Jump to content
HybridZ

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'ignition'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

There are no results to display.

Forums

  • Technical
    • FAQs
    • Model Specific
    • V8 Z Forums
    • 6 Cylinder Z Forums
    • Other Engines
    • Engine Components
    • Body Kits & Paint
    • Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
    • Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
    • Drivetrain
    • Fabrication / Welding
    • Interior
    • Miscellaneous Tech
    • Trouble Shooting / General Engine
  • General
    • Announcements
    • Non Tech Board
    • New Members Forum
    • Members Projects
    • Motorsports / Events
    • Buy / Sell / Trade
    • Group Buys
    • Vendor's Forum
    • Links
    • Site Support
    • Area 51
    • The Tool Shed

Blogs

  • Blog 7794
  • Blog 7796
  • Blog 7797
  • Blog 7801
  • Blog 7810
  • Blog 7821
  • Blog 7850
  • Blog 7876
  • Blog 7900
  • Blog 7903
  • Blog 7918
  • Blog 7945
  • Blog 7995
  • Blog 8097
  • Blog 8113
  • Blog 8124
  • Blog 8199
  • Blog 8217
  • Blog 8223
  • Blog 8239
  • Blog 8335
  • Blog 8424
  • Blog 8478
  • Blog 8501
  • Blog 8644
  • Blog 8751
  • Blog 8853
  • Blog 9074
  • Blog 9088
  • Blog 9095
  • Blog 9152
  • Blog 10389
  • Blog 10579
  • Blog 10681
  • Blog 10929
  • Blog 10956
  • Blog 11195
  • Blog 11737
  • Blog 11794
  • Blog 11853
  • Blog 12120
  • Blog 12435
  • Blog 12884
  • Blog 13129
  • Blog 13159
  • Blog 13200
  • Blog 13472
  • Blog 13567
  • Blog 13587
  • Blog 14207
  • Blog 14439
  • Blog 14625
  • Blog 14703
  • Blog 14909
  • Blog 14919
  • Blog 14975
  • Head Gasket for 3.1 liter stroker engine
  • Blog 15298
  • Blog 15393
  • Blog 15520
  • Blog 15602
  • Blog 15654
  • Blog 15717
  • Blog 15865
  • Blog 16224
  • Blog 16227
  • Blog 16485
  • Blog 16662
  • Blog 16809
  • Blog 16878
  • Blog 16923
  • Blog 17059
  • Blog 17103
  • Blog 17116
  • Blog 17333
  • Blog 17402
  • Blog 17506
  • Blog 18026
  • Blog 18084
  • Blog 18466
  • Blog 18819
  • Blog 19188
  • Blog 19475
  • Blog 19671
  • Blog 19685
  • Blog 20165
  • Blog 20200
  • Blog 20239
  • Blog 20330
  • Blog 20345
  • Blog 20475
  • Blog 20568
  • Blog 20611
  • Blog 20767
  • Blog 20885
  • Blog 21113
  • Blog 21316
  • Blog 21355
  • Blog 21400
  • Blog 21541
  • Blog 21630
  • Blog 21672
  • Blog 21712
  • Blog 21925
  • Blog 21950
  • Blog 22036
  • Blog 22272
  • Blog 22312
  • Blog 22331
  • Blog 23034
  • Blog 23042
  • Blog 23220
  • Blog 23246
  • Blog 23322
  • Blog 23406
  • Blog 23570
  • Blog 23700
  • Blog 23718
  • Blog 23737
  • Blog 23762
  • Blog 23794
  • Blog 23917
  • Blog 23956
  • Blog 23959
  • Blog 24064
  • Blog 24131
  • Blog 24139
  • Blog 24205
  • Blog 24221
  • Blog 24240
  • Blog 24430
  • Blog 24435
  • Blog 24495
  • Blog 24576
  • Blog 24643
  • Blog 24722
  • Blog 24770
  • Blog 24833
  • Blog 24848
  • Blog 24853
  • Blog 24872
  • Blog 25030
  • Blog 25248
  • Blog 25289
  • Blog 25373
  • Blog 25396
  • Blog 25527
  • Blog 25674
  • Blog 25853
