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Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on what to do for the next step of my 240z project. I have the car stripped down to a rolling shell with the engine bay primered and the underside undercoated already. I'm debating between sanding down the exterior and interior to factory primer, repairing any trouble spots in the process, and then shooting paint OR having the interior and exterior media blasting with fine crushed glass (hopefully less likely to warp) and then shooting paint. The factory paint looks okay. There are few spots that have cracked and are peeling but overall it's not bad. Some spots will have to come down to bare metal anyway for repairing. Which route do you guys think I should take? I have a large compressor and the tools to do the sanding. Media blasting would make the following easier, though: One big issue is rust. There are several rust spots that I'm concerned about and am not sure what to do about. There's rust around the inside perimeter of the roof. There's rust inside the passenger and driver side vent plenums that run to the engine bay. There's rust inside the cowl area. There's some rust in the rockers (not too bad) and the dog legs are pretty rusty. I boroscoped most of these places and have some pictures below. The worst of it all is in the dog legs. In the other spots there rest seems to be bubbling a little but mostly on the surface -- some pitting. I'lllet the pictures do the talking. The car: Dog legs: I will most likely be replacing these. Inside the rear wheel-well area above the dog legs: Around the the inner perimeter of the roof: It's rusted most of the way around and the rust goes into the recessed area all the way around. This is perhaps only surface rust and would come off with a wire wheel, but the issue is accessing this area. This is where blasting would be nice and this is one of my biggest concern areas. Inside the driver and passenger vent air plenums: Some other rust around the hatch sill: What do you guys think I should do about the rust areas? Should I get everything blasted as best they can do then seal it? Should I sand/wire brush everything I can and treat it with some ospho or other converter then seal it and use cavity wax? I have these products on hand. I've already put a lot of money into this project so I'm all in and want this to be near show quality and last a long time. I don't know if it's worth it to split the seams on some of that rust or not. How hard is it to remove the roof? I did my own floor pans, battery box, and frame rails.
I'm going to get rid of the sunroof in my project car. I have a roof I bought on eBay a while back, and I have a spare that I got with a parts car that I just bought. I am planning on going the route of using a spotweld cutter to remove the spotwelds on the roof and replacing the whole skin. Through doing some reading, I have seen a few approaches to this, and wanted to run it by everyone to see if this is the best way. I haven't started yet, so let me know if any of this is un-doable, or going to be unnecessarily difficult. Donor roof: Make pilot holes through the spotwelds from the top; cut the spotwelds off from the underside. This results in a smaller hole in the donor roof and less filling. Removing roof on project car: Use grinder to carefully cut away spotwelds to minimize chance of going too deep with the spotweld cutter. I am assuming that there are spotwelds across the front and back of the roof (windshield/hatch) as well, and it's not leaded in there? If so, then I just need to remove all the spotwelds around the roof, heat up the seams on the A and B pillars to melt the lead and it will come off? How is the roof molded into the drip rails? Is there anything special I'll need to do there, after getting the spotwelds removed, to remove the skin? Thanks for any help, I just want to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I need to do before I start digging in.