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Z31 Axle Swap R200 CLSD - M2 Differentials

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EF Ian    10

This is how it is stock:

I just took apart my stock 300zxt axles yesterday. Driver side 15 3/8". Passenger side 15 13/16". Longer input shaft goes to longer passenger axle. Shorter input shaft goes to shorter driver side axle.

 

Per M2 instructions:

I'm to use M2 axle measured at 14 13/16" with short input shaft on the driver side. Then use 15 3/8" axle with longer input shaft on the passenger side.

 

 

As for reversing the cage, I don't have much to say about that. I've seen people do it and grind down the end of the axle. But that's as far as I've read about it.

 

Thanks, no binding with this setup then?

 

 

 

 

If you have the right length axles, reversing the cage doesn't do anything for you. Lengths are correct as I recall. Don't have a set of shafts to measure. Should be in one of the group buy threads.

I'm confused, my stock 300ZXT axles are probably not the correct size, thats why people suggest reversing the cages?  If I had the M2 axles for example then I definitly wouldn't reverse the cages.

 

I'll have a look in the group buy thread.

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EF Ian    10

Stock 300ZX axles are too long. Flipping cages gains you next to nothing. You need shorter axles. I think the Driveshaft Shop is the go to place at this point.

Thanks for confirming that. I'll definitly not flip the cages and will go with shorter axles, I think theres a place in the uk that can make me custom ones as long as I can give them the correct length,

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zgeezer    3

Getting the inner CV off; this can be accomplish in a few manors. Using a pipe, and placing the axle in the pipe, and slamming the CV assembly down into the pipe OR using a dead blow hammer. Using the dead blow hammer, took 4-8 hits to get the inner snap right to give. Mind you I am 145 lbs, so with me holding shaft and hammering, I think this method works great. When taking off the inner CV, be sure to hit the inner portion. Otherwise, the outer cage will shift, and you will never get the snap ring to give.

 

I beat up and destroyed a Pathfinder CV and axle using both of these methods.  Sometimes the inner CV simply will not come off.

 

Rebuilders use a special tool for this chore.  It is a heavy punch that is angled away from the shaft and has a foot designed to fit around both the inner and out race.  The design guarantees that the force of each hammer blow is delivered precisely to the inner race.   They work well, store easily in the tool box, and are, relatively speaking,  affordable,    I purchased mine from Rockford Driveline in Rockford, Illinois for a little over $50.00 shipped to me. Here's their website: http://rockforddriveline.com

 

This is called a cv inner race driver.  They have a number of heavy duty components.  Well worth looking at their catalogue.

 

Obligatory disclamer:  I have no relationship with this folks, other than dropping $ on them for their driver.

 

G

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mutantZ    10

I just took off the outer CV assembly but the cage retaining clip got bent in the process. Its the clip thats just inside the lip of the outer housing. Does anyone know where I can find a possible replacement. I looked on courtesy nissan, but it's hard to tell in the parts image if they are talking about the clip I need or the spring clip that is on the axle shaft itself. If anyone has any information it would be really appreciated.

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Hi I have axles being made right now.  They are a copy of Jon Mortensen axles.  They should be finished in 3-4 weeks price for the pair should be around $330-350 for the pair.  Thanks to Jon M. idea.  I'm slowly working on a complete axle kit from the diff to the wheel featuring all new parts ready to bolt in.   Thanks  Joe

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Hi I have made a run of 5 sets of the shortened axles.  The first set has been dropped shipped and he should see it Monday 2 December.  The rest will be in my hands on Wednesday. They are black zinc coated to prevent rusting and are made by the same shop that makes the stub axles and companion flanges.  The are $ 350.00 shipped in the US. 

 

Thanks  Joe

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Hi I have axles being made right now.  They are a copy of Jon Mortensen axles.  They should be finished in 3-4 weeks price for the pair should be around $330-350 for the pair.  Thanks to Jon M. idea.  I'm slowly working on a complete axle kit from the diff to the wheel featuring all new parts ready to bolt in.   Thanks  Joe

 

 

That is for a pair?

 

 

Sounds like it to me.   :2thumbs:

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Hi yes the price is for a pair. $350.00 delivered in the us via USPS flat rate box.  I have sold 3 sets with 2 still in stock and more on order.

