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Found 94 results

  1. WTB L28 Oil Pan

    Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
  2. Building an L28 (NA)

    UPDATE: 2/14/15 After a rather long hiatus, the build returns with updates! As some of you may know, I decided to go with the professionals with this build. Looking at some local shops around my area, most notably Rebello Racing, and also some other shops across the country, I've decided to send my dear L28 out to Eiji Hosomi at Datsun Spirit Inc. (https://datsunspirit.com/) There are three main goals that I wanted my motor to achieve. 1. Speed > Power. I want my motor to run like a hot knife through butter. It needs to be quick and very responsive. Power is nice, but a quick revving motor is what I seek. 2. Character. My beloved Z will eventually be my weekend car. I don't want the motor inside of it to just be a fast engine. It needs personality and character. Something that sets it apart from, let's say, a Honda Civic. This is why I went for triple Weber 45's, a flywheel that weights less than 10lbs, and my desired cam (more info on those later.) There's a certain character I want this motor to display, and I believe this build fits the bill just right. 3. Reliability. It might seem like an oxymoron, having a fast and reliable sports car motor, but I've seen time and time again how these motors, when built by true artists of their trade, can withstand almost anything you throw at them. My new motor will be running on pump gas, will idle smoothly and will barely break a sweat with the granny-like driving I put my Z through. Engine Specs: Bore/Stroke: 89mm/79mm Pistons: 29mm Kameari (280g) Rods: 139.5mm Kameari (~575g) Crankshaft: Polished, Stock L28 Camshaft: .290 Duration / .490 Lift Valves: New valves (stock size) Upgraded springs and retainers CR: ~10.5 to 11:1 Now, time for some photographs! Here's an album with all the photos I've gotten from Eiji thus far. I'll update it as the build continues: http://imgur.com/a/Fyqtv ORIGINAL POST: Dear Forums, I've been a long time lurker of these forums (along with Classic Z Cars) and of the community, but just recently, I've decided it was time I popped my Z cherry and got involved. I own a '77 280z (Motor has EFI; Transmission has 4 Gears) I'm currently working on another L28 that I picked up (Carbed, N42 Head)) along with a 5-Speed, but due to my lack of knowledge regarding these motors (We are a family of Ford Mustang owners) I seek your help in order to make sure this build isn't a total disaster. To start off, hello; My name is Mike I am 20 years old and I'm a computer tech. This is my first engine rebuild, so experience is not really something I have in my corner. Luckily, my brother and my dad are both mechanics, but they decided to pretty much leave me to learn how to swim in the ocean with this build. My goals for this motor are pretty simple and straight forward, but I would still love to get some help from some of you more knowledgeable L-Series petrol heads. Let me start by saying that I am not power hungry. We have the pony cars for that. What I want is a responsive motor, not a powerful one. Engine Goals (Might get redefined as I learn more about these L-series motors) 1. I would like to hit 200HP at the crank (Although not necessary) 2. I want the motor to be naturally aspirated. 3. I love the look and sound of triple Weber carbs. 4. I don't think I need a stroker motor to produce a descent amount of power, so unless it's necessary, I'd rather not go there. Things that I am considering (Please correct me if I'm wrong!) 1. Balancing the Crank 2. Lighter, flat-top pistons (I would like to keep the stock 86mm size) 3. Stock valves look good enough! Probably just stay with those. 4. I've read a few posts where people mentioned using L24 rods. Why is that? Weight? 5. A Mild performance Cam with upgraded springs. As I mentioned above, I'm just learning about these motors, so your help is very much appreciated. I'm gonna need all the knowledge I can get. This is the motor: So it started with this Time to clean! So that's pretty much it so far. Cheers guys, and thanks a lot for the help! Not that it matters much, but here is the car:
  3. Ignition Coils

