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Found 63 results

  1. ISPKI

    280z 302 sbf swap

    Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  2. Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale down in San Diego. I made the 4 hour round trip the next day and bought the Jig with the sole purpose of making the cross members for the community. I am one guy with a Jig and the resources to REPRODUCE these cross members Just as John designed! These will be MADE TO ORDER and will be low production numbers to insure a QUALITY product. So Just as I came across John you have now come across me. They will come as raw metal for ease of welding with the original instructions. YES these can be bolted in by drilling holes through the rails and cross member. Price $350 a unit plus shipping to your door step. Happy building! These are made for OEM 2jzgte engine mounts. People have used These for 1jzgte,vvti,GE swaps but may of had to swap out mounts. The 4bolt pattern is the same however the mount brackets vary. Message me for orders. Instagram----- Mike321go Facebook----- Mike Garcia
  3. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Alrighty, so after doing some reading, LOTS of reading, I have decided I am developing an end all, be all ultimate super 8.8 swap. The key features of THIS setup are as follows. -bolt on 2015 mustang hub assembly. No more $$$$ stub axles prone to breaking. -bolt on 2007 subaru coilover strut, buy cheap or buy ultra nice, entirely up to you. -bolt on s30 rear lower control arms... again use stock, or nice pieces like Arizona Z car etc, your choice. -will have stock 2015 mustang brake mounting points. We're talking disc brakes with built in parking brake in the caliper, and take off brakes for less than $200. There is a plethora of brake available for these cars, including Baer brakes drag setup that lets you use 15 inch wheels for sticky slicks on drag nights. -3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 or 4.09 gears And limited slip torsen differentials for $262 to $700 dollars for complete low mileage units. Super 8.8 much stronger than the 8.8 of yesteryear. -800 hp 930 cv axles COMPLETE for $1,299 for the pair. 34 spline into the diff and 32 at the hub. No more stub axles, companion flanges, or custom diff axle stubs or adapter needed. This price was quoted to me today from the "Driveshaft shop". I contacted them about custom length 2015 mustang axles and that's the price they gave me. -rebuildable cv joints, you only have to buy the custom axles once, and rebuild them as needed for much much cheaper. This setup could easily be adapted to use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 but that would require asking the driveshaftshop to make you custom 31 spline axle stubs instead of the 34 spline ones they include in the $1299 price. This is something I am building for myself. But if anyone wants some I will gladly make extras. I'm just blown away at the prices of things for our Z cars, and decided to bring something to market that would potentially benefit the guys who want something more than oddball custom for stupid money. Aside from the custom length 930 cv axles EVERYTHING is off the shelf cheap and strong parts. Cheap brakes, cheap bearing hubs, cheap differentials, cheap limited slip. And so on. Also, I am designing a front disc brake setup as well. The idea is to use all 4 disc brakes off a 2015 mustang for balanced and affordable braking. It'll require a 17 or 18 inch wheel, but the guys running 800hp turbo is engines or 2jz swaps are usually already there anyway... If you have any better suggestions for a strut I'm open to ideas.
  4. I recently acquired a late model FS5W71B 5-speed that supposedly came out of a 280ZX. It definitely has the right bellhousing bolt pattern, the single ear exhaust hanger, the reverse check plate, and the tall ears for the shifter. I've put it in 5th and counted input shaft to output shaft ratios, and confirmed it's the .745:1 5th gear. Based on the research I've done on this site and others it sounds like it should bolt in just fine, but I need to make sure I use the pressure plate and throw-out bearing out of either one or the other and not "mix and match". I have a completely new clutch/PP/TOB (Exedy) that I had bought for my 4 speed, and am guessing that it should be OK in the 5 speed? Can anyone confirm this? Also, the breather has broken off flush with the case. Any advice on removing the stub? The 5-speed came with a slave cylinder, should I use that one or my 4-speed's, or is there no difference? Looking at this web link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I do have the weird oblong shifter (bottom picture, right side) from the 5 speed. Does anyone have any idea what that internal spring is supposed to do in relation to the bushings? Is it one of those push-down to engage reverse features? Finally, this transmission only has one electronic sensor installed, up near the front (Reverse switch I believe), and nothing else. There looks like maybe something should be in the rear, and possibly got broken off. I need to do more cleanup in that area to be sure. I downloaded a copy of the '83 FSM from Xenon and the MT chapter shows 4 sensors! (Reverse switch, Top Gear Switch, O.D. Gear Switch, and Neutral switch.) In all the pictures of these transmissions I have found on line I have never seen 4 switches installed on the side of these transmissions. Does anyone know what the deal is on what reality appears to be VS what the FSM is calling out? In my picture the 5-speed is on the left, the 4-speed is on the right, The shifter with all the tape around it is the oblong one out of the 5-speed. The boss that is up from the tailshaft on the right of the center casting part line (red arrow pointing to it) is full of crud and I suspect where the neutral switch should be installed. Is there ANYTHING that anyone can advise me on in regards to making this swap successful? Pitfalls? "Gotchyas"? "As long as you are doing this you may want to..."? Thanks!
  5. Pharaohabq

