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Found 11 results

  1. Hey guys, I just started installing my Eibach ProKit springs on my 240z. I brainlessly painted over the part numbers on the springs so I had to do a lot of research to figure out which one was which. The longer non-progressive spring is 6305.001 and goes in the front, I believe, and the progressive shorter spring is 6305.202 and goes in the rear. This is correct yes? I installed the longer non-progressive spring (what I believe to be 6305.001) on one of the front struts last night and the spring looks to be slightly bent out sideways -- i.e. it's not straight up and down. You can also see that it's not straight because the piston rod is not visibly centered within the spring. I'm not sure if it's just not seated properly or what. I did notice the spring coil ends are in the little groves in the strut cap and strut base. See the pictures below and see what you think.
  2. So I came across a hell of a deal on an s13 rear sub frame and ended up picking it up for $10 ! I've seen a few threads on this topic so don't think I haven't done my research it's just that they were all older threads and I didn't feel like resurrecting it from its hibernation. Now a few of my buddies told me that it should bolt in with little to no modification/fabricating. I know also then you could run more recent brakes (Z32 all day baby) and also have an easier platform to a 5 lug swap and better differentials. Some insight on if this will work and if it will the steps it would take. Thanks guys! - Grayson
  3. S30 Ultimate 8.8 IRS Swap Kit!

