wrcbonk Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) Figured I better post some pics of my throttle cable installation. I used the Lockar Hi-Tech throttle cable kit. The kit comes with attaching hardware, but I ended up going down to Ace and buying a little adjustable cable stop. I found the cable stop in the hardware area in a box marked lawn mower control hardware. The cable stop fit nice and snug in where the factory cable end had gone on the throttle body. To make this work I had to drill a small hole for the end of the cable to terminate through on the throttle body side. Use the hole in the cable stop as a guide and its pretty easy.I routed the lockar cable underneath the Freddy.The cable stop will work on the stock throttle body as well. I happen to be using a Q45 throttle body. To make the throttle cable function and be routed straight I ended up modifying the throttle body spring a lot. To get the cable housing to pass underneath the Freddy and actuate cleanly, I drilled out a plate to position the "forked" stop.The pretty stainless housing stop bracket on the firewall side is available through a member here on the Vendor Forum.http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77002-throttle-cable-setup-lockar-custom-bracket/I did have to modify the goofy stock throttle bracket that is actuated by the peddle. The arm connected to the peddle side of the cable was previously above the top of the shank. Using my bench vise and a Big F'ing Hammer I made it be what I wanted. I Also had to drill out the old stock ball that fixed to the old mechanical throttle linkage.If you need more detail or more detailed images let me know. My camera battery died while taking these.Oh yeah I threw in a pic of my radiator. To make the hoses fit better I had a radiator shop in Sacramento move the inlet over. It cost more ($100) and took longer than I expected so I am not sure I can recommend them, but the execution was great.Location of inlet before relocation.Bonk Edited November 18, 2015 by RB26powered74zcar Repaired broken link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvquattro Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Looks good! What did the throttle set up cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) Are you using that radiator out of a Datsun B210 or something similar? I tried one that looks almost identical to that on my first build and it failed horribly. Edit: looks like you cut and moved the inlet on a stock Z one. Edited June 5, 2011 by jakeoster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 Looks good! What did the throttle set up cost? With shipping I think it was just under $60 shipped. Its bling, but quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 Are you using that radiator out of a Datsun B210 or something similar? I tried one that looks almost identical to that on my first build and it failed horribly. Edit: looks like you cut and moved the inlet on a stock Z one. Your edit is correct. Its a replacement stock radiator. I had the radiator shop move the inlet over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Hopefully that radiator mod will work out for you. Isn't the return directly under that? It seems like that might not flow correctly with the inlet being right there. I don't think there will be enough resistance in the system for the whole radiator to be used most efficiently. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Motoman, That is a good observation and worth more than 2 cents. It will come down to how the fluid dynamics/gradients operate in the radiator. Fluid heated by the engine enters the radiator at the top. I think your question is will the heat gradient caused by the incoming fluid extend down to the outlet and affect the cooling potential of the the fluid leaving through the outlet. I don't know the answer. The after market radiators that others are commonly using for this application have similar external plumbing, in that the inlet and outlet are located on the passenger side of the radiator. The question then becomes, do those radiators have different internal plumbing that minimizes the influence of the heated fluid entering from the top. Hopefully others are following this thread and can respond to this question. Thanks Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) "I think your question is will the heat gradient caused by the incoming fluid extend down to the outlet and affect the cooling potential of the the fluid leaving through the outlet"(wrcbonk). That isn't what i had in mind, but that may be another problem. Yes many people that are doing RB swaps are using a radiator that has the in/out on the same side. Almost all of them are whats know as a double bypass radiator. Here's how they work. As you can see there is a plate in the end tank thus blocking the path of least resistance. If the plate wasn't there the coolant would completely pass the radiator core. Instead it would stay in the end tank, and flow out the outlet. As you can imagine that wouldn't do much good. However this has nothing to do with the topic on hand. As the flow on a double bypass radiator is from side to side and not top to bottom, like the radiator you have is. What i originally was trying to say was that by moving the inlet over a little bit you are changing the path of least resistance. Which means that the coolant might not pass through the entire core of the radiator. Therefore it isn't being used most efficiently. Tony D if you could chime in on this that would be great! Edited June 9, 2011 by motoman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Motoman, My radiator is simply a replacement 3-row radiator, I believe the PO bought it from MSA. Sounds like the modification I made may have compromised the functional design of the radiator. If I have heating issues (fans running all the time) I will know a likely culprit. Thanks Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Time will tell. Oh by the way i like your throttle cable idea looks clean. I was thinking of using the linkage like you did, but i think i might try and connect it to the pedal instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatDude Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Does anyone have any new leads on where to find that stainless firewall bracket for throttle cable coming from the linkage on the RB to S30 swap? The link on on here do doesn't work anymore. Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Does anyone have any new leads on where to find that stainless firewall bracket for throttle cable coming from the linkage on the RB to S30 swap? The link on on here do doesn't work anymore. Thanks for your help! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77002-throttle-cable-setup-lockar-custom-bracket/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizzurp Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I bought a cable that was nearly identical from jegs (their brand) for significantly cheaper than the lokar one. I ended up making my own bracket. Works like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatDude Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Thanks RB26powered74Zcar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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