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Found 159 results

  1. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  2. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  3. Just finished the first 2jz crossmember for a customer on here!!
  4. Selling my 1973 Datsun 240z on Bring A Trailer. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-43/ LS1 engine, T-56 transmission Exterior: White 2,400 miles since rebuild Located in San Diego, CA More details on bring a trailer in link above. Contact: John DM for contact info and questions.
  5. I've always wanted to see a philosophy thread on HybridZ. It never ceases to amaze me how unique and quirky the Datsun following tends to be... and even more so how much we have in common despite are differences in backgrounds, etc. There are a lot of generalizations that can be made about people drawn to American muscle cars, German performance and luxury, etc. In my experience Z owners tend to be very smart individuals relative to the general population as well as automotive enthusiast groups. (Clearly we have fine taste.) This could go a number of philosophical directions, about kindred human passions, the living spirit of Mr. K, the brand of Datsun's emergence after WW2's bombs, the commonality between Z owners.... you could even present an esoteric possibility such as Z owners' souls tend to come from the same quadrant of the galaxy or something about how HybridZ [sometimes] epitomizes focused, collaborative human achievements. All are of interest to me... but rather than lay my interests and thoughts out, I'd like to ask if others have had any similar observations and have pondered their implications or meaning?
  6. Will ship any of these parts, shipping included in price! paypal is [email protected] These parts were all taken off my 78 280z 2+2 in good used original working condition for the v8 conversion. * 2+2 4 speed drive shaft with slip yoke and flange $150 *clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir $25 *4spd shifter with nice original Datsun shift knob $80 *Transmission mount bushings good surface rust w/ bolts $30 *Ignition module / computer worked as it should light corrosion on case $40 I will add to the thread as I find more parts in the garage and take pictures. Thanks for viewing!
  7. Chandler347

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  8. Pac_Man

    Door Issues

    Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man
  9. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
  10. I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!!
  11. As you all can undoubtedly tell I'm new to the forum and decided that I might as well document my build for my own purpose of keeping track of things and organizing my plans and thoughts. This is the first time I've created a build thread for any of my projects so bare with me and don't pile the BS up to high, I'm kinda short and I don't swim to well in the green stinky stuff. I've always loved the look of Zs and I have wanted one for quite sometime. The opportunity has presented itself recently for me to get one from a co-worker who has decided to part with an extra "parts" car that he has a few miles from my house. I checked the VIN tag and it appears to be a '75 280z. The engine and manual trans are in unknown condition and the body is in desperate need of paint and some rust repair, but what neglected S30 doesn't need all of those areas fixed. All of that a side the cost of the car is pulling the LH door for him to install on his '70 240z or find an acceptable replacement for his current door and the car is mine. A couple of days after being told that I can have the car a local classifieds had a fairly complete VK56DE out of a 2005 Armada for free with a spun #4 rod bearing and otherwise pristine internals. The seller included a fairly complete engine wiring harness, injectors, fuel rails, intake, block, heads, internals and oil pan as well (some items are already removed and on the shelf). I've always liked the raspy growl of ITB injections setups but can't stomach the price tag on my salary, but while looking around at a few other VK56 builds on other forums I decided that if I'm going to go thru the all of the fabrication headaches of stuffing the beast in I might as well go big or go home. So I researched some different options using extrudabody, gsxr throttle bodies and a few other motorcycles until I came across some really inexpensive BMW units on ebay. I paid $2 and shipping for 4 throttle bodies in a bulk buy and they arrived last friday, and another one is on it's way with the injector and TPS for under $20. I'm on the look out for some good deals on the remaining three units. These ones have a stock 336cc/min injector vs the vk56 286cc/min from what I've been able to find online, they also have a straight thru 45mm ID and the injector will clip right into the factory VK fuel rail. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the BMW injectors for sure yet, I'm thinking initially I will just install the VK units with a small press fit bushing to reduce the bottom sealing boss to 14mm from 16mm. I already ordered some replacement shaft bushing as they are a known problem for the BMW oilheads and talked to a few friends about linkage and shaft design. I think I can get an 8mm precision stainless shaft to run thru all 4 on each side and then put a cam arm on each bank with a solid link to a torque arm and cable pulley in the center done failry easily. Once I finish getting the adapter plates for the head to throttle body modeled in solid works I'll be able to get a better idea of the specifics. The spun rod and crank need to be addressed first though, but I've got some mad scientist ideas for that in the back of my head too, we'll see what the engine shop machinist has to say first... As far as drivetrain goes I'm still researching and trying to decide what transmission option will be the best in regards to price, ease of conversion, longevity and power handling capabilities. The top two choices currently are a Z32 manual or a CD0009. Differential will initially stay the stock open R200 until I get the bugs of the engine and trans swap all worked out and then as funds and the necessity for stronger parts come into play either an R230 swap of some form or the Ultimat IRS 8.8 that wfritts911 has worked out in the drivetrain section. Just clarify for those still reading this I am well aware of how difficult and intense this swap will be and that many people all over the web have started, talked about and never completed the swap but there are some who have paved the way in S130s, buggies, 240sx, 350s and 370s. All of that being said this will be a pretty drawn out and long process as I don't have a set pool of money to just throw at a project until completed. I've got 4 kids and I'm the bread winner for our family working 1 full-time and 2 part time jobs. I do how ever have some very good connections with a few local machine shops, mechanical engineers, fabricators and professional welders. I also work full time at a government shop where I can use any of the tooling and facilities after hours that I don't have at home as long as I clean up after myself. That's about all I can stand to write for now, as things progress I'll try to take lots of pictures and document as much as possible.
  12. I finished my LS1 and 4l60e swap this spring into my s30. Have enjoyed driving it this year. My plan this winter was to pull the motor and trans and rebuild them. Both are bone stock. Motor is going to be completely rebuilt with c/h/i. While trans is getting built up to handle more power and fix failing clutches. That was until my friend at the junkyard called and said he has a ls3/6l80e with harness and pedal out of a 2013 Camaro ss with 50k miles. I can get it for about $4300. I know the ls3 is no issue, but I can’t find anyone who has put a 6l80e. How much bigger is it than a 4l80e? My LS1 has about 180k miles on it and by the time I rebuild both it and trans with a higher stall, I figure I will have about what the ls3 pull would cost me. My Z was originally an automatic, as was the donor z28 Camaro I took the original drivetrain from. I guess I could always convert to manual and run a t56. Is a 6l80e something I can message in, or is it a major surgery not worth messing with.
  13. When i realized my 240z project was too rusty under all the bondo to bother i was bummed out. When my 300zx motor started to sound like a washing machine full of rocks i was ready to give up on life. When my boss told me i needed to get my junk cars out of the shop, I completely lost my mind and offered him $2000 for "everything i need to make it move" out of the various salt water flooded mustangs in the shop. We restored flooded cars and shipped them over seas btw. Note the giant pile of wires!
  14. MrCheezle