    I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  4. I´m right now on the final stage of my complete engine rebuild. Before engine start I´m double checking the timing alignment. I however seem to miss the V shape mark on the sprocket(aftermarket OSK) which makes me a bit hesitant. Below pictures show the alignment as i sits right now, can anyone please feedback whether it´s aligned or not. Car is a 280z -75. Chain, cam and sprocket are new and the the marking down at the crank is aligned.
  5. Hi: Doing some research and cannot find this; maybe it doesn't exist. Any stock pistons (flat-top or minimal dish) that will fit an L6 with roughly 30mm pin height in 86-88mm bore dia.? Thanks.
  6. Finishing up the build and have a few things needed and want to let go. Lower 48 only. FREE SHIPPING Fuel rails sold, intercooler kit sold. $SOLD Haltech E6X ecu with complete custom harness for S30 chassis. Includes everything shown: harness has leads for all regular/necessary inputs, i.e. IAT, TPS, MAP, trigger, injectors, etc. No sensors included. Also includes injector harness, fuse blocks and relays. Everything is even labeled for easy install. I can also send wiring diagram and base maps for startup but I recommend using a competent tuner as it is a bit old school but still quite powerful. Open to offers. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115714918512243/?sale_post_id=1115714918512243 SOLD Greddy boost controller. Installed but unused and removed. Changed ECUs and no longer need. Includes solenoid, controller, wiring harness, instructions, etc. Just can't find the box but its brand new. I had it mounted under the dash in my Z and left the bracket I made on it since attached with 3m sticky tape. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115720231845045/?sale_post_id=1115720231845045 $175 Seimens injectors. 575cc. Just flowed/ cleaned by Witch Hunter. 576cc set of 4 good injectors plus 2 cores. Data/flow sheet included. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1085472664869802/?sale_post_id=1085472664869802 $140 Turbo valve cover: Powdercoated matte bronze. Will post pics as soon as I pick it up from powder coat. $SOLD MSA 2.5" exhaust with dynomax muffler. I had it to compliment the MSA 6-1 header. Sounds awesome. couple of scratches under the diff from light ground contact. $SOLDDistributor Block off plate: Hoke performance. Mine already had a freeze plug pressed in which I kinda dig. $65 OHC valve cover, bare aluminum. All located in Boulder, CO. Happy to meet and exchange cash. Otherwise Paypal and feel free to make offers.
  7. L28 3.0 Carbs /EFI Questions

