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Found 15 results

  1. Like the title says Q45 throttle body with TPS and pig tails $180 shipped.
  2. Blew my turbo on the way back from SoCal. Rather than buy a replacement turbo, I figured it's time for an upgrade. So I did some research and bought the ISR(formerly know as ISIS) Performance RS3871. I'm planning on doing a top mount set up and haven't seen any info on what will and what won't work fitment wise. Is it their any issues that I need to worry about? I've seen photos of top mount set ups on the interwebs so I am just hoping is super easy and all I have to do is buy the top mount manifold and the supporting mods. BTW: these are the turbo specs Compressor side 3" inlet Exhaust side 0.64 A/R turbine housing, Results: This turbo is rated up to ~380hp.
  3. krispy0101

    sr20det engine in a 280z?

    Hello! I am interested in switching out a stock 280z's engine for a nissan sr20det. i have heard that this is not a very easy swap, and i was wondering what i would need to do it. the 280z is currently stock. thanks for any replies!
  4. Hello everybody first i send a greeting to all and grateful from the beginning of any support can provide me I am about to build a 1970 Datsun 240Z and I would like to make a change (SWAP) from the beginning many people told me that SR20DET is one of the best engines for this change because of its low cost and accessibility of parts But my question is what i would need to change when i make the swap? example: * Engine * Transmission * rear diff * driveshaft * axles Which would be also the best SR20DET to put (s13 / s14 / s15) and which transmission (5 speed or 6 speed) i will like to go into the 300-350 hp again any help that any one can offer I will be grateful i 'm putting together a dream that I've always had and it's good to hear people who have tips that may help regards joe
  5. christopher nguyen

    SR20DET For Trade

    I have a SR20DET redtop motor, transmission, wiring harness, and ECU up for trade. I apologize, but I do not know the exact mileage. This motor was pulled from a running 240sx that was rear ended. There are absolutely no known issues with any of the items. I can certainly provide pictures upon request. I would like to trade for: The common 3.1 stroker setup L28et engine, transmission, wiring harness, ecu LD28 crankshaft + cash stroker components + cash Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 405-412-1676 for more details. Thanks for your time!
  6. christopher nguyen

    SR20DET for L28 Stroker

    I purchased a redtop sr20det from a guy parting out his 240sx. I have the engine, transmission, and wiring harness. I would like to trade for an l28 stroker or an l28et, transmission, and wiring harness. I'm located in Oklahoma City. Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 4o5-4one2-1676.
  7. Hey guys, I'm trying decide which radiator to buy for my sr20det swap in my Z. I want to spend around 3-400 dollars. If anyone has had a good experience with a certain radiator I would appreciate the input.
  8. 280zsr20det

