palosfv3 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Please take the time to do proper research and know the correct information on a repair procedure or process before suggesting to others its OK to do it this way. Installing a new rear rail extension over the original is just creating a situation where the new rail will cause accelerated rusting of the new part and the adjacent areas it attaches to. The proper way of installing the rail is to remove the seats and carpets , locate the spot welds that hold the rail to the floor pan ( you will have to remove the sound deadening pads to find them) , drill out the spot weld from above with a spot weld removal tool ( Blair makes one that is inexpensive and available at most PBE stores), . There will be 4 to 6 spot welds you will need to cut where the rear rail meets the end of the front rail ,. Be carefull to only drill through the outer rail with the SWR as you will need the rear of the rail without any holes. Now you can clean all rust and undercoating from around the area and flanges. Drill 10mm holes in the same location of the removed spot welds on the lower front of the new rear rail extension where it attaches to the front rail. Paint all bare metal areas with a zinc based etching primer except for a small area at each spot weld hole . These spaces should be covered with a weld thru primer and should be directly in line with each drilled hole. Once proper fit and materials are applied its simply a matter of plug welding each hole. Make sure all metal is tightly fitted at each weld and is clean so the weld will not be contaminated by rust undercoating and such. There are other threads on here that may show the process in detail. I thought I had pics but the ones I have are not showing the area in question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhansen Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) Does anybody know how much the bad dag parts frame connectors for a 240z cost? I went to the website, it looks like the fronts are sold each (two per car) and the rears are sold as a pair (one per car). This totals $315.00 per car. Edited March 16, 2012 by bhansen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Looks like the prices went up a little with the price of steel, but that sounds right. Please take the time to do proper research and know the correct information on a repair procedure or process before suggesting to others its OK to do it this way. Installing a new rear rail extension over the original is just creating a situation where the new rail will cause accelerated rusting of the new part and the adjacent areas it attaches to. I know this is an old comment but I'm pretty sure that if your rails were in decent shape you'd be OK to leave them, especially if this is for chassis stiffening on a clean car rather than a rust repair. I know more than a few members on here who have done just that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Just because someone has done it doesnt make it ok. It will fail. A properly executed hat channel would not have two pieces laid inside each other . Doing a replacement as suggested creates a corrosion hot spot and would not add any significant structural stiffness or torsional rigidity to the body. If this is such a good way of doing things why dont we see the auto manufacturors use this type of doubled up panel as part of their build process ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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