    I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
  8. Up for sale is the last 3 piece of my HKS collection. In perfect condition. Ready to use. 2x HKS Surge Tank Type 1 & 1x HKS Surge Tank Type 2 1- HKS Surge Tank Type 1- (FULLY OVERHAULED) SOLD This HKS Tank type 1 has been blasted and powder coated with very nice black sand texture paint. Not a spray cans but a real powder coating! I came as you see in the picture with brand new black oxide bolt set. I'm asking 1500$USD obo + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. 2- HKS Surge Tank Type 1 - (AMAZING CONDITION) SOLD This second HKS Tank type 1 is my preferred. It has been blasted and powder coated with very nice black sand texture paint. Again, it's a real baked powder coating! I came as you see in the picture with brand new Stainless Steel bolt set. I'm asking 1600$USD + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. 3- HKS Surge Tank Type 2 SOLD This third HKS Tank is the famous type 2. Unfortunately it’s missing the inlet section and the previous owner has blended the HKS SURGE TANK logo on top. So it’s a perfect deal for someone looking to build its own piping connection. It has been blasted and powder coated with black wrinkle powder coated paint. This finish isn’t as perfect has the two above. Please ask for more picture if you interest in this one. I will supply brand new black oxide bolt set. I'm asking 1000$USD + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. Shipping is on buyer’s expense, ask for quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  9. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  10. Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
  11. Hi, I am planning to build a race car engine for my 280zx endurance Chumpcar racer. It's all amateur hobby racing and nothing professional, still it would suck very much if it breaks during a race. I am doing this 50% for power and 50% for reliability. I am a beginner hobby mechanic. I got all the OHC Nissan books My goals: - 100% for 10hours without blowing up several times a year. - Usable range 3500 - 7000 RPM (To keep cost down and keep some reliability) - 200HP crank (but 250 would be fantastic) Engine will consist of the following: - Megasquirt fuel only (can't do timing due to race regulations) - Race camshaft (Schneider 284-92F is a good candidate, 284/292 (236/244 @ 0.05"). 488/.504 lift) - MSA Headers - F54 block - N47 head (worth spending $650 for a Lonewolf porting?) - Some exhaust (2"?) I have a F54 block that comes with pistons but no head. This is what I plan to do: 1. Replace piston rings 2. Replace main and rod bearings 3. Replace all gaskets 4. New waterpump 5. New oilpump 6. New cam springs 7. New rocker arms 8. Should I get new pistons (block comes with pistons)? 9. Should I get a new Timing kit? Is there anything I should add to my todo list? Does the cam make sense? Is there something that is specially hard that I should leave to a professional? First time I ever mess with engine internals. I am not super tight on budget but forged pistons is way out of my budget. Many thanks
  12. Hey guys, I just got my car back from the dyno and I was a bit underwhelmed with the results - 156hp and 161ft/lb at the wheels (curves with AFR attached). The long block was assembled by a pretty reputable builder with the following specs: Bored out L28 to 2.95L F54 block with a N47 head 11.3:1 CR 290° cam with 0.490" lift Then I came along and messed something up with the following: MSA 6-1 header into 2.5" exhaust MSD 6AL-2 programmable ignition box triggered by a 280zx dizzy Cannon intake manifold Weber DCOE40s 36mm chokes 160 main 160 air correction F2 emulsion tube 3.5 A/V 55F9 idle The timing curve was initially dialed in by the tuner to eliminate knock with the 94 octane that I delivered the car with. The dizzy is locked out at 35°BTDC and the timing map they arrived at is attached. After the 1st round of results, I asked them to run some higher octane to get in all the timing that I thought was left on the table to control the knock. With 108 octane the car didn't pick up any power from advancing the curve that was developed with the 94. I found that a bit odd, but not sure how you argue with the data. The dyno was an eddy brake Land and Sea Dynomite axle hub set up. Let me know what your thought are on where I could look next, or if you think something is really bottlenecking the output. From all the searching I've done, it seems like all the hardware should support 200+whp, but we're not even close. Thanks! L28 dyno.pdf
  13. Location: Kettering Ohio Shipping: Pick up only, or may deliver to Western Ohio or Northern KY. Why sell: Need to finance some machine work for custom parts. Price: $950 Details: L28 rebuilt by ATK -- Engine has less than 40k miles. Bob Sharp Racing Intake & Holley 650 Long Headers (unknown maker) 5 Speed Trans Datsun Spirit Custom Length MSD sparkplug wires (go across front of engine for cleaner look) Polished Aluminum Mechanical Fuel Pump Block off Plate. Polished Aluminum Valve Cover MSD SS 8207 coil - new never used. Will include cross members if needed. Photos: MORE COMING SOON! (taking them this weekend)
  14. Up for sale is one of the two best jewels of my collection. In awesome condition. Like new. Completely overhauled. Ready for the show. THE HKS SURGE TANK TYPE 2 The Tank has been blasted and painted with an amazing black wrinkled paint. I come as you see in the picture with all brand new black oxide bolt set. Buyer can choose between the HKS pop-off valve you see. HKS Racing Bypass Valve or HKS Standard Bypass Valve Also, this HKS surge Tank has been slightly modified to work with ITB. As you notice on the picture '' Nismo_zxt 1006'', the carbs breather has been blocked. So it's ready to use with your ITB. If you prefer to have them open, let me know. I have a 2nd Tank Type 2 with the carbs breather not blocked. But it’s not finish yet. I still have the paint to do on this one. SOLD I'm asking 2500$USD obo + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. Shipping is on buyers expense, ask for quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  15. WTT: N42 for P90

    Looking to trade an N42 cylinder head for a P90 cylinder. N42 came off car that ran before it went into storage 15+ years ago. I really just need the head and the cam mounts, possibly rockers if they are in good shape as I be will getting a new cam, springs and valves anyway.
  16. Swedish 240z journey begins