 

  Z31 HALF SHAFTS Z 31 half shafts are designed to allow you to install the Z31 CV into your 1970-1978 Z car. They are made out of 4340, heat treated and black zinc coated.  They are the correct size so no need to flip your CV cages. Sold in pairs

1 set axles $ 350.00 shipped in the US.   $390 out of country

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John1jz    0

I have these shafts that were purchased a few years ago. On Sunday I broke the drivers side (RHD) inner shaft as I tried to start a burnout. I'm have broken 280zxt shafts before and had hoped these would be stronger. To clarify which one, it's the new one I was sent when other had reported breakages. Looks like I'll be putting the original unused one back on.

 

I am now considering an upgrade to those and looking for recommendations.

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JMortensen    235

The strongest set up you can get with the stock longnose R200 is Chequered Flag's 930 deal. Chromoly stubs for the diff, chromoly companion flanges, 930 CVs with chromoly races, and chromoly shafts. The limiting factor with that setup is the 1.25" diameter of the stub axle. 

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John1jz    0

That's what I've been looking at Jon and my friend has just fitted. I have those outer stubs so only need the axle kit with inner stub and companion flanges. Will those axles be stronger than the one I snapped though?

post-26912-0-68177100-1494303069_thumb.jpeg

post-26912-0-96941500-1494303094_thumb.jpeg

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NewZed    56
Posted (edited)

Joe's "930 deal" doesn't show on either of his links.  The internet is boon and bane, you have to learn how to use it.

 

Interesting break point for j1jz, right in the middle of the splines.  The stress riser must have been the edge of the CV female spline.  I've wondered before why people don't massage their axles like they do their connecting rods.  Get rid of sharp edges, shot peen. polish, all of that.  It's all about stress distribution.

 

 

Edit - I found the page.  Bu t it doesn't really answer the questions.  Internet ........

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html

Edited by NewZed

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NewZed    56

Did you snap that on the differential end or the wheel end?

You can see the circlip slot, so it's the differential side.  Looks like a stock 4 hole 300ZX turbo axle.

 

The only difference to Joe's kit then is "chromoly" (whatever that might actually mean) over whatever material and heat treatment Nissan used.  Never seen any actual evidence that the chromoly is actually stronger.  Nissan's part might be "chromoly".

 

Too bad he can't just get the CV axle end in chromoly since that's the broken part.  If chromoly is actually better.

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NewZed    56

Chromoly is 4130 alloy steel. It's pretty commonly used for lots of things that require light weight and high strength.

What are the Nisan axles made from?

 

And "chromoly" is a vague term that covers a range of steel formulations.  If it's 4130, just call it 4130. And without the heat history, the final properties can't be known.  A couple of Hybridz members have had heat treatment issues in the past.  

 

Just saying, know what you're actually working with, if you can.

 

https://www.onlinemetals.com/productguides/alloysteelguide.cfm

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JMortensen    235

I believe Joe's stuff is 4340, double heat treated. That's what it was going to be when I was trying to get the supplier to finish it for a year. Finally gave up. Joe is actually able to get the guy to move.

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JMortensen    235
Posted (edited)

I think my axles were 4130 and similar heat treat. What is probably the important factor is the axle diameter and spline count on the Z31 CV vs the Porsche 930 CV. I can't recall specs on those, you'd have to dig a bit for them.

EDIT--Snapped axle looks like one of the batch that I had to have heat treated again because they came out of the machinist not hard enough. They were induction hardened on the ends to a pretty high number. Want to say it was mid 50s on the Rockwell C scale.

Edited by JMortensen

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NewZed    56

So it is the CV axle?  Sorry Rebekahz I was wrong there.  I didn't look far enough down the picture.  So, maybe he just needs a new axle.

 

I haven't really added to the potential solution discussion.

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John1jz    0

just to be clear. When the kit was bought (chromoly axles, companion flanges and stub axles) from chequered flag/modern Motorsport, there were some issues with one of the shafts so everyone was sent 1 additional axle to replace one that was originally supplied. This replacement axle is the one that broke. As I want to run the car this weekend I have put the originallly supplied axle back on as the cv doesn't appear to be damaged.

 

I feel it may be an issue with the axle but I'm just trying to run something I can trust. I looked at my friends 930 kit and the splines are larger plus the cv in modern and also larger. I also like the diff end stub. I have messaged joe for a price of the 930 kit minus the wheel side stub axles that I already have. Depending on price, this may be the was forward.

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