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Showing results for tags 'wont start'.
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I got my 1973 240z for my senior project and ive done everything i can find and think of to get it started but i still get nothing. Background info: Bought it from behind a mechanic shop i volunteer at, apparently been sitting for 2 years and the owner didn't want to buy new carburetors to replace his terrible gunked up ones. but it ran when parked (thats all the background info i got) the car seems to have some electrical issues i think seeing as no lights came on when i turn the key and it wouldn't even turn over by the key. I had to take out the dash so i could cut out the old floor pan and frame rails (rusted beyond repair) and weld in the new ones, so right now the dash is out So far ive: Bought new to me flat top carburetors and had them rebuilt by the shop i volunteer at got new spark plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, point set, ignition condenser, air and fuel filter, and in pump fuel filter I know its getting spark i checked by taking a spark plug out and making sure it did (arc was blue, ive heard it may not start if its arc is orange because its weak) granted i do have to run a wire straight from the battery to the coil when i try to start it to get 12v to it im pretty positive its getting fuel i can see it going up through the filter the carburetors were just rebuilt so im sure thats not the problem ive tried spraying carb spray in the carbs but to no avail it turns over just fine but refuses to start I may be missing something obvious but im at a total loss any help would be greatly appreciated Adrienne
I was almost ready to deliver a 1976 280Z Restomod to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! We started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. The car would crank but not start. If the engine was cold, it would start, run one minute or less and then die and not restart for hours. At first check my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the plugs and checked again, dry as a bone no fuel in cylinders. Next, even though the fuel pressure measured correct before and after the fuel rail, we replaced the fuel pressure regulator just in case and still not the solution. Started intense troubleshooting with the EFI Bible and FSM. Replaced the MAS after cleaning the contacts and still nothing! Cranks just fine when cold and would start and run for a minute and then die and refuse to start until cold again. Checked the throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime, nothing! Still would start when cold most of the time but die after less than a minute. Double and triple checked the injectors listening to ensure the injectors continued to fire after the engine started and we weren't losing pulse, still no good. So what does the bible say after all these checks, replace the ECU! Luckily, I thought I already have a spare ECU for my 1977 FI 280Z. Guess what, doesn't work, wrong part number. Here's where ECU's get tricky I found out. The 1975-76 Auto Trans FI models use ECU A11-600, the 1977-78 Auto Trans FI models use A11-601. My 1976 280Z 4-Speed Coupe uses the A11-601 ECU! So off to Ebay to find an ECU to match A11-600 in my daughters car. Two weeks later it arrives and we plug it in and walla, nothing... It starts and runs less than a minute and dies and won't restart! Totally frustrated and confused we start the troubleshooting process again re-checking every pin on the ECU harness and we suddenly notice that Pin 1 is giving us varying voltages of .3 to 12.7 volts. At 12.7 volts the engines starts, runs less than a minute and dies, when we re-check the Pin 1 voltage and try to restart the engine we get .3 - .7 volts. Bingo! Finally we have a negative reading we can start tracing! So where does Pin 1 on the ECU connect to? The Ignition Input Circuit! We started tracing the wiring harness for the Ignition system around the engine compartment and back under the dashboard and find terminal corrosion on the connectors under the passenger side glove box. Cleaned the terminals and connectors and applied a generous dose a electolytic grease and instant start and run! Thank goodness for excellant mechanics and friends who spent 2 weeks with me crawling under the dashboard and hood testing and retesting component after component to find the issue and resolve it! I hope this might help someone else in the future. If your Pin 1 on the ECU measures anything less than 12 volts, you have an electircal problem not mechanical! You must have 12 volts on this pin for the car to start and run, if the votage drops after it starts and dies check the ignition circuit connections under the glovebox. Clean and grease those terminals because the corrosion heats up after ignition and interrupts the connection of power to your injectors. Good luck!
I just put my car back together after my budget restoration. I had removed the fuel tank and painted it. When I reinstalled it, I had some difficulty finding anything to reference where the fuel tank nipples connect to, but I connected the bottom nipple to the outgoing fuel filter. The fuel pump is kicking on, and there is a little gas in the bottom of the filter, but it doesn't seem to be building pressure. I replaced the rubber lines under the car and have them tightly hose-clamped into place. If it matters, my car does not have a charcoal canister under the hood. The metal fuel line that connects to the canister is sitting open. The tank has ~7 gallons in it. Maybe the fuel tank doesn't have enough fuel for the pump to prime? Thoughts?