  • Blog 25886
  • Blog 25922
  • Blog 25986
  • Blog 26129
  • Blog 26181
  • Blog 26217
  • Blog 26240
  • Blog 26247
  • Blog 26299
  • Blog 26401
  • Blog 26440
  • Blog 26559
  • Blog 26735
  • Blog 26736
  • Blog 26831
  • Blog 26844
  • Blog 26883
  • Blog 26884
  • Blog 27002
  • Blog 27028
  • Blog 27169
  • Blog 27260
  • Blog 27267
  • Blog 27307
  • Blog 27345
  • Blog 27400
  • Blog 27428
  • Blog 27452
  • Blog 27558
  • Blog 27622
  • Blog 27707
  • Blog 27735
  • Blog 27877
  • Blog 28049
  • Blog 28070
  • Blog 28199
  • Blog 28214
  • Blog 28234
  • Blog 28308
  • Blog 28320
  • Blog 28475
  • Blog 28476
  • Blog 28494
  • Blog 28657
  • Blog 28671
  • Blog 28814
  • Blog 28880
  • Blog 28923
  • Blog 28943
  • Blog 28945
  • Blog 28982
  • Blog 28993
  • Blog 29008
  • Blog 29036
  • Blog 29168
  • Blog 29412
  • Blog 29467
  • Blog 29618
  • Blog 29710
  • Blog 29759
  • Blog 29832
  • Blog 29868
  • Blog 29922
  • Blog 29950
  • Blog 30009
  • Blog 30027
  • Blog 30175
  • Blog 30182
  • Blog 30287
  • Blog 30302
  • Blog 30339
  • Blog 30443
  • Blog 30461
  • Blog 30474
  • Blog 30517
  • Blog 30556
  • Blog 30654
  • Blog 30729
  • Blog 30758
  • Blog 30773
  • Blog 30842
  • Blog 30872
  • Blog 30886
  • Blog 30989
  • Blog 31027
  • Blog 31048
  • Blog 31073
  • Blog 31109
  • Blog 31116
  • Blog 31138
  • Blog 31251
  • Blog 31307
  • Blog 31343
  • Blog 31378
  • Blog 31393
  • Blog 31432
  • Blog 31495
  • Blog 31507
  • Blog 31592
  • Blog 31626
  • Blog 31643
  • Blog 31692
  • Blog 31717
  • Blog 31760
  • Blog 31768
  • Blog 31777
  • Blog 31826
  • Blog 31851
  • Blog 31877
  • Blog 31907
  • Blog 31942
  • Blog 32009
  • Blog 32051
  • Blog 32073
  • Blog 32094
  • Blog 32111
  • Blog 32142
  • Blog 32169
  • Blog 32198
  • Blog 32250
  • Blog 32256
  • Blog 32259
  • Blog 32262
  • Blog 32291
  • Blog 32371
  • Blog 32417
  • Blog 32463
  • Blog 32515
  • Blog 32519
  • Blog 32562
  • Blog 32678
  • Blog 32695
  • Blog 32725
  • Blog 32981
  • Blog 33294
  • Blog 33517
  • Blog 33612
  • Blog 33734
  • Blog 33993
  • Blog 34018
  • Blog 34140
  • Blog 34452
  • Blog 34586
  • Blog 34855
  • Blog 35117
  • Blog 35378
  • Blog 35742
  • Blog 35956
  • Blog 36022
  • Blog 36030
  • Blog 36711
  • Blog 36997
  • Blog 37069
  • Blog 37070
  • Blog 37103
  • Blog 37166
  • Blog 37257
  • Blog 37645
  • Blog 37818
  • Blog 37954
  • Blog 38369
  • Blog 38569
  • Blog 38681
  • Blog 38923
  • Blog 38945
  • Blog 39122
  • Blog 39441
  • Blog 39494
  • Blog 39529
  • Blog 39575
  • PSL_240z's Blog
  • Phlebmaster's Blog
  • dhp123166's Blog
  • miguel240zcruz's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • beon's Blog

Calendars

  • Community Calendar

Categories

  • Configuration File Sharing
  • Drawing Files, Templates
  • Manuals, Diagrams, Guides
  • Software, Calculators
  • Other misc files

Categories

  • Z Videos
  • Member Videos
  • Road Racing & Autocross
  • Drag Racing
  • Burnouts and Drifting
  • Crash and Burn
  • Dyno Runs
  • Events
  • Babes
  • Humor
  • Miscellaneous

