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Found 21 results

  1. Building an L28 (NA)

    UPDATE: 2/14/15 After a rather long hiatus, the build returns with updates! As some of you may know, I decided to go with the professionals with this build. Looking at some local shops around my area, most notably Rebello Racing, and also some other shops across the country, I've decided to send my dear L28 out to Eiji Hosomi at Datsun Spirit Inc. (https://datsunspirit.com/) There are three main goals that I wanted my motor to achieve. 1. Speed > Power. I want my motor to run like a hot knife through butter. It needs to be quick and very responsive. Power is nice, but a quick revving motor is what I seek. 2. Character. My beloved Z will eventually be my weekend car. I don't want the motor inside of it to just be a fast engine. It needs personality and character. Something that sets it apart from, let's say, a Honda Civic. This is why I went for triple Weber 45's, a flywheel that weights less than 10lbs, and my desired cam (more info on those later.) There's a certain character I want this motor to display, and I believe this build fits the bill just right. 3. Reliability. It might seem like an oxymoron, having a fast and reliable sports car motor, but I've seen time and time again how these motors, when built by true artists of their trade, can withstand almost anything you throw at them. My new motor will be running on pump gas, will idle smoothly and will barely break a sweat with the granny-like driving I put my Z through. Engine Specs: Bore/Stroke: 89mm/79mm Pistons: 29mm Kameari (280g) Rods: 139.5mm Kameari (~575g) Crankshaft: Polished, Stock L28 Camshaft: .290 Duration / .490 Lift Valves: New valves (stock size) Upgraded springs and retainers CR: ~10.5 to 11:1 Now, time for some photographs! Here's an album with all the photos I've gotten from Eiji thus far. I'll update it as the build continues: http://imgur.com/a/Fyqtv ORIGINAL POST: Dear Forums, I've been a long time lurker of these forums (along with Classic Z Cars) and of the community, but just recently, I've decided it was time I popped my Z cherry and got involved. I own a '77 280z (Motor has EFI; Transmission has 4 Gears) I'm currently working on another L28 that I picked up (Carbed, N42 Head)) along with a 5-Speed, but due to my lack of knowledge regarding these motors (We are a family of Ford Mustang owners) I seek your help in order to make sure this build isn't a total disaster. To start off, hello; My name is Mike I am 20 years old and I'm a computer tech. This is my first engine rebuild, so experience is not really something I have in my corner. Luckily, my brother and my dad are both mechanics, but they decided to pretty much leave me to learn how to swim in the ocean with this build. My goals for this motor are pretty simple and straight forward, but I would still love to get some help from some of you more knowledgeable L-Series petrol heads. Let me start by saying that I am not power hungry. We have the pony cars for that. What I want is a responsive motor, not a powerful one. Engine Goals (Might get redefined as I learn more about these L-series motors) 1. I would like to hit 200HP at the crank (Although not necessary) 2. I want the motor to be naturally aspirated. 3. I love the look and sound of triple Weber carbs. 4. I don't think I need a stroker motor to produce a descent amount of power, so unless it's necessary, I'd rather not go there. Things that I am considering (Please correct me if I'm wrong!) 1. Balancing the Crank 2. Lighter, flat-top pistons (I would like to keep the stock 86mm size) 3. Stock valves look good enough! Probably just stay with those. 4. I've read a few posts where people mentioned using L24 rods. Why is that? Weight? 5. A Mild performance Cam with upgraded springs. As I mentioned above, I'm just learning about these motors, so your help is very much appreciated. I'm gonna need all the knowledge I can get. This is the motor: So it started with this Time to clean! So that's pretty much it so far. Cheers guys, and thanks a lot for the help! Not that it matters much, but here is the car:
  2. Hey! Long time listener, first time caller! This will be my second Z project, my first is here http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-6/ my son and I had a great time preserving that car and selling it on bringatrailer.com was a fun experience. After having sold that one, I bought a former race car from a gentlemen in Michigan. Came complete with lots of spares and a nice trailer. My goal for this car is a plug and play streetable track car. Thinking 75% track car, 25% streetable car. Without loosing the ability to go back to SCCA ITS class racing if a new owner wants to do that. Open to suggestions as I go along and looking forward to sharing the progress with the group. Here are some pics in a google photos album that I'll be adding pictures to. https://goo.gl/photos/QHq85PJQmu3MSR9T9 Talk soon! Jamie
  3. So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes
  4. I searched and searched and searched endlessly to build a spreadsheet of what to buy before ever taking on this journey from the car to what I wanted in the drivetrain for approximately 2.5 years. Searching craigslist/copart/ebay endlessly until I ran across a deal in my budget for a $2k running driving Z car. This led me to Virginia and I bought this daily driver 1976 280Z with 168k miles and in fairly good shape. My uncle and I drove it home 300+ miles with dry rotted 10 year old tires and 40 year old bushings with a slight hint of white smoke under hard acceleration on the interstate! Then the build began"¦ This was in March of 2012 just after grabbing my BS in Civil Engineering from UT Knoxville in Dec of 2011. I didn't start buying until December of 2012 and I haven't stopped since haha[/font][/size] -First I had to figure out the dreaded fluid in the passenger floorboard...leaky heater control valve so I wound up using a Bronco heater valve 74628 (Advance Auto Parts), 2-90* hoses, spare pieces of 5/8" hose and some hose clamps to fix that right up. PITA to get to with stock heater core/ac junk in the way BTW. Future plans are JCI/Vintage Air! -Engine spec'd out to be cheaper for an LS1 pullout if I could find the right deal but after considering the fuel mileage gains and ease of finding another engine for less if it went south I went 5.3 all the way. Plus boost always sounds better for the future! I have a spreadsheet list for that too! -2002 5.3 from a Chevy Avalanche with 80k that ran good (or at least