notheredave Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Yeah, Brian's pictures are a great reference. I think on mine (2->1 exhaust, muffler in stock location) there's room to make a battery box that mounts to the moustache bar/ rear diff holder bolts and to the bottom of the spare tire well (also stock gas tank). I'm hoping to finish up my exhaust this week, I'll post pictures if I get my battery mounted up thereabouts. Sounds great...I am on the fence about the exhaust and the tank setup...Do you have a 75 - 76 gas tank? Also I will have to wait till payday to do more...I am tacking up the motor mounts, transmount mounts, radiator brackets, and water neck/oil line adater parts (my way) and then taking them to a professional welder to be done right. Edited July 23, 2011 by notheredave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Nope, I've got a stock 78 tank. Get all your stuff together at one time, most local welders charge by the hour, 1 hr min. Cash motivates for smaller jobs though. ($60/hr last time I got some aluminum stuff done a few years back). There's not a ton to gain by going dual, besides the aesthetic appeal unless you're really trying to chase down every last HP. I'm running 2.5 off the stock manifolds and down past the transmission bringing them together with a neat 45° to straight 'Y' off a Chevy truck that exits 3". If I find out exactly what it came off I'll let you know, it's got the y, a nice stainless flex and then an output flange all in about 3'. Should be dirt cheap at a wrecking yard. For a single system, 3" is generally good to 300hp based on a couple of the exhaust mfg's sites. (flowmaster, magnaflow etc) Edited July 23, 2011 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the information I just spent the day with adjusting the motor for the steering rod (which I will be adding another joint) and the mounts...I had some angle iron that has one side wider than the other and when the (2) wide sides are butted up then appear to fit the Z's frame rails perfectly...All I need now is some flat iron...Also had to cut the water/oil adapter on the water side and remove some and reposition the water neck to clear the block and header. I'm taking a brake for an hour and then I will be working on the transmount. I think I will be doing the single exhaust after all. Or maybe I'll change my mind again and again and again!!! LOL Edited July 23, 2011 by notheredave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks for the information I just spent the day with adjusting the motor for the steering rod (which I will be adding another joint) and the mounts...I had some angle iron that has one side wider than the other and when the (2) wide sides are butted up then appear to fit the Z's frame rails perfectly...All I need now is some flat iron...Also had to cut the water/oil adapter on the water side and remove some and reposition the water neck to clear the block and header. I'm taking a brake for an hour and then I will be working on the transmount. I think I will be doing the single exhaust after all. Or maybe I'll change my mind again and again and again!!! LOL I think I have an solution to the steering and it's really cheap...you get an extra steering rod and a heim joint (~$8 to $12 on the internet or Ebay) Here is the thread where I found the solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90729-just-picked-up-my-first-v8-240z/ and here are a couple of pictures (attached) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) Glad to be of assistance The additional U-Joint that I used was this 5/8 weld in piece from Sweet Manufacturing: http://pitstopusa.com/i-5056027-sweet-steering-universal-joint-5-8-smooth-x-5-8-smooth.html I can't wait to see the 4.6L on the road. Edited July 26, 2011 by 74_5.0L_Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Glad to be of assistance The additional U-Joint that I used was this 5/8 weld in piece from Sweet Manufacturing: http://pitstopusa.com/i-5056027-sweet-steering-universal-joint-5-8-smooth-x-5-8-smooth.html I can't wait to see the 4.6L on the road. I was trying to position everything but it was'nt happening and I saw your solution... Thanks for the awesome info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 I think I have resolved the clutch problem (tremec tr3650's are cable driven). I did some research and spoke with Wilwood about using a pull type slave (part# 260-1333), a clutch master (part# 260-6764), and a brake master (part# 260-8556-P) for my Z32 front calipers and hugh 1" Vented rears with big pads. See attachments (including rear brakes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 (edited) Holy Zcar Batman! What is that crazy adapter you have running from the stock shifter location back 8"?? I've never seen one of those. Also, you may want to rotate your slave, so your bleeder is on top of the cylinder (otherwise you'll trap air in the top of the cylinder, unless you fill your system from the bottom and push the fluid to the master...) And, you can remove that chunk of cast iron on the back of the clutch release arm, I dug around on the Ford forums, lots of people removed it, and didn't notice it gone, although it's original intent was to add mass to the system to reduce NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Edited July 30, 2011 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Holy Zcar Batman! What is that crazy adapter you have running from the stock shifter location back 8"?? I've never seen one of those. Also, you may want to rotate your slave, so your bleeder is on top of the cylinder (otherwise you'll trap air in the top of the cylinder, unless you fill your system from the bottom and push the fluid to the master...) And, you can remove that chunk of cast iron on the back of the clutch release arm, I dug around on the Ford forums, lots of people removed it, and didn't notice it gone, although it's original intent was to add mass to the system to reduce NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). These (2) pictures are not mine...And I