Posted 21 September 2011 - 03:49 PM
I think the tank you have should be adequate the way it is.
391rwhp 307wtq (pump gas)
Posted 22 September 2011 - 10:18 AM
With the fuel cell itll just be
Cell to walbro pump to rail then return
With surge tank
Oem tank to low pressure pump to surge tank to walbro to rail, then return
So im really leaning toward cell, I hate the fact itll be in car but maybe ill tamper with the spare well...maybe
Posted 23 September 2011 - 11:07 PM
391rwhp 307wtq (pump gas)
Posted 24 September 2011 - 12:45 AM
Do I really need to do that? or no, it'll still need a sump huh?
That is probably the best route huh..well cheapest most cost effective route
Posted 24 September 2011 - 11:31 PM
If you trust the tank you have then there's no need to worry.
I had my tank boiled out so I could modify my 240z tank. That way it wouldn't blow up on me when we welded it. Then I took it back to the radiator shop and he pressure checked the tank to make sure there weren't any leaks. After that was verified he coated the inside with a special coating (not sure what it was exactly but it felt like a jelly solution) to seal everything up nicely.
391rwhp 307wtq (pump gas)
Posted 25 September 2011 - 12:34 AM
Posted 01 June 2014 - 11:58 AM
That's my build, so PM me if you have any questions regarding... I'm a few weeks from being road worthy if I'm lucky. But, I still have a ton more to do to get where I want upgrade wise.
There are a lot of ways to save money, most by doing it yourself, but there is a heck of a lot of research out there to do to pull it off nicely. Also, if you only want to remain at stock SR20DET hp, there isn't much to do, but it's a heck of a lot easier building up things for later now that doing it later when it's all in. I did a lot of stuff I wanted to do for the heck of it and to clean things up visually that you don't have to do, but it's sure nice to have the battery under the back, with a nice shaved outside and a really clean engine bay.
If you want to run more than stock HP someday, I'd look at the fuel situation and at least run better lines and a surge tank off the main (There are a ton of threads that talk about that setup). I found it cleaner and easier to just cut the rear out, lay in a cell, and have at it with new lines and fun. It was easy enough and will get me to 400 easy if I ever want to go there.
The things you don't think of are endless - Radiators and Fans, Controller for Fans, FMIC, FMIC piping and the custom work there, Mounts, Shaft, Throttle Cable Mods, Rear Diff for the future. Plus, almost any SR20 should be redone with new seals, new hoses, and a good run through...
This is my favorite thread in that regard:
If you want the car to look pretty as well, heck, it's a whole bunch more money too.
Just slapping in a SR20 and doing the bare minimum is possible though and cheaper, but 5k seems like a decent and reasonable estimate for the basics.
Did you sell this Z? I thought I saw it pop on the facebook group called Datsun parts and needs. If that was indeed your z that I saw, the guy who bought it had it crushed because of the bad chassis
Posted 14 August 2014 - 05:24 PM
I'm the MattK brother mentioned earlier and will say that spending $750 on the radiator kit by Vildini is definitely higher than needed to get good cooling. I paid about $175 from Jegs for a generic Chevy aluminum radiator and $40 for a used Ford Thunderbird 18" 2 speed electric fan (comes with built-in shroud) plus $100+ for the Jags That Run mounting kit. I've never had to use the high speed part of the fan yet and rarely use the low speed (only for A/C and sitting in traffic). The radiator fits just inside the ZX frame rails nicely and the SR gives the depth of the fan room plus some to spare. You may have to pick how you want to run the electricity for the fans, but I wired mine through a hard toggle and a relay. I have high speed through a solenoid but it doesn't get enough juice yet through the switch to magnetize the contact. I might just undo that high speed circuit since I've never needed it anyways. I'm also running this fan through the 3 row chevy alum radiator, ZX condenser and 3" generic intercooler. I think that shrouded fan and front MSA airdam have a lot to do with the air cooling.
I used a local driveshaft shop to custom build what I wanted and still came under the Vildini price by about $100. They used common HD spicer u-joints that can be serviced and easily replaced later if needed too.
I have nothing to offer on the fuel tank issue. I'm in a ZX and just replace the factory fuel pump with a Walbro 255 external. It's been running fine for over 7 years now mostly daily driving so I don't trash talk those (or I got lucky?).
2006 Buick Rendezvous family hauler
1979 Fairlady 280ZX 2+2 SR20DET daily driver/SCCA cone crusher
1969 2000 Roadster future project
Posted 15 August 2014 - 09:12 AM
I built mine about 10 years ago. It was one of the first so there was a lot of trial and error for me. The first thing I would do contrary to what everyone says is to buy a standalone ecu. I tried the Enthalpy tune with a Z32 maf repeatedly. I tried the Apexi PowerFC LJetro. I finally went with the Power FC DJetro. It is amazing. If I change turbos or have a boost leak, the car runs fine. If I don't start the car for a year, it starts up and runs fine. I recently got it back out after barning it for 5 years.
If you look on here, you will find cheaper ways to build. I used an 84 camaro radiator iirc and a flexalite black magic fan. Both work perfectly. Cooling is important. I also louvered my hood.
The amount you spend is up to you. Most machine shops will shorten and balance a driveshaft for $75. LSD rear ends get expensive. Most items are junk yard sourceable. My first build was a 355 sbc 260Z.
My main suggestion is that if you want a reliable daily driver, get a standalone. I think you can still get the discontinued PowerFC DJetro.
My 280Z is my daily driver again. It has around 400rwhp as I drive it daily on 21 lbs of boost. It averages 33 mpg. At 2480 lbs, I think it will outrun almost any daily driver. Pretty bulletproof setup.
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