that's what the guy at the junkyard said!) -Drive by cable was my goal from the start to get a better "feel" for the car so I bought a new throttle body and used ls1 intake, fuel rails, oil pan/pickup tube, etc... But I kept the truck spacing on the accessories (cheaper). -Transmission, besides the car, this was the worst to find and ultimately I went with the TR6060 over the T56. -2011 Camaro SS TR6060 with 2k miles ($1600 with free head stud kit valued around $225) -TR6060 has more stock holding power than a T56, a trans cooling system, and supposedly shifts smoother -But the downsides are that it is more rare (1st in a LS-Z), fixed yoke rear, taller gears, & uses a remote shifter From then on out I used the "Documemtation" of how to swap an LS1 T56 combo into a Z car and along side other builds on HybridZ to get to where I'm at. From Cooling to the RT Diff Mount to the Fuel Cell Setup I've researched and stalked tons of pages to get where I'm at and asked a handful of questions. My hats off to the site and all who put their 2 cents in because it would've been harder without it for sure. If I can help anybody else that has questions just shoot me a message about the swap. HybridZ and LS1Tech are your best friends during this swap so use them! The 5.3 had no real issues as in tapping the alternator hole (I was scared to do this at first) or cutoff the protruding section from the side of the block but it cuts like butter with a saw. 11/32" Drill Bit & 10mm x 1.5 Tap. I did mine inside the car, so out or in it doesn't matter. My goal is to daily drive it to work to keep miles off my truck and to replace my burning passion for buying a new Vette since I bought a new '12 Duramax instead. So power upgrades are essential to fulfill my daily need for speed. Future dream plans are a turbo, beefed up rear, and A/C. But I'm not sure if they can all be satisfied together so we'll see or I may just go and build another with a 5.3/auto/turbo drag setup and leave the stick with a/c for autox/daily driving. Engine: -5.3L 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 80k Miles -JCI Engine Mount Kit -MSD Plugs 32829 (Truck Coil Setup) -LS1 Stock Throttle Body -LS1 Intake 12560688 -LS1 Oil Pan 12558899 (Oil Filter: PF46E AC Delco / M1-107 Mobil) -LS1 3 Pin MAF Sensor -LS1 Stock 26 lb/hr Injectors -LS1 Alternator Bracket + ¾" spacers -Tap 10mm-1.5 (Hanson 8340) and 11/32" Drill Bit for Alt Hole in Block -Ribbed Pulley Advance Auto (P/N: 89015) -EGR Block off Plug Dorman 1-3/8" -Lokar LS1 Throttle Cable 36" -Custom Intake Throttle Cable Bracket -Custom Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket -4" to 3.5" Elbow to 3.5" Cone Air Filter -Dayco 5060548 Serpentine Belt for Alternator Only Setup -Truck Crank Pulley, Water Pump, Alternator, & Belt Tensioner -TunedbyFrost for 93 Octane (+25-28rwhp) & P1336 Code Removal -LS1 Drivers Side Clamshell Motor Mount (5.3 one won't work) -LS1 Dipstick 12551581 and Dipstick Tube 12551577 Transmission: -TR6060 2011 Camaro SS 2k Miles -Custom Transmission Rear Mount to Frame Rails -Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid (4 Quarts) 01512 -Perma-Cool Hose Barb Fittings 11/32" to 6AN (P/N: 15265) -2 "“ 6AN 90* Elbow Female to Male Swivel Fittings (Route Cooling Lines) -Custom Remote Shifter Mount and Linkage Rod (DO NOT BOLT TO TRANS TUNNEL) -Tremec Shifter TKO600 New Takeoff -Pro 5.0 Shifter Lever + 6 Speed Shifter Ball -GM 4l60e to 6AN Fittings (P/N: 12055) Choice Motorsports LLC (+ C Clips) -Stock Camaro SS Trans Mount -*Reverse Lockout is the same plug for LT1-T56/LS1-T56/LS3-TR6060 Clutch: -Monster Stage 2 "“ 12" LS1 Clutch Package with clutch alignment tool etc"¦ -Chromoly Billet 18lb Flywheel -Tilton 75-875U (7/8") -48" SS Braided 4AN Clutch Line (TOOOO Long "“ go 36") Tilton to TR6060 -Tick Performance TR6060 Clutch Speed Bleeder (Just Do It) -Welded on Male 4AN Steel Bung to Slave Cylinder Steel Line In Bellhousing -GM AC Delco TR6060 Pilot Bearing 12557583 (NOT a T56 Bearing) Driveline: -GTOPL-2 Aluminum Fixed Yoke Driveshaft Adapter (1350 Size U-Joint) -Slip Driveshaft (Oliver's Driveshaft in NC) 1350 to 1310 (23-9/16" Long) -R200 Neapco Adapter 2-2-899-1 with a 1310 Size U-Joint (M8-1.25x35mm) -RT Diff Mount from Techno Versions LLC and Modified Prothane Bushing -R200 3.54 (Stock) Open Differential (1 Tire Fire!) -Modern Motorsports 300ZX Turbo Half Shaft Adapters (New) -1986 300ZX Turbo (84-89) CV Axles (New) Flipped Cages to Shorten -75w90 Diff Fluid Lucas 2 Quarts (2.75 Pints = 1.375 Quarts to Full) -Differential Overflow Tank Exhaust: -JCI Headers Used (Non Ceramic Coated) #DAT-405 (Used) -Dual 2.5" to the Rear of Trans/Driveshaft then Y into 3" out the back -Borla Muffler 40359 Pro XS 3" In/Out (almost identical size to stock muffler) Suspension: -Full Removal of All Suspension Front/Rear and Sanded/Painted -Full Poly Bushing Master Kit (Red) 7.18102R Hyper Flex -Tokico 5 Way Adjustable Springs(Red)/Struts(White) Combo -10w-30 Fluid Refilled in Stock Strut Cartridges -Rear Spindle Pins/Bushings Replaced By Previous Owner Recently!!! -KYB Dust Boots (Plastic) with Bump Stop (Not Strapped on the Bottom) Wheels/Tires/Brakes: -XXR 531's in 16x8 with +0 Offset (Black/Polished Lip) -Falken 225/50/16 with no rubbing on stock/tokico suspension -Stock Brake Calipers Cleaned and Painted Hi-Temp Red -Speed Bleeders on All Corners -Hawk HP Plus HB169N.560 Front Pads -Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (All 4) -New Front Rotors -Rear Drums Already Had New Pads Cooling: -3 Row Aluminum Direct Fit Radiator with Drain Plug -"˜93 Taurus/Sable (91-95) 2 Speed 3.8L Fan with Connector Plug -Stock 5.3 Hose Modified to Fit Upper Hose -22478 Gates Hose from Oreilly's for Lower Radiator Hose -New Factory 186* Thermostat + Housing (Built Together) -¾" and 5/8" Heater Hose Lines and a ¾ to 5/8 adapter -JTR Hose Tee with 5/16" Steam Barb and Air Bleeder -Radiator Overflow Tank Gauges/Wiring: -ChevyThunder.com Stand Alone CPU/Harness for 5.3/LS1 w/ OBDII+CEL -Speedhut 4" GPS Speedo 160MPH w/ Blinkers+High Beam GR4-GPS-05T -Speedhut 4" 8k RPM Tach (See Group Buy on Speedhut"¦) GR4-TACH-02 -Glowshift 2-1/16" Oil/Water/Fuel Gauges 7 Color LED -JEG's Fuel Pressure Gauge (on fuel rail at firewall) -Oil Gauge Pressure Sending Unit behind intake on top of motor -Water Gauge Sending Unit on rear of passenger head at the battery -Autometer 2277 "“ 12m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Water Temp Sensor to LS Pass Head -Autometer 2268 "“ 16m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Oil Press Sending Unit