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Found 14 results

  1. spitsnaugle

    LS Swap Parts

    Location: Dayton Ohio LS engine potentially for sale soon. 700r4 Transmission (Complete) $1200 (was $2k) Jegs Performance 700r4 Transmission (works with LS) high speed torque converter. Flywheel MegaSquirt MS3pro plug and play LS wiring harness and ECU. SOLD Hawks LS 240z 1-7/8" long tube headers. SOLD These are the best long tube headers available for the 240z LS combo. Talked with hawks and had these the collectors angled to fit an auto trans! (will also fit manual). Likely the only long tube headers that'll fit an auto trans! Holley ULTRA XP Carb, Intake and MSD ignition $800 (total cost was $1400) (bolted together, but never used) Holley ULTRA XP 750CFM Jegs: 510-0-80803BKX LSx carb'd intake + MSD ignition box Jegs kit: 510-300-132K dual feed fuel line The 240z: $6,000 SOLD Some Photos: https://imgur.com/F0UYyJj <NEW 5/1 exterior https://imgur.com/vCrYBpy <NEW 5/1 rear underside https://imgur.com/iRfImPN <NEW 5/1 front wheel https://imgur.com/9vmuuca <NEW 5/1 rear wheel https://imgur.com/J73BiMQ <NEW 5/1 hatch floor https://imgur.com/7ifnO56 <NEW 5/1 hatch area/floor https://imgur.com/rpiPVyM <NEW 5/1 hatch area https://imgur.com/3B4Be8p <NEW 4/28 dash with speedhut speedo https://imgur.com/HPFDhPv <NEW 5/1 dash area (mind the dust) https://imgur.com/OLKoOXj <NEW 5/1 suspension https://imgur.com/JcdBphQ <engine bay photo https://imgur.com/8gYOIWM <exterior https://imgur.com/d3HMGvw <currently in the garage https://imgur.com/EITVYbh <under side floor passenger https://imgur.com/tFPdcCG <under side floor driver side https://imgur.com/nxPbw8U <exterior with air dam up (this photo is older, but nothing has changed) 1971 Datsun 240z. INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING Hoke Performance LS motor swap mount kit. -- for auto or manual trans. 280zx brake booster wilwood master cyl. new classictube.com brake lines front to back stainless braided fuel lines, aeromotive regulator Tanks Inc. poly fuel tank, and fuel pump, Radiator: champion 3 row + custom an fittings deka etx20l battery with braille battery bracket Speedhut GPS speedometer, with high beam and turn signal markers (photo here) speedhut tach and alternator gauge and gauge faces, Spare dash harness included. Marugen Shoukai Flares (best quality I could obtain) Wheels: Rota RB-R 17x9" and 17x9.5" Hyper Black with Polished Lip. Tires: Cooper RS3-S 245/17 and 275/40/17 I've cut out the rust and welded in new metal at doglegs, battery tray, and hatch/tail light area, it really just needs painted. Engine bay painted in bmw deep sea blue. Engine bay/triangulated strut bracing added from firewall to struts. Spare tire well removed (for new fuel tank) and custom bead rolled sheetmetal replaced it. triangular bracing at rear struts bad dog frame rails (not installed) Interior is currently stripped, but stored in garage. Most carpet was thrown out--Its cheap and easy to replace.xenon flex urethane air dam camaro fender Vents behind rear tires: (see bjhines car for reference) hatch panel z source Arizona
  2. Joey2point0

