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A One Inch Diameter Brake Master Cylinder for the S30 Z Cars

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piston    10

Miles, did you reinstall the check valves into your wilwood? Keep us inform. I am doing my install tomorrow and would hate to take off the mc again to reinstall the check valves if I have crappy pedal feel. I am in my 3rd mc. 2 of the 15/16 280zx and now going wilwood 1" mc. 15/16 are just not holding pressure for me for some reason even rebuild units from local auto parts stores.

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kj280z    1

Yep, both are in place and have caused no problems.

Same here - I left both check valves in place - works fine - I have Toyota calipers and vented rotors in the front and the 240sx calipers with 300zx rotors in the rear. Also used the 10 inch 280z 2+2 booster. I made custom lines with the different threads on both sides... easy!

Edited by kj280z

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Miles    32

Miles, did you reinstall the check valves into your wilwood? Keep us inform. I am doing my install tomorrow and would hate to take off the mc again to reinstall the check valves if I have crappy pedal feel. I am in my 3rd mc. 2 of the 15/16 280zx and now going wilwood 1" mc. 15/16 are just not holding pressure for me for some reason even rebuild units from local auto parts stores.

 

I plan on reinstalling the check valves this weekend. I'll post the results later.

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piston    10

Forgot to mention my flare ends are pretty much doomed now and leaking so I will have to replace that soon as it has a very minor leak. I am considering reinstalling the check valves from the 280zx mc since they look identical and my wilwood only came with rear check valve.

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ramblinon9    10

Just a quick little note to anyone thinking about doing this. The "plugs" as they call them/outlet fittings for the MC that were referred to in the original post are no longer available through courtesy parts. Or anywhere else that I called. So like most people have done posting on this it is probably easiest to make new lines with 3/8's fittings one end and 10 mm on the other to make this work. Only costs an extra 10 bucks total. I will be finishing this hopefully this weekend! Thanks a lot!

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Miles    32

Just a quick little note to anyone thinking about doing this. The "plugs" as they call them/outlet fittings for the MC that were referred to in the original post are no longer available through courtesy parts. Or anywhere else that I called. So like most people have done posting on this it is probably easiest to make new lines with 3/8's fittings one end and 10 mm on the other to make this work. Only costs an extra 10 bucks total. I will be finishing this hopefully this weekend! Thanks a lot!

 

 

You don't need to do that. Remove the outlet port fittings from the Wilwood 1 inch MC and replace them with outlet port fittings from a 72-78 240Z/280Z or a 79-81 280ZX. This will provide the 10mm connection to the hardlines. In my case I removed those fittings from the 1979 280ZX MC that had failed in my 240Z and installed them in the Wilwood MC. Keeps it simple.

 

 

Also, see post 3 above.

 

 

Other info: My 280ZX MC had check valves in the front and rear outlet ports. I moved them over to the Wilwood MC outlet ports. My brakes don't drag.

Edited by Miles

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ramblinon9    10

You don't need to do that. Remove the outlet port fittings from the Wilwood 1 inch MC and replace them with outlet port fittings from a 240Z/280Z/280ZX. This will provide the 10mm connection to the hardlines. In my case I removed those fittings from the 280ZX MC that had failed in my 240Z and installed them in the Wilwood MC. Keeps it simple.

 

 

Also, see post 3 above.

 

 

Other info: My 280ZX MC had check valves in the front and rear outlet ports. I moved them over to the Wilwood MC outlet ports. My brakes don't drag.

 

 

Hmm, according to the original post that not all the outlet fittings from every single car will fit into the wilwood MC. I have also found this to be true, first with my 240z's MC fittings being totally different. And then again with my 280z's MC fittings which looks to be an aftermarket replacement. So I'm not sure where you are coming from when you say any S30/S130 MC outlet fittings will fit. And as for the check valves are concerned I plan on leaving the factory Wilwood's in and seeing how it goes.

 

Plus one of my fittings was rounded from previous owner repairs so it just made sense to me to do it this way.

 

Just sharing what I ran into for anyone else who might be interested in doing the swap...

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Miles    32

Hmm, according to the original post that not all the outlet fittings from every single car will fit into the wilwood MC. I have also found this to be true, first with my 240z's MC fittings being totally different. And then again with my 280z's MC fittings which looks to be an aftermarket replacement. So I'm not sure where you are coming from when you say any S30/S130 MC outlet fittings will fit. And as for the check valves are concerned I plan on leaving the factory Wilwood's in and seeing how it goes.

 

Plus one of my fittings was rounded from previous owner repairs so it just made sense to me to do it this way.

 

Just sharing what I ran into for anyone else who might be interested in doing the swap...

 

 

Yes per the original post the fittings from a 71 240Z will not interchange with the Wilwood MC. I corrected my post to show that the 72-78 MC fittings are interchangable as well as fittings from the 79-81 280ZX MC (the fittings I used).

 

Thanks for pointing that out.

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piston    10

The fittings will fit from the 15/16 master cylinder to the wilwood! I almost want to say and z fittings will fit into the wilwood master cylinder for f and r lines. I did not reinstall my check valves and left them off. After a few miles driving my brake pedal is now stiffer and feels great! Weird but I guess minor bubbles made its way out or up? Who knows, it feels great now minus check valves.

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Miles    32

The push rod length must be adjusted. If it is too short you will have a long pedal that grabs near the bottom of its' travel. If the the push rod is too long, it will not allow the piston in the MC to return to the position where fluid can flow back into the MC. This will cause your brakes to lock up after a few stops. Adjusting the pedal inside the car will not help.