Found 20 results

  1. Hope everyone is well. I've learned a bit since my last post about my issues but I'll explain where I'm at. My car 280z with a 99' firebird LS1 and a 4L60E trans is constantly getting getting a P1054 error code (checked with a diablosport intune, i only use it to check for codes, I need a more comprehensive scanner). When the code/check engine light comes on the car seems to lose power/struggle and miss when I hit the gas, just makes a bunch of racket, it gets around ok if I don't hit the throttle too hard. I made it to the gas station about 2 miles from my house today and the symptoms popped up, I've made it 20 miles to a car meet 100% and then on the way home from the meet the symptoms return. I'm open to suggestions of what to do. Now if you feel like reading, here's what I've done... 1. When I bought the car it didn't want to start but when it did, it got around. After scanning it a Cam sensor code came up. Turns out the Cam and MAP sensors were UNPLUGGED. Plugged them in and the check engine light went off for about two days and now I'm basically having the same symptoms I am now. (i drove the car 150 miles to OCMD like that btw before I knew those sensors were uplugged) 2. Talked to a friend who's done a few LS Swaps and gave me some things to trouble shoot. First I relocated the 02 sensors directly under the header collectors, they were about a foot down the pipe in what he described as a lazy installation. 3. My symptoms made him think the car might be starved for fuel (hesitating and struggling under load on the road) so I inspected my fuel system. The main fuel line on the car appeared to be a braided 5/16 line and it was kind of a mix of sizes to get it plumbed between the fuel tank and the pump. The car also had an MSD fuel pump rated up to 40psi... I thought I hit the jackpot... I ordered the complete PSI Conversions LS Fuel kit (25' of line, proper fuel pump *Much quieter than the MSD piece of crap*, fuel filter/regulater and all the 6AN fittings your heart could desire. Finished the install this week and fuel pressure at idle improved from 58 to 61psi. But after all that, here I am, still chasing this stupid issue. Here is where I'm at... I currently have the spark plugs out of the car to inspect them and the wires. They are all an MSD wire/boot (gray/black) set specifically for an LS but one has brown boots and is visibly torn at the plug connection so I'll definitely replace that. The plugs look ok and are NGK TR55 gapped between 55 & 60. I don't see any obvious problems other than that boot. Was googling for the correct spark gap and found this update for the Spark Plug Wire Gaps https://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-J-171.pdf Well I just looked up my plugs and TR55 (gap at 60) plugs ARE NOT listed as being specifically for my year motor however some old ass LS1.com thread had guys in 2008 running the TR55 on their 99-02 firebirds. The 3 plugs on NGK's website THAT ARE what they sell for the 99' V8 all say to gap them at 40. Perhaps NGK made the adjustment to their website a long time ago when the service update was released. Is it possible I'm over gap and having misses and that's throwing the o2 code because of improperly burnt fuel on the 02 sensor? or would the the computer throw a different code? I'm not sure how specific or complicated ECU's will throw codes. I literally might just have the wrong plugs in my car... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  2. Ignition Coils