    VQ Engine Swap Information

    So I've been asked a lot of times about the different VQ engines, and swapping into an S30. While I'm not exactly an expert on them, I am swapping a VQ35HR into my S30. Most of the questions I get are about what is required to make a VQ run. I've read a lot about it, and I've seen what other people have done to make one work. Props always have to go out to 240Hoke (Austin) and EMWHYR0HEN (Myron) for pioneering this swap into an S30. I highly recommend you read their pages and threads. Doing a swap is a big deal; it's not just a single weekend bolt on change. Usually it requires a little welding, or a lot of $ to have someone else do it. You can about guarantee that you'll blow your budget, so when you're planning a swap. Expect to spend at least $3K-$5K more than you're thinking. A VQ35DE (287HP) is very tempting, stock it’s over 100 HP more powerful than the stock L28E (170HP). Before you buy: There are a lot of places to buy an engine. But before you look, there’s a lot more to a swap than just the engine. There’s all the accessories that often don’t come with the engine (people make more $ selling them separately). Then there are the Wiring harnesses, The Computers, the Fuel management, and the Integration to your car. These are things that are costly in addition to the expense of buying the engine. You should have a plan in place before you start. Expect your car to be out of service for quite some time. Try not to get bit by the “While I’m at it†bug. Do one project at a time, one phase at a time. Planning is probably the most important part of your swap. Read Read Read; make sure you’re familiar and comfortable with all the systems, and steps for swapping an engine. Which Engine? Most people are going for the older VQ35DE, as it’s the most widely available, thus cheaper, engine. Nissan put them in the Altimas, Pathfinders, Quests, Maximas, Muranos, Xterras, and Infinity G35's / FX35's / M35's among others - depending, of course, on the model. Eg. SE, SL etc. Now keep in mind there are variances between these models. Some have different intakes, some have different heads and different transmissions. I’m not going to detail that, since we’re only interested in the RWD versions. You can get a VQ35 from a FWD or AWD car and bolt a RWD Tranny to it, but you may need to change some additional parts out which could cost more, but the initial cost may be cheaper. Buying a 350Z VQ35 may be a lot more expensive than buying an old Altima VQ35 (power limited) or G35 VQ engine based solely on the fact that it came from a 350Z, so consider that. The VQ35HR: Nissan only made the VQ35HR for 2 years in the 350Z, 07-08, so it's a lot harder to find parts. But that being said, it's an excellent engine (306HP compared to the 287HP of the DE). The plenum is side ported so it fits better in the car. The block is taller, but the plenum is shorter so height-wise it still fits in a S30. The Tranny is better internally, but it still uses the same concentric clutch which really isn't that big a deal. Replacement clutches are a lot cheaper now than they were 2 years ago. The HR does require additional Trimming on the S30 Cross member, because the Oil Filter is in the front on the right. Aside from that it's all about the same installation wise. If you’re going to go HR, You might as well go VQ37HR, they're more common (made for more years), 40hp more (~330HP), and fit almost exactly the same since they're the same block as the VQ35HR. You can get a VQ37 out of almost any G37 or 370Z. They're still not as widely available as the VQ35DE is, but the VQ37HR is an awesome engine. Really if you had the $$$$ and could find one, the VR38DETT would be the ultimate, but that's a rare animal, (and way too much $$$$$) But I digress, so with the VQ35HR (and the VQ37HR) like the DE, you still need the ECU/ BCU, NATS, IPDM and Key. It's still drive by wire so you need a gas pedal from the same year car either 350z or G35. The HR uses a 3rd plug on the ECU, so there's a 3rd harness you'll need. The Engine harness, the Engine Bay Harness and the Dash harness (body#1) If you can get these all from the same car, you'd be way ahead. The Dash harness usually comes with the fuse box. The engine bay harness includes the IPDM or at least the plugs for it. The IPDM is a computerized "smart" power management box, but really it's just the relays for things like the headlights and such. If you want to use the gauges, you'll also need the AC Amp. It really is better to buy a whole wrecked donor car, so you can just move the whole systems over directly and not worry about getting the wrong harness. Harness Mods: I know there are companies like Zfever, that can do harness mods to eliminate the extra harnesses and the BCU/NATS security. For many these work out fine, but I really have no experience with them. So look at their site and decide for yourself if you want to go that direction. Myself, I am