Plug Top Block -Brass 1/8" NPT 45* Fitting for Oil Pressure Sending Unit Aftermarket -8 Guage Red Wire From Alternator to Battery -Stinger 4 Maxi Fuse Holder and Appropriate Fuses for Year Model Fuel System: -15 Gallon Universal Fuel Cell w/ Built-In Sending Unit (0-90 Ohm) -Fuel Cell Hanging Mounts and Padding + Other Mounts -Fuel Filler Neck Behind License Plate -Flip Down License Plate Bracket -Vented Gas Cap -Dual 10AN on the rear of the Cell (10 to 8 reducer) -8AN Pushlock Hose to the 100 Micron 8AN Fuel Filter -Walbro GSL392 (255) Fuel Pump -Corvette C5 FPR WIX 33737 -6AN WIX FPR Fittings 640860, 640850, 640940 (Russell Fittings) -6AN Pushlock Hose From Pump to FPR -6AN Pushlock Hose From FPR to Fuel Rails & FPR to Tank Return -Fuel Line Holder Clips with Rubber to Run Fuel Lines -LS1 Fuel Rail 3/8" Hardline to 6AN Push-On Fitting is RUS640850 -Stock LS1 Injectors 26 lb/hr -*6AN Size Fuel Line is good for up to 450HP -16' of 6AN and 3' of 8AN Push Lock Hose Recommended Tools: (besides the usual ones"¦I had to buy/borrow these) -Engine Hoist 1 Ton (Harbor Freight $105) -Load Leveler (Harbor Freight $20) -Torque Wrench (Mainly for Clutch Install) -Slide Hammer (Harbor Freight $15 for Stub Axle Removal) -Mig Welder (Lincoln Electric 140HD + Mig Gas $700 total) -Brake Line Wrench (Craftsman 10mm/12mm $10) -Spare Sets of Wrenches in Metric (Whole Car is 10/12/14mm"¦) Issues/Advice: -Crankshaft Relearn Procedure P1336 "“ It cannot be completed unless a factory setup is in place and I did not have this so I went ahead and had Frost tune that code out. The engine will try to run properly but won't let itself until this is done even though the crankshaft is mechanical. Other than that the engine ran flawlessly from ChevyThunder's harness. This procedure is popping up only if the computer and engine did not match from the factory and I did not get the CPU with the engine. Next time I will. -Do NOT cut anything off of the Datsun harness until the project is fully running and it all works, ask me how I know... I had to fight a couple of electrical gremlins that were working just fine before I took out the motor and they didn't once I was ready to drive"¦like brake lights and interior everything electrical, but the headlights, blinkers, stand alone engine and the gauges worked flawlessly. -I'd go 2-5/8" on the triple gauges. Mine look too small personally but they're fine and it's too late now -80 or 100 Micron Filter before the Walbro is mandatory but my 30 Micron did fine but supposedly too restrictive. -Upgrade the suspension/bushings like I did and redo all supporting components while they're easy to get to. -My clutch is actually for an LS1 T56 setup but works with what I have so there's my 2 cents"¦buy the trans first not the parts that go in it. They were having a new years sale and I just knew I'd be putting in a T56"¦ Push button momentary switch wired for the reverse lockout solenoid because my harness was made for a T56 and I am using a GPS speedo not the VSS. 3 amp fuse and a switch from RadioShack and it works good. Keeps me from going into reverse on a 6-5 downshift. It does literally take two hands to jam it in reverse without the solenoid activated and that will not mess it up because it's only a spring pushing back. More TR6060 downsides I'm coming aware of now that it's driveable, theres a slight clanging inside the trans when you let out of the clutch while it's in neutral. Apparently all 5th Gen Camaros have this from what I read even brand new ones with no miles on them (not just GM TR6060's either). It's a factory sound and slight vibration in the shifter (get a loud exhaust or a good stereo!). Another issue with buying a TR6060 are the batch of factory defective transmissions, which are serial numbers 0-25000 which have a weak main shaft that's not heat treated like the new ones and an issue about not having an output shaft bearing installed. This has been well known to modified 2010's and some 2011 cars that are manual that have broken with superchargers installed and even bone stock 436hp levels. I was unlucky and my serial is 24302... So since I'm going to only have low 300's for horsepower right now I'll be fine but in the future a main shaft upgrade will be necessary. Main shaft (stock) is good for up to 475hp from what I've read. Gearing is another aspect in transmissions that I was curious about as well... LS1 T56 - 2.66 , 1.78 , 1.3 , 1.0 , 0.74 , 0.50 (not GTO ratios) TR6060 - 3.01 , 2.07 , 1.43 , 1.0 , 0.84 , 0.57 Grand total costing me around $14k including the car. That includes a few screw ups, new GM 10.9 bolts everywhere, high end fluids/gaskets, and quality parts to make sure they will not fail during daily use. Most all the parts I bought were brand new unless it wasn't critical like the used headers. It took me approximately 1 year to do it all but could've been done in half the time if I dedicated more time to it. If I can figure out the picture situation I'll load some on here but until then all my pics are on Flickr via my signature below. Thanks Travis
  5. Gather around folks I'm building my dream car. Some may know me here, some may not. I've been building nissans for 15 years now. My last personal build started in 2009 on this forum but I stopped documenting after 2011. I just sold my entire setup to my best friend, which I also sold my 2nd 240z too. So I'm starting to document a new chapter in my build. I tore down my black car and we are completely rebuilding my friends orange one better than ever. The original setup was amazing, never let me down. R34 NEO motor, GT35R, Tein coilovers with edfc, clsd, axles, wilwoods.... etc. This brings us to my new build and it's current state on my rotisserie waiting to get massacred. I'll post some photos and get this ball rolling Donor car was an ever so gracious R33 GTR Vpec, 90% of parts came from the same car. I will be grafting front and rear sub frames into my Z chassis, including the AWD system, Brembos, suspensions (tein), Axles, Diff, etc from the GTR... I've even gone ahead and gotten the GTR pedel set and Master so she should feel as GTR as possible from inside. Steering column, steering rack all modern and hydraulic (and left hand drive ) I've collected 90% of the bizarre hardware associated with the awd system too. Also will be doing GTR gauges, chassis strengthening, new wiring, wheels, so on and so forth.... My old car was quite the track beast, I intend to make this one deadlier than ever. More so I just love building so I'm doing it Grab some popcorn, this ones going to take a minute!