    I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  3. 240z Ignition issues

    Hello everyone, I'm having some issues with getting my 1971 240z started. I've changed fluids, cleaned spark plugs, and got a new battery. I've had the starter and the alternator checked and they are both good. I have power going to the voltage regulator when the key is on but all I get is a clicking sound from a relay that is inside the cab on the passenger side. The fuse box has power but has been modified from stock by the previous owner. I have a video at :54 is the relay clicking. Any help is appreciated. I can also take more vids of dash and engine wiring.
  4. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  5. I'll stick this here knowing the subject has probably been beat to death already. Recently rebuilt mikuni 44phh carbs and added a Schneider 270-80f cam to E88 head, 2.6l block. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. The car started a little rough with a lot of backfire through the carb. I thought of the dizzy being 180 out but confirmed it wasn't. I have start to play around with advancing the timing. Initially it was idling at 0deg and rough, 2-3000rpm would hit 15-18deg and smooth out the roughness. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. I currently have the: Mikuni pilot screws are all out 1.5 turns. Idle sitting 1000rpm 15 advance at idle 2-3000rpm advance is probably at 30deg (off the scale) Still getting backfire through carbs particularly on cylinder 1 at idle. Next steps tonight are too sync the carbs, adjust with the idle on backfiring carbs - am I missing anything? I've attached an idle video and picture of jet sizes. Any input or comments would be helpful.
  6. The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. Any advice would be amazing.
  7. With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift light indicator would work when fitted to distributor ignitions - ie what that signal looks like coming off the coil, or similarly even just how a tachometer works in that sense. So really the key is confirming that it is a 12V square wave with frequency reflecting that of all spark plugs firing. I have a multimeter but no data collection hardware at my house. I presume its 12V at the positive terminal where the tach connects. I have a 3 ohm coil, no ballast resistor. I have an electronic dizzy but thinking about it as points seems viable and simpler, so my thinking that I'd like to verify (please correct if wrong): voltage builds in coil when the contact is closed then releases into plug when it opens. so i would think there would be 12V at the input terminal when the contactor is closed and goes to zero when it fires - thus spark signal could be considered a falling edge triggered event. Although necessary to make sure I'm thinking correctly, that level of detail isn't really functionally necessary as all we need is frequency of this signal. I could just determine the RPM I would like the light to go off at, then correct to 'revolutions per second' then multiply by 3 (inline 6 = 3 ignitions per revolution) and we have target cutoff frequency to design circuit for. Right? I havent thought through the circuitry too much yet but generally seems like it would just be: high pass filter (tweaked to frequency) --> inverter --> light (?) Arduino may have the advantage of multiple RPM set points without having to reassemble the circuit. Then just use whatever kind of light - maybe even under the windshield vents as a HUD As I said any recommendation / correction / resouce is welcomed. Thanks in advance. Ben
  8. Up for sale is a Megajolt ignition controller, EDIS 6 module with connector, a Mustang VR sensor with mounting bracket and connector, 36-1 trigger wheel with hub, and a longer crank pulley bolt. All parts were previously installed on my car and are in full working order, I am only looking to part with this setup because I will be moving to a MS3x system running sequential COP. I would like to sell everything together but am open to parting out if the right offer comes along. Looking to get $350.00 OBO plus shipping for the complete setup. If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
  9. Hello guys I have a 77 280z and when I went to start it today I got nothing. I have a new battery, new distributor, new alternator and a year old voltage regulator. I have lights in my dash and dome light. Head lights are nice and bright. When I turn the key I get nothing. I usually have a beep when I turn the key. I went and replaced the back part of the ignition today and still nothing with the new one. I will take the whole assembly to locksmith and see if it's the cylinder or what. Can anyone shed some light on what else to check?
  10. Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen. Diagram that has been referenced: I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure... Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know. Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching. Pictures attached show the plugs in question.
  11. Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too. I turned my car off and none of the lights worked/turned on. I then twisted the key to the start position and it didn't click the relay like it usually would do even though that's not how I start my car. I started my car with the push button (like usual) and the ammeter was still not showing charge and all the lights were dim. I started it and shut it off a few times and the gauge finnaly showed charge and all the lights are bright and back to normal. They even turn on when the car is off. The relay still doesn't click when I twist te key though. Even when I take the battery cable off and put it back on I don't hear a click from a relay like I used too ( the same relay I think). Already changed the ignition switch. And checked all fuses. Now my problem is that the fusible link for (what I think is) the ignition/starter is getting really hot. The fusible link that is getting hot bridges the thick white wires running from the shunt. The white thick wire is also hot at the shunt too. When I disconnect the T plug at the alternator, the fusible link doesn't get hot anymore. The cap for the fusible links say BATT(for the one thick white wire that gets hot) and IGN(the one that doesn't and is white/red wire) I have a feeling my problem has something to do with my ignition not clicking anymore. Also, when I would plug the negative battery cable back on, a relay would click too. Is this the same relay? The relay clicks come from the passenger front kick panel.
  12. megasquirt ignition coil dwell