planning on moving multiple 350Z systems into my S30, so I’m sticking with the stock 350Z harnesses. I would love to get the 350Z Cruise control working. As I understand it, Cruise only requires the ECU/BCU and the speed sensors on the Differential. Going with Stock also means you shouldn’t have to do any tuning / dyno work unless you want to. Gas Pedal: Any VQ gas pedal should work, but one from the same year car G35 or 350z should work best. I only know of one change in the gas pedal, between 04 and 05 they changed the module that senses the pedal, but the plugs are the same so I assume it'll still work. It's best to stick with the same year as the engine - just to be sure it’ll work. Procuring an engine: You might look first at the junkyards, and then if nothing is available there, put an ad up on craigslist or whatever you prefer, and see if someone privately has a car. You may be able to buy a 07 SE or SL Altima or earlier Maxima, pretty cheap with the DE engine. (Though you'd have to find a RWD tranny) Quest minivans are also cheap. (Note that some of these are ECU limited in HP) But look around and see what's available locally. Then if you can't find one, the next is so search JDM engine sources. (Japan has a 35K miles law that basically it's too expensive to drive something with more than 35K miles, tax-wise, so there's tons of good JDM engines being shipped out) Another place to look is into insurance auctions, a lot of times you can buy a wrecked complete car for $2K-$3K though most require that you bring a dealer along. Donors: It’s best to buy a Whole Donor, so not only do you know that all the parts once worked together, it’ll be a lot easier and cheaper to have all the little modules and parts (engine accessories like Alt, PS Pump, AC pump etc) for your swap there on hand, and much cheaper than tracking them all down separately. Your neighbors may not like it, so plan on at least a car cover. Once your swap is complete, you can part the rest or sell it for scrap. A note on this: If you don’t buy a Donor, you can still get a lot of the same parts cheaper from lesser VQ equipped cars, than the higher dollar 350Z/G35 cars. Eg. The MAF’s are all the same part number across most Nissan models since 2003. Eg. It's $60 for a Quest MAF, and $98 for a 350Z MAF, same part #. That being said, I still bought a lot of my parts cheap on Ebay, and from Turbo-Toys, who dismantles mostly VQ cars. Mounting: Well McKinney Motorsports makes a Mount kit which is pretty good. But it’s very expensive. “Why the expense?†is a different conversation. But you can make your own from plans you can find on the internet. Or, you and make your own custom mounts as someone here on Hybridz did. One part that will be common to all VQ swaps in the S30, is the “Modding the Steering cross member.†You’ll need to cut away half or more of the cross member and bolster the front side to retain the stiffness for your suspension and Steering mounting. For the HR, you’ll also have to make a cut out for the oil filter. You’ll also need to cut out the S30 Stock Tranny mounts in the tunnel, and make/buy a new Tranny mount. You may also need to mod the shifter hole to fit. You will also need to build/buy a Shift linkage bracket (Ahoke’s is really nice!) to shorten the distance from the shifter to the Tranny. (This is one argument to switch to the Auto Tranny version as the Auto is shorter and Drive by wire – Though the width I’m uncertain about.) You will also need to route the S30 steering shaft around the exhaust. Usually this is done by adding another U-joint and extension, (Mine came from the donor 350Z steering) and building a bearing mount on the left fender wall. There’s a lot more to this, but this is basically what’s required. AC and Power Steering: Air Conditioning. Well the Stock VQ location for the AC pump won’t work due to the Steering shaft. So either you’ll have to do without, Build a different bracket, or go with electric AC. The S30 AC system can be made to work, but would require complete disassembly and cleanout, then reassembly and recharge using modern refrigerant from the 350Z. (I was looking at replacing the 350Z PS pump with the 350z AC pump and making different bracket. Again that is a different project). Power steering, yes it’s possible, but it’ requires integrating it with the “Adding Power Steering†topics here on Hybridz. It’s probably cheaper to go with that electric PS system. Exhaust: You’ll need to make/buy a custom exhaust as the stock headers point right at the S30 firewall when mounted. Turbo/Twin Turbo: kits are available, but run in the $4K-$6K range. GTM is a good company. Of course there would be further costs and mods required to put them an S30. I recommend that you get it working in stock form first. Transmission: The 350Z’s come with either an Auto or a 6 sp manual. Really either one is great, the Auto has a lot of features like manual shift or automatic. The VQ37 also