Edited by Miles

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alainburon    3

The push rod length must be adjusted. If it is too short you will have a long pedal that grabs near the bottom of its' travel. If the the push rod is too long, it will not allow the piston in the MC to return to the position where fluid can flow back into the MC. This will cause your brakes to lock up after a few stops. Adjusting the pedal inside the car will not help.

 

My push rod is not adjustable for some odd reason and it's about 4mm too short. I'm thinking about taking the spacer between the master cylinder and the booster and have it milled to make up the difference. I would replace the booster but it's brand new and I had it powder coated already. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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Miles    32

My push rod is not adjustable for some odd reason and it's about 4mm too short. I'm thinking about taking the spacer between the master cylinder and the booster and have it milled to make up the difference. I would replace the booster but it's brand new and I had it powder coated already. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

It is going to turn into a kluge. Just go back to a 280Z booster and sell the 280ZX booster.

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RebekahsZ    106

It may be more work, but try installing it and just giving it a try. My pushrod needs to be adjusted, but I don't have time, so I just have a low pedal (but I still have enough). Nice thing is that it puts the pedal at a great height for toe-heeling. One thing I would suggest is to modify your lines to allow you to run flexible lines at the master cylinder. That will let you remove the master to adjust the rod later without having to bleed brakes after every adjustment. Maybe I'll get mine adjusted this winter.

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Miles    32

You can move the MC while it is attached to the hardlines. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC off of the booster and move it toward the fender so you can acess the push rod for adjustment and/or check if the reaction disk is in place.

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alainburon    3

It is going to turn into a kluge. Just go back to a 280Z booster and sell the 280ZX booster.

 

 

You maybe right but I think I'm going to need the larger booster since I'm running the larger master cylinder and Wilwoods front and rear. It should not be that bad, I have determined that I will have to shave 2.8 mm from the spacer to give me a 3 mm clerance. That should not be a big deal, a local machine shop should be able to handle that with no problems.

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alainburon    3

It may be more work, but try installing it and just giving it a try. My pushrod needs to be adjusted, but I don't have time, so I just have a low pedal (but I still have enough). Nice thing is that it puts the pedal at a great height for toe-heeling. One thing I would suggest is to modify your lines to allow you to run flexible lines at the master cylinder. That will let you remove the master to adjust the rod later without having to bleed brakes after every adjustment. Maybe I'll get mine adjusted this winter.

 

 

I just don't want to take a chance to get on the throtle and not be able to stop. This car will have over 800 hp by the time I'm done with it and brakes will be needed to slow it down if I ever get traction...:)

I am using the flexible braided lines like you mentioned from the master cylinder to the distribution block on the firewall. I will post some pictures on my thread soon of the progress.

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DuoWing    10

Well I'm getting ready to do this and for the life of me I can't really figure out doing it the measurement way so I found a push rod depth gauge here: http://www.classicperform.com/Store2/Tools.htm Costs about $30 with shipping. I figure I'll grab this since I don't have any very accurate measuring devices either and they say this is the best tool for adjustment.

Edited by DuoWing

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Dan_Austin    10

I am sure it is a fine and dandy tool.  I used a business card with a small Phillips

screwdriver poked through it and a carpenters tape measure.  I rested the

screwdriver in the old MC, slide the card up to the end of the MC, grasped the

shaft(no pun intended) so the card was not deformed and could not move and

recorded the length from the card to the tip of the screwdriver, repeat on the

new MC and being a cheap bastard, re-use the business card to be a straight

edge to measure the pushrod protrusion from the booster.

 

My 76 needed a 1/8" adjustment (3mm), which I am sure I saw earlier in this

thread, so I was comfortable with accuracy tools available to me.

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DuoWing    10

For anyone wondering my Tokico replacement Brake Master that was in my car was not compatible with the Wilwood so I had to go the route of forming new brake lines. Anyway my measurements for anyone interested fell inline with what Dan_Austin said. I found from the very top of the cylinder bore to the bottom using the push rod that came with the new master for measurement at 28mm. The measurement A I found to be about 15mm. My pushrod stuck out 10mm. So I ended up needing to adjust it out about 3mm. Also for anyone needing help with adjustment I had a person sit in the driver's seat and hold the brake pedal down so the pushrod stuck out nice and far and I could put some vice grips on the lock nut and use a 7mm box wrench to adjust it. I'll probably double check once I get the depth tool, but I feel like this should be good. Now to bleed everything and hope for no leaks...

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m1ghtymaxXx    11

Figured I'd chime in, my 77 mastercylinder wouldn't adjust, but it just seemed the rounded end was seized onto the thread shaft. I struggled for a while with vice grips on the threads but never got it to budge. My measurements showed it was just barely within spec, and I haven't had any issues with it on street.

 

I should poing out I'm also using the 1" mc with all stock brakes, and I've found the feel to be just fine, though I the car came with a rotten MC, so I have no idea what the brakes were supposed to feel like. The heavy pedal just matches the heaving steering to me.

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RebekahsZ    106

JUST finished bleeding brakes from a leaking wheel cylinder, was lowering the hood from doing the job and what did I see?  Some paint peeling on the booster right below my master cylinder.  Looks like my 3rd rebuilt master cylinder is leaking!  Argh!  I just can't get a break.  I was just thinking about adjusting the push rod when I got home from the weekend's racing.  Hope the darn thing doesn't fail suddenly (looks like it has been leaking for a while) cause I'm going racing anyway, but I'm gonna order the Wilwood 1" kit when I get home.  Did I mention that I suck at brake work?  Anyway, how is the Wilwood master holding up for all of you?  I don't need a bigger MC-I just need one that will last for a few years instead of needing replacement almost annually.  I friggin' hate cleaning all that goo out of the booster.....

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