  6. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  7. About me I don't want to go too in depth and bore anyone, so feel free to skip. lol My name is Kyle. I'm from Oregon City, Oregon. I'm in the USAF so that's why I am in CA. My current car is a 2008 Honda Accord V6 Manual 6 speed. It's a fantastic and very reliable car. Nice interior and sleek looking exterior. Just a good all around daily. And its the first car I have driven with a stick, and boy did I love it! I have spent a couple years with it, but after increasing its power steadily, I realized the limits and problems with a forward driven car. Not to mention the absolute BS that is California smog. I was at the point of either spend the money on a power adder, or a new car. I decided it wasn't worth pouring more money into a car that had such limitations. Especially in size and weight, she just wasn't very good in the twisties and back roads, so I decided I wanted a Rear driven pre- 1975 car. After a length of time searching, I couldn't believe what an awesome find a 240z was! A small, lightweight, Japanese car, pre- 75, endless parts, huge forum support, the list goes on! I was sold! The Car While on leave back in Oregon for a week, after 3 months of searching for a good deal on a 240z, one popped up for sale for $3,500. Super cheap! It was a 1972 240z with a Chevy small block V8, with a 3 speed automatic. A lot of people had interest, so decided I was done searching, and ready to start building; I bought her outright. Here is the AD: The Good -V8 Swap -The Trunk area, engine bay, and I (hope) under fenders were sprayed with bedliner -Body panels are straight -Badge and side marker light delete -Its a 240z The Bad (As I have quickly, or slowly discovered) -The paint is awful, and needs to be redone (Huge amount peeling) -The windshield wiper doesn't work -The heater doesn't work -The Air Blower doesn't work -The dash was cracked in multiple places -The passenger door was missing the interior panel -The engine, differential, and transmission were pissing oil -The hatch strut was blown -The lights were all extremely dim -The car got less than 8 MPG -Seats are cheap aftermarket ones. Fit nice though actually -You have to SLAM. And I mean SLAM the doors to get them to shut. I'm scared I'll shatter the glass! -The passenger window won't roll down -Probably a lot more I'm forgetting So yes, the car needed work. A lot of it. Was it awesome to drive and own a V8 car? Yes. Yes it was. I only had a few days of leave left, and I sadly realized I couldn't take her with me. Especially with the gas mileage at aircraft carrier fuel consumption rates. On the last night, I took my friend out for a spin, and very soon after leaving the driveway we could smell something burning. It was too foggy to drive fast, so we turned around and went home. I ended up leaving the car at my friends garage, which happens to live only a couple houses down from my dads. Here is the car next to his yellow V6 Mustang: We pulled the windshield wiper motor, the dashboard, the heater blower assembly, cut out random disconnected (and unsafe) wires and taped them up, and cleaned and vacuumed any debris. I loaded the dashboard and wire harness into my car to take back to Cali so I could be somewhat productive for the next 6+ months. Later my friend discovered that the wire harness caught fire in the engine bay! And the harness I had, was melted in multiple places. I decided to scrap it. I will need an entirely new wire harness. What I have been doing Research. Researching like a crazy person. I have also been buying parts like crazy and shipping them to Oregon. Since I'm stuck here, I: -Fixed the Dash Cracks / Sanded / Painted -New Vents -New glove box setup and badge -Autometer gauges -Realized the wire harness I had was hopeless after attempting repair My Friend has been inspecting parts that I send him, and tinkering on the car. -Sold Engine / Tranny / Radiator / exhaust for 750.00 -Sold Bumper -Sold Fuel tank Has a total of 1k. So the car as a roller was 2,500. Even cheaper! What Happens Now I am taking 30 days of leave starting on 20July2016. I plan to: -Sell the Honda -Engine Swap the Z to an LS motor. -Make the 240z my new DD. Here is the car as it is today. My friend installed the $420.00 Fender Mirrors, and there is the photo of the horrible quality Retro-Spec spoiler sitting on the hatch just to see what it looks like: That's it for now. Later I will post shots of my excel sheet of costs, future plans, ect.
  8. Hey guys, not sure if there will be any interest but I want to post up my build here just so I can look back through it for whatever reason. I am starting with an almost completely rust free 240z I picked up for a decent price here in phoenix and have plans to daily it, more or less stance, and eventually make it a nice little track rat I won't feel bad about beating up on when I go road racing. Just recently sold my c5 Corvette after feeling bad about beating it up around the track and the high expenses of everything motor and trans wise so I found this and immediately knew I was going to have a blast driving it (outside of summer, it just got to 115 F here . Working outside yesterday in that was NOT fun. Bought the car a few weeks ago and it was running and driving, albeit it smokes a little which I think is because it is running very rich, and the radiator leaked so I couldn't drive it before buying, just hear it run. Body is in great shape with the exception of the roof which has some dents. Don't ask me how they got there I have no clue haha. Guessing it wasn't treated right as there is a trucker lady front license vanity thing, HUTCH written on the back, and mud flaps when I got it.. Here are the pics of where I first got it and then of me using my first AAA tow. I was amazed at how fast they got there to pick it up! Definitely hasn't been moved in a while, but that will change! First order of business was getting it running and making sure it wouldn't overheat in the brutal Arizona summers. I originally was going to get the original radiator fixed and save me some money. $75 to clean it and get it going so I figured sure why not, save myself some money. Got called back and apparently it would be another $125 to rod it out... so $200 into an old brass radiator when I can get a nice aluminum 3 core for $140. Easiest decision ever! decided now is a good time to put new hoses on as well and I found these gems... Totally rotted out and broken.. so time for a new replacement! Ordered those in along with a new thermostat and were ready to go!... or not. Temp gauge wasn't working so after checking all the wiring I found the gauge was bad and more than likely the sender too. So after trying to get it out unsuccessfully, sorry no pics of this, It was so badly gouged I needed a new lower thermostat housing and temp sender. Yay! Got those in and found a 280z gauge on craigslist and swapped out the front so it would fit behind the cluster like my original gauge and then now we have temp! Does not overheat! I will not mess with cars that overheat, after having severe issues with my big block cutlass and a number of other cars, it just isn't something I like to touch anymore. After this I decided it was time to get keys for the car as I was given none when I bought it. Looking online and at local auto part stores I was not able to find any door lock cylinders for a 240z that could get here in a reasonable amount of time and I was not about to spend bookoo bucks on a full complete set. SO I found that lock cylinders