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Found 31 results

  1. Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S.
  2. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some very short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that either fixed the problem, or when the fluid gets hot it begins to leak (I think I read something about a overflow on the top of the C4.) So I am working that out. Problem is – I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  3. So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes
  4. I've been wanting a Datsun for the last 20 years but it seems like there is never a right time to buy a 30+ year old car, especially with my intense love for motorcycles. Somehow I've finally managed to take the plunge and picked up a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Body work was "professionally-done" and was primered about a year ago. Interior is mostly complete and is the best i've seen since i started looking recently. A modified Ford 306 was swapped in with a 3-speed C4 transmission with a manual body. Suspension is stock. I'm going to post in the FORD V8 section in the next day or two as i am in completely over my head, lol. Here are some quick pictures, cause now "just-bought" thread is complete without them. Please forgive the blue tape, its been raining here in CA and the trim is in the garage at the moment.
  5. Hey guys was curious if anyone has a BBC write up. Picking up a L78 6.5L 396 BBC for my 78 208Z 2+2. Car had a SBC in it over the summer and i wasnt impressed. Stumbled across the 396 for a good price. Was wondering if anyone has done this swap or a similar one. Curious about fitment and clearance.
  6. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  7. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  8. Hey guys, I've got a 78 280Z with a V8 in it but my goal is to style it in JDM fashion, big flares, airdams, spoilers etc. I have a build log you can check out here: www.vvise.net/z.php I'll try to keep this thread up to date with an image or two when I make progress on the car. Just last night I rebuilt all my gauges with new white faces that I made and LED lights. I think the effect is amazing.
  9. 5.7L LT1 280z for sale

    Well time the time has come. Life is happening and decisions must be made. First off, I want to make this clear to everyone interested; I am not in a situation where I am being forced to sell the Z. I still very much enjoy working on her and taking her out for a drive. So why am I selling it? The direction I want to go in life is going to have me away from the world of cars for a bit, and I do intend to return back to the addiction that is Z cars, but until then she needs a good partner. Having been through a couple of Zs before, I wanted to take a different approach with this one. Not a restoration, but more of a reliable mild tune car for just fun cruising and possibly a daily driver. Plus, if I wanted to increase the power later I would have the ability to. I had heard about the V-8 swaps that were popular back in the day and so decided to go that route. Ford vs Chevy? Based on the information I found and hours of research I settled on a small block Chevy. With the Jags that Run guide, decided on what is seems to be a strong, reliable engine, the 5.7L LT1. This is a 1976 280z that has been modified based off the Jags that Run handbook, to now house a 1995 LT1 drivetrain. So what we’re talking about here is a 5.7 liter (a true 350 Z haha…) LT1 from a 1995 Corvette, a T56 Transmission and custom drive shaft to fit it all in her. The differential is a R200 differential which would be sufficient for me wants and needs. What this also meant was that incase anything required more work that I could do, or had time for, I would be able to take it to a Chevy dealership and they would be able to work on it from engine up to the differential. Now time for the actual build and changes made to the Z! Exterior Keeping in the front of the Z, headlights were upgraded to Dapper Lighting’s HID retrofit. Decided this time around to go with their new (at the time) larger projector lights with the 5000k lighting. Most of the driving I did was during the day anyways, but there’s probably 30 hours of run time on the bulbs. So basically new. Suspension, went with new shocks and new springs, dropped the car about an inch. Sits low enough that it looks nice but doesn’t affect suspension or other geometry on the car i.e. tires don’t bottom out. Gauges were replaced with speedhut gauges. The Speedo and Tach have been fit into the original housing sleeve to have a stock/modern look to it. Current gauges that are in there consist of a speedometer/tachometer on the steering column. Center stack consists of oil pressure, fuel gauge and temperature gauge. Cut out a hole for mounting a speaker in the storage compartments behind the seats. Just nice to have some tunes running in the background sometimes while driving. Car has enough power to run an amp and be able to push better/louder speakers, but at the time this was not much of a concern of mine. Moving on to the rear of the car, fuel door was removed/welded shut and blended in with the rest of the car to have a clean look. Gas tank and rear spare tire area was cut out and a 16 gallon fuel cell was installed. Tires I