    16

  9. 280zsr20det

    1976 280Z, SR20DET Swap

    Some pictures of my Z
  10. 280zsr20det

    280Z, SR20DET

    Just wanted to introduce myself and say hello!
  11. Up for sale is a 1972 Datsun 240Z which has been infused with carefully considered modern performance & reliability, while retaining the outward appearance of a clean & modest classic sports car. I have spent the last 7+ years as this Z's caretaker and have lovingly poured countless hours into researching (thanks HybridZ!) and working to bring this car along a path towards what I envisioned as its ultimate potential. It has been my pride and joy for the better part of the last decade, but as my family has come to me in a time of need, I must put true priorities first - and hope someone will carry on where I have left off and thoroughly love, enjoy and preserve this amazing vehicle well into the future. What is now for sale is a car that is thoroughly sorted, tastefully modified (SR20 swap was performed by Vildini Motorsport), professionally maintained (by "Pierre' Z Car" - whom Nissan Motor Corp hired to restore early Z's: http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2007/12/01/hmn_feature19.html) and was tuned by experts (XS Engineering)...a car that will turn heads and generate conversations everywhere you go...as well as wipe the smile off the face of a Corvette or Evo owner who doesn't show the proper respect. Or better still, will leave YOU with a perma-grin every time you sit in the driver's seat. This Z could be used as a commuter (it has been a weekend/perfect day car for me), as easily as it could be taken to the track as-is for the driving experience of a lifetime. This is NOT some cobbled together aftermarket-special by someone with more money than taste and common sense. Every move has been methodical with utmost respect to the vehicle's heritage, reliability, performance, driver's enjoyment and forward-looking to its potential future uses and possible ultimate expressions of one of the greatest cars ever made. SUMMARY - 1972 Datsun 240Z (HLS30-88353) - 1993 SR20DET w/ 5-speed transmission - Output: ~232 WHP and ~211 lb/ft torque @ 14 psi - Estimated weight: 2100 lbs. - Roughly 70,000 miles on the drivetrain (refreshed 25k miles ago), exact mileage on chassis unknown (estimated by research at 185,000 miles) - 4th Owner - have put 25,000 miles on it over 7.5 years (less than 3500 miles/year) - many new & upgraded parts during my ownership - Have All Maintenance Records, Receipts & Instruction Manuals - The car has spent its entire life in California & Arizona (1 year) - Clean Title in Hand - Smog Exempt - Current CA Registration (expires in January) PRICE: $14,000 MOTOR & DRIVETRAIN - 1993 Nissan SR20DET ('redtop') - 2.0L, 4-cylinder, DOHC, 16-valve, turbo (redline set at 7800 RPM) - Swap performed by Vildini Motorsport ("SR240Z" is a member of this forum) in 2003 - Motor has approx. 70,000 miles - 'refreshed' 25k miles ago at time of swap (seals, bearings, gaskets) - Motor mounted behind front axle for a proper "Front Mid-Engine" layout, resulting in improved weight distribution & handling - Tuned & Dyno tested at XS Engineering: ~232 whp and ~211 lb/ft torque @ 14 psi - Custom Motor Mounts (Vildini) - Firewall mildly reshaped for optimal motor positioning - 5-speed manual transmission (S13 ) - Apex'i Power FC Engine Management - Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers (protective measure for reliable high-revving) - Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel - ACT S/S Clutch - NEW Clutch Master Cylinder - Custom Driveshaft (Vildini) - PowerBrute Limited-Slip Differential (3.9 Final) - Howe Aluminum Radiator - Intercooler & powdercoated piping - Electric Fan with manual override - Custom Cold-Air Intake - Z32 MAF Sensor (S13 MAF sensor spliced in if ever want to revert to stock) - Garrett T-25 Turbocharger - Greddy Type-S Blow-off Valve - Greddy Intake Manifold - Megan Racing Exhaust Manifold - Custom Turbo Elbow - SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator - Walbro Electric Fuel Pump - Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge - Power Enterprise 550cc Fuel Injectors - Custom Fuel Surge Tank (Vildini) - NEW Gas Tank (OEM) - Custom Oil Catch Can - NISMO Thermostat - Blitz Boost Controller - Blitz Turbo Timer - Custom Turbo-Back 3" Exhaust & Muffler (straight pipe - no Cats - Smog Exempt) SUSPENSION, CHASSIS & BRAKES - Tokico Springs front & rear (1" lower than stock) - Tokico shocks (non-adjustable) - Autopower 4-pt. Rollbar - Cusco Front Strut Tower Brace - Arizona Z-Car Differential Mount/Brace - 300zx (Z31) rotors & 280ZX Turbo Calipers (front) - OEM Brake Drums in rear w/ Carbon-Metallic Brake Shoes - NEW Brake Master Cylinder EXTERIOR & WHEELS - MSA Type-II Front Air Dam - BRE-style Rear Spoiler (carbon fiber) - Shaved Antenna - Konig Rewind Wheels (15x7 - graphite w/ polished lip) - classic Panasport/Watanabe look - NEW Wheel Bearings (all around) - Sumitomo