from a 80's 510 fit perfectly if you do very minor work to it. I can take pictures of this if anyone is interested in a cheap way to get new door locks. Onto the hatch lock... I was able to take it out and find a guy on craigslist who makes keys by feel alone! He had a few blanks and a file and in under 10mins made a perfect key for my trunk. What an art! I now have a car I can start and lock Here is a few more pictures of the car and a pic of the seat I will be putting in it out of my c5. Sparco Sprint V and I fit SNUG. Totally holds you in around corners. The old seats are roached and this will be perfect. I will be making a bracket soon to fit in in. I also took the rear bumper off and cut the ridiculously long muffler off! I've always loved the look of ZG flares and only ever had deep dish wheels on one other car and those only had around a 2 ish inch lip so this time I wanted much more. I had thought about getting diamond racing steelies and ZG flares but there are already so many of them and being as cheap as I am there had to be another way. I was able to find some Eagle 028's for $130 on craigslist off of a Cherokee and they had the dish I was craving! I was hoping they could just be redrilled to 4x4.5 but they already had so many bolt holes there was no room to drill. These are 15x10 with -44 offset (3.5 backspacing or 3.25 I forget exactly). They stick out quite a bit! I decided I am either going to spend a lot of money on rims that I like that fit or spend a little bit more on 5 lug swapping the car. I like the 5 lug look a little more anyways and this would let me inspect a the car a little more and keep me occupied over the summer. I have some of the extra wide ZG flares and 5 lug front hubs on order and they should be in soon! I will be taking pics of the rear soon. For the rear the drums were shot and I don't want to get old drums redrilled. After looking at the prices of how much new drums and pads were.. around $150. Thats assuming everything else was still good. Not going to happen. I decided a disc brake conversion was in order. I bought new rotors for $22 each, both front calipers off a 1985 Maxima for $15 and $6 for some 1/8 inch sheet metal. Just finished building the bracket and it looks... interesting.. but it will work and hold everything exactly where it needs to be. Only downside to this is I no longer have an E-Brake. Which to me is a plus because I would just pull it and try to do something stupid anyways.. Another forum member Jmai86 I believe did a coilover conversion using cheap ebay Emusa coils and that is the option I will be doing. They are on order and should be in soon and I can take pics of the conversion as well if anyone is interested. I can post pics of the disc brake conversion as well if anyone wants to convert the rear to disc for under $100 depending on how much the proportioning valve runs me I should be able to keep it right around there. Also just got my tires in! 225/50/15 khumo ecsta. $86 each from online and they look cool. Will post pics soon. Actually a very minor stretch, I wish I went to 205/50/15s to be honest. Cheaper tires like $50 each so thats a plus. Well I will go take a few more pictures of the conversion and the tires all mounted and interior stuff. Let me know if you guys want to see more or any questions and if there is interest I will post the build as it happens!
  9. 1971 Kirin Z

    1971 240z "Kirin" Hi there! This is going to be my little Z build. Picked her up as a gift to myself after coming back from Japan. Today she sits eagerly awaiting to be fixed up and driven. After months of sitting I decided it was about time to get a move on it, so here we go! Last Updated: Dec 1st, 2016 - added a couple notes to self May 21st, 2016: Got it running after sitting for 9 months! Now it's sitting again -- Crank Keyway worn-out Note to Readers: I've linked most of the things I've purchased with their part number and a website. If you see something that isn't linked, or want to know where I purchased something, let me know! Exterior -Chassis: rusted -Body: dented steel panels, cracked fiberglass head buckets -Bumper: deleted rear bumper, ugly stock front still installed -Spoiler: Fairlady 432R Reproduction -Grill: Fairlady Z432 Reproduction (1 tuff z) -Paint : 918 Orange (original) -Misc: (order weatherstripping you lazy fool!) / (research rust prevention) / (research body work & paint) Interior Everything was stripped! Lend me your dry ice... Electrical -Battery: New Battery - Optima Red Top 25 / Autozone Universal Battery Mount / (correct size battery cables) -Alternator: upgraded alternator - 140Amp -Wiring Harness: stock (order pretty rainbow colored one - EZ) -Audio: no stereo -Lights: Headlights: Dapper Lighting 7" Classic V2 + White LED Halo (Halogen) / Tail lights: Dapper Lighting Sequential LED -Gauges: stock -Switches: stock -Sensors: Crank Pulley Flying-Magnets system -Ignition System: Distributor-less Simple Digital System Coil Pack Ignition -Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs (PN 739-BPR6EIX) -Spark Plug Wires: 8mm Street Thunder; Spark Plug Wire; Custom Fit 6 cyl.; Black (PN 895-51090) (soon to be removed) -Misc: deleted external voltage regulator / (research windshield wiper motor) Engine & Exhaust - Acc. Belt: Napa (PN _____ ) -Intake Manifold: Mangoletsi -Carburetor(s): Triple Dellorto DHLA 45M -Jets: -Air Filter: K&N re-usable air filter (x3) -Cam: stock? not sure -Block: P30 L24 (Matching #'s) -Head: E31 - Ported (size) -Distributor: stock (delete & plug) -PCV Valve: Valve Cover Breather PCV K&N (PN 800-613) / Crankcase Vent Breather Filter PCV K&N (PN 800-406) (re-route to exhaust) -Exhaust: (research heat shield) -Misc: deleted random wires and screws in engine bay Cooling / Fuel / Oil -Radiator & Plumbing: Mishimoto radiator (PN MMRAD-DATS-70) / Upper & Lower Mishimoto radiator hoses (PN MMHOSE-DATS-70) / 1.75" Mishimoto radiator Tension Clamps / (install custom overflow tank) / (research fan shroud) -Thermostat: 160 degree thermostat & new gasket / 1/4" BSPT Alloy Steel Hex Plug w/ Plumbing tape (x1) -Fan: stock (order electric fan(s) x2) -Water Pump: stock (order gasket) -Misc: deleted manifold / carb coolant line & plugged thermostat housing hole / rotated 90 Deg elbow towards water pump - new 5/8" rubber hose [on order] hose brackets --- -Fuel Tank: stock (research fuel cell) -Fuel Pump: stock (research electrical/mech) -Fuel Regulator: none (research bypass 4+ PSI w/ gauge adapter) -Fuel Filter: Autozone (generic) -Fuel Rail: (removed) -Choke: stock (need to tuck) -Misc: new fuel sending unit, o-ring & lock ring --- -Oil Filter: Fram (size) -Oil Pan: stock -Misc: n/a Suspension / Tires & Brakes -Axels: -Suspension & Steering: clunk. clunk. clunk. -Braking System: I'll eventually stop..(all stock) -Rims: -Tires: cheap Goodyears (insert size) -Misc: n/a Drivetrain -Clutch: custom clutch hardline (3/8-24NPT to M10/1.0) -Master Cylinder: Tilton-76 7/8" Master cylinder (PN 76-875) / adapter (3/8-24NPT double flare to 3/8-24NPT bubble flare) / Girling reservoir, offset 7/16-20 outlet, 5oz -Slave Cylinder: Beck Arnley slave cylinder (PN 072-1258) w/ adjustable rod & return spring / SS clutch hose (PN 21-2170) (order mounting shims) -Throttle System: -Transmission: '77-80 "wide ratio" 5-speed -Differential: not sure yet -Misc: n/a Miscellaneous -AC: none -Heating System: deleted -Bolts: Replacing all bolts with ZCarDepot SS Bolt Kit (PN 650-000) -Hoses: Replaced most fuel vent hoses Going to have to backtrack a little, I hope you don't mind...
