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Found 7 results

  1. Iam now an authorized MS vendor via Amp EFI/DIYautotune. Any products from DIY autotune I can sell. Any sale made through hbz will have a 2-5% donation to the forum ( varies from product to product ) the least I could do for the forum. Any product will be the same price as listed on DIY website and any warranties will still be covered. Also my plug and play harness will still be for sale here as well as more new efi products for hbz so be sure to keep following the progress. Original post I just happened to complete a full plug and play ms2 system was wondering if there was interest in doing some more seeing as FricFac is not doing any more . I can make them for the less cost and will include much more. Allot of hours has been put into this harness and will clearly show pictures don't do it justice. To make this worth while I would need 3-5 to start. The Essential harness will be $400 It will include: - 8-10ft harness color now 12 ft minimum coded with diagram , ignition input shielded for noise cancellation, 1 wire end to end not a hack job. all new plugs and sensors - 6x EV1 sealed injectors plugs quick disconnect - 1x GM coolant temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x GM air temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Throttle Position sensor with sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Crank Angle Sensor with plug OR l28et distributor input ( you supply plug ) - loom supplied new - lowered price from$ 490 to $400 - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires The Full Package Harness + Relays + Fusebox will be $750 will include: - Everything from Essential Harness - Main and Fuel pump Relays - Fusebox: Labelled with fuses for fuel pump, coil, ecu, 2x injectors banks. With 2 spare connections for wideband / boost controller. - 16 ft power to fuel pump and 10ft power to coil (crimped and soldered) - Main Power to battery with fuse connectors, 8ft ground for relays, 8ft switched power for relays. (crimped and soldered) - NOTE LAST 4 OPTIONS I could connect , crimp and solder everything. OR just include and label the obvious reason being placement of ECU is different for everyone - plenty of loom supplied - new - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - new relay/fusebox can handle 6 relays ie fan(s), lights, etc with 6 FUSES typical install uses 3-4 leaves 2 spare wideband , boost gauge etc - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires extras options available 4 cylinder harness, 8 cylinder harness, trigger wheels for CAS ecu panel mount custom length wires. Mega squirt hardware assembly. PM for extra options and more info. Pictured is the Full Package with ecu/relay/fuse panel mount. Not loomed/taped just to show the ACTUAL HARNESS loom will also be supplied ( for placement purposes and harness routing ability to use different holes from firewall or one )
  2. Fuel pump cutting out at idle

    Hello everyone. Not a huge issue here but just looking for some opinions. When my car is warmed up and idleing it cuts power to the fuel pump randomly and speratically. Occationally causing it to stall. It is only for a split second however sometimes it happens a few times in a row. If i rev it up by even 100 rpms it seems to go away. Im thinking either circuit board problems, bad settings, or bad connections
  3. Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btdc because it was running so rough. The car was running very rich and was backfiring with every change in throttle. i assume the ignition settings might be wrong and the fuel map is too rich. ive scaled down the fuel map and it didnt seem to change much at all. could their possibly be other more hidden settings that i also have to change. Today i tried to start it and it just kept flooding itself no matter what spark settings i change or if i scale down the fuel map. Im new to this type of stuff so any help is apreciated. ive been researching so much and tried so many things but nothing is working. thankyou.
  4. Need a map to get it running

    Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx throttle body and tps, walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, i have bypassed the fuel pressure regulator for now as it wasnt allowing fuel though. I have messed arounf with some other maps i found on the forum but none of them are perfect. I want to say my firmware is the latest for ms2 extra. i belive i have the pcb 3.0. i will atatch the tune i found and am looking thru. Anything helps thankyou. CurrentTune.zip
  5. MS2 final testing problems

    I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks
  6. Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right now, I just plan on running MS2 for fuel only. I know there is a trigger input that comes into the ECU like the stock setup. Is this acceptable for the MS2 or can I not use this. My understanding is that the injectors fire on every third pulse. Looking through wiring diagrams I put together this diagram. The 1976 datsun looks like it uses a dual coil setup with a transistor ignition box. Can I still have the megasquirt hooked up with this setup or will it not like it? Any advice would be greatly beneficial.
  7. MS2 board

    I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?
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