    Datsun hood

    From the album: 71 240z

    Getting the hood ready for some paint.
  15. MrCheezle

    240z hood

    From the album: 71 240z

    The under side of the hood painted flat black in the center and gloss on the edges.
  16. MrCheezle

    Steering wheel

    From the album: 71 240z

    Tried to clean up the steering wheel.
  17. MrCheezle

    My 240z after some paint

    From the album: 71 240z

    After putting everything back on it's looking much better. I really need to take care of that signal light though.
  18. Hey guys, I don't really have a garage anymore due to Harvey and we are actually leaving the city for the Pacific NW coast sometime next year so I'm kind of in a bind. I have a '72 240z with some extensive rust. I can't really attempt to do this myself as a project any longer and I thought about selling her and buying another after I move, but I don't want to lose this car and try and find another which will probably be in a similar state anyway. Is there a shop in Houston that you recommend for the rust repair? I've been in contact with Awesome Z (Doug) and HoustonZAuto. Is there anyone else I should consider leaving my car with for the repair? Thanks in advance!
  19. MrCheezle

    Painted horn and hinge

    From the album: 71 240z

    Painted horn and hinge.
  20. MrCheezle

    Cleaned up horn and hing parts

    From the album: 71 240z

    After cleaning up the horn, hinge and hardware.
  21. MrCheezle

    Front reassembly

    From the album: 71 240z

    I put most of the front pieces back together but I'm waiting to paint the underside of the hood so I can adjust it while the grill is off.
  22. MrCheezle

    Radiator support

    From the album: 71 240z

    Cleaning up the radiator support area.
  23. MrCheezle

    Front nose panted

    From the album: 71 240z

    Front nose panted.
  24. MrCheezle

    Front end parts

    From the album: 71 240z

    Parts taken off to be cleaned up and painted.
  25. MrCheezle

    Center console restoration

    From the album: 71 240z

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