  10. 240z L28et Build

    Hi all, This is my first post on this forum. I have a 1970 240z that I am currently working. I am picking up an L28et as well as a 5 speed transmission from a 1983 280zx. I am looking to get a good amount of power out of this engine (around 450+ whp). After hours of research I have come up with the following L28et P90 head- port and polish dewebbed intake manifold JE forged flat top pistons (raise compression to 8:5:1) Injector 550cc Holset hx35 turbo Fuel rail? Depends what's out there Stand alone megasquirt ecu Differential 3.9 or 4.11 r180 3" exhaust I know I am missing a few things but I just wanted to get your guys input. I am new to these engines so please bear with me. Thanks.
  11. Ford Build Links

    Quick Reference Sheet of Ford Z Build ups, PM me to add more to the list, or to update erroneous info. Ford Modular Motor Swaps (4.6L, 5.4L): 1978 280z + SOHC/DOHC 4.6 (yellowoctupus on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97812-460zgt-project-build/ DOHC 240z on Ratsun (abandoned?) http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54796-1974-260z-46dohc/ DOHC Lincoln 4.6 + 240z 'Vert (PnyPwr on HybridZ ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47019-anyone-else-doing-a-46-4v-into-a-240/ 4.6 SOHC 280zx (RichRacing on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96496-project-460zx/ 2001 Cobra + 280z (abandoned?)(4.6 Cobra Z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121534-46-dohc-280z/ 4.6 Mark VIII / Cobra + 76 280z (Mitchnandy on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/user/2167-mitchnandy Mark VIII DOHC +240z Swap (Northeredave on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100949-46l-ford-dohc-modular-motor-in-my-240z/ Greg's 240z + 2001 Cobra DOHC (abandoned?)(gls355 on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113828-46-dohc-svt-in-a-240z-here-we-go/ Ford Windsor Engines (289, 302, 351w, etc) Brian Laine's well documented 302 Conversion http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm Terry Oxandale's 5.0 (No pictures, lots of info) (BlueovalZ on HybridZ) http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/index.html Terry Oxandale's Pictures http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9&userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9 Pete Papriska's 5.0 Writeup (pparaska on HybridZ) http://alteredz.com/ Dan's 74 5.0 Swap (74_5.0L_Z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/user/30-74-50l-z/ 351w Fits (gene_w on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/32159-alsils-mounts-with-a-351w/ Kris' 302 Swap http://datsun.getyours.com/default.htm Old 5.0 Swap, dead links, lots of info still.. (JoshB 240z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/20535-50l-install-with-pics/ Mark's 260z in Japan (74.5 347z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/user/266-745-347z/ Mark's Motor Mount Design (74.5 347z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/1336572473/gallery_266_1021_62705.jpg Greg Wheeler's 5.0 240z (gwheeler on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/71855-fs-1972-240z-with-ford-v8-in-portland-or/?do=findComment&comment=682087 Greg's 500z photobucket pictures (gwheeler on HybridZ) http://s237.photobucket.com/user/g_wheeler2001/library/Project%20500Z?sort=3&page=1 Steve Todkill's photobucket pics (unfinished?) (s3079893 on HybridZ) http://photobucket.com/albums/d34/s3079893/?sc=1 Mike '77 + 302 (dead link??)(Rival5 on HybridZ) http://206.169.90.30/mike/view_album.php?set_albumName=Z-Project Al Silveria's notes (Alsil on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/10559-so-all-i-gotta-do-is-fab-some-50-motor-mounts/?p=76947 Ali's 5.0 '77 (MY77Z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51750-500z-progress-photos/ '70 240 + 302 (er34gtt2000jp on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/53314-had-to-post-our-sbf-project/ SBF Swap (stangracr on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61369-new-pictures-sbf/ SBF Swap 2 (stangracr on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62818-new-pictures/ Nick's 240 + 5.0 Cobra (TheNick on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63662-new-project-240z-cobra/ Dart Block in a 240z (lilredz on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62941-shes-runnintoo-bad-its-raining-for-2-weeks/ '77 + 302 (Capt_Zorro on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29043-photos-of-my-77-z/ '78 + FI 5.0 *Sold* (JustChou on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85022-78-280z-with-injected-ford-302-50-swap-norcal/ 75 302 +73 240z - Engine Mount info... (ukcats07 on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91886-redesigned-my-cradlemount-setup-pics/ 302 Swap (Shemyazaz on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108307-280z-302/ 76 +302 (NateDaGreat on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112712-302-v8/?p=1057290 302 + 71 240z (ottoauto on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90729-just-picked-up-my-first-v8-240z/ 240z + 68 302 (akaryrye on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90018-just-bought-a-240z-w-a-ford-engine/ 260z + 5.0 FI (V8INtheZ on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72463-started-my-2nd-v8-s30project-mongoose/?do=findComment&comment=688497 302 + 240z (josephg on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88770-thinking-back-about-my-flywheel-install/?do=findComment&comment=843110 260z + 89 5.0 Megasquirt (Zhunter on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121944-50-260z-startup/ 351w + 260z (Ga. Piddler on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48582-351z/ 86 280zx + 351w (86350zx on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120301-my-z8-build-lots-of-pics/ 240z + 87 5.0 FI (timothyblythe240z on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121510-347-z/ '77 280z + 5.0 (Bubbadog127 on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114763-50-cobra-280z/ Scott Holcombe's 5.0 75 280z (PalmettoZ on HybridZ) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98769-brian-lanes-302-kit/ The following are Missing Build Post Links, please email me if you have info, pictures, links etc... 387 Clevor No build post yet? ((LMoore56 on HybridZ)) 2.3L + ?? Build Post Missing ?? ((V8INtheZ on HybridZ)) Mike Gibson ((SCCA on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((The Woj on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Hitman47 on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Beau M on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Roamer on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((WHP on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Ferd/289 on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Just Jim on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((Sven on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((ecp48 on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...((rudypoochris on HybridZ)) Missing Build Post Link...'72 240Z 302/C4 ((Just Jim on HybridZ))
  12. So I started this project back in October but I figured it's time throw it out there and see what everyone has to say. 1975 280z turbo lsx th400 8.8 swap. Found this beauty in a car port coupe miles away Taking her home Didn't hesitate to start pulling her apart Motor out Jci mounts came in Start on the energy bushings First mock up, can't wait till it's for real Stated pulling the motor apart for new bearings and new guts All the go fast toys are starting to stack up, better start putting them on Gutted bay, ready for clean up Well I won't be needing this anymore In with the new Motor finally coming back together with some new goodies Billet rails turned out great Finally back in, time to start the fun part Poor man's tacking skills Well that escalated quickly Just a little street car. Hey it fits! More to follow soon, gonna be gone for about a month, but I'll be full throttle as soon as I return.
