Silver Mine Motors Rear Disk Conversion Kit Write Up

[makaofox]

This is a write up I made, I was given permission by edan to post this.

 

Silver Mine Motors Rear Conversion Kit

 

This kit includes everything you will need to install into your z. Some situations might need some modification that will be on, YOU, the owner.

 

Edan is the owner of Silver Mine Motors, which produces fabulous products for the s30 chassis as well as other models. He mostly sells brake products but also sells some suspension components. His products are cheapest and he does his best to keep it that way. If you happen to find a brake kit cheaper, send him the link and he will match it! Edan has amazing customer service and responds to his emails/calls quickly. Check out his website to order your kit!

 

http://www.silverminemotors.com/main.sc

 

 

Facts about this kit:

 

-You should really upgrade to a 15/16 master cylinder OR the more available 1inch master cylinder. This is important if you already upgraded your front brakes. You should also consider a proportioning valve.

 

-My 15inch panasport wheels (15x6) WILL NOT FIT. The minimum is a 15inch wheel HOWEVER it will depend on the WIDTH and OFFSET of the wheel. In consideration is also the design of the wheel. Some spoke design might be to concave, and hit against the caliper. Too much of an inward design will hit the caliper, be sure to test fit the wheels.

 

-First things first, I have a 76 280z so other years might differ slightly.

 

Tools you will need:

 

19mm: wrench.

 

17mm: wrench.

 

14mm: wrench.

 

10mm: wrench.

 

Sawzall: cut backing plate.

 

Screw driver.

 

Cotter pins: Have a couple. They don’t need to be large, medium or smaller ones work fine.

 

Rubber mallet or 5lb mallet: Optional to beat out your drums.

 

PB Blaster: This is your friend use this A LOT.

 

Needle nose plier.

 

Getting started:

 

1-First off, more than likely your drums are stuck onto your car. So use the mallet to beat the drum off the stub axel. If it breaks off (the drum) it is ok, the parts are not going to be used any more.

 

2-Once the drum is off, you will be looking at the brake shoes and springs, as well as the cylinder holding the parking brake cable.

 

3-Behind the backing plate are the hard lines for the parking brake. These are no longer needed and must be removed. The only line needed is the hardline from the main braking system. Be careful removing the parking brake hard lines, and then remove the parking brake cable, save the bolt that holds it in place. Push the cable aside, as it will be needed later on.

 

4-With the screw driver or needle nose, remove the springs carefully of the brake shoes and it will come off.

 

5-Once the brake shoes are off you will be able to see 4 bolts that are holding the backing plate in place. Remove those carefully. They are not in the best position, so they will be prone to stripping if you aren’t careful.

 

6-Once the backing plate is loose it is now ready to cut. If it isn’t loose, hit it a few times with the mallet until it is loose.

 

7-Once loosed, CAREFULLY use the sawzall to cut the backing plate in two sections. It is best to cut in a “V†shape on both sides and bend the plate repeatedly to snap off. If done carefully, you should hit nothing and it should come off fairly easily. Again be CAREFUL not to hit the stub axel or the parking brake cable, or even your brake line hose.

 

8-After the backing plate is removed, you should have all the pieces of the old braking system in a pile and ready for the new kit to go in.

 

9-The kit is very easy to install, I recommend ordering the stainless steel brake lines.

 

10-The mounting bracket should have the “silver mine†logo facing toward the differential and should be mounted opposite of your strut assembly. Use the 3 bolts with lock washers and bolt it in place with the 17mm wrench.

 

11-With the bracket in place, put the rotor on and use the lug nuts to hold it in place.

 

12-Put the caliper in place with the pads in it already and use the 2 bolts to bolt in the caliper, 19mm wrench. If you have the stainless steel line, screw that into the caliper before you bolt it in the bracket. Then screw it into the hardline.

 

13-Now the parking cable is ready to be installed. The cable is held on a bracket to avoid rubbing against the driveshaft. If necessary, remove the bracket to obtain proper length and install the parking brake cable, using the previous bolt to hold it in with a cotter pin.

 

-With all that done, you are ready to drive! Go to an open area with no traffic to test it out.

 

Special thanks to Edan at Silver Mine Motors for providing a great kit and pictures. Also a special thanks to David Palermo for providing great pictures.

 

Pictures now:

[twofouroh]

Looks nice but there's no way I'm putting Ford brakes on my Z. The parts store already thinks my car is about 8 different Nissans, we don't need a Ford in the mix. Not to mention my brother the Bronco nut finding out about it . . . . Why didn't they use a Nissan caliper I wonder?

 

P.S.: Nice coilovers. What brand?