has synchro rev-match (2010+) available, which is pretty fun, where the ECU detects you're shifting and matches the engine speed to your shift, so technically you can shift without the clutch. Watch out though, if you get the engine from a G37x the x is AWD, and the Tranny won't work in an S30 unless you go AWD with it too, which is really expensive. I think the Auto Tranny may have a control unit, but I haven't looked into that much since I’m going Manual. I know the engine harness is different for the Auto. You can use an Engine / harness from an Auto with a manual, but not vice versa. The auto tranny reverse lockout switch would need to be bypassed. You’d have to source a flywheel/clutch, remove the flex plate and buy a new pinion bearing / Flywheel bolts. The early 03 / 04 350z manual trannies had some synchro issues, so look out for those. All VQ35DE Manual RWD trannies are interchangeable from 03 through 06. The 07-08 years used a JK Tranny with a different bolt pattern, I haven’t verified that the 09 + VQ37 Tranny will work with a 07 or 08 HR engine, but it should because they both use the same block. It's best to use the 350Z Clutch master since it's matched to the concentric slave. Differentials: You can use the Stock S30 R200, and should be fine, though the 3.54 gearing may be a little tall for you. 3.7 or 3.9:1 might make you a little happier. The 350z uses a Short nosed R200, with the timing wheels on the stubs. The timing wheels can be used to tell the ECU to display how fast you’re going using the AC amp and the stock 350Z electronics. You’d have to use a Ron Tyler (RT) type mount to install a short nosed R200. This is the same for installing a short nosed R230 from a Z32. Both have the timing wheels. Your Stock S30 Speedo won’t work with a Z33/Z34 Tranny. A LSD is available in both the Z33/Z34 and the Z32 Diff’s. The Subi LSD R180 should still work with the VQ’s power, but your stub axles are the weak point. Fuel: Most swaps I've seen actually go through the work to upgrade the S30 fuel lines. I'm not certain that's required since the 350Z fuel lines appear to be the same size. The VQ needs to be run either on a "dead head" configuration or on a return configuration. Either way, you'll need a good quality Fuel pressure regulator, and a stronger Fuel pump. I've seen people swap in the Stock 350Z pumps, and I've seen people use walbrough 255 LPH pumps. Both are workable. You'll need to research the different setups and decide what will work for you. My plan is to use a quart sized pressure container in the engine compartment with the input and the output to the engine on the bottom then a FPR and a return to the tank on the top. That way any bubbles float up through the FPR and my engine has constant pressure from before the FPR. Likely I'll use the S30 tank and an external walbrough. The 08+ cars are nice too, in that most use the key fob deal that with Bluetooth, allows for push button operation, so you wouldn't have to even take your keys out of your pocket. But that's another story. Now I realize this is really not much more than a primer, but it answers most of the questions I am regularly asked. I welcome constructive comments. Good luck on your projects. I would highly recommend for you to download the FSM's for the VQ35DE, VQ35HR, and the VQ37HR cars so you can see exactly what these components do, and what each system consists of. Being familiar with that will make sure you pull all the parts you want the FIRST TIME. Here are the FSM links: http://www.xenonz33.com/reference.html http://www.xenonz34.com/reference.html PharaohABQ.
  6. I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
  7. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  8. I finished my l28et swap and she runs beautifully! The only thing I don't have is the tachometer wired up. Anyone know where the tachometer wire is located? Preferably someone that has done it already. Here's some picture if it helps at all.
  9. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  10. Having pulled my spindle pins three times in the past few years and somehow managing to save them. On my last attempt I finials messed up the threads to the point were replacement was going to be a must. Having done some digging around I decided to go the 5/8 bolt route There are many people who say do not do this but if you look at the techno tuning toys rear lower control arms. Granted they are using a hime joint they use a 5/8 bolt. On these grounds I set off to find the right bolt for the job and this is what I came up with. From Fastenal a 5/8-11 x11 yz8 haven taken many measurements and driving the people at Fastenal crazy we decided that this was the best bolt for the job at hand. I hope this helps for anyone considering doing this swap and any info on pros or cons would be appreciated. And here are a few photos of the bolt I will be using. And they cost only $12.90 each . Fastenal part #15335
  11. Johnbian