    First off, if you haven't seen my thread over in the drivetrain section, it covers a lot of technical information on the swap and reviews of the previous 6 kits I've sold. If you feel like reading through 16 pages then the link is below. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117668-the-ultimate-irs-swap-for-s30s/ Now onto the info for those of you who haven't seen my setup. What this kit allows you to do:Mount an 8.8 IRS differential from an 2002-2005 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. This is practically the same differential used in the 03/04 cobras, just cheaper and has a stronger rear cover from the factory. Use a custom differential stub axles along with off the shelf components to convert to Porsche 930 CV joints and 930 axles. A F150 front axle outer CV joint is used for the outboard CV joint. The F150 CV uses the same splines as the 930 stuff and has a 33 spline axle which goes into a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid Front Hub. The Intrepid hub has the 5x4.5" bolt pattern(Mustangs, newer Nissan's, etc). If you are looking to stay 4 lug that is an option as well. However, I am not currently planning on drilling the hubs for 4 lug, so your favorite local machine shop will need to be sourced. So from the inside to outside you have: 8.8 Differential->Custom Stub Axle->Porsche 930 CV Joint->Porsche 930 Axle->F150 Front Outer CV Joint->Dodge Intrepid Hub->Wheel. Use my custom suspension upright to mount the Intrepid Hub Assembly along with Coil-overs and Koni struts(Or other options are in the works). For brakes you have the option of either Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 2 piece 12.2" rotors, or running cobra brakes that are a popular swap for the stock rear setup Why it is the best IRS setup for S30s out there:The only custom part that is breakable is the custom differential stub axle. I make and weld on a flange to the stock Explorer Inner CV housing. In the event this becomes the weak point(Which I don't see happening). Driveshaft shop sells custom billet chromoly ones for $500 a pair. In the even the CV Joints become the weak link you can upgrade to 300M CV Joints, 300M axles, replace the F150 CV Joint with a Porsche 930 Micro stub and another 930 CV Joint(The F150 setup is cheaper). The 8.8 IRS differential has every gear ratio you could ever want for about 150 per gear set. You can get bearings/parts at your local parts store. It's an all aluminum housing so its relatively light. You can actually buy differentials for the thing(Unlike the Nissan diffs). Large wilwood brakes, koni struts, coil-overs. Budget friendly, uses lots of off the shelf parts to lower cost. What I actually provide:Front differential mount. This bolts in where the RT(Ron Tyler) style diff mount bolts in. If you have a high HP car I would recommend welding this in because the bolts/nuts have been known to come loose with a mount styled like this. The mount is up and out of the way of everything and does not impair getting the differential out if it was welded in. Rear Differential Mount/Mustache Bar. I make an aluminum(6061-T6) mustache bar that bolts to the factory studs and mounts the rear of the 8.8 diff. It uses polyurethane bushings in the same location as the stock mustache bar. Rear LCA drop down/dogbone. The rear differential mounts go through the stock LCA drop down brackets so I make a new steel one which replaces the old drop downs and bolts right to the piece which holds the bushing. 8.8 Differential Stub Axle. You send me a pair of rear explorer CV axles($100/pair on ebay). I make 930 CV flanges and weld them to the explorer stub axles. This allows you to bolt up a Porsche 930 CV joint. Suspension Upright/Strut Tube. I provide a custom upright that holds the Intrepid Hub, Wilwood(Or cobra) brakes, Koni struts(Or other options), Coil-overs from A1racing(Or any coil-over kit which fits the stock strut tubes). It uses a bolt on strut tube that has built in camber adjustment. You can use the stock strut top hat if you don't want to go to camber plates. For those running Wilwood brakes the rotor hat needs in inner bore enlarged a bit to fit over the Intrepid Hub. I can do this for $20/pair of hats. You ship the hats to me and I'll send them with the rest of your kit. Every bolt you will need to bolt it all up. Everything powder coated black, unless you really want a different color, then we can probably work something out. If you don't want anything powder coated it will save you roughly $100. Cobra brake caliper brackets are going to cost a bit extra, not sure exactly how much at this time, but probably around $40 extra. What I don't provideAnything you can buy off the shelf. I'm not into the parts selling business, I can't compete with large retailers like Summitracing.com, Jegs, Rockauto.com, etc. I provide a detailed list of everything you need which includes part numbers, links to the cheapest place I could find to buy it, prices, quantities, etc. You just go through the list and order everything and it gets shipped straight to you. This makes it cheaper for you and less of an investment on my part to order lots of parts up front. I currently do not assemble the CV axles for you. This is probably the hardest part of the whole install. The F150 CV Axle you buy from "insert auto parts store here" must be taken apart to get the outer CV joint. The shaft must actually be cut off close to the outer CV joint in order to disassemble the joint to remove the F150 shaft. It is really not that difficult its just messy(CV Grease) and a little time consuming. The 8.8 differential. You can pick these up on ebay, from junk yards, from that 02+ explorer in the walmart parking lot, etc etc. If you get it from a junk yard and can get the CV axles with it for cheap, then you are in good shape. The condition of the explorer CV axles does not matter, all I need is the inner spline portion. The 600HP+ supercharged LSx motor that Texis300 has putting power through this setup(With a clutch between the two). However, if you provide me with his motor, I will give you a kit for free. How much it will hurt your pocket book:The custom parts that I listed off above are going to cost $1350. This includes everything I listed out above. I have attached a parts list below detailing what the total setup should cost for everything but a driveshaft. My parts are listed on there too, broken down by piece, but those prices will probably only hold as a full kit. If you want individual pieces instead of the full thing, the cost will probably go up slightly. My price does not include shipping. As long as everything goes smoothly, you will pay exactly what I pay for shipping plus a small fee for packing. It cost around $70 to ship everything last time and around $10 for packaging. On the spreadsheet currently it says it will cost $3365 for everything. Keep in mind guys this is the differential, CV Axles, Wilwood brakes, Koni Struts, Coil-overs, etc. This gets you a completely new rear end with very nice, strong parts. I haven't done the numbers yet but the cobra brakes will reduce the price by several hundred I believe. I placed an order with a local laser shop to cut everything needed for 10 full sets(With the option for 5 to use cobra brakes). They have a 3 week lead time, but the order is placed and the ball is rolling(extremely overdue). I know I had a lot of people PM'ing me who were interested after I finish the first 5 sets up. I would like to keep this thread on the more purchasing/product info side of things and use the current thread in the drivetrain forum for technical questions, etc. Feel free to ask questions on here, on the other thread, or shoot me a PM. As many others have found out, I'm a senior Mechanical Engineering student, I work full time now, so I get quite busy at times but I try to keep up best I can. This is a side business for me(for now) so sometimes my day job/school gets put first unfortunately. I have attached pictures below, rather than make this post extremely long I will just leave them in the attached section. I have also uploaded the parts list as a PDF. -Will S30 8.8 Swap Parts List.pdf
  4. Hi, I'm looking for a used msa victory or retro spec downforce spoiler for my 280z. Fiberglass is acceptable. Looking at all tall spoilers but not the whale tail style. If you have one you are interested in letting go please PM me or comment below. Thank you
  5. Ok let's start a list of who's interested, consider this a pre-buy since they are going to be produced anyway... Intro price will be $260+ship Installation: 1. cutting strut tube 2. drill a hole in the bottom 3. clean everything thoroughly with acetone or other potent solvent 4. installing the adapter oriented correctly with panelbond or equivalent glue 5. torque bolt with stainless spacer underneath to 150ft-lbs, locktite recommended Requires: 1. almost any front s13 coilover or other coilover with s13 lower bracket 2. suitable 240Z top hat for coilover (or universal) *** I will be producing a batch of stepped washers to use s14 brackets on s13 spindles or this adapter for extra cost... Benefits: 1. will allow up to 9 degrees of camber adjustment depending on coilover bracket 2. doesn't require camber plates 3. has set screw on adapter to mark camber locations for disassembly 4. pre-set screws can be made for quick road or track alignments 5. lightweight aluminum body, stainless lower plate, oversized retaining bolt, approx. 700grams total 6. adds up to 1.5" of backspacing depending on wheel used 7. allows really wide wheels Let's make a list... 1...... 2...... 3......
  6. I would like to purchase a decent condition rear hatch for Datsun s30 coupe. I hope that the part has minimal rust. Glass is not needed. Please send your offers with pictures to my private message or by e-mail [email protected]
  7. Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo
  8. Rear Main Seal Size?