  13. Complete RB20 dimensions

    I need help getting dimensions for a few parts of an RB20. I currently don't have one or have the current funding to buy one. So I need help to get the following dimensions: cylinder head intake ports, cylinder head valves, cylinder head intake manifold bolt pattern, cylinder placement on block, and spark plug placement on cylinder head. I know I just need to get my hands on one but thats not to easy in the USA. This is so I can make a basic 3D soildworks model to run some solidworks simulations for both of my current projects. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you.
  14. Hello Everyone! My name is Tate, I'm 16 years old, and this my 1983 S130 Turbo! I purchased the car 6 months ago with my own money that I had saved up from my job at a local pizza parlor. I saw the Z on craigslist for $2k and I had to get it. When I first got it...I knew nothing about how a car worked or what the hell a turbo was. The previous owner had installed an AEM Methanol Injection Kit (which I'm currently running water in...I know my turbo thanks me for that.) He also had installed an AEM Boost Controller with the setting set to 14psi on the stock Garret AiResearch T3 Turbo. I haven't changed it since I bought the car and I don't plan to. I know I don't have an intercooler yet and that I'm still on stock injectors...all very bad things to do with a high Psi setting on a stock turbo but that will all change soon. I actually just purchased an intercooler kit from CXR Racing. The best part about this car...only 75k orginal miles. I have done all the body work and painting myself on this car, as well as putting on the new wheels and tires and other upgrades. I have purchased everything myself and I can't wait to get her up to the high 300 range of whp...that is, if the Xenon S130 L28ET guide isn't lying to me (; I'm very proud of myself and this Z is nowhere near done...so please stay tuned and follow my progress! Here is what the Z first looked like when I bought it...God, I don't even know how I thought that ugly ass wing and those turbo decals were attractive... I still have this Center Tail Light panel by the way if anyone wants it...I know they are pretty rare. The first modification I did was rip out all the ugly 80's maroon interior and respray everything gloss black because #racecar Then I took off that ugly wing that worked better as a lunch table and order a custom JDM Plate Yeah....maybe I should move that JDM Plate to the front... But first...let me paint my tailights black... Here are some front shots I took... My buddy who has an R8 met up with me... Then one day...it dawned on me. I HATE THIS UGLY FADED 80's RED. LET'S MAKE THIS CAR RATTY. SO I DID. First...I resprayed the whole thing in primer grey... It was better...but I still wasn't loving it. My wheel and tire choice bothered me. It didn't scream agressive...it whispered "please don't hurt me." Not my thing. YES I KNOW THEY ARE EPSILONS BUT THEY WERE SO HORRIBLY CURBED FROM THE PREVIOUS OWNER I HATED THEM ANYWAY. So I traded with my buddy for some nice 'hipari' 195/55 tires and some pretty sweet steelies. Mmmmm....MUCH BETTER. Group Photo with me and my JDM Buddies... Fixed the JDM Plate by the way...(: It still wasn't doing it for me though...something was missing. I had seen something on, HybridZ...at least I think was HybridZ...where some dude with an s130 bought a Victory Spoiler for an s30 and put it on there...it looked pretty good and he said it fit fine. Good enough for me. SO I went down to MSA and demanded that they sell me an s30 Victory Spoiler...however to my dissapointment they were out. SO I got a BRE one instead. The salesman at MSA said "Are you sure you know what you're doing kid?" And I said "No but I saw it on HybridZ so, I'm sure I can figure it out." AND BAM IT LOOKS SO GOOD. Then I decided...hmmm...I've had it primed for the longest time...maybe I should try painting it black myself... Yeah...bad idea. You can't tell in the photo but I did a really shitty job. So I decided to do what any 16 year old boy would do...rat it out again. The new paint you're about to see is heavily inspired by Gage Kerr's 280z. That thing is so flipping sweet... Then I got my tsurikawa chain...a real one from Japan...because honestly, I love shakotan and bosozoku culture. I also got this sweet windshield banner made that says "party gang" in Japanese. It is the name of the car club that me and my friends created. Got my Crown Royal shift boot... GALLARDO And this is the most recent photo I have of her...taken today...stay tuned for more progress! Love it or hate it...I really don't care. This is my Z and I love what I've done to it!