    Ecoboost swap

    This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  12. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that seems to have fixed the problem. I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  13. Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.
  14. When i realized my 240z project was too rusty under all the bondo to bother i was bummed out. When my 300zx motor started to sound like a washing machine full of rocks i was ready to give up on life. When my boss told me i needed to get my junk cars out of the shop, I completely lost my mind and offered him $2000 for "everything i need to make it move" out of the various salt water flooded mustangs in the shop. We restored flooded cars and shipped them over seas btw. Note the giant pile of wires!
  15. 280KA

    KA Mounting Question

    Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
  16. Hello all, I'm pondering doing a gearbox upgrade as I have everything out of the car for my restomod and my 5-speed gearbox is "missing" 5th gear. The car is a 73 240z Europe edition and I believe I have the FS5C71B gearbox mounted in the car. Searching around I found recommendations of the FS5W71C swap from the 180SX, 200SX, and 240SX. I can find plenty of rather low mileage FS5W71C gearboxes for sale so that is not a problem. I read the following guide http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm and it is highlighted that you need the FS5W71B bell housing. Question is -> Has anyone had any experience using the FS5C71B bell housing for this swap rather than the FS5W71B? Cheers, Erik
  17. Pac_Man

    L28ET Swap

    Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  18. So I came across a hell of a deal on an s13 rear sub frame and ended up picking it up for $10 ! I've seen a few threads on this topic so don't think I haven't done my research it's just that they were all older threads and I didn't feel like resurrecting it from its hibernation. Now a few of my buddies told me that it should bolt in with little to no modification/fabricating. I know also then you could run more recent brakes (Z32 all day baby) and also have an easier platform to a 5 lug swap and better differentials. Some insight on if this will work and if it will the steps it would take. Thanks guys! - Grayson
  19. After 25 years of loyal service my SBC 350 is coming out, and replacing it will be a beautiful 5.3LS out of a 04 Yukon with 95K on the clock. The plans are simple for this build cam,and intake springs and rockers if needed other than that just the stuff it will take to fit and get running right. Have not made a choice on a trans yet would love a 6 speed but the T56 is out of my price range for now but who know buy the thing I get it done. I will keep you guy updated with my progress even though it will be at a snails pace. I am so pumped. Old Sbc new 5.3
  20. Its time for some changes in my Z due to a knock in the bottom end. I have made the decisions to go the LS route with a manual trans. and i am doing research and getting all my ducks in a row start spending money. I have see sights were people are putting a 350Z/370Z CD009 trans behind there LS. I did some digging and found that a adapter plat is made by Collins performance technologies . The 350z has a great shifting trans and is much cheaper then a T56 and can take abuse, but I have never seen this combo in a S30 if you have even seen this please let me know of if you can think of any pluses or minuses to this idea chime in please! Thanks Will S. cd009 with adapter CD009 CD009 CD009 T56
  21. CumminZ