had on it during the build where some American Racing wheels. Didn’t look good on her at all, but did the job while moving and building. Those have been replaced with Konig Rewinds 16 x 7 in the silver/chrome color. The tires I decided to go with were the BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Comp 2. I bought these through Discount Tire since they had the best price for everything, had them install the matching tire stems and all 4 tires have their refund/replacement certificate warranty. I would need to see if this is transferrable to a new owner. I also purchased a locking lug kit for the tires. Since the mounting of the wheels I have driven a little under a thousand miles on them…so brand new really. Windshield developed a crack, so had it replaced with a new one. Was able to get one with the small blue tint strip up at the top, which the previous one had turned brown after 40 years. All doors and windows have new seals and strips. Windshield doesn’t leak in the corners. Wipers still work, speeds consisting of slow and less slow, not that they were ever used but still. Front and rear bumper were removed, with the rear area being blended away, and the front still has the indents from it. Front airdam was installed to complete the lines of the car. Bushing were all replaced on the car. Steering has no slack/dead spot, and car corners and drives on rails. Very nice feel overall. Breaks are stock setup, with discs in front and drums in back. I don’t drive it hard to the point I needed the extra stopping power, plus with the cost of doing a conversion, I was going to leave that for after the interior was done to my liking. I painted the car a blue hue, official name is Daytona Blue Pearl. Car was sanded and smoothed to create as flat as a surface as possible. Car was then primed and about 6 coats of paint and 4 coats of clear where laid down. Is it a 100 point car? Nope. Has its minor imperfections, but you would not notice them unless you were up close and specifically looking for them. Door jambs where painted as well as the engine compartment and underneath the hood. Only part that was not sprayed was underneath the inspection lids. Wheel wells and area behind the grill were sprayed with rubber coating to blacken and cover the areas. Grill was never added, was looking for a suitable style, but left it open for now. Did notice that there is a crack/dent in the paint on the rear passenger quarter panel, nickel/penny size. Doesn't bother me much, its not a garage queen, but its there. Interior Interior of the car was next on the list of things to do, but did start with a minor refresh. Carpet and trunk carpet is new. Radio/speakers, gauges and A/C unit are aftermarket. New panels were bought and installed to replace cracked/worn ones. What was remaining was the door panels and center console. The center console is not in a bad condition, but the plastic is getting old and brittle, and if you’re going to make it look sleek, best to change it out. Dashboard has a cap, so I am assuming it is cracked. Oil pressure gauge is not reading. The gauge works, but the sender unit from the motor does not seem to be working. Would need to be checked out and replaced. Fuel gauge is not reading correctly. Reads Empty when cell is full, reads Full as cell empties. Though signal was backwards, tested wires to see, was not able to correct the issue. Left it as is for now but problem might be in the sender unit. I know I get about 200 miles to the tank, so I use that to gauge gas. I accidently over calculated the amount of dynomat I thought I would need, so instead of letting it go to waste, in a bout of military genius, I went ahead and dynomatted the entire interior. Definetly cut down on the noise and heat transfer. At the cost of some extra weight sure, but it’s a 5.7 V8…not much of a concern there… Engine Engine was rebuilt, with the pistons being replaced with forged ones for reliability and incase I would decide to push the motor at a later point in time. EFI and wiring system was all removed and replaced with a Holley 4 barrel (4160). Installed MSD distributor. Transmission was also rebuilt, to make sure that engine and tranny would be as solid as possible. Adapter bracket was fitted so that I could also run an A/C system in the Z. Certain things I could forgo but A/C was not one of them. A/C system also now has a modern electric heater, good for defrosting the front on those cool spring or fall days. Alternator is also a slightly upgraded model than what JTR recommended. Necessary? Probably not, but it was the same price as the recommended one. Memory fails me, but want to say from a later year Camaro? Electric fan is mounted on the radiator. Never had any problems with her overheating, even when sitting in traffic with the A/C running in the summer. This was in DC this summer, and last year in the summer. Quite hot if anyone was around there then. Dual exhaust was installed and the rear end was modified to create a clean look with the bottom edge tucking in under the car a bit. Mufflers stick out about an inch, nothing crazy. They are straight pipes, so no cats. Means the growl is louder and the smell is stronger. Can’t tell with the windows closed and the A/C running, but like a true Z, open the windows and you’ll have a nice smell flow back in. So that’s