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Showing results for tags 'shift'.
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Hey guys, I make custom engraved shift knobs. Available in brushed or polished 7075 aluminum, also available in wood. Custom engraved with any design of your choice. I also do custom dimensions, as well as stainless steel weighted inserts. Standard size for the wooden and aluminum knobs is 1.5" diameter, 2.5" height. The cost for these knobs is $45 plus $5.95 shipping. Custom knobs (to your specs) are available! The price will elevate with added length or width, and if weighted inserts are added. Just send me an email or a PM for more details or with any questions, and I would love to help you out! Thank you! You can visit the website for more information: www.bluefiremachineworks.com John Mitchell [email protected]
With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift light indicator would work when fitted to distributor ignitions - ie what that signal looks like coming off the coil, or similarly even just how a tachometer works in that sense. So really the key is confirming that it is a 12V square wave with frequency reflecting that of all spark plugs firing. I have a multimeter but no data collection hardware at my house. I presume its 12V at the positive terminal where the tach connects. I have a 3 ohm coil, no ballast resistor. I have an electronic dizzy but thinking about it as points seems viable and simpler, so my thinking that I'd like to verify (please correct if wrong): voltage builds in coil when the contact is closed then releases into plug when it opens. so i would think there would be 12V at the input terminal when the contactor is closed and goes to zero when it fires - thus spark signal could be considered a falling edge triggered event. Although necessary to make sure I'm thinking correctly, that level of detail isn't really functionally necessary as all we need is frequency of this signal. I could just determine the RPM I would like the light to go off at, then correct to 'revolutions per second' then multiply by 3 (inline 6 = 3 ignitions per revolution) and we have target cutoff frequency to design circuit for. Right? I havent thought through the circuitry too much yet but generally seems like it would just be: high pass filter (tweaked to frequency) --> inverter --> light (?) Arduino may have the advantage of multiple RPM set points without having to reassemble the circuit. Then just use whatever kind of light - maybe even under the windshield vents as a HUD As I said any recommendation / correction / resouce is welcomed. Thanks in advance. Ben
Hey All, I've searched all over for this topic and can't quite find what I'm looking for. Part of it may be my being green in the drivetrain area. I took a 76 280z (CA) and put the motor and 5spd from a 77 280z (2+2) in. After getting everything in place, the car drives and goes through gears 1-4 okay. It won't go into 5th no matter what and has a little trouble with reverse. From what I've read this sounds like a shift fork replacement is in order. I don't see any interference issues with the shifter and tunnel. 1) Would you put your money on this needing a fork replacement? 2) If so, I assume this requires pulling the trans... I'm a little hesitant with my skill level to make any assumptions at this point and start dissecting 3) Any guides or advice on approaching this? Note: I do have the 4 speed I pulled out of the car if there is anything I can use from it. Sorry for the naivety... I'm dying to finally get some summer fun out of this thing. Thanks!