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Found 7 results

  1. This is a rerelease of RTz's coil bracket under his permission. Since he is not producing them anymore and zccjdm is gone I would like to bring these back to the community. Please read this post in its entirety before ordering. If there is anything unclear, please ask. . . . . . . . . . . Block mounting points... Made from 3/16" 6061 Aluminum. Mount Price: $99 shipped anywhere in the US. If outside the US, PM for pricing. 1. Price does not include coils. 2. Mount will require rerouting heater hose. 3. The mounts come with a light DA sanded finish as shown in photo 2. They are ready for paint, or polishes with minimal effort. 4. Included hardware... stand-offs and S.S. bolts for mounting to the block. All extra hardware not included. 5. Coil Part Number: 12558693, or 2000 Chev. Suburban 5.3L 6. Connector Part Number: 12582189 (connectors only come in batches of 4, as a sub-harness) 7. Coils known to work with Wolf3D, Haltech, Motec, J&S, and Megasquirt. It's up to you to know if and how they will work with your specific EMS. Coil Schematic... Pin A... can be grounded to the block, but my recommendation is the head. Pin B... needs to be grounded at the same location as the ECU. Pin C... to ignition channel. Pin D... provide a good 12 volt power source (with key 'on'). Begin with 3.5ms dwell. Test and tune for best ignition performance. For ordering send a PM or post here. Thank you everyone.
  2. With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift light indicator would work when fitted to distributor ignitions - ie what that signal looks like coming off the coil, or similarly even just how a tachometer works in that sense. So really the key is confirming that it is a 12V square wave with frequency reflecting that of all spark plugs firing. I have a multimeter but no data collection hardware at my house. I presume its 12V at the positive terminal where the tach connects. I have a 3 ohm coil, no ballast resistor. I have an electronic dizzy but thinking about it as points seems viable and simpler, so my thinking that I'd like to verify (please correct if wrong): voltage builds in coil when the contact is closed then releases into plug when it opens. so i would think there would be 12V at the input terminal when the contactor is closed and goes to zero when it fires - thus spark signal could be considered a falling edge triggered event. Although necessary to make sure I'm thinking correctly, that level of detail isn't really functionally necessary as all we need is frequency of this signal. I could just determine the RPM I would like the light to go off at, then correct to 'revolutions per second' then multiply by 3 (inline 6 = 3 ignitions per revolution) and we have target cutoff frequency to design circuit for. Right? I havent thought through the circuitry too much yet but generally seems like it would just be: high pass filter (tweaked to frequency) --> inverter --> light (?) Arduino may have the advantage of multiple RPM set points without having to reassemble the circuit. Then just use whatever kind of light - maybe even under the windshield vents as a HUD As I said any recommendation / correction / resouce is welcomed. Thanks in advance. Ben
  3. I have a 1977 280z with a L28ET swap. I'm running MS1 V3 with a Relay Board I bought the car running but for some reason after I uploaded a new firmware it stopped. I realized I didn't unplug the coil which probably fried it. At that point I decided that I would redo the horrible and complicated wiring that the previous owner did in the car. I bought a MS Relay Board and the wiring kit as well as I switched out the NA dizzy to a 1983 Turbo Dizzy. I wired everything up and redid everything and the car is cranking but not getting spark. So I did some test to see why it doesnt work and where is the problem coming from. 1. I checked if im getting spark at the distributor...Im not 2.I checked if Im getting spark at the coil... Im not 3. I checked if I'm getting 12v+ to the + coil and I was 4. I replaced the coil with a 12v light bulb to see if while cranking it would light up... it didnt 5. I checked if the relay board is getting 12v+ switched while cranking...and it wasnt so i temporary jumped the 12v+ from the battery (does this mean that my ignition is bad?) I figured the problem must be within the Megasuirt itself. So my questions are: 1.Is there any way to check if the pin 36/s5 output actually works? 2. Is there any way to check if the coil ignition chip in MS is dead? 3. Is it possible that MS is not sending signal to pin 36 because i wired my Turbo dizzy wrong...any way to check that? Below I attached a picture of a diagram of how I connected the coil. PLEASE help me I need this car running since it's going to be my daily and I'm tires of borrowing my friends car. THANKS IN ADVANCE
  4. megasquirt ignition coil dwell

    I would like to know what everybody is running for dwell on their megasquirt direct (single) coil control on thir l-gata z. For example the stock ballasted 280z coil. The " hot" z31 300z coil and various performance coils.
  5. No Spark = No Fun

    Has anyone had this happen before? - Cruising along at a steady 2000 rpm, not doing anything unusual and the engine just stopped firing and I coasted to a stop. The details: The battery seems to be fine - I have power. The starter is cranking fine. I have fuel, and its going into the carb fine. I cant see any loose wires. How can I test to see if it is the distributor or coil or spark plugs? FYI - I have a 71 240Z with a SBC 350 my distributor cap shows some signs of melting on the outside, but I thought it was just cosmetic, and was that way before it was installed.
  6. I was trying to figure out why my z32 was idling so rough, as if a cylinder wasn't firing. New spark plugs (the ones recommended by Nissan) were installed. No change. I removed one coil pack at a time to see which cylinder may be suspect. Removing all coil packs resulted in rougher idle, EXCEPT when I removed coil pack #2. Thinking I was onto something, I concentrated on that cylinder. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the fuel injection wires and connectors were badly cracked and corroded. I bought some new connectors and attempted to swap out the old connector with the new one. I did so and started the car. It ran smoother than I had ever seen it run, then all of a sudden, white smoke from under the hood. I had partially melted the #2 coilpack. In reviewing my wiring, I had crossed two wires. No worries. I bought a new coil pack and installed it. Now I cannot get the car to turn over. It just chugs, smells like gas, but never sounds like it wants to start. It is getting spark and plenty of fuel. I've swapped out the PTU (series II) with a PTU from a well running 94 Z32. Still no start. Swapped out the CAS with a known good CAS, still no start. Thinking the worst, I found another ECU (same numbers and letters as the one in the problem Z32) and STILL no start. I have the FSM, but I'm not really seeing anything else to try. I would appreciate any input or suggestions as to what the next item or items I should check. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
  7. hey guys, so the guy i bought my z from had some ugly body kit on it, the bulky fiberglass one. well i took that off and replaced it with the msa poly one http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l276/meat164colgs/Z141.jpg . well when i did this it made my front end rise almost a full inch. i dont have money to spend on quality coil overs but i want to try and buy some cheep coils that fit a 280 and slightly cut them. i know this is stupid and un-recommended but it will be temporary its all i can do right now. i will eventually go to ground control.
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