    Cummins 6.7 swap

    I've had this idea since I was a little kid to put a 6.7 liter Cummins in a 240 and or 260 I just want to know if anybody thinks it can be done I wanna try to keep it fairly stock looking so no 2 feet front end extension's besides being heavy in the front end really heavy could it be done?
  22. crazyoctopus

    I hate my 4.44 clutch type

    Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.
  23. wfritts911

    S30 Ultimate 8.8 IRS Swap Kit!

    First off, if you haven't seen my thread over in the drivetrain section, it covers a lot of technical information on the swap and reviews of the previous 6 kits I've sold. If you feel like reading through 16 pages then the link is below. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117668-the-ultimate-irs-swap-for-s30s/ Now onto the info for those of you who haven't seen my setup. What this kit allows you to do:Mount an 8.8 IRS differential from an 2002-2005 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. This is practically the same differential used in the 03/04 cobras, just cheaper and has a stronger rear cover from the factory. Use a custom differential stub axles along with off the shelf components to convert to Porsche 930 CV joints and 930 axles. A F150 front axle outer CV joint is used for the outboard CV joint. The F150 CV uses the same splines as the 930 stuff and has a 33 spline axle which goes into a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid Front Hub. The Intrepid hub has the 5x4.5" bolt pattern(Mustangs, newer Nissan's, etc). If you are looking to stay 4 lug that is an option as well. However, I am not currently planning on drilling the hubs for 4 lug, so your favorite local machine shop will need to be sourced. So from the inside to outside you have: 8.8 Differential->Custom Stub Axle->Porsche 930 CV Joint->Porsche 930 Axle->F150 Front Outer CV Joint->Dodge Intrepid Hub->Wheel. Use my custom suspension upright to mount the Intrepid Hub Assembly along with Coil-overs and Koni struts(Or other options are in the works). For brakes you have the option of either Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 2 piece 12.2" rotors, or running cobra brakes that are a popular swap for the stock rear setup Why it is the best IRS setup for S30s out there:The only custom part that is breakable is the custom differential stub axle. I make and weld on a flange to the stock Explorer Inner CV housing. In the event this becomes the weak point(Which I don't see happening). Driveshaft shop sells custom billet chromoly ones for $500 a pair. In the even the CV Joints become the weak link you can upgrade to 300M CV Joints, 300M axles, replace the F150 CV Joint with a Porsche 930 Micro stub and another 930 CV Joint(The F150 setup is cheaper). The 8.8 IRS differential has every gear ratio you could ever want for about 150 per gear set. You can get bearings/parts at your local parts store. It's an all aluminum housing so its relatively light. You can actually buy differentials for the thing(Unlike the Nissan diffs). Large wilwood brakes, koni struts, coil-overs. Budget friendly, uses lots of off the shelf parts to lower cost. What I actually provide:Front differential mount. This bolts in where the RT(Ron Tyler) style diff mount bolts in. If you have a high HP car I would recommend welding this in because the bolts/nuts have been known to come loose with a mount styled like this. The mount is up and out of the way of everything and does not impair getting the differential out if it was welded in. Rear Differential Mount/Mustache Bar. I make an aluminum(6061-T6) mustache bar that bolts to the factory studs and mounts the rear of the 8.8 diff. It uses polyurethane bushings in the same location as the stock mustache bar. Rear LCA drop down/dogbone. The rear differential mounts go through the stock LCA drop down brackets so I make a new steel one which replaces the old drop downs and bolts right to the piece which holds the bushing. 