    Hello HybridZ, I have been in the process of rebuilding an L28 engine with mild cam i picked up for $250 with a 5 speed. The block is a F54 with N47 head and has P79 pistons. The previous owner said "it only needs new valve seals to run right"... So I hot tanked the block, installed new rings, valve seals, some bolts here and there, all gaskets, and seals...and some more parts (cant remember at the moment: nothing major though) Now that i am assembling the new engine, the rear main seal is of incorrect size. I originally ordered an aftermarket one off motorsport auto, but it does not match the one out of the block. I took it back, and tried my luck with black dragon's rear main seal...but that did not work either. So i spent all of today scouring the internet for the origin of this seal from my block. The original seal is labeled "NDK - angus", as well as "SGL2 80 100 13 si". Even searching the measurements did nothing for me. The guy who helped me at motorsport auto (i forget his name unfortunately) told me that all L6 motors from L24 through L28 turbo blocks use the size they offer, but it does not seem to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures shortly. - Wes
  9. WTB 280Z stub axles

    Wanted to buy two 280Z stub axles, mine are damaged. Let me know what you have and how much you want for them shipped to Wisconsin - Thanks
  10. BRAKE KITS ON SALE- JANUARY!!!

    In order to ring in the new year, and celebrate our 6th year of being in business we have decided to give Hybridz forum members a discount on all our brake upgrades! The sale will be for the month of January 2013 The new prices are as follows: Stage 4 front kit (s30) = $445 (has not been this inexpensive since they came out) Stage 3 front brake kit (s30) = $305 (240z kit is $375) Rear stage 4 brake kit (s30) = $755 280zx stage 4 front kit = $629 Pm or email me for these prices [email protected] Or call me at (818) 636-2797 Here are the pics and descriptions for each brake kit. For more info. Go to silver mine motors.com Stage 4 front brake kit = $445 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This brake kit comes with the following parts: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. Vented, slotted, and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. Ceramic brake pads 6. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280z and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Pleas allow one week for parts to be built and shipped out after payment is received. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 kits Willwood sells, so you do the math. Pleas specify what type of z car you have when you order! Stage 3 kit (front) brake kit Sale price: $345 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This kit includes: 1. Four piston calipers 2. Slotted and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads As you can see this is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. This is a big brake kit for any Datsun zcar made during 1970-1978. The calipers are four piston calipers, which are a big increase in piston size as opposed to the dual piston caliper that came on the car from the factory. The slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. They are also steel braided with a layer of clear lamination to prevent expansion of the line under pressure. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final Stage 4 rear big brake kit = $755 This kit includes: 1. Pair of new 11.8 inch CNC drilled, slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors. 2. Pair of brand new Enormous1.6 inch (43mm) single piston calipers with e-brake function. 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy brackets. 6. All the needed hardware. 7. Installation instructions. As you can see this is a complete brake kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. There is currently no other brake kit with e-brake function on the market that has bigger piston calipers than this brake kit. The calipers are the strongest calipers in any rear brake kit available with e-brake for our Z cars. They feature 1.6 inch pistons (43mm) and an amazingly strong e-brake function. These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores so replacing them is not a problem. They originally came off a car with 500 hp from the factory. So you can believe they will stop your light z car with whip lashing power! The pair of Drilled, Slotted, Vented, machine balanced, and Zink plated rotors are professionally built with precision C.N.C. machines. They are Zink plated which prevents them from rusting. The rotors are also vented which will greatly lower the chances of brake fade under extreme driving conditions. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today, except that they are much much stronger. So you can believe they will not have any safety problems. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The ceramic brake pads are built by Posi Quiet. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I can also get you different types of pads if you email me what you?re looking for. This kit does require 15 inch rims or bigger. It will hook up right to your stock e-brake cable. Installation requires you to either: 1. Remove your stub axels. 2. Or cut of your stock drum brake backing plate. One good thing about removing your stub axels is that you get to change your old wheel bearings, which I strongly recommend you do, unless you already have. I personally have this brake kit on my car and let me tell you, I can give my unexpecting passengers whip lash when I press on my brakes. The car stops on the dime, even when I?m going well over 100 miles per hour. I use to have the maxima caliper brake kit with the 300zx rotors and it is nowhere near as strong as this kit. Note: 1. For you people who have re drilled you stub axels to a 5x4.5 lug pattern this brake kit should work for your car as well. 2. You should also think about using a bigger master cylinder when you buy this kit, the added piston area will use more brake fluid than your stock brakes. I can supply you with one for an additional $65. comparison 240sx caliper vs. our stage 4 rear brake kit caliper. 280zx stage 4 front brake kit =$629 This brake kit includes: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. 11.8 inch CNC drilled, diamond slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy steel brackets, with Zink plating to prevent rusting 6. Ceramic brake pads 7. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores, so replacing them is not a problem. The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are, the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The brackets also come zink platted to prevent rusting. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280zx and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 brake kits Willwood sells, so you do the math.
  11. Does anyone know the difference between Back Hatch Seal and Deck Lid Seal? They look the same to me, but one is $6 per foot, and the other is $12 per foot. http://www.metrommp.com/ > Online Catalogue > 1971 > Nissan > 240z (I cannot copy the address) Thanks.
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