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Found 4 results

  1. I have a 1978 280Z, I'm new to the Z and this platform and looking to see what direction to start diagnosing this. So i'm driving one day, and car just dies. It will turn the engine over, but won't start. it appears everything electrical if off when the key in in the "On" position. then I noticed the switch is working funky, but I haven't had the car long enough to confirm is this is abnormal. but i appears to be working backwards, like everything (gauges,fuel pump etc) turns on when key in the "Acc" position, but turn off when in "ON" So I figure the switch is bad and wanted new keys anyway, ordered new ignition, same problem Where do I go from here? where can I get schematics for these cars I tried manually engaging the starter, with the key in the "acc" position, to see if it'll run since the fuel pump etc is running, but that didn't work :cry
  2. Hello people, I have start and run issues that I believe has to do with the ignition unit, or power going to it, or some open circuit relating to that. So this was a running car untill.... I installed a turbo head and the parts needed to turbo it, along with megasquirt 2. The ms is for fuel only right now and made my own harness adaptor to go from the ms2 to the stock harness using the connector from the stock ecm. I had it running off of ms before i took the engine apart using the stock ignition like im doing now. After putting the p90 head on it and stock manifold, I got rid of all emisions and everything else exept clt sensor. I added a few, so the only sensers that i have are tps, clt, iat, o2. i cut the plug for all the other sensors off to clean the harness up untill i make a complete one. Also i have high ohm inj's so i eliminated the resistors as well. What is happening is the engine is trying to start while cranking and firing, untill i stop cranking. I dont know if i made an open circuit cutting the harness up, but I jump power to the main relay for the pump and all, have power to the injs and coil when key is on. the injs stop clicking when not cranking and I believe its because the coil stops sending the signal to the ms. BTW, the ms is triggered by the negative side of the coil as a tach signal, and fuel psi is good.. I have not yet checked all the powers to the ignition module yet. Does this ring any bells, or anyone have any ideas?? Any opinions or help is greatly app.
  3. So im some serious needed help, i have a Neo RB25det running on the Power FC. I also am using Wiring specialties wiring harness. other than intercooler, intake-manifold, throttle body and injectors. metal head gasket and head studs. everything else is stock. I am the point of attempting to start my car. The car would turn over but would not fire off. The injectors basically dumped lots of fuel into the cylinders. This fuel atomized and some fuel even made into the oil. I am running a Power FC, I have initialized the system for a fresh start. I have accounted for having brand new daetschwerks larger 440cc injectors. i have spark and have checked my (mechanical timing). I have checked all coil and injector wires and they all seem to be correct, voltage is where it should be and grounds where there should be. I have spark. With the Power FC controller I can see that it has TPS reading, MAF, rpm, 02. Etc. so its seems to me like everything should be correct. The only issue I came across when trouble shooting. Was the start signal wire. At the ecu connector under the plastic cover the start signal wire was directly connected to the control system power wire. So the pump was always running on start instead of priming. and it always thought it was starting. So I connects the start signal wire to my start signal to the ecu and now its seems to be correct. Now im not sure if this would be related to my fuel dump no start issue but is seems to still not be working. I changed the oil and pulled the pugs. Cleaned the cylinders out and cleaned the plugs. Put it all back together , re initialized and set up the pwr FC and it all happens again! Im incredibly frustrated and im not sure what to do. On top of all of this it turning over very slowly. Like a weak starter or because of the hydro pressure form the excess fuel flooding the cylinders . i have a new starter on order already but i do no think it can be only issue. I have check and cleaned everything multiple times. Short of bad ECU or Bad injectors that are stuck on im not sure what to do.could there have been any damage being connected the way it was. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas! pics for attention!
  4. Hey guys, been lurking/learning for a little while from old threads, thanks to all of you for all the great info I've used already. This is my first post because I can't seem to find anyone with the same problem. The car is my first Z and is a '73 240Z with a 400 sbc (stock w/ headers) and a Saginaw 4 speed. I took the car for a short drive one night, parked it, came out the next morning and it won't start. When I turn the key to "start" the starter bendix gear engages the flywheel but does not turn. When I jump the starter solenoid to the short post, same thing happens. When I jump it to the long post, nothing happens. From what I've read, when I jumped the solenoid to the "long" post, the starter should have turned, right? Also, when it fails to start, a relay clicks and won't reset until I disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect. Is this normal? I'd like to be sure the starter is the problem, I'll have to unbolt the motor, jack it up, take off the header and spark plugs and remove the starter solenoid from the starter before it will come out. Thanks, James
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