Zerocell5688 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Hey there HBZ! I have a question for you gu-ru's of Turbo Z-dom! I'm converting my Stock N47/N42 L28E to a L28E+T and I've gotten almost all my P's and Q's squared away but now i'm to the last if not the greatest problem in the swap. How to deal with the oil for the turbine! My neighbor who's a crazy Diesel runnin redneck of-doom-and-terror said i should just get one of those sandwich spacers and run my oil in and out that way and there should be plenty of oil pressure for it to work out just fine. I'm suspect of this because I don't want my engine frying up and dying right away and be stuck dead in the water again, so here's what I propose. I bought a F54 oil pan with the drain tube on it but it doesn't fit my N42 bottom end AT ALL. If i follow this train of logic I must than punch a hole in my oil pan and weld in a new bung than route in that way yes? I'm looking for other options that are on the cheap side cause I'm broke and my goal is to be operational and ready to preform by June 25th when there's a drift competition out here and want to take the old skool goodness in and give them hell! So I guess i just need to heard some options and ideas that you guys may have. I know there are a few diff options but I think oiling systems haven't been beaten to death enough here so here we go again! So what have you guys done to get around this? External oil pump put after the turbo? Welding in your own bung? use the sandwich mount and just route it back in that way? I need Ideas and I know you guys have some of the best! Thanks ~J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Weld or braze a Bung into the side of the pan. You didn't mention an oil feed line, So you do have one of those set up for the turbo right?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Weld or braze a Bung into the side of the pan. You didn't mention an oil feed line, So you do have one of those set up for the turbo right?. and make sure it's above the oil level in the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I bought a F54 oil pan with the drain tube on it but it doesn't fit my N42 bottom end AT ALL. I don't get this part. What doesn't fit? The bolt patterns are all the same. I bolted a turbo pan up to my N42 block just fine. If you don't want to weld/braze, you can purchase an AN bulkhead fitting, nut and washers. Just drill the right size hole in the side of the pan and install the fitting. They ain't cheap though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 What the others said, but the turbo oil pan should fit no problem. What's not fitting about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerocell5688 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 The whole shape of the pan itself is different. maybe i'm trippin or something I'll take some pictures in the morning but it didn't bolt up right an the sump was at the wrong side I think. As far as feed lines are concerned I have some lines my friend had specifically for this turbo, Not sure whether to feed it from the Oil Pressure sending units plug or get one of those sandwich adapters I was talking about. I know the feed has to be over the pan and the drain has to be at or below the feed line at least. Thats why I was asking what would be the most efficient and cost effective solution to this problem? I figured welding the bung on might be best or threading my own pipe on the back i'm just looking for other solutions people have done in the past. I'll get those pictures up tomorrow so you'll know what I mean. Anyways guys thanks again an keep those ideas coming! ~J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 On the stock L28ET the oil feed line comes off a tee installed between the block and the oil pressure sender... Then there's a hard line back toward the firewall, around the back of the engine, to the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Get a factory feed and drain setup would be the cheapest option. If the bowl is at the wrong end of the pan and it came off an L28ET turn it around, you have it backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) Do not use a sandwich adapter. That kind of setup will blow the turbo seals. All the turbos I've seen are designed for low oil pressure. You want to feed it off the oil pressure sensor port with a restrictor before the turbo (ball bearing type, dunno about floating type), The return is literally just a drain back to the pan. Edited June 9, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) Do not use a sandwich adapter. That kind of setup will blow the turbo seals. All the turbos I've seen are designed for low oil pressure. You want to feed it off the oil pressure sensor port with a restrictor before the turbo. The return is literally just a drain back to the pan. I though the BB (ball bearing) type used a restrictor, the floating type (cheaper), used no restrictor, my floating bearing turbo runs fine ( no leaks or smoke) with no restrictor for a T off my oil pressure gauge. Nigel Edited June 9, 2011 by Noddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I though the BB (ball bearing) type used a restrictor, the floating type (cheaper), used no restrictor, my floating bearing turbo runs fine ( no leaks or smoke) with no restrictor for a T off my oil pressure gauge. Nigel Sorry, I don't want to lead anybody astray so I modified my statement above to be more specific. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerocell5688 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 So regardless right now I have to punch a hole in my Pan unless i'm able to get the Turbo pan installed somehow? hm... interesting situation.. Can you weld on the pan? It seems to be ferrous if I'm not mistaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 When I installed my drain, the pan welded perfectly. I used a steel pipe fitting from the local ace hardware. Welded it on, get the coresponding barb and your good to go. Be sure to weld the fitting above the oil level and to not get the galvinized fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 The whole shape of the pan itself is different. maybe i'm trippin or something I'll take some pictures in the morning but it didn't bolt up right an the sump was at the wrong side I think. As far as feed lines are concerned I have some lines my friend had specifically for this turbo, Not sure whether to feed it from the Oil Pressure sending units plug or get one of those sandwich adapters I was talking about. I know the feed has to be over the pan and the drain has to be at or below the feed line at least. Thats why I was asking what would be the most efficient and cost effective solution to this problem? I figured welding the bung on might be best or threading my own pipe on the back i'm just looking for other solutions people have done in the past. I'll get those pictures up tomorrow so you'll know what I mean. Anyways guys thanks again an keep those ideas coming! ~J Umm, are you trying to put the pan on backwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Maybe he has a maxima pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Maybe he has a maxima pan? With an oil return? I dunno maybe he picket up a rb pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 If you have pan and pickup on an L28 block, unless if was originally some JDM front sump thingamajig, it should go right on. I welded a 15mm fitting (I think) on my stock L28 pan to take the drainage. Worked for 40K+ miles to this point. No Issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 81 to 83 turbo engine use a rear sump pan. if you are switching from center to rear sump then you also need to change the oil pick up tube. The most simple way is to punch a hole in the pan with a big sharp rod and thread on a fitting, as this can be done with the pan on the engine and engine in the car. A lot of super charge kits add an oil return this way. Drill a 1/4 hole in the pan at the stock drain line position, get a 24 inch x 1/2" steel rod and sharpen the end with a grinder, I also had to drill a 1/2 hole in the lower control arm mounting plate to allow the rod to past. Hammer the rod in, coat a 1/4 inch npt tap with grease, tap the hole, clean off the grease in the hole, coat a 1/2" x 1/4 npt fitting with rtv and thread it in. tap for a 1/4 npt is 0.437" so don't knock the 1/2" rod all the way in. I prefer the rear sump pan because it allows the IC tube from the turbo to be run under the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerocell5688 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 81 to 83 turbo engine use a rear sump pan. if you are switching from center to rear sump then you also need to change the oil pick up tube. The most simple way is to punch a hole in the pan with a big sharp rod and thread on a fitting, as this can be done with the pan on the engine and engine in the car. A lot of super charge kits add an oil return this way. Drill a 1/4 hole in the pan at the stock drain line position, get a 24 inch x 1/2" steel rod and sharpen the end with a grinder, I also had to drill a 1/2 hole in the lower control arm mounting plate to allow the rod to past. Hammer the rod in, coat a 1/4 inch npt tap with grease, tap the hole, clean off the grease in the hole, coat a 1/2" x 1/4 npt fitting with rtv and thread it in. tap for a 1/4 npt is 0.437" so don't knock the 1/2" rod all the way in. I prefer the rear sump pan because it allows the IC tube from the turbo to be run under the oil pan. The pan on my motor now is the center sump and the turbo pan i bought is a rear sump. In theory i should be able to use it I just need the rear sump oil pickup tube if anyone has a spare laying around they can send my way. If not I just do what you said and punch the 1/2" hole and put the fitting in? Welding it would be the surest plan it seems like. Its an iron/steel/ferrous pan right so I can arc weld on it yes? Just checking Anyways thanks for the good Advise I'll see about what I can do about getting this together. Still waiting for my Turbine spacer but it should be awesome! I'm excited! ~J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 yes, just regular steel pan. welding would be best. Arch welding would be tough, as the metal is thin. punching and taping is for people who do not want to take off the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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