    Hello everyone, My name is Erik and I'm located in Sweden or Switzerland (depending on when you ask) and I have been an on/off lurker for quite some time. Finally I get to start a thread about my own Datsun 240z restoration thread, but first an introduction is in order! I yearned for many years and finally managed to get the financials and a specimen all lined up. I was lucky to find a 240z just 10 miles from my hometown and after a quick peak I decided to take the leap. The car is a Datsun 240z from 1973, imported to Sweden 1983 and parked in a warm garage since 1990 with plans for restoration. These restoration plans never happened and I got the chance to buy the car in 2014. - Hood damage is from a previous carb fire. - L28 with triple Weber DCOE carbs. Anyone spy the Nissan 2000 OHC cover? The running gear is a L28, 5 speed gearbox, R200 differential and Weber DCOE carbs. Included in the car was the original drivetrain L24, 4 speed gearbox, R180 differential and SU carbs. Currently the E88 head from the L24 is installed on the L28 with an aggressive cam, but I have all the original components from the L28 as well (head, intake etc) in case I'd like to go that route. New panels were also included since some were identified as damaged and therefore procured in the 90's as part of the restoration plans before the car was put into storage. Plan for the car is a complete frame up restoration. The L28 drivetrain will be retained including the Weber carbs and the car made legal in Sweden. With the new drivetrain the brakes (including rear disc brake conversion) will be upgraded to allow legal road use in Sweden. In due time I'll be creating a separate thread for the actual work and progress on the car. Thanks for reading! Erik
  17. N42 Chamber Welding

    I am currently building my motor on my 280z, and I was looking at having the head chambers welded up. The issue I have ran into is everyone wants big money to perform this service. I was was wondering what everyone's opinion was on if should even weld the chambers, or if someone has a reasonable source to have this service done. My current build list is as follows: N42 Block N42 Head / Ported & Unshrouded .030" over ITM Flat-top pistons 280z rods w/ ARP rod bolts ARP main studs ARP head studs Triple Weber 45 DCOEs with Cannon intake Advance Distributors re-curved 280zx distributor w/ E12-80 ignition module Schneider factory cam regrind 284-92F grind Intake Duration (gross): 284 Exhaust Duration (gross): 292 Intake Duration (.050”): 236 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 244 Intake Valve Lift*: .488" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .504" Lobe Separation: 107 Intake Valve Lash: .010" Exhaust Valve Lash: .012" RPM Range: 3250-7250
  18. 280Z Rough Idle/Sputter

    So I have a 76 280Z 2+2 with a rough idle when cold. It also doesn't really like starting from cold. Have to give it gas to get it going. Once it heats up it is fine. But here is the kicker, on cold idle it seems to suck air up the tail pipe, which stops when it warms up. I held a lighter up to the tailpipe and watched the flame go up the tail pipe. It also smells like it is running rich, with a glorious off throttle backfire and some black smoke. Timing is good, fuel system has been pretty much completely replaced, compression was also checked, all 6 cylinders right around 135-150, not great but decent. I am wondering if it could be a valve lash issue? Not sure what else to check.
  19. What I have for sale is a rebuild-able L28ET. The motor fires right up, and idles fine, but overheats after 20 minutes at idle, or 5 minutes of hard driving. Rebuild is required. Local pickup, delivery, or ship to your door. All estimated prices do not include shipping (92804). P90 head (Solid lifters) - SOLD F54 Block - SOLD83 ECU [A18-605-581] - $100 OBO 83 Turbo AFM [A31-624-600] - $60 83 Igition Coil, Igniter, Bracket - SOLD 83 Dizzy, shaft and oil pump - SOLD MSD wires - SOLD JSK Fuel Rail - SOLD 6 fuel injectors - SOLD N42 Intake Manifold non egr w/ 240sx TB - SOLD 83 Harness - SOLD 280z 5 speed if your interested as well - SOLD ZX 12-80 Dizzy W/ Taylor wires from MSA - SOLD 6-2-1 Square Port Headers - SOLD Turbo setup - SOLD Other than that, I have misc parts like zx alternator, starter, etc. just ask. ZX alternator - SOLD Starter - SOLD ZX Fan clutch autozone special, brand new - SOLD Turbo J Pipe With Turbo Clamp - $35 Valve Cover and Oil Cap w/ Minor Scratches - $60
  20. In awesome condition. Like new. Mikuni Short Runner (with all linkage, gasket, insulator, fitting, insert) It came as you see in the picture with brand new gasket, insulator, fitting and insert. Carbs bore holes are 45mm. I'm asking 550$ + shipping + 2.9% paypal fee If you have any questions please ask. Shipping is on buyers expense, ask for quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  21. Edit - First, thank you for any replies and to anyone who read my original post. I am learning this with the FSM and two repair manuals. I used a second set of eyes to go out and triple-check that I hadn't made a bunch of mistakes. The first cylinder gets a compression reading on the gauge at about the 45 mark (if it existed). When bringing the pulley mark to zero with the help from my second eyes, I get a completely different and much less dramatic looking scenario. The timing mark on the chain is a V (sitting at 2) versus a shiny which I couldn't find before. This looks less problematic than the crazy scenario I originally posted about but is still puzzling to me as the PO's mechanic didn't work on the timing but said there was a definite issue. Do these markings look off to you?
  22. L28 stock AFR change