what has been done to the car, as best as I can remember. The car has not been tracked or drag raced. . Again, the Z was worked on to make it as reliable of a driver as possible. I enjoy working on cars, but I enjoy driving them more. Decided to put it all to test by driving it from Virginia to Illinois and back. Zero issues there and back, and the drive and ride itself was an absolute blast. This was done on the old tires and rims. I helped a friend move from Virginia to Ohio, where I hauled the Z to. From there, with the Konigs and Sport Comps, I drove it from Ohio to Illinois. That was the most mileage put on those tires, the rest has simply been local driving around town. What will be included with the sale, will be everything Z related that I own and have acquired over the years. I could probably sell the extra parts separately but time and convenience is the biggest factor for me right now. Reference List Rebuilt 5.7L LT1 with forged pistons Holley carb installed in place of EFI Rebuilt T56 Transmission Custom driveshaft A/C and heater fitment New/Fresh paint with clear, Daytona Blue Pearl New bushings Dual exhaust, straight pipe (no cat) New shocks and coils, lowered 1 inch HID headlight upgrade Shaved gas door Shaved and blended rear end 16 gallon fuel cell New door seals Speedhut gauges Konig Rewinds 16 x 7, silver with matching stems Locking lugnuts GForce Sport Comps 2 (less than 1000 miles on them) MSD dizzy Included with sale: 1 quart paint for touchup or recoatings Fiberglass hood Fiberglass hatch, with glass installed Set of 4 American Racing rims and tires with lugs. Tires need to be replaced. Various set of original gauges and gauge housings. Left and right door windows Left and right quarter windows Right passenger seat in white vinyl, pretty good condition, from a ‘77 Taillight trim and panels from ’77 Z, good condition. There is more in a couple of boxes that is in storage in Ohio which I will be picking up here soon, but some of the stuff that I remember off the top of my head: Holly rebuild kit and various carb parts, manuals and paperwork for A/C unit, various component boxes and paperwork, speaker parts, glove box liner and door, various weather stripping and seals, bushing kits I will be updating this thread with the stuff that is in the boxes as soon as I can get my eyes on them again. Updated pictures will be included as well, weather hasn’t been cooperating much here to allow a cleaning and pictures. In the mean time, I have uploaded pictures of the car when it was done being painted (note the stylish American Racing rims....haha) and the various parts in the car All of the hard work has been done, with only minor bits and pieces that need to be completed. I have contact information for a guy on the forum that makes fiberglass door panels, I can put you in contact with him if interested. Since the engine build up until now, there are almost 3000 miles done on it. I have done synthetic oil in all my cars, this was is no different. Initial oil change was done at 500 miles for any metal burns that might be in there, and I just changed the oil again, with 5W-20 synthetic. Oil filter is Royal Purple. Serious inquiries only please! No tire kickers, no joy rides. Any questions feel free to PM me. You can post it on here, but I may not respond to it right away. 1976 Datsun 280z with 5.7L LT1 v8 from a 1995 Corvette Approximate miles on build: 3,000 miles $16,000
  10. Any Canadians Here?

    I've been lurking around here for a little while, figured it's about time to put a post down and add some visibility to my Z. First off, I'm out in the Kitchener/Waterloo Region in Ontario, Canada. I think there's a handful of old Z cars up here. Second, I bought my 280Z last summer have been working on it gradually since then. It's got a 305 SBC V8 in it which makes a wonderful sound, and I've been slapping cosmetic mods onto it non stop. This summer I hope to get new wheels, flares, and suspension and lower the thing. Third, here's a picture. Cheers, if you're the trendy type you can keep up to speed on the car on my instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/pporzuczek/
  11. Hey all! I'm planning out a V8 swap for my '82 280zx coupe. I'm planning on using a 6.0L LQ4 with a T56 6 speed manual out of a '98-'02 F-body. I decided to stay with the R200 differential so that I can keep my independent suspension. I'm looking for someone that has done this same swap that can tell me what the length of the drive shaft needs to be. I know there is a lot of support with this swap so I was hoping that there is a drive shaft out there that will work with that setup. Does anyone who did this same swap have a good set of measurements for their drive shaft? Or will I have to have one made? Thanks for any/all help, Ford