HRZ Tires (205/50/15) - 60% tread left - "Euro"-style chrome bumpers (no 'overriders' or rubber inserts) - Painted 'aero' side mirrors - Sparco Hood Pins - Tinted windows (light tint on side windows, shade darker in rear quarter windows) - Pop-up sunroof - Car was repainted in original White in 2007 INTERIOR - Radio & HVAC deleted for weight savings - Sound-deadening, insulation & carpet removed for weight savings (carpet retained on passenger floor for female passengers) - Apex'i Power FC Commander (customized engine monitoring & live tuning) - Custom center console with Boost Controller & Turbo Timer - LeCarra Steering Wheel (leather) - Autometer Boost Gauge - Autometer Tachometer - Nismo Shift Knob - Razo 'Broadway' Rear-view Mirror - NEW Rear Hatch Seal - OEM 240Z seats - OEM Fuel/Temperature Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge & Clock KNOWN ISSUES - There is a very small patch of rust at the bottom-left of the rear hatch window/seal and some very minor spots of bubbling beneath the doors, towards the front wheels. This is a fairly common occurrence on early Z's and I have done my best to mitigate its progression. Ultimately I wished to replace the hatch with a carbon fiber unit, but never got there. There is NO rust to the frame or any other structural part of the car. - The speedometer doesn't accurately read below 30 MPH. Above 30 MPH, it works fine. I never needed to look at the speedo below that speed and so never invested the money to get it fixed. It is a wire speedo and a relatively simple fix, should you care to do so. - The dash has cracks. There are many sources for replacement dashes (or dash covers) and I can point you in the right direction if that matters to you. I left it as-is to remind myself that it is a 41-year old car with a heritage worthy of respect and admiration...kinda like that awesome scar you tell stories about. - 1 or 2 very minor door dings on the driver-side that you can only see if you squint with one-eye from a certain angle. I am the type of guy who obsessively notices such things, so I'd prefer to be upfront about it. Couldn't get them to show up in pictures. - There is minor vibration/noise in very narrow RPM ranges (dependent on gear, temp and other factors) as the exhaust grazes the firewall when the engine rocks slightly under heavy load. This is a result of mounting the engine as far back as possible for optimal weight distribution. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all, but sometimes it does. - There is a scratch in the tint in the passenger side window. DISCLOSURE OF ACCIDENT HISTORY: - The only known incident with this car was some rear-end body damage in 2006 in a minor collision (thus the paint job), at which time the frame was verified as 100% straight and bodywork professionally restored by Pierre' Z. Pictures show the current condition. To reaffirm, the Title is clean. I am more than happy to answer any questions you might have and to supply additional pictures and documentation as needed. You will not be disappointed with this car and I have described it as accurately as possible to the best of my knowledge. I only ask that you respect my time and yours by noting that I will not entertain lowball offers, do not have interest in trades at this time, nor will I give test drives to those with no serious intentions to buy. Thank you for your interest in this amazing Z. PRICE: $14,000
  12. Hi guys im so excited to make my first post. My dad, brother and I have just bought a '78 280z for $2000. There's no engine in it but its got mounts for an sr20det we plan to install. Everything else looks pretty good. Already got tokico springs and a nice body. We're thinking about ordering a JDM engine but were open to any suggestions on getting an engine. Im located in San Jose. Any recommendations for a good shop around here we could buy parts or that could help us out? Thanks guys, i'll keep updating this with our progress and pics. Gonna be a fun summer!
  13. This was one Hell of a sweet swap after lots of dead ends that were surpassed to get to the finish line. There have been several other people that have done this swap in silvias and 240sx's and so on but nobody I could find had done one in the s30 chasis so this one had to be a shot the dark in hopes all that it would be able to work. With a brand new tranny straight from Nissan I pulled it out of the box and started taking it apart and cutting into it. Pretty scary but I was determined to make it work. Started with an adapter plate which had to be modified as soon as I got it. The exhaust ran right up next to the motor and bellhousing so I had to slice off a good portion of the adapter plate and bellhousing. This worried me but I was able to strenthen the setup later. I then noticed that the holes for my starter were once used all the way from the backside of the bellhousing and feed through into the starter threads. That wasn't going to work with the adapter plate, meaning