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Found 16 results

  1. Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
  2. IanL

    L28ET Out / L24 In

    I am swapping out my L28et for a rebuilt L24 w/ triple webers. A head-scratcher for most but, nonetheless, the direction I want to go with the car. Looking for any prior experience/guidance on making the swap back to NA. I did some searching but no luck. The turbo set up is out of an 83 ZXT. Swap was done in the early 2000s by a shop in Illinois. Not particularly comfortable with electrics so, the wiring harness is of particular concern.
  3. Sandy455

    Cold Air Intake Nearly Done

    Work nearly done. The very last unused TVM air box on planet earth over triple Weber 40s on my L24. Is there a Datsun Z shop in So Cal better than RS Speed Design in Glendale? I doubt it. Who else will be at the Nissan Challenge event on Sunday at Streets of Willow? S
  4. 240zwilm11795

    Getting into the Z game

    Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  5. 240zwilm11795

    resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  6. abratcher

    73 240z wont start

    I got my 1973 240z for my senior project and ive done everything i can find and think of to get it started but i still get nothing. Background info: Bought it from behind a mechanic shop i volunteer at, apparently been sitting for 2 years and the owner didn't want to buy new carburetors to replace his terrible gunked up ones. but it ran when parked (thats all the background info i got) the car seems to have some electrical issues i think seeing as no lights came on when i turn the key and it wouldn't even turn over by the key. I had to take out the dash so i could cut out the old floor pan and frame rails (rusted beyond repair) and weld in the new ones, so right now the dash is out So far ive: Bought new to me flat top carburetors and had them rebuilt by the shop i volunteer at got new spark plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, point set, ignition condenser, air and fuel filter, and in pump fuel filter I know its getting spark i checked by taking a spark plug out and making sure it did (arc was blue, ive heard it may not start if its arc is orange because its weak) granted i do have to run a wire straight from the battery to the coil when i try to start it to get 12v to it im pretty positive its getting fuel i can see it going up through the filter the carburetors were just rebuilt so im sure thats not the problem ive tried spraying carb spray in the carbs but to no avail it turns over just fine but refuses to start I may be missing something obvious but im at a total loss any help would be greatly appreciated Adrienne
  7. Hey all, looking for a used/new/spare aftermarket header (or perhaps full system?) for my L24. Not concerned with brand, just not rusted or broken. My stock exhaust is shot and it would make life easier to go aftermarket. Shipping to NC 28411 and I would like to use paypal. Pics and price to [email protected] Thank you!
  8. Long time lurker turned builder. This thread will be slowly updated and the build may not be the most interesting, but I'd like to share/document. I've used this site for ideas and daydreams for about 8 years, so thanks everyone! My canvas is a 1970 series 1 240z with period modifications. Today was the first day I actually started work on the car, previously I was just trying to get the car running a little better by cleaning and rough tuning the carbs. I started by removing the previous owner's attempt at making a floor.... This left an even larger hole in the floor, perfect for cooling you down on a hot summer's day. The floors were cut out when I bought it and 2x3 frame tubing welded from the TC bracket to the rear rails. Unfortunately the rails were not even close to level, so that had to be fixed. One side almost leveled, but the floor and main frame rails are just the beginning... Time to save up a bit to buy an engine hoist.
  9. 240z l24 w/ tipple webbers when I bought the car the owner had told me it had only been tuned to idle. it would run fine until you gave it gas and it would surge and start spitting out of the carbs. I had a guy come out and look at it and we mussed around with the carbs giving it more fuel but still had the same problem. I pulled the plugs and the were BLACK so that was not the answer. then we moved to the distributor and he messed with that for a bit and now the car wont run at all. If I have the distributer cap on it wont ignite but when I have it off it sounds like it wants to start but just wont and is still spitting out of the carbs. he says I need a new distributor but I want another opinion and am wondering if he just messed something up and I can do something to correct it. I am not an expert so im trying to learn. any advice or help will be appreciated . if anyone is in my area I would love for someone to come out and help and maybe teach me a thing or two. also I will pay if someone comes out thanks!
  10. Just as the title says. How much power can i produce from my turbo L31 stroker with L24 rods and Ross pistons before i need to start worrying about a rod giving in? I am looking to produce somewhere in the 400HP region with a lot of mid range torque. Thinking about installing H-beam or X-Beam rods instead, but only if it requires me to do so.
  11. For sale is a 1971 dark green 240Z. Asking 14,000. Mechanically, this car is great! Transmission and engine operate properly and the suspension is nicely upgraded. Not much in the way of extra noise from the interior. Speedo stopped working a bit ago. It was jumping around and then quit. My guess is that the cable needs to be cleaned of oil that was leaking from a now replaced oil pressure sender unit. Nothing needs to be done to this car to enjoy it every day. It sounds great, runs great, and feels quick and planted. It's got a JDM look with the fender mirrors and flares, front air dam and rear hatch spoiler. New wheels and grippy performance tires round out the aggressive look. All the work was done by Art, the owner of Sunrise Z in Glendale, CA. The paint is ok. It looks great just looking at it, but on close inspection it has some chips and has orange peel texture. Previous owner got it painted cheaply at a shop. Original paint code used. Its a single stage paint job. Interior is great except missing stereo and the bezel that would hold one is broken. It has the controls for, and the majority of the A/C and heater parts, but these systems do not currently work. I'll add more pictures of the interior next to show all of that better. Here are the upgrades: Engine (Orignal L24): Rebuilt Head Aluminum Radiator Twin electric fans with aluminum shroud New Oil pressure Sender New Rear Main Seal New gas tank vent Hoses Vent hose upper rear Vent to filler Vent Upper Front Vent Long Transmission: 5 Speed Transmission from 280ZX - Has been rebuilt Exedy (Dakon) Clutch Kit New Throw Out Bearing Suspension: Sway Bars Strut Bars Tokico Illumina Adjustable Shocks Eibach Progressive Springs Urethane bump stops Urethane bushings Urethane Mustache Bar bushings New Diff mount New Steering rack boots Front Alignment Tires and Wheels Tires - 225/50ZR-16 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 Wheels - 16" X 8" Rota RBR in Hyberblack w/Polished Lip - 4x114.3 +04 Brakes: SS Brake Lines Front Pads - Porterfield R4S Rear Shoes - Porterfield R4S DOT3 Brake Fluid Electronics Starter Relay XR3000 Electronic Ignition MSA Fuse box Exterior Cosmetic: Fender Flares Fender Mirrors Rear Spoiler Front air dam Front lamp covers Rolled Rear Fender lips ( to fit wheels and lowered suspension ) Interior: Replaced Turn Signal Switch Reupholstered seats (original look) New Trunk carpets Retractable 3-point Seat Belts White face gauges New Hatch Plugs New Hatch Weatherstrip installed Includes rest of complete weatherstrip kit New tail light gaskets Rivets for Black Plastic Extras: Original 'Wooden' steering wheel. (needs a horn button) Extra set of tires and wheels ( Centerline wheels wearing 245/50 x 16 tires in the rear and 205/55 x 16 tires in the front) Original 4-speed Transmission (Wheels and 4-speed are at Sunrise Z in Glendale)
  12. xxnubzxx

