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240Z - Snailed style


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  • 1 month later...

I have been working on the front of the car lately. Mostly getting the rails tied into the upper parts of the engine bay along with reinforcing the bottom of the door hinge pillar so I can get that tied in across the foot box area. I'll get some pictures up soon of this. Once I'm done here, it's time to position the engine & transmission and build or modify the tunnel.

 

It seemed like a good time to order some motivational parts so I picked out the turbo I want and two Tial MVS wastegates. The turbo is a Borg Warner Airwerks S200SX. The 76mm extended tip compressor flows 60lbs/min. in this 4" inlet housing. The turbine is cast inconel wheel in a 1.22a/r twinscroll housing. This will go on a divided manifold and should spool at least as good as a small GT30R but make more power...and it's a journal bearing chra so there are no coolant lines. I want it to look nice, so less plumbing is always good.

 

I'm thinking about making the manifold with 1.4" ID runners instead of the usual 1.7" to promote fast response.  I want lots of area under the curve so it feels fast without completly wringing the engine out all the time.

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Thanks guys!

 

     So those cheap steel hubs I was looking at, the MBM ones, are about 6.5lbs EACH. That is a pile of unsprung weight.  I got a good, used RX7 hub for about $30, which is aluminum and closer to 3.5 lbs including studs and bearing races (the MBM had neither installed). The inner bearing is a little bigger than the Mustang one, which is nice for durability. So my idea was to fit a slightly larger OD outer bearing by turning about .020" off the ID of the hub and pressing in a new race and then making a sleeve to adapt the large RX7 bearing to the Mustang spindle. But this didn't work out, the distance between the inner edges of the bearings is too close together on the RX7 hubs. I guess in a way I just don't like the idea of using off the shelf Wilwood hubs, and I'm cheap (see rear suspension). Like the spindles, they sort of make the best, reasonably price option and at 3.1 lbs bare, they are as light and a lot stronger than any OEM hubs I could adapt. And it will save me a lot of time messing with bearings...so, I'm going the boring route and just ordering hubs I think.

 

   Here are couple more shots of the front. I used a little piece of 16g to reinforce where the upper rail meets the 1" tubing. I put a little drain hole to get rid of any moisture that might collect from the fresh air ducts. You can also see the very small patch on the bottom of the inner fender.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally made some time to work on this. I got the large patch piece on the inner fender welded in on top and tacked to the rail. I'm leaving the center section unwelded because I think I'll probably remove or reshape the strut towers once I get the front suspension fabricated and installed.

 

I used a torch and scraped a lot of undercoating off the top and bottom of the former battery tray area to see how I far I need to go with my patching there. I had drilled out the spot welds and removed the tray a while ago so it was pretty easy to see where the rusted metal was once the tar was scraped off.  I'm going to have to split two seams here to get to the rust I can see. I have no doubt that I'll find more than I can see from the outside...

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It's freezing outside and I had the day off so I put a few hours into the 240. I got all the ugly metal cut out and fabricated a patch for the firewall. I wish I had the engine mounted already because the tunnel was in my way the whole time and I may end up removing it anyway. The panel stayed pretty straight and it's TIG welded so I probably only have ten to fifteen minutes dressing the weld and metal finishing it...and about three hours getting it to that point haha

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Very nice job on the metal work, awesome build

Thanks so much for the encouragement.

 

So I got the battery tray patch made and welded in today. I made it out of one piece and the amount of shrinking was a little excessive on one corner but overall it wasn't a bad piece to make. It's not exactly original. I took out that weird little jog where it meets the firewall because it was easier and I think it looks better being smooth. I snapped a bunch of pictures too in case anyone wants to see one way to do it.

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About the turbo,  I was wondering if there was a method behind the madness?  Madness being the 1.22 a/r...  I was always under the impression that a bigger compressor/ smaller exhaust side promoted faster spool response.  That t4 hot side looks massive compared to the compressor.  Will you be using a quick spool valve?  Amazing fabrication btw.  I look forward to seeing the progression!

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Thanks guys

 

Yeah, generally bigger turbos will come on later and make more power...the turbine a/r doesn't really tell you anything though. You could have a 1.22 a/r housing maxing out at 250hp or 1500hp.Mine just looks so big because it's twin scroll, they are just fatter because the volute has a divider down the middle. Also I got the 4" inlet port shrouded inlet on the compressor cover which only comes as a compact housing, making the turbine look even bigger.

 

The manifold runner volume does have some influence on boost response but I think it might limit flow if I ever want to put a big boy turbo on it (I won't be surprised if I buy I 2jz block and build it as soon as I get this thing on the road) we'll see. No quick spool valve, this will be a divided manifold.

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