  12. First and foremost, I would like to apologize to everyone with those super sweet z cars that opted not to molest them. This will make you cringe. Some of you will probably love this build more than you should. I have been a SUPER long time lurker here, as I have been tooling on this car for the better part of 7 years, 4-5 hours at a time, 3 months at a time. One thing of note, is that I stayed on a very slim budget for the most part, cheap as possible, expensive as necessary. I did have some non-negotiable goals, one of which was taking a lot of inspiration from the Shelby Daytona car... My true love in life. Now before more long story, some z pr0n. These were the pictures I was provided with when responding to an ad for a super cheap 240z 6 hours from me. I didn't afraid. It was every bit as aweful as it looked in those pics. When we went to load it on the car dolly, the rear end seized and we had to pull the drive shaft anyway so we just wheeled it around on the jack to get it to the dolly. The fuse box also tried to catch fire, the car ran on even after ignition was off, it had a aquafina bottle as an "nhra legal" overflow lololol... the seller was kind, but man, he was really trying to sell this pile. At this time it had a small block Chevy 305 and a th350 in it already with a custom driveshaft already made. So I was stoked that a lot of the work was done for me. This was not a blessing, literally everything the previous carsmith had done was brutally wrong and was shady in one way or another and really just sucked and didnt work. couldnt catch all gears, super drive line problems, suspension felt like it was going to fall off on decel(later found out that a tire on the front was literally full of water, only after installing all new poly bushings on the whole car), seats moved a lot but were power seats with no power, I mean, holes in every panel, completely destroyed wiring harness with countless shorts. You know, a real mans tear provoking nightmare. And I welcomed it. Now, I started this pretty young, and have gone through many life stages while working on it, changing my outlook a little at a time. The first 2 years with the car, I was unmarried and renting a house with a tiny carport. It was hard to do much, but since I purchased the car very cheap, I decided my next tax refund would go towards things like all new weather stripping(which ended up sitting in a box for 4 years) and a body kit to kind of modernize the look, but not be too ricy... failed that kinda. I wanted the perfect blend of muscle and import. I feel like it worked out well in the end, a lot of things would have been done differently if I started it again today, but fukkit. A big part of this project was learning to fabricate and do body work and all that fun stuff. What I realized was I hate body work and take my hat off to people who do it well. I had a few things I did great, but I really did not have the patience for it after waiting to really drive the thing for 6 years. I ended up just sealing the body with a nice epoxy primer so that I can further build and finish the body work some winter in the garage I now have. I just shot it with a cheap rustoleum job and put the glass back in and drove the hell out of it for a day until I realized it wouldnt really shift anymore. Then some where in between the putting the body kit on and actually painting it, I got married, bought a house, became a foster parent... lots going on, even less time and money for the car. Progress was slow, but one spring I just sat down and steeled my will with the only option I had. Sort out the impossible. I had been stopped by the 5 speed swap failure of the previous spring. But I decided to figure it out. The drivetrain was a complete mashup, sbc v8 into the mythical jeep bell housing from the iron duke, into a ford pattern t5 out of a 96 v6 camaro 5 speed, into the original custom driveshaft into an r200 lsd out of the 280z. All of the hydraulics were also from a jeep. I had many problems getting this bell housing to actually work, despite seeing people all over the internet saying it was a sure thing, yet no one ever actually doing it themselves and having details, or the details that some could find referring to Napa part numbers that haven't existed for a decade. Neat. Well internet, despair no longer, for I have made it work! Details will be in another post, because this is going to be a huge convoluted post even without that juju. Painted Pics! As of a month or so ago, I have been tearing up the streets in this new ride, it still has tons and tons of work to be even close to finished, but it is SO fun to drive anyway. No interior, jank gauge mount... lack of gauges... you know, the optional equipment Between last year and this year, the brake system decided it was its final year of life as far as rubber goes, so I had to completely redo it, I took advantage of that to install a disc brake conversion on the rear(I know, its heavy but it was 120 bucks more than all of the parts i had to put into the factory old drums and it felt wrong), new soft lines, new hard lines, new calipers and pads up front, new booster, and a new master. She stops real nice now. Now, I would like to say, that I tried to take good pictures, but I failed, and I am going to show you guys anyway, because I have no shame. I mean, I drove that thing around the way it looks and loved it. It is for me to enjoy as a street legal go-kart and nothing more. Just a toy to be abused. MOAR PICS! I will try to be a active for a bit to answer questions people may have about putting parts that should never be together into one of these things, I have learned A LOT. I mean, nothing on that is stock anymore but the gas tank, headlights, and the front calipers... everything else came from some other donor... chevy, jeep, nissan, mazda, ebay, and other datsuns. yay.