    I would like to know what everybody is running for dwell on their megasquirt direct (single) coil control on thir l-gata z. For example the stock ballasted 280z coil. The " hot" z31 300z coil and various performance coils.
  13. Hi, I'm planning to add a MAP sensor to my current setup; this includes 3.1L + Triple Webers + Electromotive HPX ignition. If you take a look at the attached photos, you'll see how I plumbed PCV and the brake booster. I've read that it's not advisbile to pull vacuum for a MAP sensor directly off the same vacuum line as the booster. My DCOE 40-151's have a vacuum port that I use to balance the carbs using gauges. Would this be a sufficient vacuum source for a 1 bar map sensor? Thanks, Bajcsi
  14. I was almost ready to deliver a 1976 280Z Restomod to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! We started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. The car would crank but not start. If the engine was cold, it would start, run one minute or less and then die and not restart for hours. At first check my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the plugs and checked again, dry as a bone no fuel in cylinders. Next, even though the fuel pressure measured correct before and after the fuel rail, we replaced the fuel pressure regulator just in case and still not the solution. Started intense troubleshooting with the EFI Bible and FSM. Replaced the MAS after cleaning the contacts and still nothing! Cranks just fine when cold and would start and run for a minute and then die and refuse to start until cold again. Checked the throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime, nothing! Still would start when cold most of the time but die after less than a minute. Double and triple checked the injectors listening to ensure the injectors continued to fire after the engine started and we weren't losing pulse, still no good. So what does the bible say after all these checks, replace the ECU! Luckily, I thought I already have a spare ECU for my 1977 FI 280Z. Guess what, doesn't work, wrong part number. Here's where ECU's get tricky I found out. The 1975-76 Auto Trans FI models use ECU A11-600, the 1977-78 Auto Trans FI models use A11-601. My 1976 280Z 4-Speed Coupe uses the A11-601 ECU! So off to Ebay to find an ECU to match A11-600 in my daughters car. Two weeks later it arrives and we plug it in and walla, nothing... It starts and runs less than a minute and dies and won't restart! Totally frustrated and confused we start the troubleshooting process again re-checking every pin on the ECU harness and we suddenly notice that Pin 1 is giving us varying voltages of .3 to 12.7 volts. At 12.7 volts the engines starts, runs less than a minute and dies, when we re-check the Pin 1 voltage and try to restart the engine we get .3 - .7 volts. Bingo! Finally we have a negative reading we can start tracing! So where does Pin 1 on the ECU connect to? The Ignition Input Circuit! We started tracing the wiring harness for the Ignition system around the engine compartment and back under the dashboard and find terminal corrosion on the connectors under the passenger side glove box. Cleaned the terminals and connectors and applied a generous dose a electolytic grease and instant start and run! Thank goodness for excellant mechanics and friends who spent 2 weeks with me crawling under the dashboard and hood testing and retesting component after component to find the issue and resolve it! I hope this might help someone else in the future. If your Pin 1 on the ECU measures anything less than 12 volts, you have an electircal problem not mechanical! You must have 12 volts on this pin for the car to start and run, if the votage drops after it starts and dies check the ignition circuit connections under the glovebox. Clean and grease those terminals because the corrosion heats up after ignition and interrupts the connection of power to your injectors. Good luck!
  15. So I just picked up an '83 280zx-t that I am planning on using as a donor for my l28et swap in my S30. Bought it not runningn as something "electrical" went wrong with the previous owner. He said he took it out of storage, jumped the battery and drove around the block and now the car won't start. When I got it home I began to go through all of the wiring and finally I was able to get some of the lights, however I still cannot get the car to turn over when I turn the ignition switch. I noticed a relay was missing from the relay box and also a wire cut from the other box under the hood. Hoping someone can help me identify if the missing relay or wire could be my problem.
  16. cylinder #4 not firing

    hello Hybridz, the other day i was getting the z ready for a car meet, so a thorough cleaning. i got there fine but when i tried to leave the car would barley start and cylinders 4 and 5 would not fire. me and another gentleman cleaned the distributor out and then cylinder 5 started to fire, but still not cylinder 4. it has to be something to do with the distributor "cap" because the wire is barley getting any spark.you can here cylinder 4 rarely fire like it got enough of a charge to ignite. i tried another wire but still not change, oh and if i leave the wire off the spark plug the car seems to run better, not sure why that is. your opinions would be greatly appreciated!
  17. Hi guys, I just got a 280zx and put a battery in it and turned the key and nothing happened. So I figured the battery was dead, I put a new battery in, same thing, so I put the new battery on a charger, same thing. There is no power to anything, no headlights, no dash lights, no hazard lights, no horn, nothing. So I checked all the fuses and they look good, checked the wiring from the battery and it looks good, but I found some wires right next to the battery that are cut. I'm not sure where they are supposed to go, or even if this is the problem? But it seems like the power from the battery isn't getting to the car. Anyone able to help? Thanks
  18. Ignition Wiring question

    So somewhere along the life of my s130, someone lost the keys. The ignition switch is messed up now from a PO using a screw driver to turn it to the on position, and there is a flip switch for the starter. Anyways, i bought a universal ignition switch from autozone, i tried to wire it up but just couldn't seem to get it. The blue plug that plugs into the original ignition, i found the battery wireand the starter wires, but can't seem to get it to where when the key is in the on position or acc to get anything to happen. Just wondering if anyone else installed one before and could help me in doing mine. I need the wiring diagram for the ignition. I looked in the FSM but it wasn't any help. Thanks again! I would really like to be able to use a key instead of a screw driver and flip switch
  19. Installed new pertronix and new coil. Car ran fine on points prior to install. Won't start after installation. Nor will it start after i pulled the pertronix and put points back in. Im thinking the coil is bad even though its new and im getting some spark from it. Anyone done this install before? Need help plz!!!
  20. Just wanted to share my little ignition winter project. I wanted to keep my triple carbs but I wanted better ignition. I'm sure it would also come with better emission which is also a good point. Here’s the car : ’72 240z with 2.8L L28 engine coming from a 280zx. I'm converting it to Megajolt this winter during snow (& salt) season. I've tried to be exhaustive with my presentation. Only big advice I've got: Get good crimping tools! You must invest in one pair of pliers at least. I've got 3: one for moley pins, 2 for regular flat pins. I would discourage anybody who would intent this process with regular pliers. The engine is a "Hot" street L28, expected to have low & mid range torque: - Head milled, ported, polished, unshrouded, combustion chambers CC’ed, new valve seats, Dual lub systems (internal in cam + spray bar) made by Braap. - Cam with asymmetrical profile from Rebello Racing with adequate springs, rockers, etc. - Bottom end is new also with new pistons, rings, bearings, HF oil pump, etc. Compression ratio is around 9.0:1 / 9.5:1. - 3x Weber 40DCOE with ported Cannon intake. Each runner is linked with the others with a canal to balance pressure between them. - 6-2-1 MSA coated exhaust header + custom 2,5†exhaust - Soon to disappear Mallory Unilite distributor I’m in process of converting the car. Wiring is almost done, I now need to focus on mechanical installation. I’ve chosen to run MJLJ with TPS option but I don’t exclude to convert it to MAP later. We'll see how it runs first with TPS. For TPS, I’ve picked one up from a BMW 323ti (E36). The TPS does not have any spring loaded control, its shape for the shaft is easy to reproduce (a round ø8mm shape with one flat) & it is easy to get at any junkyard. Only concern would be that it is not water tight. I got it in Europe for 15€ with the entire throttle body (people get rid of it for better 325i unit) I also got the one from Autosportlabs webshop but it is big, spring loaded with complex shaft print, so I won’t use it after all. Regarding install, I’ve installed MJLJ box on the sidekick panel on passenger side with a relay support + fuses. I’ve made a wiring diagram based on info from the Autosportlabs “how to†section & from one chart found on this board. Only difference is the way I expect to power up the EDIS coils. I’m going to plug the +12V source from the coil + side since the tach is triggered this way. This wiring diagram is good for pre-72 Z, others would likely needs the tach adapter & other type of wiring since Tach changed in 73. All wires are crimped with proper tools. When wires needed to be connected together; I’ve twisted them together, soldered them & protected them with shrink tubes. Wires are all protected with high temp hoses under the hood. For VR sensor, I’ve made a CAD model of the front of the engine to design a support. Support, in aluminum, is made with a CNC machine. I’ve taken into consideration some margin for adjustability. The drawback from the support is I need to ditch the stock fan & go with e-fan instead. I wanted to do it anyway so I did not bother… 36-1 wheel is coming from the EDIS car donor. Crank damper has been machined to be slightly smaller than the wheel. I cannot feel any play but wheel can rotate freely around the pulley. The plan is to install the VR sensor, get the wheel in front of it accordingly, get a mark done & spot weld the wheel in place (hopefully the weld will not hurt the rubber, I’ll be careful about that). I would have to redo it, I think I would choose to pressfit the wheel instead of welding it but it is too late. EDIS coils have some rubber pads installed to avoid vibrations. Pads also raise the coils allowing me to get it install on a flat surface without any specific support. Pads are male/male type with ø20 OD. I had to make a thread on each Coil support hole with Helicoils to make pads fit. TPS will be mounted on carbs rod linkage instead on carb shaft. My DCOE are the old style, there’s no hole on housing to install easily a support for TPS. Drawback with the way I expect to install TPS is that I won’t have 90° angle between idle & WOT but around 45-60°. Hopefully TPS resolution / sensitivity will be sufficient. The support will be a very simple steel plate design bent, nothing really fancy. Still need to design it and make it. To finish the first post, here's how my install looks like for now (or almost, wires have been setup, I don't see anything anymore from the driver side) The next steps would be to try the new support, check 36-1 wheel position, get the wiring finished under the hood and install EDIS components.
×