Edited December 29, 2011 by twofouroh

[1 tuff z]

Thanks for the props on pics, much appreciated-sorry they weren't cleaner. I do like the ford calipers; inexpensive, effective, extremely wide variety of pad options AND, if something breaks I can go to the dealer or any parts store and find what i need in stock!

[makaofox]

^ Thats exactly why I like this kit lol. I have coils but im sure you meant davids, and those seem to be the arizona z coils? Still need to drop in the motor (which is being rebuilt to stock spec) and install the gas tank before I can test out these brakes.

[1 tuff z]

My coilovers are from ground control, eibach springs.

[luseboy]

Great write-up, thank you for doing this! Could you measure the radius from the center of the hub to the farthest point out on the caliper, so we can measure our wheels and have an idea of if it will fit or not? I didn't realize how big the rotor, caliper, and bracket are!

[HaaJeHaa]

Luseboy: You need a minimum of 16" wheels to fit this kit;) My 16x9,5 CCW classic barely clears this kit, the Rota RBR 17x9,5 clears it just fine.

Edited December 30, 2011 by HaaJeHaa

[makaofox]

^ I will measure it when I can today. I know a 15in can fit but the offset will be custom and again it falls back on the design of the wheel. I wanted to go 16in regardless but if 16x9.5 ccw's gave you trouble im not sure lol.

[SleeperZ]

I'm interested in that measurement as well. No way am I going to 16" wheels anytime soon, too much in my 15" wheels and tires.

[HaaJeHaa]

It's close to no clearance with the 16" ccw's. I guess it's up to how the inner barrel is designed. I've got a set of 16x9 -13 Watanabe and they seem to have better clearance than the CCW's. I guess casted 1 piece wheels have larger inner diameter than 3 piece...?

 

My measurement is 173mm from hub center to top of caliper.

 

That makes the total diameter 346mm and that equals to 13,63". If your inner barrels right behind the center (where the calipers will go) on the 15" is larger than that this kit would fit.

Edited December 30, 2011 by HaaJeHaa

[luseboy]

It's close to no clearance with the 16" ccw's. I guess it's up to how the inner barrel is designed. I've got a set of 16x9 -13 Watanabe and they seem to have better clearance than the CCW's. I guess casted 1 piece wheels have larger inner diameter than 3 piece...?

 

My measurement is 173mm from hub center to top of caliper.

 

That makes the total diameter 346mm and that equals to 13,63". If your inner barrels right behind the center (where the calipers will go) on the 15" is larger than that this kit would fit.

 

The wheels I'm going for are 1 piece and would likely fit. I'm looking to see if someone can get me an inner radius measurement. That seems like enough clearance for most 15" 1 piece wheels. Is there anywhere that material could be safely shaved off from the caliper if clearance is an issue? And has anyone driven their car with this kit yet? I'm still pretty darn interested in this kit, seeing as how it seems to be the only one with enough bite when using the 4 piston front brakes. Plus having vented rotors front and rear really makes for a nice cool brake set up. So has anyone figured out what exact years/models the caliper is off of? And how about the rotor?

[AleksS30]

Nice write up! I have purchased a few items from Edan aswell, he's a great guy to deal with!

 

Is there anyone else other than modern motorsports that make brackets for the S13 calipers?

[luseboy]

Well I just realized that mustang forums would be the place to go for info on fitting 15" wheels. Looks like you can get them to fit with a little shaving of the caliper and/or spacers. Emailed Edan about his kit, and he gave me a very lengthly, thoughtful, and honest reply. He said that the use of a 1/4 in. spacer has proved to make the kit work on most 15" wheels. Well the wheels I want aren't enough of an aggressive offset for ZG flares anyways so I should be able to put in a 15mm spacer on each wheel and make 'em fit. It'll be a few months before I get to the stage of acctually doing brake stuff but I will let you all know what happens.

 

I'll post pics of my brakes installed too, so people can see some more about this kit, which I believe to be the best kit for our Z's.

-Austin

[makaofox]

Mustang forums would be too broad, you would have to search alot lol. I also asked edan, I plan on buy a 27mm spacer with studs on ebay being that I want my wheels with 0+ offset, which will give me a negative offset= zg flares. Im currently working with a wheel shop locally that should help me out. 15mm should be fine depending on your offset, on my 15x7 0+ it looked like 15mm would be just shy of clearing the caliper. I will shave the calipers if I have to too make them fit. Im going for XXR 002 15x9 0+ on all for corners with either 205/50/15 or 225/50/15 all around.

 

One thing I didnt ask edan and I didnt get around to it but was brought up by david and other forums is the fact that the bleeder points are pointing downward instead of upward. I havent put fluid in the system as im waiting for my 1in wilwood mc but im not too sure how this will turn out. If anything I will put up an update on how to set them up properly facing upward.