  13. Wanted: Cheap V8 Swapped Z

    I am looking for a cheap, running and driving v8 swapped Z. It can be ugly but I do not have the equipment to do a swap. I have the skills and equipment to give it some TLC such as suspension and paint. A decent interior would be nice. I am young and broke, but will take good care of it.
  14. AEM Series 2 Honda box for V8

    I read on XJared's S130 VK56 build over on the Nicoclub that he used an AEM Honda 30-1050U box to get his car running and I see a local classified ad for a Series 2 Honda box. I'm wondering if it will work, seller doesn't remember exact model number just that is a series 2 (as evidenced by the physical ecu box labeling); the AEM website lists the following as specs: Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs Up to 16 general-purpose outputs Up to 8 definable switch inputs Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim 1MB of internal data logging Wondering if this would work for my VK56 S30 project that I am currently (slowly) working on? I can't PM XJared on Nicoforums because I don't have enough posts to enable the feature. I did post on his build thread asking about this possibilities but I thought I would post here as well since I am sure some of you are way beyond me in ECU/ECM knowledge and capabilities. I don't see any problems where it will handle 12 injectors and 8 direct fire coils. I'd feel better about bugging the seller anymore about the price, and driving the hour to get it, if I knew for sure I could make it work. I also know one of the local custom shops mentioned they have worked with AEM boxes while tuning on their dyno but they don't sell them directly. Thanks!
  15. Hi everyone, I've been using this site for research along the way gearing up for my build. I just created an account, and this is my 1st post. I'm excited to interact and share my experience as I go with those I've mooched off of for so long! I've done a trial fit to check that the motor/oil pan/trans all lines up ok- so far so good! I'm now in the process of the final build on my 383, and about to pull the trigger on my suspension/brakes/hubs/axles etc. I figured I'd give up some info for critique from the experts (that's you guys!). I think I've ironed out most of the kinks of the build in my head, but maybe someone can catch me before I make stupid and expensive mistakes. 1st, a little history on the car/theme- I moved to san diego 5 years ago from Philadelphia, and I never knew such fun roads could exist! So I decided I needed a car that was more fun to drive, and after test driving a lot of cars, I bought an rx8. This was not even on my list of potential vehicles, but the salesman offered a fun test drive, so I bit. After driving such a light car, I can vow to never have a heavy "fun car" again! The rx8 was a hoot, but it didn't scratch my hot rod itch. After some digging, I came across the z cars. Amazingly lightweight, awesome weight distribution, ample underhood room, ginormous transmission tunnel, manual rack and pinion, strut suspension- I'm so in!!! Ok, now all I need to do is find one, being from philly, I've barely ever seen one- salty roads and weather wiped them all away long before my time. I figured I'd save up, and find a good specimen even if it took months. It took a day...I found a clean 69k mile, 1 owner, original orange county car for $1300 an hour from home- done! Ever since I've been reading and researching for the proper combination of parts that will satiate my "requirements" as a driver. It needs to be fast- stupid fast. It needs to handle- and not make me wish I had something else. It needs to look great- which Z's do!. It needs to be affordable- I'm not a "rich guy". (I could have bought a restored 63 corvette with a 9000rpm 302 or something if I were rich!) In all honesty, I'm really happy about the path I'm headed down with this car, and it really seems like a no compromise plan for not "classic muscle car" money, and it will be faster, handle better, and in my opinion, even look better. I can't decide if I really liked the 240 that much off the bat, or if I fell in love with it after staring and dreaming...I think it was both! Ok enough blabbering about why I'm doing this, and onto the technicals- This will be a street/strip car. Street because it would be a sin to build a drag car with the roads in san diego. Strip because theres no point of a car (imo) that you can't let fly. So the plan is as follows, 383, 11:1, brodix track1 heads, solid roller cam, single plane, holley 850hp carb (I build engines, that's the easy part). Should be about 550 horse on motor and pull to 7200 rpm, coming in around 2300rpm, trying to make it a canyon carver and a strip terror is tough for a cam designer, but my man says he has it covered... T56 6spd trans with aluminum flywheel and Ram powergrip hd clutch, good to 650hp as per Ram, and thats for a 3600lb car. R200 from q45, with techno toy tuning backing plates allowing q45 hubs, eliminating stub axles and flanges, while using q45 cv's with chromoly axles, and q45 brakes. Techno toy coilovers all around with tokico illiminas, 5 lug front hubs, and 300mm 4 piston brake kit. MSA sway bar kit, and quick ratio bump steer spacers. Possibly "zpowersteering's" electric steering assist kit. I have a shop on board to do the roll bar. For wheels I'm thinking 16x8, 5x4.5, 0 offset American Racing Torq Thrust II's polished. For tires, 225/50r16 