    L24/E31 head?

    Anyone have specs for this combo? I can't find much docs on them, I found out that my 280zx has a swapped 240z L24 with an E31 head. Bought the car for $900 running, earlier this month. engine has about 130K miles on it. Good pick?
  13. Hi Hybrid Z I bought an L24 E88 a while ago and I don't know what kind of compression ratio it should have. This block was taken apart and refurbished (it has assembly lube on the cam). l24's all had flat tops on them, but looking through the spark plug holes, this one has dished pistons. Asked the seller what has been done to it and he has no idea. I do not want want to take the cylinder head off, either since it's pretty much new. So I'm asking if anybody would know what could have been done with it. Has it been bored to 2800cc to accommodate the later l28 dished pistons? I wonder if it was built to be a turbo block. Maybe somebody has run into this kind of setup? Thanks
  14. Hey all I'm new to posting on Hybrid Z, but not new to the forum. There is so much invaluable knowledge that I've found on this forum that has motivated me to move forward with my project. I'm currently in automotive school and work at a garage and plan on working on it as much as I can. The story behind the Z is special to me. It was my grandfathers before it was mine. He grew up racing Porsches in SCCA races, but he always drove a Z (240z all the way to 300zx) as his daily to and from work. I have many fond memories of riding in the passenger seat winding around riverside roads with my grandfather. Around 35 years ago he put his 1971 240Z in storage. Sadly it wasn't climate controlled and a lot of moisture got in and started rust. It now has a lot of dust and corrosion, but nothing that's not salvageable. Only the rear rockers are needing patching, floor pans are good as far as I've been able to see so far, as well as underneath battery tray. The hatch is in pretty bad shape but I picked up a 260z hatch as a replacement and am going to put the glass from the 240 in it. Due to an accident when moving the car into storage the drivers door was opened too far and bent the area near the hinge. I'm looking for a door to replace the damaged one. I'm excited for where this project will end up. I'm towing from the storage unit to my house (70mi) on a car trailer this week and I'm going to clean up and take detailed photos of everything for you all to see. I love this forum and I want to thank all the members for providing all the awesome content that is already here and am glad o be a part of this awesome community.
  15. Jesse OBrien

    2.4 worth saving?

    I received my 240z today (to say I'm excited is to say microbes are small), and cracked open the l24 that came with it. It's been living in a snowbank (in New England) for the past year without an intake or exhaust manifold on it, so I was expecting it to be pretty rough. When it showed up though, it didn't look too horrific, but I couldn't rotate it by hand (I still don't know what size the crank bolt is to try a breaker bar on it). I popped off the valve cover, and was again surprised by how clean and oily things looked: Pulling the head off, however ... was ... less encouraging. Here's the chunk of ice that had formed in the oil pan. There didn't seem to be any other water or water damage anywhere but the goop on top of the #3 and #4 cylinders, but it's still not encouraging to see. I flipped the block and pulled the connecting rod bottom-pieces (I don't remember what they're called) to have a look at the bearings, and they looked like they had been driven, not parked in a snowbank. It's currently sitting upside-down soaking up Mystery Oil in hopes that whatever's seized will work its way loose, but I'd like to get some opinions on whether or not it's worth saving. I'm trying to get this car on the road within 10 weeks and under $2500, and that's an extremely tight budget to work with (it includes everything from the manual conversion to tool rental to WD-40 to the car itself). With that budget in mind, is this worth keeping, or should I hold out and hope like hell that a block comes up on Craigslist? Is it worth hoping that I'll be able to get away with a hone, new bearings and gaskets, and a new timing chain assembly to have a decent short block? Is it possible that it's just the torque converter that's seizing it up, and I'm incorrectly assuming that the gunky-looking cylinders are keeping it from rotating? How much does it typically cost to rebuild an l24, and would someone mind saving me some search-time and recommending a vendor and/or required parts? I'm looking through the FSM, but this forum exists and is a convenient way to leverage other peoples' experience rather than researching every little thing myself.
  16. Sotenacious

    Looking for more power

    Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
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