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Found 9 results

  1. Another Z with Jay Leno
  2. sr20 Fueling

    Hello everyone, i had a question regarding the sr20det swap into the s30 chassis more specifically a 280z. What needs to be done so that the egnine can get enough fuel for about 250-300 crank horsepower reiably? Getting a fuel cell isnt really an option since i plan to daily this car in the future. I was just curious what everyone else was using in terms of fueling in their ka/sr swaps.
  3. Hi All, Had a seller drop out after many months of waiting sort of patiently and am on the hunt again for a 240 with a SR20DET swap. I was a passenger in one and the balance blew my mind... I've always wanted one, but this was the "must have" turning point. What I care about: A car that is solid mechanically. I do not care if the interior is crap and/or only has one seat. I live in an apartment and don't have a garage, so doing my own swap or heavy installs is unfortunately out of the question. Budget: ~$13,000.... That's the top end, but if you have a car that has been stripped down to the frame and cleaned of rust, lets talk. I'm sure I could find some stuff to sell or give you a kidney. If you're in the market for a 2010 Ford Escape with 45k miles because you just brought a beautiful little child into this world or you realized that you just desperately need a small suv, that can be part of the negotiation. Requirements: - SR20DET swap - Solid body Wants: - S14 5 Speed - New floor pans - Autopower roll bar - Tech Toys control arms - LSD If you think you might have the car for me or know of someone who might, please don't hesitate to send a message. I am very serious about this purchase. Be assured that if you sell me your 240, it will be loved and cared for. I am in California, so obviously a CA car would be nice, but I am willing to ship for the right car. Oh - I will also do a build thread on this site documenting everything so you can watch your beauty age gracefully. Thanks!
  4. Hello people First of all, it's an sr20 in a '78 280z in which my brother and I did everything except the wiring which was done by a shop (with a new "Painless" wiring harness). Right, so earlier this week the car died on the way home so we towed it home and found out the fuel pump was not working because it was not getting power. With some tests with a multimeter, we concluded the wire is broken somewhere in the harness. Instead of following the wire through the maze of the harness to find the problem, I wired the pump directly to the battery, with a toggle switch, and the pump definitely works as it makes a sound. But it still wont start. It cranks fine, the fuel tank is full, but it wont fire. What could be wrong? Is it not ok to wire the fuel pump directly to the battery? Is the problem somewhere other than the fuel system? Thanks!
  5. Hey guys I've read so many threads on here an have always wanted a 240z. Recently my dad and I decided to do a joint project on one. It is basically his car, but since I know a lot about these cars and how people modify them I am helping choose which parts to buy, and then I am installing everything I am able to. Here's the car we picked up from a guy in Gilroy. It has a rebuilt L24 with a 280 5 speed. Even with the 2.4L this thing rips! We're keeping it in my mom's driveway since that's where all of my tools are; I have a Volvo 242 project car I am already working on there Changed the oil and flushed the coolant dropped the plastic wing nut from the radiator in there so it was fun fishing it out I left for college and won't be back until spring break. My dad had me take the car to a shop so they could fab up a cage while I'm gone. Future plans for car: Gnose bumper- ordered fender mirrors- ordered headlight lenses- ordered ZG flares- ordered BRE style wing- ordered AZC track pack suspension kit- ordered SR20DET swap- I know some people here would rather an L28ET/SBC but that's the route my dad and I have chosen 6 point cage- currently being fabbed Bucket seats Paint RS Watanabe- still figuring out sizing That's it for now just thought I'd introduce myself and the car
  6. Up for sale is a 1972 Datsun 240Z which has been infused with carefully considered modern performance & reliability, while retaining the outward appearance of a clean & modest classic sports car. I have spent the last 7+ years as this Z's caretaker and have lovingly poured countless hours into researching (thanks HybridZ!) and working to bring this car along a path towards what I envisioned as its ultimate potential. It has been my pride and joy for the better part of the last decade, but as my family has come to me in a time of need, I must put true priorities first - and hope someone will carry on where I have left off and thoroughly love, enjoy and preserve this amazing vehicle well into the future. What is now for sale is a car that is thoroughly sorted, tastefully