front and 245/50r16 rear, maybe 45 series, not sure on that yet, need to do some measuring. I'm planning to use vintage air's system for AC, because the last thing I want is to get the car done, and loathe driving it because I don't want to stick the the seat. Soooo, what do you guys think??? I'd like to call out rebekahsz on this one, she always seems to have good input on stuff I've read before, plus the front tires are off the ground in the signature thumbnail Sorry that was so long winded everybody, I guess I've never had a chance to say all that to anyone that I thought would care before... please feel free to tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree with any of the parts I've chosen, or if you have any better ideas, all I have so far is the motor, transmission, and car. The techno toy order is ready, and I'll probably order it next week after I build the car in my head 10 more times haha. (Ps- the body isn't as bad as it looks, just red paint flaking to the original yellow beneath. I think that's why I got it so cheap, in the craigslist ad, it looked like bondo everywhere!) Thanks to all who have any input or recommendations in advance.
  16. So, long story short I recently bought a relatively clean 1974 260z. It already has a small block AMC v8 swap consisting of a 5.0l (304). I picked up an AMC 5.9l (360) engine that I will be rebuilding and replacing the 304 with. Here's a little cut and paste from my only other thread detailing how I got it home. It was a nearly 3 hour drive each way and the car very nearly made it in one piece. I noticed that the engine was running warm, at least over 200 degrees, and stayed there. I filled it up with gas two times on the way back, on the second fill up it started up then died from vapor lock, as the fuel filter was dry as a bone. After I let it sit and cool down it fired right back up, and we were on our way again. After another 10 minutes on the highway, it ended up tossing the water pump and alternator belt. It may have been a bad or gummed up pump that was causing it to run hot, so that will be replaced very soon. I brought a buddy and a truck with me though, so we towed it back to my house the rest of the way and it's now sitting pretty in my garage. I have some pictures I took this morning of the still dirty car, I haven't had a chance to wash it yet and the previous owner lived on a long gravel road. It used to be a show car in Chicago, and it came with some trophies won by that owner, as well as some shop manuals and a couple of extra headlights. Here's the pictures! It is a vinyl top 260z, I didn't even know that these were made. I guess you learn something new every day. It's in very good condition all around, almost zero rust anywhere. The bottom and frame rails were undercoated by the owner in Chicago, the guy who used it as a show car. He also painted the car with it's current livery and it appears he used the car's weight in flake. It's a little too "bass boat" and not enough "bad ass" for my taste, but that will change with time.
  17. 1971 240Z V8 $8000

    Hi Everyone. I have been using this forum for a while and really appreciate all the great info. Well here is my former daily driver, that I have completely customized. Sadly selling, but hope that the next person will also enjoy it. 1971 Datsun 240Z Series 2 $8000 Clean Title in hand. Registered and fully insured for last 3 years that I have owned it. All work documented with photos and receipts. I also have receipts of previous owner, going back 11+ years. Chevy V8 from a 1973 Camaro - professionally installed Push button start. Starts right up, never a hesitation. Sounds amazing. 700R4 auto trans - rebuilt recently 600cfm Edelbrock 1405. I just had it professionally rebuilt at BFIC, with Daytona aluminum float pins. Holley aluminum intake manifold Hooker Shorty Comp Headers into 2.75" Custom Stainless Exhaust. R200 3.90 rear end custom drive shaft B+M Shifter Custom fiberglass dash with custom airplane-style switches Custom stainless exhaust Custom aluminum Grill custom rear valence - yes those are nissan cube lights! fenders and headlight buckets made into 1 piece. H4 Halogen headlights. Hi Beams work. Shaved blinkers and gas door. Headlight assembly has been fully restored with new parts and gaskets Many parts Sandblasted, and the most of the body sanded down to bare metal, sprayed with 2-part epoxy primer. The interior and floors were sanded down to bare metal and I applied POR15 using the correct 3 step method. I also did the front frame and wheel wells I used Eastwood internal frame coating inside entire frame/chassis/structural areas. Ready for you to pick the paint color! Original color is 918 Orange. NEW PARTS within the past year or so: Champion 3 row aluminum radiator, dual fans Tires all around wiring - all GXL wire, new fuse box seat cushions, and new vinyl covers Fiberglass parts: front bumper, front spoiler, hood, rear hatch, rear spoiler Mallory electric fuel pump - very quiet RCI Aluminum fuel cell - 16 Gallon Autometer gauges and new sensors New parts within past 2 years or so: Starter HEI Distributor Master Brake Cylinder Battery Torque Converter Serious inquiries only. cash only. no trades. Im not a mechanic, but will do my best to answer any questions. I also have a set of new Tokico HP shocks and Eibach springs, and fiberglass flares that I will sell separately. It is located in Downtown Los Angeles.
