
  17. Decided to go a different route with my L28ET build so I am selling off my Turbonetics turbo i never got to use. It is their TNX line of turbos. The exact turbo can be seen here https://turboneticsinc.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_105&product_id=692 I opted for the .65 AR housing. Model: TNX-40/64 Comp Wheel: 82/64mm Comp Inlet: 4.0" Comp Out: 2.5" Turbine Wheel: 69/55mm Turbine Housing: T3 0.65AR Turbine Housing Inlet/Outlet: 4-bolt/ 3" V-Band Let me know if there are any other images you would like of the Turbo. Retail price for the turbo with housing is $2144.98 before shipping My asking price is $1500obo, Free shipping to any of the 48 states
  18. Up for sale is the last 3 piece of my HKS collection. In perfect condition. Ready to use. 2x HKS Surge Tank Type 1 & 1x HKS Surge Tank Type 2 1- HKS Surge Tank Type 1- (FULLY OVERHAULED) SOLD This HKS Tank type 1 has been blasted and powder coated with very nice black sand texture paint. Not a spray cans but a real powder coating! I came as you see in the picture with brand new black oxide bolt set. I'm asking 1500$USD obo + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. 2- HKS Surge Tank Type 1 - (AMAZING CONDITION) SOLD This second HKS Tank type 1 is my preferred. It has been blasted and powder coated with very nice black sand texture paint. Again, it's a real baked powder coating! I came as you see in the picture with brand new Stainless Steel bolt set. I'm asking 1600$USD + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. 3- HKS Surge Tank Type 2 SOLD This third HKS Tank is the famous type 2. Unfortunately it’s missing the inlet section and the previous owner has blended the HKS SURGE TANK logo on top. So it’s a perfect deal for someone looking to build its own piping connection. It has been blasted and powder coated with black wrinkle powder coated paint. This finish isn’t as perfect has the two above. Please ask for more picture if you interest in this one. I will supply brand new black oxide bolt set. I'm asking 1000$USD + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. Shipping is on buyer’s expense, ask for quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  19. Want good condition ecu. Would like harnesz as well. Looking for maf as well
  20. Trying to clean out my garage. If you don't like my price, let's haggle. I like (physically small) trades too, but prefer cash. No prices include paypal fees (paid by you) Rays Volk Mesh II Removed from RHD Fairlady 280zx 14x7 +10 offset 5 wheels Need refinishing I have four matching center caps, just hunting for the 4th one. $550 plus shipping and paypal fees ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 280zx Swastika Wheels (very very clean) 14 pounds each 15x6 +10 offset 50% tread Falken 205/55/15 $300 plus shipping ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3 Screw Round Top SU Carb Setup Removed from strong running L24 six months ago. Replaced for triple carb upgrade. Recommend at least tear down and cleaning. Intake to air cleaner included. $300 plus shipping ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- N.O.S. Ansa Tips I have a total of three of these. Pristine condition, two in original boxes. I have been keeping these stashed for over 5 years. I always planed of welding in a y-pipe for that signature twin tip look. I never got around to it, then I impulsively bought the ZStory JDM twin tip muffler. Anyway, one is in near perfect condition, one is in great condition, the last is in great condition. Pipe inlet diameters: 2" and 2.5". I will need to verify these numbers. $75 each shipped
  21. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  22. Made this turbo back exhaust for this Rb powered 240z, it's made from oval tubing and round tubing. Fully tig welded stainless steel. A HKS Hi-power muffler was used at the back. Rear spare tire well was cut in order to clear the enormous muffler ( customer didn't realize how big the canister was) Cut some sheetmetal and Beadrolled it for strength and style. Came out pretty clean and it sounds awesome! I will try and upload a video here or link to youtube.
  23. 7M-GTE Devil Z

    Hey everone, So i`ve finally gotten the chance to do a engine swap in my car and thought i would post up a build thread on here so show you what im up too and to get some advice from all you gurus.I`ve got a 1972 240z with a L24 with basically just a MSD ignition setup on it. But at work we had a pretty clean 7M-GTE sitting around so I picked it up for $200 and started my swap. The 7m had a blown hg so I decided to do a full rebuild as this will be my daily. An older picture of my car: *sorry for crappy cell phone pics What i currently have: when I first took it out of the box: after a little tear down/inspection and clean: the two mating faces: So far I have started by pulling it all apart and getting the head machined. Luckily it was only warped 0.005in needed a total of 0.012in to take all the pitting out of the block for the metal head gasket. Then I microsonicly cleaned all the parts and did a proper rebuild, with a little port on ex runners, polish on ex runners, and all new seals and gaskets all around. And of course some paint to make it look a little nicer. Picked up a freshly rebuilt R154 from a local mechanic: Had the flywheel machined: Started tearing down the block: As of right now I have a fully rebuilt head ready to be put on the block and the block was decked and honed. Im just in the middle of ordering some parts then I'll put it all together!! I litterally cannot wait to drive this car when its boosted. its a long awaited dream of mine. Any questions, opinions and comments are welcome!! just don't hate on the 7M to bad, I think since I am building it properly it will be good as a daily with 250-300bhp Chris
  24. Up for sale is my 1978 280z with approximately 135,000 miles: $8500.00 (also, posted on Ebay) I bought the car from the original owner over 10 years ago and have been diligently restoring it ever since…brings me back to my high school days but life has gotten in the way and mandates the sale. What has been done: Rebuilt Stroker Turbo engine, upgraded Z32 5-speed Transmission and Z31 LSD differential and reconditioned/ upgraded suspension. The LSD clutches were upgraded w/ thicker clutch pates for about an 80LB break away (comes with original clutch plates if you chose to return to stock). Four wheel disk brakes w/ functional emergency brakes and hydraulic power steering. What’s remaining: Body work (nothing major – some rust on driver’s door and right lower front fender and rear deck lid – replacement deck lid is available from MSA for about $250), paint, carpet kit replacement and interior clean-up. Floor boards are good. The car runs great and is a blast to drive with plenty of power and a wonderful exhaust note. It has a fairly new radiator, starter, alternator, brake and clutch master cylinders, clutch slave cylinder and NGK plugs. Here are some of the key upgrades: Engine: L28E (N42/N42) bored to 3.1L (Stroker w/ LD crank) Turbonetics t3/t04E w/JWT Z31 ECU & Cobra MAF Jim Wolf 420 Tuned ECU w/ Ford MAF and MB Injectors (Pallnet fuel rail) N42 intake w/240SX 60mm throttle body and stock turbo exhaust manifolds 3-Inch Exhaust w/ Magnaflow Muffler Drivetrain: Z32 5 speed Trans, z31 r200 LSD w/CV's (Modern Motor Works billet adapters), Fidanza Flywheel 4 Wheel Disc Brakes (Toyota 4 piston mono-block calipers on the front w/ cross drilled rotos all around) Power Steering (operates flawlessly) Suspension: Motor Sport Sway bars Urethane Bushings all around Eibach Springs w/ Tokico illumine 5 way Adjustable Shocks Wheels/Tires: 15x7 Rota RB w/ 225/50 Kumho tires (need new tires) Interior: Mazda Miata Seats (fully adjustable on OEM tracks – look great) Car is located in Round Lake beach, IL Ken (847) 345-1215
  25. This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.
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