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Found 140 results

  1. Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know
  2. Looking for Z32 TT Rear sub frame assembly. I bought one from a seller on ebay and it turned out to be a short nose R200. The pickings are pretty slim at the junk yards in North texas so trying my luck here. Specifically looking for R-230, Wheel hubs, Brakes, and ebrake assembly from a Z32 Turbo car to finish up the swap in my 280. If you have any of these parts and are in North texas or willing to ship please let me know. I JUST WANT TO DRIVE MY CAR AGAIN!! I have 2 longnose R200's id be willing to trade or just sell outright, a couple sets of axles, and of course an entire Z32 N/A car rearsubframe. Thanks!
  3. Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  4. ISO L28ET Stock Injectors

    Does anyone have a set for sale? I can't afford to buy refurbished ones. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and test bench so it's okay if they haven't been cleaned. Thanks!
  5. Can anyone tell me which vac hose to tap for a mechanical boost gauge on an L28ET? I took a pic. Bonus if you can draw an arrow pointing to a specific hose!
  6. So you may have seen my build thread. I am converting my N/A L28 to turbo using the stock N42/N42 motor with a 2mm HKS head gasket and a compression ratio of 7.65:1. Upon my research I have found that finding the exact turbo for this build is alot harder than I though. And requires some pretty good knowledge of how turbos work, compressor maps etc.. I've done some searching here and there but havent seen anyone doing my setup so far with the N42 combo with the 2mm gasket. Feel free to chime in and I'm curios to know what turbos you guys are running, and also if you have some helpful advice to steer me in the right direction that would be very helpful as well. I will continue my research either way. Here is what my goals are: Full spool by 3k-4k rpms. 300whp capable. 500-900 dollar price range (preferably around 700-800 if possible) These are the things I can think of at the moment, I am probably forgetting something. but a 3-4k spool seems like the best for the rpm range of this build (6500). Feel free to chime in with any advice, criticism, or whatever you'd like! I am wanting to learn, and wanting to make sure my setup is right the first time. Like I said earlier I will continue this research but I figured I'd put this post out here so I can see what people have to say. Shameless build plug >Click Me<
  7. I've been doing hours of research and have decided to get a boost gauge for my 280z with L28ET turbo swap. The problem is, I don't really like the look of any of the mechanical gauges. I really like the Speedhut one where you can "Design your own" and has an LED warning light: http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-01/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-20psi-(w--warning) I called and they said this was an electronic gauge. I know that installing a mechanical one is easy, but is an electronic boost gauge just as simple? It looks like speedhut supplies you with a pressure sensor and sensor wiring harness. It seems like you would just tap into the vacuum line with the T fitting, plug in the pressure sensor to the t-fitting, and run their sensor wiring harness to your gauge instead of a vacuum line like you would for a mechanical one. Is this correct?
  8. 1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  9. So about a week ago my car started to have issues when it got up to temp. It would originally start, idle, and run fine, but after the car began to get warm it would lean out like crazy (have a wideband installed) and there would be no response when throttle was applied under load. It did this for a few days until it decided to completely die on my way home from the gym. After a few minutes the car would start and idle lean on the side of the road, but then die immediately with any throttle (not under load). The engine is from a 1983 280zx turbo. After a little bit of research I'm wondering if it is my Crank Angle Sensor in my distributor, but I'm still very confused. I don't think it's a wet Throttle Position Sensor because I had that problem recently and I removed it/dried it out and the car ran fine. Also the symptoms are different due to not even idling rather than failing at 2000rpm. Short video with symptoms: https://streamable.com/nn9ls
  10. (Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
  11. (Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
  12. As the title says, I'm looking for the wastegate housing that bolts to the back of the turbine from a stock 280zx turbo. I'd possibly be interested in picking up a complete turbo too, if necessary. Again, thanks in advance!
  13. I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
  14. Here is one race at event 5. Did well. Lots of cars over 70 racing today. Next is exhaust and suspension upgrades. Sway bars Camber plates Frame rail Seats Roll cage https://youtu.be/0pmwZG9sp8k
  15. Hi all, I've finally decided to crawl out of my cave and surface my build here. I felt like I was taking more from this forum than I was giving. My build used a TON of info that I was able to unearth via this site. My hope is that my build adds to the plethora of information on here and helps others as much as it has helped me. Anyhow, I've been trying my best with the limited network/connections I have to get suggestions on where I should start with jetting for my turbo surge tank set up. I feel like I hit a dead end. I know that I have to fine tune the jetting for MY set up...so I'm currently in the process of installing a wide band O2 sensor and a boost gauge. However, does anyone here with experience have a ballpark estimate on jet sizes in an application like this? I don't want to start tuning my engine and have it catastrophically fail or damage my newly rebuilt motor because my jets are way out of line. Here is my set up: Engine: L28 N42 Block E88 Head (Debating on whether or not to install my spare P79 head in) 280zx Turbo dished pistons .020" oversize 1mm headgasket Stock L28 rods 280zxt stock exhaust manifold Custom 2.5" to 3" turbo back exhaust T3 Turbo w/internal wastegate: Compressor: Trim:55 Inducer Diameter:50.5 mm Exducer Diameter:76 mm A/R:0.5 Turbine Trim:73 Inducer Diameter:65.5 mm Exducer Diameter:55.9 mm A/R:0.63 Triple Mikuni 40PHH Carbs Main Jet: 145 Main Air Jet: 200 Pilot Jet: 60 Pump Nozzle: 0.45 I was able to find one member on here who ran a similar set up with a bone stock N42 block/internals 20+ years ago. He ran a 145 main jet. However, I was not able to find out what size his air correctors were. Any suggestions on baseline jet settings for a set up like this? Or am I just on my own with my O2 sensor analysis? I have included pictures for you! Please excuse the mess, it's still under construction. Thanks in advance!
  16. https://youtu.be/30nyGWq4mJQ Here is one of the runs. Got 3rd! Not bad on 6 year old dry rotted tires.
  17. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  18. SOLD