if the started went out id have to remove the tranny to access my bolts on the other side. I then drilled out the starter threads and made two bolts to length that feed from the starter side into the adapter plate. Then I welded to nuts in place onto the plate so that they didn't splin when I was installig the starter later. My main concern was the adapter plate causing the input shaft to not reach the pilot bearing so I knew when I shaved off the bell housing I wanted to save my slice and reuse it on the back side of the bell flange when I was ready to bolt up the tranny. A little time and care and I had a perfect slice and I modified the bellhousing a little to allow my slice to be attached to the back side and give me my bellhousing flange thickness back (only losing the 1/16" thickness of the cutting blade). Next was fitting the extremely large casing into this transmission tunnel from the 70's. After cutting out the factory crossmember mounts and re enforcement behind them and beating the tunnel in several areas I had it almost in. The ashtray molding was the next opstical in my way so I grinded out a portion of the front untill the tail end of the tranny raised up right to the center console. I had to move fuel and brake lines to allow clearance as well. Had to shorten the shifter tail and linkage aslo, that was ordered right along with the extended throw out bearing, once that's done the shifter location is at its furthest point towards the center console as it can go comfortably. Any further back and I wouldnt be happy with it at all. Once the tranny was lined up I used a 350z stock transmission mount to bolt through the floor boards with steel backing plates inside the car for extra strength and support. This lined the tranny up perfect with the rear end. Then it was drive shaft time. I simply measured the distance and ordered my length. I believe its 27" give or take a quarter inch. After the mach up I pulled every thing out and moved on to the clutch. I had to move the line for the slave to the driver side. Once that was done I ordered a slave which barely fit with the what I removed from the tranny already. Next was the starter, which if over struck the flywheel would hit the bellhousing flange, so i turned the grinder back on and removed the metal around the area needed. The clutch fork doesn't even reach the pressure plate fingers at all when assembled so a fabricated throw out bearing has to be used, once on there's a huge difference and slides like a charm. As far as electrical I learned that the passenger side pigtail is for a neutral saftey plug and the drivers side plug is for reverse lights. I bypassed the trouble of a speedo signal setup by just installing a Gps adapter for autometer guages, sometimes loses a signal with bad weather buy quickly picks it back up and gives an extremely accurate reading. So, after all the blockades in my way I managed to get the silly thing done. Shifts super smooth and very strong. No question here this transmission can handle the horse power its being given. The only thing I regret is not installing a twin disk clutch setup and the entire built would have been indestructible. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the act six puck that's installed, it does its job just fine. Now came the exhaust. The three inch tubing is the lowest point on the car and with it right next to the tranny and crossmember, I had to remove an oval portion for the pipe to fit. Had to weld in a new custom bent section to line it all up and even beat in part of the tubing to give the transmission clearance in one spot as well. Once that was done the vq35de tranny was finally in its new home. I hope this thread helps anyone trying to do something similar to there setup. Sometimes you gotta just go for it in hopes that it will work and in this case I lucked out and got it done.
  14. sr20s30

    My 73 in import tuner

    Hey hybridz, I'd love to invite everybody to check out my sr20 powered z in the current issue of import tuner. This car has been a very personal issue for me and I have often considered getting rid of it. I'm now glad I stuck it out. Please let me know what you guys think.
  15. So I have my 260z and I 3 engines and transmissions for it (stock/original engine and tranny, a second L26 and tranny, and a "drift modified" sr20 and tranny). I have the stock engine being overhauled and rebuilt right now while I have the second L26 under the hood right now and driving on it, but I am wondering if it is worth my time, effort or money to have it built back up to ever swap out my stock engine with or if I should just sell it off. The sr20 was built up by a mechanic that had it in his drift car before he wrecked it. But I don't know if I want to take the time to switch it out with the stock/matching numbers engine that I will be putting back into my 260z in Feb. and I was looking for anyones advice or input
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