[luseboy]

Well based on what I saw on there, you can get away with 15's so long as they don't hit the back of the spoke design. I was thinking the problem was the top of the caliper hitting the inside of the wheel, but I know understand that the real problem is the front of the caliper. Well the wheels I'm getting are 15x8 et -5 rota aleica's so I figure a -20 offset should fit the rear zg flare well. I've got a bunch of 5mm spacers I can test fit with to figure out how much spacer I need, I'm sure it will work out.

I'm Planning to use the wilwood MC as well. I'm a little confused by what you're saying... Did you install the calipers wrong or are you just saying you'll take them off and turn them the other way around during bleeding? It should be fine, I mean it works on mustangs...

[makaofox]

Oh you lucky bastard lol. I love the rota aleica's! If I was you I would have went 25mm offset to make it an even -30. When I measured them it looked like a 27mm would be nice with a 0+ offset wheel, then again im not totally sure. I ordered my 30mm spacer today, so I will find out by next week.

 

Wait lets get this straight, the bleeder points DOWN, I installed it correctly. I called edan and he says even on his z which he tracks, He removes his caliper turns it upside down, puts it on the rotor and bleeds it and it functions well. My question was to him if it was possible to have the bleeder to point upwards and retain the parking brake bracket but he said he could not make that happen with out it being expensive. So Looks like im going to have to use his methods of bleeding, however on a track day one must be prepared to do such a method.

[SleeperZ]

If the bleeder doesn't point up, you will never purge the air out.

[luseboy]

Oh you lucky bastard lol. I love the rota aleica's! If I was you I would have went 25mm offset to make it an even -30. When I measured them it looked like a 27mm would be nice with a 0+ offset wheel, then again im not totally sure. I ordered my 30mm spacer today, so I will find out by next week.

 

Wait lets get this straight, the bleeder points DOWN, I installed it correctly. I called edan and he says even on his z which he tracks, He removes his caliper turns it upside down, puts it on the rotor and bleeds it and it functions well. My question was to him if it was possible to have the bleeder to point upwards and retain the parking brake bracket but he said he could not make that happen with out it being expensive. So Looks like im going to have to use his methods of bleeding, however on a track day one must be prepared to do such a method.

 

Haha ya I love the aleica's! Well I could get them with that offset but it seems like zg flares fit best with et -20 or so but it still needs a spacer in the rear for the brakes, so that the spokes themselves are farther away from the caliper, so if I get -5 and put 15mm spacers on each wheel I should get what I'm looking for, I hope. Oh I see what your saying now. Seems like a good remedy to the problem of the air bleeder. I mean how often do you really need to bleed brakes anyways? I guess if you track a lot and frequently boil the fluid it could be pretty often... But even then it seems like it doesn't need to happen all that often?

 

One other thing I've been wondering about, is do you need to use a special tool to push the piston back in? The rear brakes on my mini are a similar design, and the caliper needs to be spun and compressed at the same time. Same thing here I assume?

[1 tuff z]

Couple things. Yes, correctly installed as Edan designed the kit bleeders will point down. It was not too difficult to bleed them, as Edan stated.

 

For the pistons, as with the 240sx calipers I'd recommend you visit your local parts store and purchase a tool to do this with. The one I have is square and has pins on all sides for various applications and a 3/8" drive-makes piston retracting simple, quick and much easier than the way I was doing it [don't ask...].

[makaofox]

^^ Yea I am going with xxr 002 in red, it will be lound but down the line im going to powder coat them. I cant do 7 or 8 I needed wider lol. If I could I would have done 10!

^ David did some digging and found a wonderful mustang site that states a how to.

 

 

My Silvermine motors rear calipers: Mustang 05-10 calipers. DO AT EVERY BRAKE PAD CHANGE.

 

Here it is: http://www.stangmafia.com/forum/f59/replacing-rear-brake-pads-6541/

 

Here is how I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2007 GT500.

 

Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install:

 

1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed

2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard

3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive

4. Brake caliper tool

 

 

Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff).

 

I also released the parking brake prior to starting.

 

Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point.

 

I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads.

 

 

Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface.

 

 

You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching.

 

Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper.

 

 

The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below).

 

 

 

 

Remove the old brake pads and spring clips.

 

 

Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. See notes below on the application of caliper grease.

 

 

There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here.

 

 

Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order:

 

* RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt

* LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt

 

Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled.

 

 

I didn't apply any caliper grease at the time, but I intend to go back and apply some synthetic caliper grease to the areas of the pads (back surface only) that come into contact with the caliper and piston.

 

Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear.