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Found 6 results

  1. Hello, im new here and was looking for racing/track suspension and chassis almost everywhere and didnt find it. So i have got a few questions. 1. Does 280z suspension and chassis fit into 280zx? 2. From what company can i buy suspension and chassis ? (In Europe if possible if not its ok) 3.Does 300zx brakes fit in 280zx? Datsun 280zx 2+2 1979 2.8l 5speed manual. Hope You guys will help me!
  2. Hi Guys, I have had some other forum members suggest I pop up an add with some pics for some parts I have been making over here in Oz, I have been busy making these, small batches to order only, custom made 240z full-length floor support rails, or frame rails as some of you guys call them. The level of detail you will observe is nothing short of 'a complete replica, but better). These items have, as much of as I can possibly create from the factory. from the JIG/tooling holes along the length of the rails to the toothed areas and all the curves as seen up by the TC rod support bracket. The material used (although yes it IS galvanised) is a medium to High strength steel core strip, in our metric terms a G450 MPa Yield/proof strength. Material is 1.5mm thick so a little heavier than the originals, and quite stiff, somewhat stiffer than the originals and other replacements I have seen around, from other whom purchased from the states. these rails, with interest to run in a small batch only will set you back $ 260 AUD per side. Also I have developed the front frame rails, but price on application, as there is alot more work in these guys and is batch size dependant. Also lower radiator support replacements and a few other early s30 fabricated goodies which include RB engine & gearbox mounts. 100's of hours has gone into the development of these to be a perfect fit for the 70-73 model s30z cars, with the shallow height floor rails. The reason i went to such depth of detail as I needed to replace rails on 2 of my 3 240z, and was unable to buy GOOD replacements at a reasonable cost with this detail (i didn't want my car to look botched!) but at the same time, incorporating the rear sub-frame extension/connectors for subtle enhancement. These Suit the use of a rear sway/anti-roll bar still, and have quite a few happy users/owners of them so far with picture-documented installation etc more info and pics over HERE in our AusZcar forum if you wish to read more (Mods OK to delete link if you feel it breaches rules) freight can be quoted with your ZIP code. mind you freight is not exactly cheap from Aus, so feel free to combine with a mate or what have you. please pics attached and if you have any questions about them, feel free to post here Or PM & email emails to 'nat0zparts-'a t'-adam.com.au' cheers Nat0
  3. whats up everyone, so I bought a 73 2400z project, the previous owner started to swap a z32 rear sub frame but didn't complete it. After looking through Mull's project HUGO, it looks like he used 2" square tubing for the sub frame mounts. So my plan was to build the sub frame mounts out of 2x.120" square tubing, and connect the rear sub frame to front with 2x3x.083" tubing. Stock ls1 is going in now, but have plans for a 6.0 turbo making between 600-650whp Would this be appropriate for the power I plan to make? The car will be media blasted after I finish the subframe/frame rails, then primed and any major rust will be repaired. Basically I want to build it right the first time so I don't have to tear it all down in the spring. This forum is awesome and filled with so much helpful info! Thank You!
  4. I've been contemplating using a pre-smog body mated entirely to the suspension and running gear of a very modern car. I've drawn out plans, taken photos of my own Supras and 240Z while on stands, measured, compared, etc. This is still on the drawing board. The goal, of course, is to find the easiest/cheapest connection point between old and new, with a limited budget - maybe $8K. This budget is only for a drivable car that is complete using substantially used equipment. Blueprinting an engine, updating turbo system and control, dyno tuning, suspension upgrades, and all such expenses would wait until the proof-of-concept is reliably on the road for a while. Here's the plan, in general: Shell of one body, subframes of another, maybe floor & firewall of the subframe donor, steering & dash may be from subframe donor, front and rear fascia & body electrical of either a good cosmetic choice, or the same as the subframe donor, engine may match subframe donor (meaning only two designs are involved) or could be entirely unrelated. Exact combination depends on many factors. To all NaySayers: Here's someone who did it. He chose a Volvo P1800 body, a Lexus SC400 as complete donor, and required some tube framing. He took two years in his garage to get it road-worthy, starting without blueprints but just cutting the cars up and doing it. Kudos for pulling it off: http://www.pro-touring.com/general/member-pro-touring-projects/got-volvo-73794.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/548803-volvo-body-swap-build.html Datsun examples worth considering: S30 shell, subframes and additional equipment (maybe entire floor like the Volvo) come from a 350Z/G35/370Z; engine coudl be a VQ35DE, VH45DE, or SR20-DET as best examples. To maintain 350Z geometry (which wins autocross) one must either extend the nose (tube frame) giving even more room for the engine without crossmember conflict and better weight distribution, or move the rear wheel wells back relative to the body, placed much as they are on a 350Z (low overhang). 260Z/280Z 2/2 (2+2) - unpopular body, but the wheelbase happens to approximate several modern options. The 350Z theme could be used, but here's another good combination: due to Japanese tax incentives, the Lexus IS300 is narrowed, and therefore a very close match to use as subframe and floor donor (and additional equipment, depending on fitment), with either the stock 2JZ-GE VVTi from the IS300 (reuse all the wiring, gauges, and everything stock), 1UZ-FE V8 (perhaps using SC400 as donor instead for simplicity, though wider body), GR series V6, 2UR-GSE (IS-F engine, not in my price range but certainly worth a mention), and other engine options. Datsun 1200 (B110) shell, Mazda Miata subframes (supposedly easy to work with, made for more weight than this finished project, good match of geometry, dead engine Miatas with suspension upgrades can be bought cheap), SR20DET, CA18DET, VQ35DE, or even the Frontier RWD QR25DE since stock power would be more than ample for a 2000lb car. For that matter, an "old school" engine might be used. Engine/transmission could be from any other donor; any small high-tech 4-banger that has a modern intercooled turbo kit available. Obviously any of these could also take the GM LS1/T56 or newer with suspension mods, but I've focused entirely on Japanese (though still mix brands). So the topic is... Could I do similar to the Volvo/Lexus project using a pre-smog Datsun and whatever donor seems the best match? I concurrently am asking a question about fabrication cost on another thread, asking if outsourcing the fabrication to Mexico or further south could get the metal-work done cheaply but well.
  5. Hi Folks, I am new to the forum. I have owned several Z cars over the years, and because I am either a hopelss romantic in love the classic good looks and styling of this car, or just a masocist beacuse as I said I have owned these cars before. KInd of like a bad girelfriend that is HOT, you can't live with her and miss her like all heck when she is gone! Anyway, I have herad guys mention that the firewall isa weak point and needs to be strengthend. I can not find any refernce in any of the posts here, or on other sites, how to go about that. I am planning to buy a 74 260 (damn that evil CA DMV and their regs.) and do an engine swap with a VQ37. I may build it up a bit to put out bout 350HP. Any help from those who know more than me (that would be just about everyone) would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Hello, Everyone! Does anyone know about a 240z chassis for shipping to the UK? I live in Buckinghamshire, England and REALLY need a new chassis. It doesn't need to have anything on it I'm just looking for a rust free...a relatively rust free chassis that wouldn't take too much work to get back to a solid body again. I hear that in Arizona the body's are really well kept from the dry atmosphere? Well, if your in Arizona (or anywhere else) and you have a 240z chassis that you don't mind shipping, message me I guess? Email: [email protected] Any help on getting a new shell would be VERY much appreciated. I only drove my Z for 15 minutes. She was so far gone the chassis was twisting so I wasn't able save her :'-( THANKS! Stuart
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