8.8 Differential Stub Axle. You send me a pair of rear explorer CV axles($100/pair on ebay). I make 930 CV flanges and weld them to the explorer stub axles. This allows you to bolt up a Porsche 930 CV joint. Suspension Upright/Strut Tube. I provide a custom upright that holds the Intrepid Hub, Wilwood(Or cobra) brakes, Koni struts(Or other options), Coil-overs from A1racing(Or any coil-over kit which fits the stock strut tubes). It uses a bolt on strut tube that has built in camber adjustment. You can use the stock strut top hat if you don't want to go to camber plates. For those running Wilwood brakes the rotor hat needs in inner bore enlarged a bit to fit over the Intrepid Hub. I can do this for $20/pair of hats. You ship the hats to me and I'll send them with the rest of your kit. Every bolt you will need to bolt it all up. Everything powder coated black, unless you really want a different color, then we can probably work something out. If you don't want anything powder coated it will save you roughly $100. Cobra brake caliper brackets are going to cost a bit extra, not sure exactly how much at this time, but probably around $40 extra. What I don't provideAnything you can buy off the shelf. I'm not into the parts selling business, I can't compete with large retailers like Summitracing.com, Jegs, Rockauto.com, etc. I provide a detailed list of everything you need which includes part numbers, links to the cheapest place I could find to buy it, prices, quantities, etc. You just go through the list and order everything and it gets shipped straight to you. This makes it cheaper for you and less of an investment on my part to order lots of parts up front. I currently do not assemble the CV axles for you. This is probably the hardest part of the whole install. The F150 CV Axle you buy from "insert auto parts store here" must be taken apart to get the outer CV joint. The shaft must actually be cut off close to the outer CV joint in order to disassemble the joint to remove the F150 shaft. It is really not that difficult its just messy(CV Grease) and a little time consuming. The 8.8 differential. You can pick these up on ebay, from junk yards, from that 02+ explorer in the walmart parking lot, etc etc. If you get it from a junk yard and can get the CV axles with it for cheap, then you are in good shape. The condition of the explorer CV axles does not matter, all I need is the inner spline portion. The 600HP+ supercharged LSx motor that Texis300 has putting power through this setup(With a clutch between the two). However, if you provide me with his motor, I will give you a kit for free. How much it will hurt your pocket book:The custom parts that I listed off above are going to cost $1350. This includes everything I listed out above. I have attached a parts list below detailing what the total setup should cost for everything but a driveshaft. My parts are listed on there too, broken down by piece, but those prices will probably only hold as a full kit. If you want individual pieces instead of the full thing, the cost will probably go up slightly. My price does not include shipping. As long as everything goes smoothly, you will pay exactly what I pay for shipping plus a small fee for packing. It cost around $70 to ship everything last time and around $10 for packaging. On the spreadsheet currently it says it will cost $3365 for everything. Keep in mind guys this is the differential, CV Axles, Wilwood brakes, Koni Struts, Coil-overs, etc. This gets you a completely new rear end with very nice, strong parts. I haven't done the numbers yet but the cobra brakes will reduce the price by several hundred I believe. I placed an order with a local laser shop to cut everything needed for 10 full sets(With the option for 5 to use cobra brakes). They have a 3 week lead time, but the order is placed and the ball is rolling(extremely overdue). I know I had a lot of people PM'ing me who were interested after I finish the first 5 sets up. I would like to keep this thread on the more purchasing/product info side of things and use the current thread in the drivetrain forum for technical questions, etc. Feel free to ask questions on here, on the other thread, or shoot me a PM. As many others have found out, I'm a senior Mechanical Engineering student, I work full time now, so I get quite busy at times but I try to keep up best I can. This is a side business for me(for now) so sometimes my day job/school gets put first unfortunately. I have attached pictures below, rather than make this post extremely long I will just leave them in the attached section. I have also uploaded the parts list as a PDF. -Will S30 8.8 Swap Parts List.pdf
  24. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  25. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
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