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Fiberglass door panels w/speaker holes

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Rayven14    10

Joe,

 

Nope, not at all. Fiberglass is very very very strong! so there is no need to reinforce the speaker ring itself. Those little clips that come with your speakers will be more than enough to support the speaker. Once I get the other molds done Ill snap a picture of myself standing on top the the door panel right where the speaker mount is .... I go between 210- and 225 at my heaviest and I can stand on these things with no problem at ALL!!!

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Rayven14    10

ZTR, I will cut the speaker hole opening, thats a pretty standard size - I went to a local stereo shop the first time I made panels for my 510 and I noted that your everyday sony speaker was the same size mounting diameter as your high end Nakamichi. So I'll cut that hole as well as the door pull hole...those are all in the same location so thats not a big deal.

 

As far as drilling for the push pins, I know I drilled out quite a few before shipping in the past, but that was when I had a half of a door that I could clamp the panel to so the holes lined up perfect for the end user. I dont have that door anymore but the panels themselves are opaque so you can drill them out according to your own application

 

Rags, it wont be a big deal to drill em out... once you get the top metal part bonded to the lower fiberglass part... it all kinda lines up and you can just drill em out with your cordless

 

Nelsonian, Thank you! I appreciate positive feedback and it means alot to me that I am able to produce a quality product. Im gonna have to find that link for those pins.... hold on a minute ...or two.

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Rayven14    10

Good news!!! and kinda sorta bad news.

 

Ok so the pins for attaching the door panels are in fact a GM bumper clip/pin/fastener. I cant locate any info on the guy I purchased them from but I do have a few dozen laying around here and there. So after a little searching I came up with this:

 

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=13&search=gm&show=45&page=1&cat=151

 

It the fourth row dead center.

 

So the pins are 1 3/4 long with a 5/16th diameter pin and a 3/4 head. They completely replace the old hook style pins that came with the car and are much easier to install IMO. So once you get everything lined up, drill out new (say 7/16th holes) install your new pins (you may wanna tape them in place so the upholstery guy doesnt lose em) get em covered and pop em in place. These pins are far superior to anything that came from the factory... Trust me!!!!

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Rayven14    10

Ok I need help with some measurements, apparently I forgot to measure the hole for the door pull. So from the front (flat area) of the door I need to know the measurements for the door pull... and from the bottom of the door ... basically I need precise measurements as to where to cut the hole.

 

In addition, I need to know the location of the window crank.... ya know, a measurement from the bottom of the door and the front of the door... kinda of an x marks the spot kinda thing.

 

I also need to know the height of the window crank as Im starting these panels from scratch and dont want to make a panel that doesnt clear the power window pulley.

 

Thank folks

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ZT-R    17

for the window crank i got 10 3/4" in from the front and 9 3/4" up from the bottom. BUT THIS WAS OFF THE DOOR ITSELF, NOT THE PANNEL. I would rather someone with a panel chime in.

Edited by ZT-R

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billseph    1

I got you some measurements...I triple checked these on both passenger and driver door and had only about + or - 1/32" variation...so pretty tight between the two panels.

 

Door panel to front of latch hole...13 3/16"

 

Door panel to bottom of latch hole... 1 5/8"

 

Door panel to FRONT of regulator...10 5/16"

 

Door panel to BOTTOM of regulator...9 5/16"

 

Door latch hole is 3 3/8" wide by 2 1/8" tall

 

Window regulator is approx. 7/16" diameter

Note that the hole in the panel for the regulator is about twice that diameter (3/4" hole should leave enough wiggle room for variances in panel placement.

 

Also note the regulator measurements are to the FRONT and BOTTOM of the knob...to find the location to center the hole you'll drill please add half of the 7/16" diameter to these measurements.

(Should be 10 17/32" from front of panel and 9 17/32" from bottom of panel for the CENTER of the regulator knob. And about a 3/4" hole.)

 

I hope this is precise enough. If you need any more measurements I can take them.

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RebekahsZ    106

Rayven14, I'm following this thread, but I'm confused. Are you going to sell both versions: with speakers and without speakers? If so, I want to get on board with the no-speakers list. I tried to PM you so as to not upset the flow of the thread, but your address was blocked. Please PM me with response with a reply address, or if you prefer, I can just work from this forum thread.

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Rayven14    10

Bill seph,

 

Great info,.. thaank you. Now I need one more measurement... I know I know. How tall/proud is the window regulator gear. The use of a straight edge should give you a pretty accurate measurement. However, also take into consideration where the panel is mounted. Does that make sense? Pics would be great also.

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Rayven14    10

Anyone local to the San Francisco area? preferably San Jose, I wanna make sure I get all the clearance issues taken care of before I actually make the mold for the "Speaker Door Panel"

 

Also, I made 5 sets of the "Factory" door panels. The one pictured is shipping today, another is being cut up and frankensteined back together with the speaker pod and I have three others for sale.

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post-1755-058383700 1317922601_thumb.jpg

post-1755-030361600 1317922615_thumb.jpg

post-1755-067781100 1317922633_thumb.jpg

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Rayven14    10

Okie dokei folks,... finally started the second mold for the "Speaker Door Panels" got the pod bonded into place. I'll let it cook over night and start foaming and sanding a basic shape tommorrow and with any luck I should have a viable mold sometime next week..?

 

More to come next week!!!

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post-1755-058971700 1318192661_thumb.jpg

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