didn't even notice the shifter adater! I know that many Z swaps could use one. So here's the address (thread) http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=119856. I have a DOHC 4.6L (the one in the picture is a SOHC) with the same tranny and the shifter was off on mine by ~3" (had to notch the opening) I also added another picture that is his final setup Edited July 31, 2011 by notheredave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 PS I also added another picture that is his final setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Holy Zcar Batman! What is that crazy adapter you have running from the stock shifter location back 8"?? I've never seen one of those. Also, you may want to rotate your slave, so your bleeder is on top of the cylinder (otherwise you'll trap air in the top of the cylinder, unless you fill your system from the bottom and push the fluid to the master...) And, you can remove that chunk of cast iron on the back of the clutch release arm, I dug around on the Ford forums, lots of people removed it, and didn't notice it gone, although it's original intent was to add mass to the system to reduce NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Well it looks like I found an easier solution to the leaky fabricated shifter extention box...HURST 05-06-07 MUSTANG GT W TREMEC TKO SHIFTER 3915074 US $258.88 It says TKO but I am not sure that it won't fit the regular tremec T45, T5 or tr3650 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 I have decided to go with a VLSD and CV's...Which when I donate and get a PayPal account I will be putting these together. They are long nose R200 with Q45 joint on the inside and a Q45 or 300z z31 turbo joint on the outside and I make the shortened shafts. Please tell me what you think? I also included some cheezy orange and yellow photoshop pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I think sir, that you have entirely too much time on your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 I think sir, that you have entirely too much time on your hands. Yes I do...I got a big laugh for "entirely too much time on your hands" I just sold my Corolla GTS and now I have more money for the Z. Yes it's an addiction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 I think sir, that you have entirely too much time on your hands. Here are some pictures of the Trans mount (will work for T5, T45 and TR4650) I cut the flat sections, the center bridge and the water/oil adapter. I had the trans mount welded today...I also had the 3" flat iron cut for the motor mounts, trans mount bolt bracket pieces cut and I will be welding tomorrow. See pictures. PS the trans mount is upside down compared to the Ford Mustang setup. It'll support dual exhaust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Here are some pictures of the Trans mount (will work for T5, T45 and TR4650) I cut the flat sections, the center bridge and the water/oil adapter. I had the trans mount welded today...I also had the 3" flat iron cut for the motor mounts, trans mount bolt bracket pieces cut and I will be welding tomorrow. See pictures. PS the trans mount is upside down compared to the Ford Mustang setup. It'll support dual exhaust! OOOPS I didn't flip the part in the middle were the mount bolts to. Well I will have to cut up another trans crossmember and do it again. I'll post pictures later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 I've still got my stock mustang trans xmember, let me know if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 I've still got my stock mustang trans xmember, let me know if you need it. Thanks for the offer but I have a couple more...Also I don't know if I should post the brakes, suspension and more. Well here are some pictures...The brakes are my old setup that I never got to test I have moved to the Z32's on the fronts and vented rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Thanks for the offer but I have a couple more...Also I don't know if I should post the brakes, suspension and more. Well here are some pictures...The brakes are my old setup that I never got to test I have moved to the Z32's on the fronts and vented rears. I just put some info together...Hope it's helpful: Stock L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd = 523 lbs. My 4.6 aluminum DOHC complete 425 lbs w/ tremec 3650 5 speed 120 lbs. = 545 lbs. Big brake kit estimated (compaired some items and estimated others) 13.6 lbs more than stock. (Z32 aluminum calipers) My 240Z wt. Front 52.4% (1200 lbs.) rear 47.6% (1090 lbs.) = 2290 lbs. 240z wt. Front 52% (1164 lbs.) rear 48% (1074 lbs.) = 2238 lbs. z32 wt. Front 51.65% (1960 lbs) Rear 48.35% (1835 lbs) = 3795 lbs. Q45 wt. Front 57.20% (2310 lbs) Rear 42.8% (1728 lbs) = 4039 lbs. r180 wt. Longnose r180 - weight 60 lbs r200 wt. Longnose R200 - weight 76 lbs r200 wt. Shortnose R200 - weight 72 lbs r230 wt. Shortnose R230 - weight 114 lbs 240z 151hp My 240 290hp (stock 4.6 dohc) 295 lb·ft Torque 300zx 222hp 300zxtt 300hp q45 278 hp Power to Weight: 240z = 14.82:1 My 240z = 7.9:1 300zx = 17.1:1 300zxt = 12.65:1 q45 = 14.53:1 Ferrari 458 = 7:1 Ferrari 458 Italia Specifications: (To keep things in perspective) Base engine size: 4.5 L Cam type: Double overhead cam (DOHC) Cylinders: V8 Valves: 32 Valve timing: Variable Direct injection Torque: 398 ft-lbs. @ 6000 rpm Horsepower: 562 hp @ 9000 rpm Gross weight: 3935 lbs. top speed is 202 mph 0 to 62 mph in less than 3.4 seconds 17.68 mpg (U.S.) EPA tested 10 mpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 I think I have an solution to the steering and it's really cheap...you get an extra steering rod and a heim joint (~$8 to $12 on the internet or Ebay) Here is the thread where I found the solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90729-just-picked-up-my-first-v8-240z/ and here are a couple of pictures (attached) Here is another option that I found on a Nissan Pathfinder and then found these pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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