    Hello, FS is an L6 Oil Cooler setup. SOLD.
  19. Hello, Need a spare/replacement ECU? FS is an 83 ECU [A18-605-581] - $75 OBO Shipped. Need the AFM to go with it? FS is an 83 Turbo Refurbed AFM [A31-624-600] - $40 OBO Shipped.
  20. l28et vems standalone

    Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
  21. Decided to go a different route with my L28ET build so I am selling off my Turbonetics turbo i never got to use. It is their TNX line of turbos. The exact turbo can be seen here https://turboneticsinc.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_105&product_id=692 I opted for the .65 AR housing. Model: TNX-40/64 Comp Wheel: 82/64mm Comp Inlet: 4.0" Comp Out: 2.5" Turbine Wheel: 69/55mm Turbine Housing: T3 0.65AR Turbine Housing Inlet/Outlet: 4-bolt/ 3" V-Band Let me know if there are any other images you would like of the Turbo. Retail price for the turbo with housing is $2144.98 before shipping My asking price is $1500obo, Free shipping to any of the 48 states
  22. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  23. This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.
  24. Trying to clean out my garage. If you don't like my price, let's haggle. I like (physically small) trades too, but prefer cash. No prices include paypal fees (paid by you) Rays Volk Mesh II Removed from RHD Fairlady 280zx 14x7 +10 offset 5 wheels Need refinishing I have four matching center caps, just hunting for the 4th one. $550 plus shipping and paypal fees ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 280zx Swastika Wheels (very very clean) 14 pounds each 15x6 +10 offset 50% tread Falken 205/55/15 $300 plus shipping ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3 Screw Round Top SU Carb Setup Removed from strong running L24 six months ago. Replaced for triple carb upgrade. Recommend at least tear down and cleaning. Intake to air cleaner included. $300 plus shipping ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- N.O.S. Ansa Tips I have a total of three of these. Pristine condition, two in original boxes. I have been keeping these stashed for over 5 years. I always planed of welding in a y-pipe for that signature twin tip look. I never got around to it, then I impulsively bought the ZStory JDM twin tip muffler. Anyway, one is in near perfect condition, one is in great condition, the last is in great condition. Pipe inlet diameters: 2" and 2.5". I will need to verify these numbers. $75 each shipped
  25. Up for sale is my 1978 280z with approximately 135,000 miles: $8500.00 (also, posted on Ebay) I bought the car from the original owner over 10 years ago and have been diligently restoring it ever since…brings me back to my high school days but life has gotten in the way and mandates the sale. What has been done: Rebuilt Stroker Turbo engine, upgraded Z32 5-speed Transmission and Z31 LSD differential and reconditioned/ upgraded suspension. The LSD clutches were upgraded w/ thicker clutch pates for about an 80LB break away (comes with original clutch plates if you chose to return to stock). Four wheel disk brakes w/ functional emergency brakes and hydraulic power steering. What’s remaining: Body work (nothing major – some rust on driver’s door and right lower front fender and rear deck lid – replacement deck lid is available from MSA for about $250), paint, carpet kit replacement and interior clean-up. Floor boards are good. The car runs great and is a blast to drive with plenty of power and a wonderful exhaust note. It has a fairly new radiator, starter, alternator, brake and clutch master cylinders, clutch slave cylinder and NGK plugs. Here are some of the key upgrades: Engine: L28E (N42/N42) bored to 3.1L (Stroker w/ LD crank) Turbonetics t3/t04E w/JWT Z31 ECU & Cobra MAF Jim Wolf 420 Tuned ECU w/ Ford MAF and MB Injectors (Pallnet fuel rail) N42 intake w/240SX 60mm throttle body and stock turbo exhaust manifolds 3-Inch Exhaust w/ Magnaflow Muffler Drivetrain: Z32 5 speed Trans, z31 r200 LSD w/CV's (Modern Motor Works billet adapters), Fidanza Flywheel 4 Wheel Disc Brakes (Toyota 4 piston mono-block calipers on the front w/ cross drilled rotos all around) Power Steering (operates flawlessly) Suspension: Motor Sport Sway bars Urethane Bushings all around Eibach Springs w/ Tokico illumine 5 way Adjustable Shocks Wheels/Tires: 15x7 Rota RB w/ 225/50 Kumho tires (need new tires) Interior: Mazda Miata Seats (fully adjustable on OEM tracks – look great) Car is located in Round Lake beach, IL Ken (847) 345-1215