modified (SR20 swap was performed by Vildini Motorsport), professionally maintained (by "Pierre' Z Car" - whom Nissan Motor Corp hired to restore early Z's: http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2007/12/01/hmn_feature19.html) and was tuned by experts (XS Engineering)...a car that will turn heads and generate conversations everywhere you go...as well as wipe the smile off the face of a Corvette or Evo owner who doesn't show the proper respect. Or better still, will leave YOU with a perma-grin every time you sit in the driver's seat. This Z could be used as a commuter (it has been a weekend/perfect day car for me), as easily as it could be taken to the track as-is for the driving experience of a lifetime. This is NOT some cobbled together aftermarket-special by someone with more money than taste and common sense. Every move has been methodical with utmost respect to the vehicle's heritage, reliability, performance, driver's enjoyment and forward-looking to its potential future uses and possible ultimate expressions of one of the greatest cars ever made. SUMMARY - 1972 Datsun 240Z (HLS30-88353) - 1993 SR20DET w/ 5-speed transmission - Output: ~232 WHP and ~211 lb/ft torque @ 14 psi - Estimated weight: 2100 lbs. - Roughly 70,000 miles on the drivetrain (refreshed 25k miles ago), exact mileage on chassis unknown (estimated by research at 185,000 miles) - 4th Owner - have put 25,000 miles on it over 7.5 years (less than 3500 miles/year) - many new & upgraded parts during my ownership - Have All Maintenance Records, Receipts & Instruction Manuals - The car has spent its entire life in California & Arizona (1 year) - Clean Title in Hand - Smog Exempt - Current CA Registration (expires in January) PRICE: $14,000 MOTOR & DRIVETRAIN - 1993 Nissan SR20DET ('redtop') - 2.0L, 4-cylinder, DOHC, 16-valve, turbo (redline set at 7800 RPM) - Swap performed by Vildini Motorsport ("SR240Z" is a member of this forum) in 2003 - Motor has approx. 70,000 miles - 'refreshed' 25k miles ago at time of swap (seals, bearings, gaskets) - Motor mounted behind front axle for a proper "Front Mid-Engine" layout, resulting in improved weight distribution & handling - Tuned & Dyno tested at XS Engineering: ~232 whp and ~211 lb/ft torque @ 14 psi - Custom Motor Mounts (Vildini) - Firewall mildly reshaped for optimal motor positioning - 5-speed manual transmission (S13 ) - Apex'i Power FC Engine Management - Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers (protective measure for reliable high-revving) - Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel - ACT S/S Clutch - NEW Clutch Master Cylinder - Custom Driveshaft (Vildini) - PowerBrute Limited-Slip Differential (3.9 Final) - Howe Aluminum Radiator - Intercooler & powdercoated piping - Electric Fan with manual override - Custom Cold-Air Intake - Z32 MAF Sensor (S13 MAF sensor spliced in if ever want to revert to stock) - Garrett T-25 Turbocharger - Greddy Type-S Blow-off Valve - Greddy Intake Manifold - Megan Racing Exhaust Manifold - Custom Turbo Elbow - SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator - Walbro Electric Fuel Pump - Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge - Power Enterprise 550cc Fuel Injectors - Custom Fuel Surge Tank (Vildini) - NEW Gas Tank (OEM) - Custom Oil Catch Can - NISMO Thermostat - Blitz Boost Controller - Blitz Turbo Timer - Custom Turbo-Back 3" Exhaust & Muffler (straight pipe - no Cats - Smog Exempt) SUSPENSION, CHASSIS & BRAKES - Tokico Springs front & rear (1" lower than stock) - Tokico shocks (non-adjustable) - Autopower 4-pt. Rollbar - Cusco Front Strut Tower Brace - Arizona Z-Car Differential Mount/Brace - 300zx (Z31) rotors & 280ZX Turbo Calipers (front) - OEM Brake Drums in rear w/ Carbon-Metallic Brake Shoes - NEW Brake Master Cylinder EXTERIOR & WHEELS - MSA Type-II Front Air Dam - BRE-style Rear Spoiler (carbon fiber) - Shaved Antenna - Konig Rewind Wheels (15x7 - graphite w/ polished lip) - classic Panasport/Watanabe look - NEW Wheel Bearings (all around) - Sumitomo HRZ Tires (205/50/15) - 60% tread left - "Euro"-style chrome bumpers (no 'overriders' or rubber inserts) - Painted 'aero' side mirrors - Sparco Hood Pins - Tinted windows (light tint on side windows, shade darker in rear quarter windows) - Pop-up sunroof - Car was repainted in original White in 2007 INTERIOR - Radio & HVAC deleted for weight savings - Sound-deadening, insulation & carpet removed for weight savings (carpet retained on passenger floor for female passengers) - Apex'i Power FC Commander (customized engine monitoring & live tuning) - Custom center console with Boost Controller & Turbo Timer - LeCarra Steering Wheel (leather) - Autometer Boost Gauge - Autometer Tachometer - Nismo Shift Knob - Razo 'Broadway' Rear-view Mirror - NEW Rear Hatch Seal - OEM 240Z seats - OEM Fuel/Temperature Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge & Clock KNOWN ISSUES - There is a very