disepyon Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Made the rear section of the support/tie in plate for the rocker panel. Worked on making a replacement sheet metal section for the seat belt mechanism. Need to work on it a little more, but good for the most part. I needed to know the shape of the rocker panel where the replacement section meets up to it, so I temporarily clamped the inner rocker panel on. It isnt trimmed for a final fitment yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 I'm in awe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Major talent .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 (edited) Small update, not much accomplished. cut some more rust out on the front side of the floor. As I thought, the front frame isnt any good. Looks like ill have to make new frame rails. Thought about buying them but after seeing how poorly fitted the Bad Dog floor rails fit, I am assuming the same for the front engine bay frame rails by whoever its made by. Got the support plates welded in. So I made these out of 18g cold rolled steel when the factory thickness is 22g. Oh well, as long as my welds penetrated, which they did. Inner and Outer rocker panels fitted in place and trimmed. Still need to add the seat belt hole and nut on the inner rocker panel and get these suckers coated before welding. But before i do that, I need to do small repairs in various areas, however I need 22g metal. Will buy some tomorrow. Tomorrow I will be buying some metal to support the front of the car for working on the frame, sheet metal to make the frame rail, doing small repairs and floor pans. Decided to make my own floor pans. Edited August 22, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Some pictures of miscellaneous repairs. Bunch of sheet metal (16g, 18g, 20g, all CRS) and square tubing to brace the front of the car for when its time to work on the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetsaz Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Looks about what my repair looked like on the outer rockers. Wish I'd had your pictures this past summer, would have saved me a lot of trouble haha! Some great work here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Looks about what my repair looked like on the outer rockers. Wish I'd had your pictures this past summer, would have saved me a lot of trouble haha! Some great work here. Yeah pictures definitely helped me along the way from browsing around the interweb, although I have a couple of restore datsun books I never used nor looked at. Now that I think about it, I may just go grab them and browse through them, might provide some helpful stuff. More pictures of miscellaneous repairs. Should be it for the rocker panel area. I left extra material for the outer wheel well section on purpose just in case I need to weld more material or reshape it in the future for when its time to work on the rear quarter panel. Not too worried nor trying to be a perfectionist in smoothing out the welds. wont be seeing this part of the car and will be coated in a black color. Also I dont have a tool with a precise and fine enough edge to grind in some areas either. So the Tabco outer rocker panel had a crack in it, guess is it formed due to that area being too thin and stressed out since these are pressed when made I am also guessing. Just glad I caught that and fixed it. Best I could do in getting the welds to smooth out. I may go back over it with my tig torch to even out the weld but I really dont care, thats what body filler is for, to fine tune it. Picture of the simple 1/8" thick plate with a nut welded for the seat belt. Sprayed some Bloxide aluminized weldable primer before I weld it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPhotographer06 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 In awe at this project...makes me feel that i'm doing mine way wrong lol Nice Job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) In awe at this project... makes me feel that i'm doing mine way wrong lol Nice Job! Thanks, I'm sure there are a lot of things not correct with mine if you were to ask a professional. This is all new to me which is why my progress is so slow for the rust repair. POR15 and rust preventive coating/weldable primer put on. Hate the spray can when spraying the primer on, should had bought by the gallon and brush it on, would be a lot cleaner. Finally all welded up, feels super stiff. I wanted to see how bad the front frame was in the area that was compromised by rust. I cut out the rusted sheet metal that is part of the drive side engine bay. You can kind of see it in this picture. Edited February 28, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Made the roller frame today. Just kind of made it as I worked on it. I may or may not add in supports directly to the engine bay strut towers. It is pretty stout the way it is. Didnt want anything inside the engine bay/around the frame since that will be the area of focus. Just wish I did this before working on the car, so much room when it sets high like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Consider keeping the auto transmission and installing a steering wheel paddle shifter kit. I haven't seen anyone do that before. You'll be better off for drag racing, it will be easier on your drivetrain (axles and diff) and you will be doing something totally unique to this forum. You'd have lots of hits on your project because lots of folks will want to see how it goes for you. You really need