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GOTHALOSISM

toggle switch for turn signals?

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Sure...why not. I would think a 3-position toggle would work -- you'd need the style that gives you two "ON" positions and one "OFF" position in the center. Something like this should work fine:

 

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=79483988&PMPXNO=24096938&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

 

Should be able to use your existing wiring on the steering column (and existing relays) provided it's all in good shape. I doubt this setup would pass a state safety inspection, but that may not be an issue for your particular situation.

 

Unless you use the hazards often, I wouldn't even bother messing with them (which would definitely fail state inspection). I can't remember the last time I used my hazard signal.

 

Good luck and happy motoring!

r/John

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No, this won't work at all, unless you are going to rewire much of the car. A simple DPDT center off switch dosn't have anything like the number of poles you would need, nor does it have any possibility of recreating the switching logic of the original. I took a quick look at the wiring diagram I have, and it would take something like 13 poles to recreate the switch (just for the turn signals), and probably more when you start to do the logic.

 

For example, I set out to replace the emergency flasher switch, which you'd think could be a DPDT. It wasn't. Take a look at the eventual solution here for a preview of what you would have to do to "replace" that switch. Scroll down to posts 18, 19, and especially 20 (open the PDFs in 19 & 20). It took 15 connections worth of switching to do, and is much simpler than the combination switch.

 

I don't want to discourage you, it can be done, but you will have to do some circuit design. It won't be a half-hour project.

Edited by Oddjob

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I worked out a similar solution as OddJob but using relays and a simpler switch. I did not include the 4-way flasher. The wiring diagram for my solution is attached. This diagram is a complete re-wire for our race car so there is no heater, wipers, horn, etc. You could use only the parts for the turn-signals. The diodes are for isolating parts of the car circuitry from a tow vehicle. Simply omit them if not needed.

 

The problem on the early models is the use of the same bulb for brake and turn-signal function. There is a separate switch contact for the left rear, right rear, and front.

 

It is possible in the later models with separate turn-signal bulbs the switch is less complicated but I have not studied it.

 

Large file, sorry.

 

NEW WIRING DIAGRAM.bmp

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Sorry guys, but I'm confused. The wiring at the turn signal switch is a simple 3-prong plug. When the switch is in one position, it completes the circuit for the left signal; and in the other position, completes the circuit for the right signal....true?

 

Why can't this functionality be replicated by replacing the turn signal stalk switch with a 3-way toggle switch? Wouldn't the rest of the wiring in the system remain "as-is"? (Again, this solution assumes that the problem lies solely within the switch, and that all of the system wiring is good and can be used as-is.)

 

Again, my apologies if I'm over-simplifying the problem...electrical issues are my weakest area.

r/John

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Sorry guys, but I'm confused. The wiring at the turn signal switch is a simple 3-prong plug. When the switch is in one position, it completes the circuit for the left signal; and in the other position, completes the circuit for the right signal....true?

 

Why can't this functionality be replicated by replacing the turn signal stalk switch with a 3-way toggle switch? Wouldn't the rest of the wiring in the system remain "as-is"? (Again, this solution assumes that the problem lies solely within the switch, and that all of the system wiring is good and can be used as-is.)

 

Again, my apologies if I'm over-simplifying the problem...electrical issues are my weakest area.

r/John

 

IF Skittle is talking about his '76 Z, I'm with you. The '74 - '76 Z's have a simple 3-wire switch (which I have taken apart on my 260 five times in the last 9 months, sigh...) and you don't need to fuss with the Hazard Switch at all. Each time I've repaired mine lately, I've contemplated tossing the original switch and finding a reliable replacement.

 

The Turn Signal Switch on the '73 and earlier Z is much different...

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Sorry guys, but I'm confused. The wiring at the turn signal switch is a simple 3-prong plug. When the switch is in one position, it completes the circuit for the left signal; and in the other position, completes the circuit for the right signal....true?

 

Why can't this functionality be replicated by replacing the turn signal stalk switch with a 3-way toggle switch? Wouldn't the rest of the wiring in the system remain "as-is"? (Again, this solution assumes that the problem lies solely within the switch, and that all of the system wiring is good and can be used as-is.)

 

Again, my apologies if I'm over-simplifying the problem...electrical issues are my weakest area.

r/John

 

Umm... you haven't said what year your Z is. The switch has changed over time. My remarks above are specific to the early Z (mine is a '71). Sorry for jumping to the conclusion yours was, as well....

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I'm using a "Ron Francis Wiring" toggle turn signal switch. Worked fine in an initial test, but I'll have to remember to switch it off after making a turn.

It's a six terminal affair and they've got a wiring schematic for it on their site.

Steve

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