small patch of rust at the bottom-left of the rear hatch window/seal and some very minor spots of bubbling beneath the doors, towards the front wheels. This is a fairly common occurrence on early Z's and I have done my best to mitigate its progression. Ultimately I wished to replace the hatch with a carbon fiber unit, but never got there. There is NO rust to the frame or any other structural part of the car. - The speedometer doesn't accurately read below 30 MPH. Above 30 MPH, it works fine. I never needed to look at the speedo below that speed and so never invested the money to get it fixed. It is a wire speedo and a relatively simple fix, should you care to do so. - The dash has cracks. There are many sources for replacement dashes (or dash covers) and I can point you in the right direction if that matters to you. I left it as-is to remind myself that it is a 41-year old car with a heritage worthy of respect and admiration...kinda like that awesome scar you tell stories about. - 1 or 2 very minor door dings on the driver-side that you can only see if you squint with one-eye from a certain angle. I am the type of guy who obsessively notices such things, so I'd prefer to be upfront about it. Couldn't get them to show up in pictures. - There is minor vibration/noise in very narrow RPM ranges (dependent on gear, temp and other factors) as the exhaust grazes the firewall when the engine rocks slightly under heavy load. This is a result of mounting the engine as far back as possible for optimal weight distribution. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all, but sometimes it does. - There is a scratch in the tint in the passenger side window. DISCLOSURE OF ACCIDENT HISTORY: - The only known incident with this car was some rear-end body damage in 2006 in a minor collision (thus the paint job), at which time the frame was verified as 100% straight and bodywork professionally restored by Pierre' Z. Pictures show the current condition. To reaffirm, the Title is clean. I am more than happy to answer any questions you might have and to supply additional pictures and documentation as needed. You will not be disappointed with this car and I have described it as accurately as possible to the best of my knowledge. I only ask that you respect my time and yours by noting that I will not entertain lowball offers, do not have interest in trades at this time, nor will I give test drives to those with no serious intentions to buy. Thank you for your interest in this amazing Z. PRICE: $14,000
  7. Hi guys im so excited to make my first post. My dad, brother and I have just bought a '78 280z for $2000. There's no engine in it but its got mounts for an sr20det we plan to install. Everything else looks pretty good. Already got tokico springs and a nice body. We're thinking about ordering a JDM engine but were open to any suggestions on getting an engine. Im located in San Jose. Any recommendations for a good shop around here we could buy parts or that could help us out? Thanks guys, i'll keep updating this with our progress and pics. Gonna be a fun summer!
  8. Help on SR20

    Hello Datsun Nation! I’m new to this forum, and i have a couple of questions in mind. I have been wanting to buy a 240z, 260z, or 280z for the past few years, and now that I have saved a little bit of money; i am ready to start looking for one. I have seen quite a few Z's with SR20s and LS1s swaps, which has only persuaded me to do the same. However, i would love to get your guys opinion an expertise of installing an SR20. I would love to have an LS1, but quite frankly, i think it would be too much $. Furthermore, since i am not a mechanic, i will most like need to have a professional mechanic install the motor. With that said, i have an idea of how much an SR20 costs, but how much will it cost me to have it installed? Of course, this swap is not going to come immediately after my purchase, but i would eventually love to have a Z with an SR20. I look forward to reading everybody’s suggestions, opinions, and experiences when it comes to swapping/upgrading a motor in a Z, especially those who currently have an SR20 on their Z.
  9. So I have my 260z and I 3 engines and transmissions for it (stock/original engine and tranny, a second L26 and tranny, and a "drift modified" sr20 and tranny). I have the stock engine being overhauled and rebuilt right now while I have the second L26 under the hood right now and driving on it, but I am wondering if it is worth my time, effort or money to have it built back up to ever swap out my stock engine with or if I should just sell it off. The sr20 was built up by a mechanic that had it in his drift car before he wrecked it. But I don't know if I want to take the time to switch it out with the stock/matching numbers engine that I will be putting back into my 260z in Feb. and I was looking for anyones advice or input
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