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Coyote Motor in 240Z thoughts.


Ryan Merrill

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The 5.0L Coyote should fit between the shock towers, with a little room left. Just for grins, I dropped my 429 SCJ, down in my engine bay to see how it would fit it had about 4 inches on each side. I'm working on my electrical stuff now on my 1977 Fordsun Boss 630Z . My power windows, locks, and mirrors with a 2000 Mustang wiring harness and parts.The windows and locks work great.

351W Stroker with standard bore.

And hello; Rudypoochris. Long time no see.

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That's awesome. We would need a FRPP stand alone for the DI also since very few standalones support that.

 

I don't think this is the platform for it since the power would be too much, but a 5.0L DI with E85 and twin turbos would be... well into the 1,000 hp range on over 10:1 CR.

 

 

Well over that I think. Stock motor with injectors and BAP are making over 600 to the wheels at 10 psi.

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Well Rudy, mine went on hold for awhile. But I'm about to get back at it. Health problems was the cause. I'm using my spare 3.85 stroke crank in my 351W and will give me 387 ci or 6.3L. Boss 302 pistons, and heads, with the Aussy 302C rods and Edelbrock intake port matched. The dyno program shows just under 600hp at the flywheel. Thats why I called it a Boss 630Z. It aught to be fun to drive. I've modified everything except the exterior of the car, with the exception of the fuel door. Its on the drivers side now, because of the 23 gallon 89 Bronco 2 gas tank. I have Long Tube Headers with the Flow Master 2 1/2" dual exhaust kit installed with a removable H-pipe. My frame rails had rotted out, so I cut the and welded in 1 1/2" x 3" rectangular tubing for the frame rails, and gained close to 3" between the rails.

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I have a decently upgraded carb'd 302 (306 technically) in my Z... it pulls great, sounds great, etc. But I'd kill for a Coyote motor under the hood. Might be doable in a few more years when the engines come down in price. As it stands, nobody is getting their paws on the engine, trans and electronics without $10k... and at that level, you can build a lot better. 

Edited by thedarkie
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Flat plane? That'd be new... they got a way to go on the specific output to hit that power.

 

Depends. If you look at the torque levels they're hitting for the displacement, they're beating most any production engine, even the coveted 120hp/liter F20C. The big difference of course is the redline, but dyno's show that the Coyote is making plenty of power till redline. All points to the fact that more RPM and some more aggressive cams should do quite well, and that's not even going into port modifications.

 

But you're right, that's a BIG jump. But I don't think it's unreasonable to get 111hp per liter.

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  • 3 months later...

Please tell me someone is in the works of putting the coyote in a z. When I was younger a 351 was my dream in a 72 240 I had prior to the army. 12 years a wife and three kids and a 75 280 later I really want some input as far as a how to. For me it's the gas mileage vs hp. Would I love 400hp at the wheels with 28mpg highway of course but if you haven't driven the new boss or heard the quad exhaust note I suggest you do.

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Please tell me someone is in the works of putting the coyote in a z. When I was younger a 351 was my dream in a 72 240 I had prior to the army. 12 years a wife and three kids and a 75 280 later I really want some input as far as a how to. For me it's the gas mileage vs hp. Would I love 400hp at the wheels with 28mpg highway of course but if you haven't driven the new boss or heard the quad exhaust note I suggest you do.

 

I try to stay on top of what people are doing, and I haven't heard ANYTHING on fitting the coyote. It WILL fit though. Will there be challenges? Of course. I wouldn't consider it if you didn't have at least mild fabrication skills.

 

Main issue that will come up is exhaust fitment, and there's several options you could look into to make it work. Even if the heads are "too wide" at any point, you can widen the shock towers enough to clear I'm sure. Also, if you're going to shave the firewall brackets to move the engine back as far as possible, things like the heater hoses become difficult to work around, but not impossible. The further you get the engine back though, the easier routing exhaust should become.

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  • 10 months later...

I am seriously considering going this route over the LS. That is saying a lot, I KNOW the LS and have done swaps on them before. I have a 6.2L I am stroking now in my JK, 4" to a 6.8L and had planned a similar non-VVT engine for the 240Z. The 4 valve Coyote or much, much more ideally the Voodoo seem to really have what I want in the Z. That is a high revving (over 8K on the Voodoo!) powerful lightweight engine and in the Voodoo's case, that sublime, exotic sound! My Z has a balance, blueprinted short stroke 2.6L (280 bore, 240 stroke), cammed tri Weber setup now. I want lots more power but the high revving engine and sound are great. I hate to lose that. Also, with the LS, many are saying that the low end at slower speeds is simply too much when you get up in the power levels. This seems like the perfect balance. A true sports car engine that loves to wind up. And with the VVT and 4 valve heads, you can have the smooth bottom end and still keep the high power levels.

 

So, after reviewing the dimensions I appears with the Coyote, that it is tight but doable on the width. I'll likely have to make headers but will probably want to do that anyway. I may be able to modify some shorties for now and do long tubes later. The alternator and A/C might cause issues, hard to tell on that.

 

With the Voodoo, time will tell. They do plan to offer it as a crate. It may be a while before that is available. Hopefully the Voodoo will keep a standard Modular bellhousing pattern. Don't know if I would trust the 3160 and should have a T56 Magnum in a week or so anyway. They are rated to handle the RPM for shifting.

 

Anyone have any more current info on the Voodoo or more knowledge/suggestions on the Coyote? Any threads I am missing? I think I am in for this route. Will they cruise at say 1500RPM at 60MPH? My LS does that pushing a 5500lb. rig on 37" mud tires quite nicely. Really helps with comfort and mileage. But, stand on it and drop two gears and the fun starts! A 2300-2500lb. Z should be easy to push along by comparison.

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  • 1 year later...

I've been comparing 3D models of both the LS3 and the Coyote. From my initial analysis I am finding that the oil pan is too deep 6.8" deep from the rails or 9.95" from the crank center line. A shorter oil pan and pickup will be necessary. The overall width will fit between the strut towers. Factory exhaust manifolds likely wont work.Looks like the alternator will be a tight fit as its close to the frame rail. I need to do more modeling of the S30 engine bay to go further with this. The overall length is nearly identical to the LS3 with the Coyote has an advantage where the LS3 water pump protrudes.

 

Shorter oil pan options:

Moroso 20570  Depth: 4.5"

Champ CP4700  Depth: 4.5"

Canton 15-736  Depth: 5.0"

 

2zohkrs.jpg

 

24v5o4w.jpg

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Yeah, grabcad is cool when the models are accurate. Props to getting the Coyote interest rolling again.  They're getting more and more plentiful and more and more affordable as 5.0 trucks / vans start hitting the wrecking yards.  What program are you using?  I found an online free program called 'OnShape' that's been serving me well for my 4.6DOHC manifold concept work.

 

One thing to remember on 'overall width' measurements is often the wide part is located somewhere you don't care about.  Ie, when I switched from the SOHC to the DOHC 4.6, I have almost the same shock tower clearances, as the wide part (cam chain centerline) was in front of the shock towers by a few inches. Widths found online show ~26 for the SOHC and ~29 for the DOHC, and I had NO problem fitting the engine in the chassis.  Well...no sheetmetal work was required anyways to get things to fit, besides removing the old crossmember mounted engine mount. 

Edited by yellowoctupus
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