  15. Dads old Z

    Hey Zers, My Dad passed a little over a year ago and in doing so, told me to take care of his old Z. its an 82 280zx n/a. well,i didn't no to much about cars at the time but i know he said to keep the engine that was in it (didn't have to be stock). so after much reading and tons of "old Mechanic" advice,iv since rebuilt the entire engine. here is what i have done "surprisingly my self" so far.... Head (work done by Rebello) - N42 head, bigger valves,port,polished,some work done to the galleys for coolant and oil. Valve Train - Custom cam 512 Lift, 300 Duration, Stiff springs, new Rocker Arms/Lash pads.new timing sprocket/chain. Block- 0.60 over,JE Flat Top Pistons,Lightened and balanced crankshaft,new Barrings. CR- just at or slightly under 11:1 on 93 Octane, Timing *19 Int and *38 Full at WOT. (No Ping!) 220-240 psi Ignition- Modified Distributor (New Dizzy and Dizzy shaft), Full MSD 6AL-2 Ignition with Blaster-2 Coil Intake- Triple 44 Mikuni Carburetors Exhaust- MSA 3-2-1 Headers into a 2.75 inch,no Cat,Dynojet Ultra flow muffler. Drive Train- Auto to N/A 1983 5 speed,Aluminum flywheel/Drive-shaft, R200 4.11 Differential from 200sx Other- Turbo oil pump,new alternator, new battery,New *Champion 4 core Aluminum Radiator, Tires- Rear : 245-60-14 fronts are 205-60-14 -- Well that's pretty much it.i gutted the dash,all A/C HVAC stuff,no spare tire,12lb race seats,11lb CF hood, Custom Aluminum bumpers (look stock),all digital oil,fuel.air ratio,volts gauges.Steel pillar louvers from 81' ZX as well as the 130mph speedo. I havent had it on a dyno yet for max tuning or ran the track but it takes my buddies mildly modified 86' FoxBody Stang all day until i hit 135-140 mph,then wind resistance goes to s**t..but i can max out my speed around 6,800 in 5th gear,7,000 with some tuning im sure. 0-60 times are crazy,1st hits 38mph like intantly and 2nd hits 58mph not much slower,3rd hits around 80 pretty fast,4th is like my OLD 3rd but tops around 110-115 (speedo isnt to accurate around 100 so) 5th pulls nice all the way to redline. Post comments and let me know what you think. Estamated HP? P.S- Going from my auto gear of 3.54 to the 200sx diffy of 4.11 was an incredibly large difference in acceleration,car sounds like a F*****g Indie car lol! also vary streetable with the big cam and lower geared diff. wasn't to fun on the street with the 3.54 and that cam profile.
  16. Hey, new to this forum, so sorry if i do not post this in the correct place. I just purchased a 280zx 2+2 that is in pretty poor condition. No rust or anything, but the whole interior was shot, and no keys to the vehicle. I also believe that all the wiring was shot on it. So I started ripping out all the interior upholstery, which is now finished. I don't have a whole lot of money so now I"m posed with the question: Rebuild the stock L28ET or buy an engine to swap into it. + So that's what I am wondering. I'm not that good with engines but I'm willing to learn, and I'm very excited to see what you guys have to say on this. Also, this 280 is going to be a drift car, so there is no intention on putting it on the street, or having things that are street legal on it. I'm hoping to get a running turbo charged engine in it soon, but for now I'm working on interior safety and cosmetics until i get some help on the engine plan. Please help! It will be much appreciated. Update 7/5/2014 : full car is gutted and I've been engine shopping. I don't have tons of money but everyone who doesn't say drop a 350 in it says that the rb26det is the way to go, so its looking like that. Although, i think my engine is salvage able i just don't know how to build it back up! so here are 10 photos from when i first bought the car, ill try to put all of 'em in there. Still, no replies and I'm struggling here guys. Please help.
  17. Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo
  18. So, as many of you can already assume, I'm Greg and I've owned a 1978 280z for a little over a month. Although my time with the car has been short, many plans are in place to replace and restore many parts. Currently, the plan is to do the notorious LS1 engine swap, lowered on Stance Coilovers, STR 514 wheels (17x9 square with a 3.5 inch machined lip), ZG Wide Flares, etc. but first, body work is the first priority on my list. From the day I first bought the car, little changes have been made to the car...
  19. Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
  20. So I've been forum lurking for a while here now, and reading up on turbo L28 builds, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some questions I have as I have never really done much work on my own cars before and I'd like to start. I'm basically gonna copy and paste what Gollum wrote in response to another post to let you guys know where I'm starting at. I'd just like to get some recommendations and definite answers on what I need/should purchase and in what order. I don't think my goals are to outrageous I'd just like my care to be moderately fast. Is this a street car? Daily driver Will it see track use? It's possible What kind of budget are we talking about? I'm hoping to spend less than $3000 What kind of level of performance are we talking about? I'm trying to get around 230hp to the wheels. Fast as a new mustang? Fast as a Corvette? Fast as an enzo? Looking to hit 0-60 around 6 seconds What's your experience level? Basic Have you done engine swaps before? No Can you weld? No Rebuilt a motor before? Yes What access to tools do you have? A pretty good variety Have a cherry picker? Yes Welder? No Grinder? No Decent Bench? Yes Assortment of jacks and stands? Yes Basic list of parts I'd suggest: Was wondering if you could give me some pricing on what I should pay for these parts used or new Gollum suggested. Turbo manifold Turbo (T3/T4 hybrid works well for a street setup) 300cc+ injectors, 400+ preferred Any 'ol intercooler that fits Turbo intake will make integration with HVAC easier 36-1 Trigger wheel + Sensor MS 2, or 3 Coils (LSx work great, or EDIS-6 is fine too) MS Wire Harness Laptop with serial port Manual Boost Controller I'm getting my car dyno'd soon to see where I'm starting at. Do I need to do a head swap on my L28 to turbo it or can I just slap a manifold on with a turbo? Are dished pistons required? Do I need a turbo downpipe and exhaust? Do I need a stronger rear end or anything else? I know my questions will probably sound overly simple to you, I have a tendency to over think things. I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me. I think I have some pretty reasonable goals with a pretty decent budget. I'd prefer to avoid a head swap if I can as I'm low on time due to my work schedule. Thanks
  21. So I finally got my hands on an early 74 260z. I've had several z31's and an s130 so I'm not new to the z game... I just have some things I need advice on. I received a solid rolling chassis, boxes of parts and one l28 na (n42 block and n47 head) that has an l26 intake and what looks to be earlier SU carbs. I also received an l28t (f54 block and p90 head) that's missing the turbo but not down pipe... I was told both were good engines turbo coming out of a wrecked car with right at 100k, and na being an l26 (incorrect) that was a fresher bottom end. So let me drop in a few pics to keep some attention... Original color, Ok now for the questions, I'd like to build the na block with higher compression. I'm coming across conflicting info... Can I pick up some flat top pistons and that up the compression to around 10 to 1? Along with a lumpy cam (not so much to sacrifice power or push it to far up in the rpms). Also some port work on the heads with some valve seats/seals. And of course a full gasket kit, timing chain and bearings if needed. I've read the block is fine to build and the head is an ok flow'er plus I'm not looking for anything wild. I'll figure out what I will do with the l28t later. I'm aware of the potential just have an 88 na2t z31... The usual places for parts are turning up null. Recap, Pistons where? ITM can be had on eBay, good/bad? Compression numbers with nothing but flat tops... Cam suggestions, supporting mods? N47 tricks? Parts sources... My z31
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