    Mikuni 44PPH Stock Air Horn

    Nearly complete with my Mikuni 44PPH restoration but in search of the final piece. I believe these are the stock velocity stacks but I could be wrong, I have 5 that are in good shape and 1 that is completely destroyed. Looking for 1 air horn to match the set (don't feel like spending $300+ on a whole new set just yet) Basic dimensions are: Carb matting side diameter: 48mm Open air side diameter: ~78mm Height: 50mm If you have more than 1 available I would be interested in picking up extra as well.
  3. I am on the search for a complete set of use-able / rebuild-able triple DCOE carburetors. Either 45mm Weber's or 44mm Mikunis is what I'm looking for. I would need everything to install into a 280z with an L28. Can work on trades as well, please see my for sale posting.
  4. Hello All, I have an oportunity to pickup another good condition 240Z. I believe it's a 71. The owner says the motor is a performance motor, but she's not sure because it belonged to her EX...I'm not familiar with the L28 so what should I be looking for? Any pointers or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  5. Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? I would have thought that with the #50s installed, it would at least idle and drive albeit a tad lean.. OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
  6. I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible?
  7. OK, I have rounded up a bunch of parts that I have accumulated over time, and am putting them up for sale to finance a turbo build. All parts are as-is, shipping is not included in the prices. Some of the larger items may take me a couple of days to get shipping quotes as I will need to round up packing materials. Here is what I have; VO7 crank - $700 - SOLD It has been cleaned, checked, and polished by a machine shop. It is standard size. Comes with the oil pump drive gear and keys. L24 rods - $125 - $100 These are the 135mm rods used with the VO7 crank for building a stroker motor. They have the 8mm bolts. These have also been cleaned and checked by the machine shop and the pistons removed. 280ZX Turbo ECU - $75 - $50 82 or 83 unit, I used it to run a turbo engine on a stand to be sure it worked, no other details known about it. 280ZX Turbo AFM - $75 - $50 Same as the ECU above, has been painted by previous owner, no tags, labels, etc, but it does work. 280ZX Turbo AFM to turbo boot - $25 Same as the ECU above, no holes or tears. 280ZX Turbo coil with ignitor, and spare ignitor - $25 - SOLD 280Z ECU - $50 - $25 Unknown year or history, believe it is for a '77 with manual trans. 280Z engine wire harness - $20 Same as the above ECU, has been modified to run a turbo engine (?). May be good for connectors. Dellorto triple carbs, DHLA40 - $600 - $400 Comes with 3 rebuild kits, unknown history, still in the box they came in from Italy. I can open them up to check jet sizes, etc if needed. No manifold or linkage, carbs only. 260Z intake and balance tube - $75 - $50 E88 stamped, with balance tube and cross-water line, some bolts, etc missing. Arizona Z intake - $75 Looks to be unused, has been modified (and not finished) to clear headers on the underside. Will need to be welded closed to be used. Holley 390 carb with manifold adapter - $150 - $125 Ran this on the car for several years, manifold adapter bolts to 240/260 factory carb manifold, uses cable throttle (not included). First pic is installed on the car. Rear window louvers - $50 - SOLD Aluminum, mounts to glass under the weatherstrip. Needs paint and one lower latch. I am not looking for any trades on these items. Shipping will be from the DFW area. I can provide additional photos, and will respond to queries as quickly as I can. Responses on the weekends may be a bit slower as don't check email as often. Thanks for looking!
  8. Hey guys, I have some parts from a 240Z and 280Z up for sale. I am located in Orange California and would prefer local pickup but am willing to ship the smaller parts. 14 x 6 wheels - $200 obo Camshaft (E30, Grind A) - $50 Holley Fuel Pump (Brand New in box) - SOLD Lash Pad kit (will measure and update post - brand new) - $65 A/C components (will take inventory and update with pics and price) - TBD Intake - Sold Carbs - Sold Airbox and ducting - $20
  9. shawn83zxt

    SBC V8 Part-Out

    I'm reasonable, make a reasonable offer and we can work something out. Prices do not include shipping (which you will have to pay) T350 trans - $200 Exhaust system, S130 custom - $350 Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads Scorpion 1.5 anodized roller rockers - $800 Edelbrock performer RPM intake - $150 Holley 3310 vacuum carb 750cfm -$100 350 shortblock w/ Comp Cams 268XE cam - $250 JTR block huggers (ceramic) - $200 MSD pro billet distributor - $175 MSD 6AL box - $150 JTR SBC engine mounts/plates - $50
  10. Many of us know how difficult it is to get our later model V8 280z cars thru California smog inspection. While pre-1976 Z cars are smog exempt, anyone with a 77 or 78 Z car had to deal with CARB referee. Today I was looking at the CARB rulebook and I saw the following statement: "Vehicles with collector motor vehicles insurance policies that are at least 35 MYs years old are exempt from the visual inspection [as required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Cal. Health and Safety Code], but must comply with the emissions standards for its model year and pass a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks" My vehicle is not my primary vehicle and a collector car policy thru Hagerty Insurance only cost $350 per year. I have always believed that the California Air Board should be concern about what comes out of my tailpipe not is under my hood. A properly tuned catalytic converter equipped LT1, LS1 should easily blow cleaner than a 35 year old L28. My 78 has just reached the 35 year mark and this would make the biannual smog inspection much easier. Has anyone attempted to use this loophole yet?
  11. Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)
  12. Hello, recently i just recently purchased a used set of weber 40 dcoe. But basically i am missing a few parts such as the three eye joints that screw on to the manifold, and one butterfly and throttle shaft. What had happened was i bought the set of webers that had the three pieces of linkage missing so i new i was going to need those. But me being an idiot i was disassembling the first carb without penetrating fluid so i stripped the heads of the screws that hold the butterfly and the throttle shaft in place and i had to drill out the holes. But the throttle shaft needed to be replaced anyways since one of the ends threads were stripped. So basically i need one throttle shaft, one butterfly, and three of the eye joints that screw in to the manifold. The carbs seem to be fairly old italian weber Dcoe 18 No. 9E ,with a cannon manifold. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  13. Im looking for a trade, My carbs are Mikuni 40phh Type R Im building a 3.0 with an aggressive cam and am looking to move up to weber 44s or 45s. I want to keep my manifold and air horns, just looking to trade the carbs/ rebuild kits. The kits are brand new genuine mikuni which cost $225 on wolfcreekracing. My carbs have been sitting for a while but dont have anything broken or missing. Please let me know if you have carbs to trade. Thanks!
  14. Hello hybrid z I have a question regarding the triple weber carb kit that is for L series engines. Well i am planning on getting the carb kit but i'm not sure which one to get. Here is a video of my car specs on the engine are in the description. Not sure what cam but here is what i think it is Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290 any thoughts on this.
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