    Hi Folks, I finished a stout little engine build for a customer of mine here in South Florida. It's a 10:1, 40 over L28 with a decent cam. I assume I'll have to throw some more fuel at this engine but it's going into a stock 1976 280Z with the original fuel injection that was working fine. I have done many engines like this but never into a stock FI system. What is the preferred method of adding fuel? The less complicated the better! Thanks, Greg Ira RevTec
  23. Hi Everyone, Is this possible - putting an 80-81 AFM on a 76 S30? Someone has stated that there will be fuel pump issues as there is no connection for the fuel pump on the AFM (or something like that)? Any assistance is greatly needed. Or if someone has an AFM for a '76, would be willing to trade for this? Thanks, E
  24. Hey everyone, This is my first post to the forum, and I have a project and a few questions to share. I'm currently working on building a 6 carburetor setup for my l28 and have decided to use 6 30mm Mikuni motorcycle carburetors. I've selected these based on the airflow requirements of the engine while accounting for volumetric efficiency, engine speed, and of course engine size, and by comparison to some other carburetor setups (triple webers, various SU setups, etc). Needless to say, the Mikunis won't be compatible with the existing N33 intake manifold I'm currently running, so I plan to fabricate one from steel sheet and tube. My question relates to the ID sizing of the new intake manifold. I've read a rule of thumb that says the throttle body at the base of the carburetor should have an area that makes up 80% of the intake manifold cross sectional area. Based on this, I'm approximating an intake manifold ID of 33.54mm (see calculations below) Area of throttle body at carburetor base= (15mm)^2*3.14=706.5sqmm Area of intake manifold =.706.5/.8=883.125sqmm Radius of Intake manifold=(883.125sqmm/3.14)^(.5)=16.77mm Diameter of intake manifold=33.54mm Can anyone confirm whether this 80% rule of thumb is safe to go by? I know there are other considerations to make when it comes to resonance tuning and airflow, but I've had little luck finding anything conclusive. I'm also considering sizing the new intake manifold to match the ID of my existing N33 manifold and N42 head. Given the simple construction of the new manifold (going with steel tube and steel sheet), fewer changes in diameter might be better. Abrupt changes in diameter of the tube will cause turbulent airflow, which, while potentially useful for achieving an even fuel mixture, could also reduce throttle response (thus my reasoning for matching the new manifold to the head). Does anyone know the size of the holes where the head meets the intake manifold? I've done some searching around the forums but am unable to find this bit of information. Thanks for your help! Any and all advice is welcome. pkz
  25. WTB: L28 Rocker Arms

    I am looking for a complete set of of rocker arms for my N42 head that I can send in to be resurfaced. Mine are too pitted to be cleaned up.
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