to go back to your donor car and try to get the wiring harness, computer, data port, radiator fans, fuel tank and fuel pumps, and as much wiring as possible. I'm doing that as we speak. Bought a big turbo, sold the T-56, picked up a 4L80e. I have not ordered the paddle shifter or controller yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Serious fantastic work right there. I would proud of the small patched I had to make in my car but I cannot compare to you skills. Wish I had the know how and skill to make a few of those panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) Serious fantastic work right there. I would proud of the small patched I had to make in my car but I cannot compare to you skills. Wish I had the know how and skill to make a few of those panels. Thanks, sheet metal work is new to me, but welding is something I have known for a while, believe me I still have a lot to learn. Drive side engine bay frame and floor pan frame off. Had to take off the bottom portion of the radiator support because the front of the frame curves outward. Just realized how much I hate removing spot welds. A picture of the passenger side frame looking inside. Looks to be in worse shape than the driver side. I am actually looking forward to making this, looks pretty simple to make...hopefully Edited March 1, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 So the Tabco outer rocker panel had a crack in it, guess is it formed due to that area being too thin and stressed out since these are pressed when made I am also guessing. Just glad I caught that and fixed it. Best I could do in getting the welds to smooth out. I may go back over it with my tig torch to even out the weld but I really dont care, thats what body filler is for, to fine tune it. Glad I saw this. I just checked my Tabco replacement rocker, and it has the same defect. Might be worth contacting them about if it's a common issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Glad I saw this. I just checked my Tabco replacement rocker, and it has the same defect. Might be worth contacting them about if it's a common issue. Yeah I would think some one would had noticed besides you and me. I may contact them about it. My work is going to keep me busy for awhile which means ill be spending less time on this project. Hopefully I will have the energy to nibble at this a little each day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 (edited) Small update, not much accomplished. Started on the driver side Front frame rail today. This was made out of CRS 16g sheet metal. Still needs some work but thats what it will pretty much look like. Will be adding in a stiffening/support plate that will run along the whole length of the frame rail. partially kind of put on the car to see what it will look like, seems like it will fit good. Friend called me over to his place to discuss getting some stuff fabricated on a couple of his cars. Every time I go to his house, he has a new toy to add to his collection. Its like attending a car show at his house. He has more cars at his airplane hanger. Another friend was there as well and wants to get some stuff fabricated for his BMW 135i. Anyone know what bolts on top of the driver side frame rail at the front? There are a couple of holes there with nuts welded on the back side. I cant remember what goes there. I know the tow hook bolts to the bottom, but unsure what goes on top. Edited March 27, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Worked on the frame a little more today. Had to notch the front part of it so the radiator can fit. I notched it out just a little bit more than stock to allow more clearance. Also filled it that triangular hole on the bottom side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Really enjoying this build thread, the skills some people have on here is fantastic including yours. Quick question, that wouldn't be a radiator out of a late model Stang would it? Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 Really enjoying this build thread, the skills some people have on here is fantastic including yours. Quick question, that wouldn't be a radiator out of a late model Stang would it? Cheers John Thanks, The radiator is supposed to be for a 1970 Pontiac Firebird-Trans. Bought it back in 2014 for $365 shipped from PWR with the manufacturing date of 2011. Since it didnt come with any brackets welded on, it will allow me to create my own to fit the Z, which is what I wanted. I think PWR does that on purpose since they know everyone whom buys these will fit slightly different for their setups. If i remember, most of the rads they sell dont come with brackets. I bought this exact radiator due to the dimensions so it would fit in between the frame rails and not hang down so low. Now that I am doing all this fab work on the body/frame, kind of wish I had gotten a wider radiator, oh well though, still plenty of rad for my setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Thanks for the heads up I have a similar problem due to the chassis I'm fabricating and installing and had to look for an alternative that will match inlet and return pipes of the AMG V6 and fit inside the new restricted area. Mine will have to sit above the rails but can take up the full width inside the support area so I'm going with a Mishimoto 3 core radiator designed for a 1979-1983 5.0L Mustang Overall Size: 27.5" x 18" x 2.55" Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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