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Showing results for tags 'alternator upgrade'.
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I have a 1975 280z and recently bought an alternator for a 280zx. I went to install it and realized that the wiring and plugs to the alternator were different from what I was expecting. This is the alternator that was in the car at the time of purchase: This is the alternator uninstalled: The new alternator has a T plug, which is what I believe should have originally been there: This the plug that's in the car now: anyone have any idea why the plug might have been changed? And how hard it might be to return things to stock? I found this on eBay: But can I just use that to convert back to a T plug even though it's been rewired? Any help would be appreciated.
So about a year and half ago I upgraded my 280z alternator to a 280zx internal volt regulator alternator. I did the wire modification and everything but have this annoying issue that the alternator won't kick on unless I high rev it past 3000 RPMs. When this happen the AMP gauge needle moves from the middle to 1/4 past it. This holds for a little bit and then it drops back down to the middle. When I do this all the lights in the car become brighter as if it getting the juice it needs. Now if I do not rev it to "jump start the alternator" It will run off the battery and the car will eventually die. So I'm wondering if it's a faulty Alternator? It was a refurbished one I got from Rock Auto. Or is it maybe fuse related I have the glass fuse still and the old fuse wires in the engine bay? Thanks!
The title says it. I got a 280ZX Turbo alternator and did the swap. I also bought the voltage regulator plug from MSA and carefully read the instructions. The car works fine ... except for some reason the headlights no longer work and my tach reads low. My set-up is a Mallory mechanical advance distributor with a Pertronix and MSD 6AL using their tach adapter. I was working before. Just prior to me swapping out the alternator the tach starting bouncing. Everyone said it's likely due to the twin fans on my radiator pulling too much on the 240Z electrical system. So I made the swap. The car seems to run much better, but now the tach only goes up to about 1500 RPM despite the engine revving much higher. Any idea would could have happened? I know doing a remote diagnostic on such a set-up is asking a great deal, but any pointers as to where to start would be great. Perhaps something simple I overlooked. The voltage regulator is completely removed from the circuit. Nothing was hardwired to it.