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Showing results for tags 'tps'.
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While implementing Megasquirt I wanted to keep the engine bay as stock as possible, but wanted to use a TPS instead of the AFM. I bought a new 240SX TPS (throttle position sensor), which looks almost identical to the original TPS (throttle position switch) but has different mounting spacing. To overcome this problem I designed a simple mounting adapter, which I'd happy to sell if anyone else is interested. The mounting spacing for the TB is 70 mm, the mounting holes for the TPS are M4 and pre-tapped! I can confirm that the Beck/Arnley 158-0507 is mounted perfectly using this bracket. Since expected quantities are quite low, I can't purchase with bulk discount and the final price will be €19.99 each. However, I will be shipping them anywere for only €3.99 (US/Canada as well)! You can get more info at http://borsjewebdevelopment.nl/z/ (note that the page is still under development, but ordering works fine).
hi, i am trying to verify the wiring of my TPS. If i disconnect the TPS harness from the TPS itself and use a multimeter to probe across the signal pin and ground pin on harness side should i get 5V with ignition on? Note that I’m talking with the sensor unplugged, when it’s plugged in i get 0.9V closed throttle and 2.15V WOT across the signal and ground. This is a very small range between 0 and 100% throttle which is what im troubleshooting. Can anyone confirm that what I am seeing is correct with the wolf v500? i think this is correct but want to check with other users Thanks
Just wanted to share my little ignition winter project. I wanted to keep my triple carbs but I wanted better ignition. I'm sure it would also come with better emission which is also a good point. Hereâ€™s the car : â€™72 240z with 2.8L L28 engine coming from a 280zx. I'm converting it to Megajolt this winter during snow (& salt) season. I've tried to be exhaustive with my presentation. Only big advice I've got: Get good crimping tools! You must invest in one pair of pliers at least. I've got 3: one for moley pins, 2 for regular flat pins. I would discourage anybody who would intent this process with regular pliers. The engine is a "Hot" street L28, expected to have low & mid range torque: - Head milled, ported, polished, unshrouded, combustion chambers CCâ€™ed, new valve seats, Dual lub systems (internal in cam + spray bar) made by Braap. - Cam with asymmetrical profile from Rebello Racing with adequate springs, rockers, etc. - Bottom end is new also with new pistons, rings, bearings, HF oil pump, etc. Compression ratio is around 9.0:1 / 9.5:1. - 3x Weber 40DCOE with ported Cannon intake. Each runner is linked with the others with a canal to balance pressure between them. - 6-2-1 MSA coated exhaust header + custom 2,5â€ exhaust - Soon to disappear Mallory Unilite distributor Iâ€™m in process of converting the car. Wiring is almost done, I now need to focus on mechanical installation. Iâ€™ve chosen to run MJLJ with TPS option but I donâ€™t exclude to convert it to MAP later. We'll see how it runs first with TPS. For TPS, Iâ€™ve picked one up from a BMW 323ti (E36). The TPS does not have any spring loaded control, its shape for the shaft is easy to reproduce (a round Ã¸8mm shape with one flat) & it is easy to get at any junkyard. Only concern would be that it is not water tight. I got it in Europe for 15â‚¬ with the entire throttle body (people get rid of it for better 325i unit) I also got the one from Autosportlabs webshop but it is big, spring loaded with complex shaft print, so I wonâ€™t use it after all. Regarding install, Iâ€™ve installed MJLJ box on the sidekick panel on passenger side with a relay support + fuses. Iâ€™ve made a wiring diagram based on info from the Autosportlabs â€œhow toâ€ section & from one chart found on this board. Only difference is the way I expect to power up the EDIS coils. Iâ€™m going to plug the +12V source from the coil + side since the tach is triggered this way. This wiring diagram is good for pre-72 Z, others would likely needs the tach adapter & other type of wiring since Tach changed in 73. All wires are crimped with proper tools. When wires needed to be connected together; Iâ€™ve twisted them together, soldered them & protected them with shrink tubes. Wires are all protected with high temp hoses under the hood. For VR sensor, Iâ€™ve made a CAD model of the front of the engine to design a support. Support, in aluminum, is made with a CNC machine. Iâ€™ve taken into consideration some margin for adjustability. The drawback from the support is I need to ditch the stock fan & go with e-fan instead. I wanted to do it anyway so I did not botherâ€¦ 36-1 wheel is coming from the EDIS car donor. Crank damper has been machined to be slightly smaller than the wheel. I cannot feel any play but wheel can rotate freely around the pulley. The plan is to install the VR sensor, get the wheel in front of it accordingly, get a mark done & spot weld the wheel in place (hopefully the weld will not hurt the rubber, Iâ€™ll be careful about that). I would have to redo it, I think I would choose to pressfit the wheel instead of welding it but it is too late. EDIS coils have some rubber pads installed to avoid vibrations. Pads also raise the coils allowing me to get it install on a flat surface without any specific support. Pads are male/male type with Ã¸20 OD. I had to make a thread on each Coil support hole with Helicoils to make pads fit. TPS will be mounted on carbs rod linkage instead on carb shaft. My DCOE are the old style, thereâ€™s no hole on housing to install easily a support for TPS. Drawback with the way I expect to install TPS is that I wonâ€™t have 90Â° angle between idle & WOT but around 45-60Â°. Hopefully TPS resolution / sensitivity will be sufficient. The support will be a very simple steel plate design bent, nothing really fancy. Still need to design it and make it. To finish the first post, here's how my install looks like for now (or almost, wires have been setup, I don't see anything anymore from the driver side) The next steps would be to try the new support, check 36-1 wheel position, get the wiring finished under the hood and install EDIS components.
My TPS was somehow destroyed, and I'm looking to pick up one used. Not too concerned about the condition, as long as it works. I'm offering around $30 (It's three prongs and wires with a cam, I don't know why the parts stores want $70 for one.) I live in an isolated area in northern Arkansas, so I'll have to ship it. I drive a 1978 280z, 2+2 version. Naturally aspirated, IIRC turbo versions have a different TPS setting. I would be paying through PayPal.