  18. 280z Manual R200 V8 Swap

    Hi Guys I am about to purchase a complete rear end setup from a 1978 280z. The owner claims the car was a manual, and I'm needing to know how to identify that the car really was a manual. I know that if the car was truly a manual, then the rear end is indeed a R200. Any tips or identifiers on the rear end or the car being a manual is much appreciated. I've listed a link where I sourced the majority of my info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Thanks, Ben
  19. I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
  20. So I've had my eyes on a ls1 engine and a bunch of parts I couldn't identify at my cousins shop. I've just about got my dad sold on the idea of swapping a Chevy V8 into my 260Z and he actually seems really interested. (probably because it's GM) AAnyway I was wondering about your rear end setups on your V8 swapped Z's I know the common option is a R200 LSD or welding a R180 but I'm still kinda anxious about putting close to 350 hp to the wheels on a 40 year old car. Also I need help IDing the engine its self. It's an aluminum block LS1 so I know it's a car engine but I'm unsure about the displacement. I remember somebody at a family reunion saying something about a 5.3l at their shop but I thought the 5.3's were truck engines? My dad swears my cousin got the engine out of a Corvette a few years back but I'm not sure. Thank you guys! PS; I know many people will get the exhaust manifolds off of a Vortec truck to modify into a turbo manifold and I was wondering what the most common truck you can get the manifolds off of is?
  21. Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and should be one of the stronger parts in my drivetrain...leaving the axles as the weakest link i think. My question is this...how likely am I to hurt any of the axle parts with these street tires and my automatic? Both on the street and at the track (assuming i hook pretty well)? Have any of you broken them in the middle of a pass? (not off the line). I also would like to put maybe a 150 shot on the motor, as the motor was running on nitrous regularly in the previous car. I'd be looking to squeeze probably in 2nd gear...and I'm wondering if even that might be enough to shock one of those parts enough. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  22. I have a 75 280z with a sbc swap and I have been searching for info on where you v8 z guys are hiding the vacuum bottle and solenoids for the ac system. I really would like to clean up the look of my engine bay and the big bottle is a looks killer any help would be a big help thanks. Will S. p.s. check out my build thread rolling with the punches.
  23. SBC V8 Part-Out

    I'm reasonable, make a reasonable offer and we can work something out. Prices do not include shipping (which you will have to pay) T350 trans - $200 Exhaust system, S130 custom - $350 Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads Scorpion 1.5 anodized roller rockers - $800 Edelbrock performer RPM intake - $150 Holley 3310 vacuum carb 750cfm -$100 350 shortblock w/ Comp Cams 268XE cam - $250 JTR block huggers (ceramic) - $200 MSD pro billet distributor - $175 MSD 6AL box - $150 JTR SBC engine mounts/plates - $50
  24. hey guys i'v been looking on line for answers to solve my sloppy rear suspension, i have the tokico lowering kit 'springs and blue shocks.' i have a 5.3 lm7 with a saginaw 4 speed trans. stripped interior ' no dash' and new 195/70r14 tires, and new poly bushings all around. the set up feels alright when im cruising around and in straight lines but when i start going 65ish mph through a long fast turn i feel the rear wanting to spin. 1) I wonder if my car is unbalanced since i have the v8 up front and only the fuel tank in the back?i did position the engine as close to the fire wall as possible when i made my motor mounts. 2) And if its not because of weight distribution is it because i dont have the correct spring rates for my set up? what would you recommend on the springs F and R ?
  25. 5.3 Ls

    From the album 5.3 v8 280zx

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